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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
Recluse Pk 7080' P480 is about 1 mile East of Spider Mtn. No info on it anywhere, not even a note in the CAG. First known ascent? FKA
Stefan, Iron and I set out for it this past weekend as we have had an eye on it for a few years now. On my trip to Spider Mtn last year, I looked to the East on the North side of Spider to see if there was a way to get past the steep slabs and sharp rib to access the narrow glacier waiting on the other side. There looked to be one spot that might work and that became the plan.
We left Edmonds at 4am on Saturday and arrived at the recently opened Cascade Pass TH by 630am. It was cold and cloudy from the start as we found a few down logs over the first few switchbacks along the trail. We arrived at the pass to more views from inside the cloud. As we headed up Mixup arm and towards the Cache glacier, some of the clouds started to lift.
iron and stefan with cascade pass below
We easily reached Cache col with one steep step at the top right side. From there, it was another white out towards Kool Aid lake. We grabbed some more water while talking to another climber heading for Formidable the next day. With limited visibility, we finally got to the Hurry Up/Art's Knoll col. It was originally a possible camp location but with our early start, we opted to get as close to our peak as we could.
As we crossed the col, the weather changed significantly. We could actually see some exciting mountain scenery. The North side of Spider mountain is jaw dropping as was a water fall dropping into a deep gorge.
waterfall Spider Mtn
From the col, we had to drop about 1500' before starting back up the snow and weaving around some polished slabs. We were thinking of changing plans and climb the East glacier instead of the intimidating rock rib to the East.
Recluse Pk on the left, steep rock rib in front needed to get past
We decided to check out the rib first as it should be an easier option if we can get to the other side. A couple of dead ends and lots of wet rock had us wondering if we were wasting our time on it. One last try down at 5350' had us getting access to the rib. A dirty gully, steep snow and loose rock had us on the rib at 5600'! Then we had a firm snow finger or steep ground to descend to get to the main small glacier. We went different ways and knew the toughest part was now behind us.
Spider Mtn iron admiring the W Flat creek valley Trappers Annex to Glory Spider Hurry Up Pk
We had another 1000' to gain to get to the saddle, the snow was great for kicking steps and we soon saw the other side. Rimrock ridge was just across the valley as we looked for a good place to set camp. We found a spot a few hundred feet below the saddle and took a well deserved break.
Recluse and our glacier ascent to the right Trappers Pk
We decided to climb to the summit since we still had plenty of daylight left in the day. The SW slope was mostly on snow with a small bit of crumbly rock to the top. We found no evidence of anyone ever being there before.
Recluse Pk Sinster and Dome Spider Iron and Stefan at the summit summit shot
We left a register and built a small cairn before dropping back down to camp. It was a long day but we all were thankful that everything went better than planned.
Stefan multi tasking
The next morning, we went separate ways as Iron and Stefan were hoping to find a way through Spider's East side for a summit attempt. I went back the way we came because climbing Spider last year was enough for me.
I was able to get another look at that tall waterfall and enjoy the remote basin that I was in.
Spider waterfalls glacier looking up to the HurryUp col
As I was traversing below the glacier, I heard and saw some snow splashing around above. It was an ice fall heading in my direction. As I could see it coming my way, I dropped my hiking poles and jumped over to some rocks as a bowling ball sized ice chunked whizzed by. I kept my eyes up slope the rest of the way through the basin.
I reached the col with one more great view of Spider and noticed that Iron and Stefan were heading down the East glacier, I guessed they didn't like what they saw on the East side of Spider.
Spider Iron and Stefan descending the glacier JBerg to Mixup
On the way back, I decided to climb Magic Mtn. I reached the South saddle, found a climbers trail which ended at the ridge. From there, it was soft snow, and a little scrambling to the summit. It was a little spicier than I expected but it went.
flowers Hurry Up Pk Glory and Trappers Lake
On the way back down MixUp arm, I ran into TomS and Dicey going for a pretty nice 5 day trip. It was good chatting with them before heading back down to the TH.
22 miles
11000' elevation gain
2 days
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Redwic Unlisted Free Agent
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to the Prom(inence) |
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
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Mon Jun 27, 2016 10:58 pm
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60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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Whoa! Now that's some solid peak bagging! Nice work, looks like an awesome time!
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Mon Jun 27, 2016 11:31 pm
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I wasn't aware of that one. Nice work getting there. You guys still move awfully fast, to get there and back in two days.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:22 am
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raising3hikers wrote: | Spider Mtn |
I may be getting old and conservative, but those big cornices up there would freak me out!
Did you find a register? Too much snow? I bet this peak has been climbed only a few times.
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Distel32 Member
Joined: 03 Jun 2014 Posts: 961 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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Distel32
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 5:37 am
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b00 Member
Joined: 29 Sep 2003 Posts: 1144 | TRs | Pics
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b00
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 7:24 am
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wow!!!
so cool that you were able to find a way that worked to get there and make such good time to camp. that route was a brilliant idea!
congrats!!!
:>)
ps - why was magic hard? did you drop down and around on the easy gully and ramp system between the false summit and the true summit?
ps to iron - i thought you going to name this edith peak :>)
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:08 am
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puzzlr wrote: | I may be getting old and conservative, but those big cornices up there would freak me out! |
those cornices are 3000ft above us. when walking through a basin like this, you can see where the typical fall/debris zones are. for the most part, we were walking only through areas with clean snow. the one exception was the part where r3h had the bowling ball sized ice chunk whiz by, and that was from icefall.
puzzlr wrote: | Did you find a register? Too much snow? I bet this peak has been climbed only a few times. |
no register. we believe this to be a first ascent. summit was snow-free. no cairn.
Matt wrote: | You guys still move awfully fast, to get there and back in two days. |
ironically, i think this peak could be daytripped with the right snow conditions. this past weekend, it would have been daytrippable. we had some awesome glissading opportunities that really helps save time. so, for future peakbaggers, i would suggest a late spring snowpack that is stable, followed by a recent dump of new snow to soften things up for glissading purposes. if this route doesn't have snow, it would surely be quite tedious.
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Stefan Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 5093 | TRs | Pics
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Stefan
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 12:59 pm
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Here are my pics. I had a great time!
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
Member
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 1:24 pm
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Congratulations to all for making it first ascent or not.
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Awesome trip! Several years back a friend of mine alluded to an FA remaining, somewhere along the Ptarmigan Traverse, but he wouldn't tell me which peak. Now I know. Very cool.
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Nice !
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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Justus S. Member
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1298 | TRs | Pics Location: WA |
Nice job getting out there. Looks like a peak better suited for the skiers.
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Tue Jun 28, 2016 10:33 pm
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Good name for it also, catching both the rarely visited connotation and the connection to Spider.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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mbravenboer Member
Joined: 20 Oct 2013 Posts: 1422 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Great photos
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