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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
video link for mobile devices
Day 1
We walked a long-a$$ way from Colonial Creek campground to the Thunder Basin horse camp.
Skagit Queen mine remains Skagit Queen mine remains chrysalis anyone know what this is? Thunder Basin
Day 2
We followed the trail nearly to Park Creek Pass, but turned off on a boot path at 5800 feet. This path is intermittent, but helps in crossing of two rocky gullies. We then traversed around the first southwest trending ridge and ascended talus and slabs until we reached the base of the Fremont Glacier. There were melt-water channels coming down on top of the ice. It does not look like a healthy glacier should.
Buckner ptarmigan Fall colors in July? WTF Buckner and Boston traverse Buckner Forbidden Sahale, Boston Ripsaw Ridge
We roped up and ascended to the top of the glacier looking for a hogsback formation. Unfortunately it was almost entirely melted away. So much for easy access to the upper ramp... We looked for an easy way to cross the moat and found it on the right side. This put us on some rock which alternated between class 4 and low fifth for about 25 vertical feet.
Fremont Glacier Eldorado moat difficulty
I put in a few pieces of protection and we simul-climbed to the nice slanting ledge above. It was covered in loose rock, but wide enough for safe travel. At the upper left end of the ledge, after a few moves of class 3, there was an exposed step across to another ledge and this went all the way to the ridge crest.
nice ledge on the ridge crest Douglas Glacier below
We passed through a narrow gap which was shaped like a corridor and then descended slightly on ledges while traversing north on the east face. The ledges seemingly ended at a very exposed gully with three more ledges on the far side. The lowest ledge on the far side looked narrow and awkward. I set up a belay station and Fletcher belayed me across the gully. I tried the upper most ledge first and this dumped me out on the grassy upper slope next to two large cairns. From there I set up another belay to bring Fletcher and Michael up.
1 label view full size to see Fletcher and Michael class 2 below false summit
We ascended class 2 talus and ledges on the upper east face, passed another gap in the ridge, and then scrambled up to the false summit. There was one non-exposed slabby climbing move of 5.6, but it could be avoided by scrambling more exposed class 3 immediately to the right.
view north from summit view south from summit Ragged Ridge small panorama detailed large panorama Fletcher near the summit group shot
From the false summit we had a very impressive view of the peak, somewhat daunting truthfully. We scrambled down and then traversed to the gap between the two points. Fletcher found the scramble route going up the east side, again making use of more ledges. He made it nearly to the summit, but then a class 4 move, more exposed than anything thus far, made him think twice. I set up a final belay station and then was the first to reach the summit. I then belayed Fletcher and Michael to the top.
Fletcher and Michael on the summit upper Park Creek drainage fire exposed gully Michael in the exposed gully west side slanting ramp single rappel single rappel
Above the glacier, the entire route could be done without rope, depending on your comfort level. During the descent we didn't use the rope except to get past the class 4 move right under the summit and then a single rappel back into the moat at the glaciers edge. On the summit we noted several fires to the south, including a new one in the Park Creek drainage.
Day 3
We walked a long-a$$ way from Thunder Basin horse camp to the Colonial Creek campground.
trail banshee
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:57 pm
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This was an amazing trip with scary scrambling and some of the coolest views I have ever had. The trail up Thunder Creek is in great shape, which makes those long miles go by pretty quickly.
Thunder Creek from the bridge about a mile in big tree I think thats Boston and the Boston Glacier, from Junction Camp Skagit Queen brushy trail approaches Thunder Basin morning views of the Chilliwacks Austera, Primus, Tricouni Boston Glacial Lake sad and scary how much water was pouring off the Fremont views were some of the best I have ever seen, Buckner and Boston getting off the glacier next weeks objective might be prominent in this picture... Goode Adam on the east ledges the easy section to the false summit Mike getting high a tricky move summit block Adam tops out Buckner to Forbidden and the Boston Glacier Mike just below the summit the exposed but easy class 3 gulley the moves were easy here, but a fall would likely be fatal airy ledges dont fall down to the Douglas The notch looking back at the eastside traverse scrambling back down to the glacier didnt seem as sketchy as on the way down Boston even more water pouring off the Fremont in the evening on the descent Buckner at dusk
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Michael Lewis Taking a nap
Joined: 27 Apr 2009 Posts: 629 | TRs | Pics Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now) |
Great trip! Thanks so much for having me join. Here's some lousy garbage I took:
old washout before McAllister Fall colors up high Fall colors in July taken near Junction Skagit Queen mine Skagit Queen mine at the Skagit Queen mine ruin Looking towards Park Creek Pass Morning Alpenglow on Buckner on the way to Mount Logan It's Scuba Steve! Momma protecting her chick Fletcher chillin Lettin' em' breathe Whirlpool with Boston Glacier too cool for school break on the Fremont Glacier View through the notch Fletcher belays Adam Shabby Trio Error 403 Goode before the fire Eldorado Dome, Glacier and the Ptarmigan Traverse Fletcher scrambling down Bad smoke near Goode Douglas glacier crevasses Adam prepares to rap Alpine Daises The one in Washington state Backlit Devil's club
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Redwic Unlisted Free Agent
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to the Prom(inence) |
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
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Fri Jul 31, 2015 8:28 pm
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60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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Distel32 Member
Joined: 03 Jun 2014 Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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Distel32
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Fri Jul 31, 2015 9:18 pm
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Fri Jul 31, 2015 10:26 pm
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Awesome teamwork to get that one.
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Bryan K Shameless Peakbagger
Joined: 29 Sep 2005 Posts: 5129 | TRs | Pics Location: Alaska |
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Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger
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Sun Aug 02, 2015 6:37 pm
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Dang, me and my beard would have fit in great in those summit shots!!!
Awesome trip guys!!
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PorcupinePhobia Murse
Joined: 04 Mar 2012 Posts: 1002 | TRs | Pics Location: Hwy20 |
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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littlebit Member
Joined: 23 Jun 2012 Posts: 39 | TRs | Pics Location: Winthrop WA |
Thanks for a great trip report and a really fine video. My wife and I tried this route in 2007. We had more snow so we were able to scramble up the ledge from the glacier (see pic). However we turned around at the first exposed gully on the east side since we had no rope (the exposure became a bit much).
Fremont glacier: 7/6/07
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wbegasse Member
Joined: 25 Dec 2010 Posts: 60 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle WA |
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wbegasse
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Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:16 pm
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How were the bugs at the Thunder Basin stock camp?
Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:17 pm
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They weren't too bad there, we had cool overnight lows, probably around 40.
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wbegasse Member
Joined: 25 Dec 2010 Posts: 60 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle WA |
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wbegasse
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Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:18 pm
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Thanks Fletcher. Heading up there this weekend if the smoke isn't too bad. Just trying to decide if we bivy or bring a tent.
Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
Hiking, climbing, mountaineering, cycling and photography
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7216 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Mon Aug 03, 2015 10:15 pm
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Nice photos everyone. Glad you got that peak -- it's a major one in that area and a long ways no matter where you come from.
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Matt Lemke High on the Outdoors
Joined: 15 Jul 2010 Posts: 2052 | TRs | Pics Location: Grand Junction |
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Matt Lemke
High on the Outdoors
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Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:21 pm
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Josh and I saw a big group of backpackers coming down off Easy Pass on our way up Mesahchie Peak on the 1st who said they saw you guys. Nice work!
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