[Tom]

It was a little over 10 years ago that I hiked to Lake Leland. Lake Leland holds the distinction of being not only the longest hike I've ever done, but also the most unfulfilling. The trail was flat and boring and the camps at the lake bore the scars of far too many a horseman. I'd always regretted not hanging a right along the way and heading up to Square Lake where horses could not go. This weekend I decided it was time to take care of unfinished business. Not wanting to re-live the long dreary hike from Icicle Creek I decided on an alternate route to Square Lake. It appeared a cross country route via Deception Lakes was possible and would be a much shorter hike to the extent one could drive the logging road to the deception creek trail "cutoff" on Tonga Ridge. My old 100 Hikes book however indicated "this obnoxious shortcut entry ... is now in the process of gradual obliteration ... the last 3 miles are negotiable only by truck ... and eventually will be closed to all wheels." Worst case I figured I'd have to hike the last 3 miles of the road or start from the Mt Sawyer / Fisher Lake trailhead. As I drove the logging road on Tonga Ridge I was amazed to find it in superb condition. If not for the dust cloud behind me I could have been convinced I was driving on pavement. This was one of the finest logging roads I've ever driven on. For a while I thought I must be on the wrong road what with all the mumbo jumbo in the 100 Hikes book - so much for "gradual obliteration" and "negotiable only by truck" . I didn't even notice how long of a ride it was thanks to the many fantastic views along the way, culminating with glimpses of Cathedral Rock and the Citadel. Along the way to Deception Lakes I encountered only 2 pairs of hikers. The first were two guys who had been exploring the area for about a week. They were perplexed when I told them I was heading to Square Lake - "it didn't appear possible from Surprise Mtn" they told me. I assured them the topo map indicated otherwise and bid them a safe farewell on their journey to Fisher Lakes. The next person I encountered was stopped by the side of the trail making adjustments to his 70+ lb. pack. I could hear System of a Down's "Toxicity" emanating from the large boom box attached to the top of his pack. Upon greeting him he responded with a loud shriek, apparently thinking I was a bear or cougar. I extended my sincerest apologies and continued on, eventually passing his partner who was waiting at the trail junction further ahead. They indicated they would be camping at Deception Lakes and I was all to happy to know I would be camping a safe distance away. Upon reaching Deception Lakes I was relieved to find minimal bugs. Whatever bugs were skimming the lake were making the fish quite happy. I traversed around the first two lakes before eventually reaching a large meadow, also the location of the official horse camp. Given the brush I encountered while traversing the north end of the middle lake I concluded the horse camp trail would be a better choice on my return. I debated heading to the upper lake but figured I could just as easily hit it on my return, and so headed directly for the saddle at 5720' to the northeast. Upon reaching the saddle I was surprised to find a well beaten trail bearing NW down to Square Lake. I followed the trail for about two tenths of a mile or so until it petered out upon reaching a small talus field. From here there appeared to be a faint path heading straight down through trees to the lake. The topo lines on my map indicated this was not the most reasonable of descents and so I opted for another faint path which continued along same general direction I had been following. After crossing a few more talus fields and skirting around a cliff I eventually reached a talus field which led easily down to the lake. Square Lake was a much larger lake than I had expected and I was glad I had brought along my 4 lb. trail boat for exploration. I considered boating around to find a campsite but unfortunately my boat was at the bottom of my pack and I did not wish to unpack and repack everything. I traversed over to the inlet which appeared to have a nice campsite and plenty of trees to support my hammock. After setting up camp and cooking dinner I was tempted to go for a ride in my boat but the wind had picked up significantly and I did not care to be swept out into the middle of the lake with darkness little more than an hour away. I decided to relax in the hammock and plan out the events of the next day. Choices abound... scramble up and over to Swallow Lakes or boat around Square Lake and explore Upper Square Lake, Milk Lake, Wolverine Lake, and the dam & old guard cabin by the outlet. I decided I would attempt Swallow Lakes the next day, then explore Square Lake on Monday before heading home. After finding a sweet spot in the hammock I drifted off to sleep. During the night I awoke frequently to heavy gusts of wind. By 3 AM I began to hear the pitter patter of raindrops and was glad I had thrown the rain fly over the hammock. By morning my zest for exploration had waned. Visibility was poor and it was downright cold, windy, and wet. Given these conditions, Swallow Lakes was out of the question as was boating around Square Lake. I decided to check out Upper Square Lake but after traveling a short distance I found myself completely drenched by the surrounding vegetation. The weather did not seem to letting up and the prospect of waiting things out in my hammock did not hold much appeal. By 10 AM I decided to pack things up and head home. On the way back I decided to check out Upper Deception Lake. Upon reaching the lake I decided it was not worth getting the camera lens wet. I hastily continued down to the meadows and back to the main trail. Before branching off from the Pacific Crest Trail I met up with a thru-hiker who had started in Mexico and had "only two more weeks to go". I asked if rain slowed him down at all and he cheerfully replied "no, it helps me move faster." The rest of the way down I encountered only one group of hikers, all wearing t-shirts - I gathered it must not have been raining in Seattle. Well, enough rambling, I hope you enjoy the few pictures from this trip . Stats: 12 miles, 5 hours & 2700' of gain in, 4 hours & 1300' of gain out

[Backpacker Joe]

Hey Thomas, great report. Did you not get to the outlet end of the lake? I was wondering what the cabin looked like. I was there some years back and I hope she's still standing. Anyway, yours sounds like the way to get in there. TB

[Tom]

Nope, I was a relatively wimpy fair weather hiker. Given my lack of experience with the trail boat and the heavy winds I didn't want to risk getting sunk and/or swept out in the middle of the lake traveling solo. I definitely plan to return though - the pictures from other side of the lake would likely be spectacular with mac peak and all the granite in the background. Just wondering, how many years ago were you there?

[Backpacker Joe]

I came in the Leavenworth way, some ten years ago. Square Lake Outlet

[MtnGoat]

cabin has been collapsed since at least '91, it had already fallen down on our first visit.

[Backpacker Joe]

Well rats! When I was there the roof had started to come off, but the cabin was fine. I spent time inside. DAMN! TB

[Huling]

Hi Tom, Three of us made it into Square but a day later than planned and only as a day hike. Beautiful place. Unfortunately we didn't read your report close enough to ascertain the route you took in and apparently did a much harder route. I've attached a scan of our route. Would like to hear more detail as to your route after getting to the Horse Camp meadow. Huling

[Tom]

Huling, it looks like your attachment didn't get attached. I basically headed straight for the saddle to the northeast of the horse camp. Perhaps you hit the other saddle (to the southeast).