Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Logan 9087' - Fremont Glacier - July 28-30, 2015
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Gimpilator
Shitcoin Minimalist



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1561 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
Shitcoin Minimalist
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 6:57 pm 
video link for mobile devices

Day 1

We walked a long-a$$ way from Colonial Creek campground to the Thunder Basin horse camp.

Skagit Queen mine remains
Skagit Queen mine remains
Skagit Queen mine remains
Skagit Queen mine remains
chrysalis
chrysalis
anyone know what this is?
anyone know what this is?
Thunder Basin
Thunder Basin

Day 2

We followed the trail nearly to Park Creek Pass, but turned off on a boot path at 5800 feet.  This path is intermittent, but helps in crossing of two rocky gullies.  We then traversed around the first southwest trending ridge and ascended talus and slabs until we reached the base of the Fremont Glacier.  There were melt-water channels coming down on top of the ice.  It does not look like a healthy glacier should.

Buckner
Buckner
ptarmigan
ptarmigan
Fall colors in July?  WTF
Fall colors in July?  WTF
Buckner and Boston
Buckner and Boston
traverse
traverse
Buckner
Buckner
Forbidden
Forbidden
Sahale, Boston
Sahale, Boston
Ripsaw Ridge
Ripsaw Ridge

We roped up and ascended to the top of the glacier looking for a hogsback formation.  Unfortunately it was almost entirely melted away.  So much for easy access to the upper ramp...  We looked for an easy way to cross the moat and found it on the right side.  This put us on some rock which alternated between class 4 and low fifth for about 25 vertical feet.

summit visible
1 label
summit visible
Fremont Glacier
Fremont Glacier
Eldorado
Eldorado
moat difficulty
moat difficulty

I put in a few pieces of protection and we simul-climbed to the nice slanting ledge above.  It was covered in loose rock, but wide enough for safe travel.  At the upper left end of the ledge, after a few moves of class 3, there was an exposed step across to another ledge and this went all the way to the ridge crest.

nice ledge
nice ledge
on the ridge crest
on the ridge crest
Douglas Glacier below
Douglas Glacier below

We passed through a narrow gap which was shaped like a corridor and then descended slightly on ledges while traversing north on the east face.  The ledges seemingly ended at a very exposed gully with three more ledges on the far side.  The lowest ledge on the far side looked narrow and awkward.  I set up a belay station and Fletcher belayed me across the gully.  I tried the upper most ledge first and this dumped me out on the grassy upper slope next to two large cairns.  From there I set up another belay to bring Fletcher and Michael up.

exposed gully
1 label
exposed gully
view full size to see Fletcher and Michael
1 label
view full size to see Fletcher and Michael
class 2 below false summit
class 2 below false summit
summit pinnacle
9 labels
summit pinnacle

We ascended class 2 talus and ledges on the upper east face, passed another gap in the ridge, and then scrambled up to the false summit.  There was one non-exposed slabby climbing move of 5.6, but it could be avoided by scrambling more exposed class 3 immediately to the right.

view north from summit
view north from summit
view south from summit
view south from summit
Ragged Ridge
Ragged Ridge
small panorama
small panorama
detailed large panorama
detailed large panorama
Fletcher near the summit
Fletcher near the summit
group shot
group shot

From the false summit we had a very impressive view of the peak, somewhat daunting truthfully.  We scrambled down and then traversed to the gap between the two points.  Fletcher found the scramble route going up the east side, again making use of more ledges.  He made it nearly to the summit, but then a class 4 move, more exposed than anything thus far, made him think twice.  I set up a final belay station and then was the first to reach the summit.  I then belayed Fletcher and Michael to the top.

Fletcher and Michael on the summit
Fletcher and Michael on the summit
upper Park Creek drainage fire
upper Park Creek drainage fire
exposed gully
exposed gully
Michael in the exposed gully
Michael in the exposed gully
west side slanting ramp
west side slanting ramp
single rappel
single rappel
single rappel
single rappel

Above the glacier, the entire route could be done without rope, depending on your comfort level.  During the descent we didn't use the rope except to get past the class 4 move right under the summit and then a single rappel back into the moat at the glaciers edge.  On the summit we noted several fires to the south, including a new one in the Park Creek drainage.

Day 3

We walked a long-a$$ way from Thunder Basin horse camp to the Colonial Creek campground.

trail banshee
trail banshee

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Summitpost |
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Fletcher
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1796 | TRs | Pics
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
Member
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 6:57 pm 
This was an amazing trip with scary scrambling and some of the coolest views I have ever had. The trail up Thunder Creek is in great shape, which makes those long miles go by pretty quickly.
Thunder Creek from the bridge about a mile in
Thunder Creek from the bridge about a mile in
big tree
big tree
I think thats Boston and the Boston Glacier, from Junction Camp
I think thats Boston and the Boston Glacier, from Junction Camp
Skagit Queen
Skagit Queen
brushy trail approaches Thunder Basin
brushy trail approaches Thunder Basin
morning views of the Chilliwacks
morning views of the Chilliwacks
:winksmile: Austera, Primus, Tricouni
winksmile.gif Austera, Primus, Tricouni
Boston Glacial Lake
Boston Glacial Lake
sad and scary how much water was pouring off the Fremont
sad and scary how much water was pouring off the Fremont
views were some of the best I have ever seen, Buckner and Boston
views were some of the best I have ever seen, Buckner and Boston
getting off the glacier
getting off the glacier
next weeks objective might be prominent in this picture...
next weeks objective might be prominent in this picture...
Goode
Goode
Adam on the east ledges
Adam on the east ledges
the easy section to the false summit
the easy section to the false summit
Mike getting high
Mike getting high
a tricky move
a tricky move
summit block
summit block
Adam tops out
Adam tops out
Buckner to Forbidden and the Boston Glacier
Buckner to Forbidden and the Boston Glacier
Mike just below the summit
Mike just below the summit
the exposed but easy class 3 gulley
the exposed but easy class 3 gulley
the moves were easy here, but a fall would likely be fatal
the moves were easy here, but a fall would likely be fatal
airy ledges
airy ledges
dont fall down to the Douglas
dont fall down to the Douglas
The notch
The notch
looking back at the eastside traverse
looking back at the eastside traverse
scrambling back down to the glacier
scrambling back down to the glacier
didnt seem as sketchy as on the way down
didnt seem as sketchy as on the way down
Boston
Boston
even more water pouring off the Fremont in the evening on the descent
even more water pouring off the Fremont in the evening on the descent
Buckner at dusk
Buckner at dusk

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Michael Lewis
Taking a nap



Joined: 27 Apr 2009
Posts: 625 | TRs | Pics
Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now)
Michael Lewis
Taking a nap
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 7:01 pm 
Great trip! Thanks so much for having me join. Here's some lousy garbage I took:

old washout before McAllister
old washout before McAllister
Fall colors up high
Fall colors up high
Fall colors in July
Fall colors in July
taken near Junction
taken near Junction
Skagit Queen mine
Skagit Queen mine
Skagit Queen mine
Skagit Queen mine
at the Skagit Queen mine ruin
at the Skagit Queen mine ruin
Looking towards Park Creek Pass
Looking towards Park Creek Pass
Morning Alpenglow on Buckner
Morning Alpenglow on Buckner
on the way to Mount Logan
on the way to Mount Logan
It's Scuba Steve!
It's Scuba Steve!
Momma protecting her chick
Momma protecting her chick
Fletcher chillin
Fletcher chillin
Lettin' em' breathe
Lettin' em' breathe
Whirlpool with Boston Glacier
Whirlpool with Boston Glacier
too cool for school
too cool for school
break on the Fremont Glacier
break on the Fremont Glacier
View through the notch
View through the notch
Fletcher belays Adam
Fletcher belays Adam
Shabby Trio
Shabby Trio
Error 403
Error 403
Goode before the fire
Goode before the fire
Eldorado
Eldorado
Dome, Glacier and the Ptarmigan Traverse
Dome, Glacier and the Ptarmigan Traverse
Fletcher scrambling down
Fletcher scrambling down
Bad smoke near Goode
Bad smoke near Goode
Douglas glacier crevasses
Douglas glacier crevasses
Adam prepares to rap
Adam prepares to rap
Alpine Daises
Alpine Daises
The one in Washington state
The one in Washington state
Backlit Devil's club
Backlit Devil's club

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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent



Joined: 23 Feb 2009
Posts: 3275 | TRs | Pics
Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 8:28 pm 
Nice job, guys!
up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

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Year 2022: 50 pounds lighter but not 50 points brighter.
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Distel32
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Member


Joined: 03 Jun 2014
Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Distel32
Member
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 9:18 pm 
up.gif

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RichP
Member
Member


Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 5347 | TRs | Pics
Location: here and there
RichP
Member
PostFri Jul 31, 2015 10:26 pm 
Awesome teamwork to get that one.  up.gif

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Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger



Joined: 29 Sep 2005
Posts: 5133 | TRs | Pics
Location: Alaska
Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger
PostSun Aug 02, 2015 6:37 pm 
Dang, me and my beard would have fit in great in those summit shots!!!
Awesome trip guys!!

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PorcupinePhobia
Murse



Joined: 04 Mar 2012
Posts: 1002 | TRs | Pics
Location: Hwy20
PorcupinePhobia
Murse
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 1:12 am 
Really truly my new favorite climbing video. Really excellent mixing  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

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Gimpilator
Shitcoin Minimalist



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1561 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
Shitcoin Minimalist
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 2:43 pm 
Thanks everyone!!!

PorcupinePhobia wrote:
Really truly my new favorite climbing video. Really excellent mixing  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif

That's very kind of you.  I saw your note this morning and it sort of made my day.   smile.gif

I went back and found this photo of Logan which I took on the summit of Goode a couple years ago.  What a cool peak!

August 12, 2013
August 12, 2013

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Summitpost |
YouTube | Peakbagger
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littlebit
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Member


Joined: 23 Jun 2012
Posts: 39 | TRs | Pics
Location: Winthrop WA
littlebit
Member
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 5:59 pm 
Thanks for a great trip report and a really fine video. My wife and I tried this route in 2007. We had more snow so we were able to scramble up the ledge from the glacier (see pic). However we turned around at the first exposed gully on the east side since we had no rope (the exposure became a bit much).

Fremont glacier: 7/6/07
Fremont glacier: 7/6/07

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wbegasse
Member
Member


Joined: 25 Dec 2010
Posts: 58 | TRs | Pics
Location: Renton, WA
wbegasse
Member
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 8:16 pm 
How were the bugs at the Thunder Basin stock camp?

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Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
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Fletcher
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1796 | TRs | Pics
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
Member
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 9:17 pm 
They weren't too bad there, we had cool overnight lows, probably around 40.

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wbegasse
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Member


Joined: 25 Dec 2010
Posts: 58 | TRs | Pics
Location: Renton, WA
wbegasse
Member
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 9:18 pm 
Thanks Fletcher.  Heading up there this weekend if the smoke isn't too bad.  Just trying to decide if we bivy or bring a tent.

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Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 7035 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostMon Aug 03, 2015 10:15 pm 
Nice photos everyone. Glad you got that peak -- it's a major one in that area and a long ways no matter where you come from.

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Mid Fork Rocks flickr
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors



Joined: 15 Jul 2010
Posts: 2030 | TRs | Pics
Location: Grand Junction
Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
PostWed Aug 05, 2015 9:21 pm 
Josh and I saw a big group of backpackers coming down off Easy Pass on our way up Mesahchie Peak on the 1st who said they saw you guys. Nice work!

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The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!!
SummitPost Profile
See my website at:
http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Logan 9087' - Fremont Glacier - July 28-30, 2015
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