[gray matter]

This trip report has been a long time coming. Between the arrival of our daughter, Sierra, who is nearly 3 years old, and our move to Anacortes, along with the purchase of a business, climbing had been on the back burner for a while. Two years ago, my buddies Chris, Mike and I went out to the Pasayten with grand peak-bagging aspirations that were quickly dashed by my lack of conditioning. We summitted Mt. Lago on that trip, but left a lot of peaks for a return trip. So, back to Slate Pass we went!

Mike P. and I headed up and over Slate Pass and on to Fred's lake for night one.

In the morning, we packed up and slid over to Doris Lake and scrambled up Osceola Peak.

We were up and down in good time on fresh legs. We hung out for a short time before moving to our second camp.

Next, we trekked on over Shellrock Pass and made a home for three nights at the small tarn between Shellrock and Butte Pass.

The next morning brought clear skies and with them, aspirations of Ptarmigan Peak. On our previous trip, we attempted Ptarmigan via the Lease-Dot ridge route from the camp in Eureka Creek valley. When it was clear that I was not in the condition to do that route, we bailed and ascended the north side of Mt. Lago. This time, we approached from the southeast via Butte Pass. I should have spent more time reading trip reports, because there is plenty of information about the special kind of suck that is the Ptarmigan Creek trail. Under no circumstances would I recommend that anybody descend into that mess of blowdowns and overgrowth. Unless you love swear words. Then, by all means, go right ahead.

After the blowdown debacle, we ascended the east side of Ptarmigan. It wasn't until we got up to treeline that this route became fun. By that time, Mike was getting a bit gassed.

We sure as heck weren't going down the way we came up, so we decided to head down to the Ptarmigan-Dot col and descend to the Dot Lakes.

From the dot lakes, we traversed and then chose a route over the NE rib of Lago as described by twodogdad here. This was a much more efficient and pleasant way to get to and from Ptarmigan. We woke up the following morning to a consistent and persistent storm. Rest day. We weren't going to tag Lost Peak in this weather. It rained consistently for about 10 hours before we got a short break to filter some water and make dinner. The following morning still featured low clouds but had promise. We left camp a bit later than normal for Lost Peak.

We had the opportunity to look down on our route up Ptarmigan, which made me curse again. I am sorry about that, Lost Peak. That wasn't about you. We got back to camp in good time and enjoyed a pleasant evening in the back country.

The following morning came early, and we packed up and humped back over Shellrock Pass.

The main packs got stowed in the over head compartments and we donned our summit packs for the ridge run up Blackcap Peak. Blackcap was easily the highlight of this trip. Based upon the straightforward nature of the other peaks in this region, I was not mentally prepared for the sustained class 3 scrambling that we encountered. I re-focused, and had a great time

We still had a small snowfield to take advantage of on the descent. It was a pleasant reminder of how much more I love snow than talus.

We picked up our main packs and humped it back to a nice campsite on the middle fork Pasayten. This is how I felt after that.

We were up early on Friday and back to the car at 11:00 am. All smiles!

We didn't get to attempt Carru due to conditioning and weather challenges. So, we will have to get back to the area once more. BETA: The trail all the way to Lake Doris has been cleared of blowdowns. A trail party came in after we entered and cleared the trail to Fred's Lake. It was a pleasant surprise to not have to negotiate the dozen blowdowns! The trail through the Eureka Creek valley is serviceable. There are a number of blowdowns and some overgrown brushy areas, but we were able to get up and over Shellrock Pass with minimal disturbance. Ptarmigan Creek Trail: Don't, just don't. Mother nature has reclaimed this trail. Ptarmigan Peak route: If you don't want to approach from the Carru-Lago col and complete the Lease-Dot ridge traverse, you can access a route from Butte Pass. Descend scree and talus slopes from the pass into the Ptarmigan creek valley. Ascend the tree covered gulley (class 3) over the NE rib of Mt. Lago. Make an ascending traverse over heather covered slopes to Dot Lakes. Ascend to the head of the valley and ascend a very loose gulley to Dot-Ptarmigan col. Finish the route.

[wildernessed]

Nice !

[Conrad]

Dates?

[gray matter]

July 30th through August 5th. Got home yesterday.

[RichP]

Good job getting those done. Carru will be a leisurely trip next time you head up there. Blackcap is my favorite of the bunch too.

[Distel32]

[Fletcher]

I love it out there. Blackcap is definitely the best. I got stormed out of doing Lago, and also haven't done Ptarmigan. I have been planning on a Ptarmigan-Lago-Rolo Traverse ever since.

[Bedivere]

Great trip! One of my favorite areas.

[BlameTheDogz]

Nice work, and thanks for the beta! The DognI got turned around on what was supposed to be a big loop up to the Tatoosh Buttes, Ptarmigan, and Dot and then around to Shellrock Pass and those class dog peaks via the Hidden Lakes due to that same suckfest of a former trail. As I was unsure whether the route to Lago over Dot was dog friendly, we tucked tail and went back the long way. I have been thinking about revisiting that area again soon ...