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This trip had a first for each of us. MY first class 4-5 rock climb on a peak. It was Spotly’s first lead on summit rock on a peak, Ab’s first real glissade and first time using her crampons. After ideas/plans to climb Unicorn peak with another climber fell through on Thursday morning. I had resigned to the fact that till I find someone who leads rock I would not be climbing Unicorn. I have only climbed top rope at crags, never on a peak that needed a lead. So my plans altered. Then I get a PM from Spotly looking for beta on Climbing Unicorn and that he was thinking of going solo. Well now if that didn’t just fall into my lap! After some planning Unicorn was on! 
AB and I planned on doing some climbing around in the Tatoosh range on Sat. I figured it would be a great place for her to strengthen her climbing skills. One thing stopped us from that plan. AB locked her keys in her rig with all of her gear at Longmire  . After dealing with her keys in the truck we got a late noon time start up the snow lake trail. We set up camp and had a relaxing time in the shade for a bit. We climbed up the steep chute and had dinner up higher with great views. AB finally got to use her crampons.
 
She did really well up and down the chute and decided she was going to climb up with us as far as she could on Sunday. We woke up Sunday morning and started up the gully to meet up with Spotly. An inversion through the night and kept the snow pretty soft but not soft enough to not use crampons. The chute is about 30 degrees right now and in fine shape. We met up with Spotly at the top of the chute. Headed up towards the saddle.    
The pitch on the final climb to the saddle became very steep. AB had a moment of “I am freaked” but worked through it and plowed her way up. Once reaching the saddle there is a great view looking towards Adams. AB stopped here because the next step was to gain the ridge.   
To gain the ridge one must climb and traverse class3-4 rock. The exposure was high. A big DEEP moat directly below me didn’t make it feel any more comfortable. Spotly took the lead heading strait up the class four section. Then I started to follow his route and saw a nice class three spot. It was a little sketch but fun all at the same time. From the ridge we climbed a snow field on the east side. Then we climbed over the ridge and climbed another snowfield on the west side. This snow field had some exposure but not too steep. We dropped down onto the east side of the ridge again onto an exposed snow traverse. Spotly’s favorite part of the trip...NOT! This took us strait to the summit block.  
There are several routes up the summit block we chose the easiest route. It is a class3/4 section then traverse over to a class 5 crux and then up some more class 4 to the top. After Spolty climbed up and placed a couple of pieces of pro in it was my turn. I was a little nervous for the first time as soon as he said climb on. It has been a long time since I have been roped up on class 5 rock. I climbed up the class four then scooted over to the class five section. Right in the middle of the class five Spotly put in a bomb proof piece. I could not get it out. I tried and tried but it was in there really good. We decided to leave it and he would rap down and use his cleaning tool to get it out. It was over so fast I wanted to do it again and again. What a blast! I had forgotten how much I love to climb rock.    
After a few minutes on top we set up for the rappel. There was a group of 8 or 10 that where a part of a class that had started there way up the same route. Spotly asked the lead if he could grab his pro. I rappelled down the 5.6 roof pitch and Spotly stayed up there for his pro. The rappel was so fun! It took me a while to loosen up till a guy down below reminded me to trust the rope and let it do the work. Things you forget in time. Spotly meanwhile is still waiting for his pro. I felt bad but felt better when the first guy tried but could not get it either. The next guy had a tool and was able to get it out. Then it was Spotly’s turn to rap down.  
Yahoo we did it! I think we worked pretty well as a team of first timers. Spotly you are a great lead! I was comfortable with climbing with him and to me that is important. Then it was time to head back to Denise waiting at the saddle. Once we got back to that nasty rock traverse I found an anchor to rap from. I wanted to rap down it. Spotly looked at the anchor and decided to add a backup and rap ring. Rappelling down that was a blast!!! We rappelled down to the moat and climb out of it using a big chuck of snow that was stuck down in it. Then finish the rap down the snow finger to the saddle. So much better than down climbing it!  
From the saddle we had to drop down that steep slope. AB was still a bit freaked but took it slow and made it down. Then Spotly took off. He had a long drive back to Spokane. We started down into the bowl. Glissading is the best way to get all the way down. AB started her glissade and I plunge stepped for a bit then glissaded myself. Then it was time for the chute. I figured it would have softened up a bit more since the morning so I decided we could do it without crampons. I was wrong It was still a bit firm for just boot IMO. So this is when I was stuck. It was too steep to be taking my pack off to put on my crampons. I was freaked out about Glissading it. I have this Huge fear of Glissading steep snow now since I had a very bad accident on a sled hitting several trees and rock at 30+MPH and ended up in the ER. I still have injuries from it. I don’t like steep snow and the thought of sliding on it was freaking me out. AB is the one who talked me into the glissade. I told her if she did it first then I would  She did it! Now I had too...me and my mouth  . We both did a slow glissade through the chute and then gained speed as the pitch let up a bit. This was a huge step for me because I have been scared of Glissading since the accident and avoid it like the plague. I need to do it again and again to get over this stupid fear. Thanks AB for the encouragement. We went back to camp, packed up and headed back to the cars.
I had tried this peak before about 5 years ago with Mania and it was in August. We got turned around at the saddle due to a huge moat and poor access (scary loose class 4 rock) to the ridge. This time of year is the best for this climb! All of the nasty scree and talus is covered in snow. We were on snow 95% of the time. The Glissade is great from the saddle at the top all the way down to Snow lake. The summit block is quite solid and has some great routes on it. What a great climb and weekend it was for me. Thanks again Spotly for your great lead, company and images for the tr. AB you did great! Each time, you go father and get better! I now have been reminded how much I LOVE to rock climb. I had forgotten just how much I love it. WHAT A GREAT CLIMB!!!! Patchy snow starts quickly after the trail head and is solid and continuous right around 4500' and up.  Posted By: tazz In: Unicorn peak 6971' Tatoosh MRNP |