[neek]

The Pacific NW is one of the best places on earth year-round IMHO but there usually comes a time in late winter when I start wondering "God, when will it end" and therefore have developed the habit of seeking temporary relief in warmer climes around this time of year. Coincidence of our kindergartener's mid-winter break with a birthday where I happened to turn a particular even multiple of ten justified making the excursion extra special this year, and we chose Kauai, being one of the Hawaiian islands we had not yet visited. The weeklong visit was exceptional and I am particularly grateful to my wife for understanding my desire to spend nearly 3 full days hiking solo. The weather fully cooperated: sunny when desired, cloudy when it got to be too much, and no rain to speak of. Here I will highlight the two hikes that are likely to be of most interest to folks in this forum. Feb 22: Kukui trail, Kaluahā'ula ridge Most people, when they think of Hawaii, think of beaches, coconuts, luaus, leis... not getting lost in the wilderness, thrashing through brambles up steep hillsides, getting scratched up from head to toe. Let's just call these people "normal". My goal for this day was to do something off the beaten path at pretty much any cost. In that respect I was quite successful, not seeing another person all day until 15 minutes before the very end. This is not a route I would repeat (without a machete) but it was thoroughly enjoyable and worthwhile. I started by descending the scenic Kukui trail to the Waimea river. This is a very dry area, almost desert-like--and a few miles away from one of the wettest spots on earth, go figure. Anyway, the 2.5 miles went quickly and were quite enjoyable, if pedestrian.

Iliau plants

...after flowering

Waimea canyon

Halfway down the Kukui trail

Forest at the valley floor

Waimea river

I then headed up the 4WD road that a few brave people with the right vehicle can actually drive on, for about a mile to Kaluahā'ula camp. Old maps show a trail going up the ridge here... absolutely no signs of it. The whole thing is obliterated. I took it anyway, or at least a route with the same idea. Did some bushwhacking but mostly stuck with steep dirt and rock drainage slopes (flash flood danger was low this day). I could have followed the ridge indefinitely but stopped around 1pm when the brush started getting particularly bad again. Crawling your way up steep grassy slopes (grass here towers over your head when it's not dry and partially matted down like it was for me) is one thing, getting fresh scratches re-scratched by stickerbushes is another.

Not for rental cars

Stone wall

Canyon view from part way up the other side

Not sure what this tree is called but they are common in the area

From about 3000 ft on Kaluaha`ula ridge

Not sure if this was a fence, or what

Looking across to the west rim

Frog

The trip down was not so pleasant. For some reason I couldn't find my ascent route. Ended up doing way more painful stickerbush thrashing than anticipated. But, whatever. It still beat sitting in an office like a stooge. Sorry, no pictures from this part. It's hard to take a picture of cursing.

Back on the Kukui trail, probably looking at Wai'alae falls

It really is quite reminiscent of the Grand Canyon, like they say. Just smaller, with more trees, and geologically completely different

Bottom line, there's lots of backcountry on this small island. I'd like to go back some day and explore further. Feb 24-25: Kalalau trail (Na Pali Coast) Enough has been said about one of the most hyped trails in the country, so I won't describe it. As a Cascade scrambler you might like to know my take on it though. Have to admit, it was pretty awesome. The crowds were pretty thick for the first 2 miles but the trail was usually wide enough for passing. You need a permit to go beyond that (although mine was never checked) and a couple months prior I happened to score one of the only remaining ones for the week of our visit (that happened to start on my birthday, the day I actually wanted to go). After mile 7, things get exceptionally scenic--and exposed. Although there's always a solid trail, there are places where errors wouldn't be forgiven. Not a place for kids of any age in my opinion.

First views of the Na Pali coast

At 6 miles there is a camping area and half mile side trail to an excellent waterfall. I'm not sure why you'd camp here (bugs, no views, smelly toilet) unless you got a really late start.

Hanakoa falls

Things get really nice after that though.

Kalalau stream

At 10 miles there is a 2-mile side trail up Kalalau valley (this is where the smelly but very friendly hippies live). Seeing the traces of civilization here (rock terracing) is interesting.

Kalalau valley

Weird plant

The only minor mishap occurred about 9 miles in. It was quite windy, and a sudden gust yanked the sun hat from my head, despite the chin strap being tight. It went right over the edge and stopped about 10 ft down. A sane person would have simply kept walking. Of course I was determined to retrieve the crusty old thing because 1) my bald head really needed it, 2) I don't like to litter, and 3) although I know nature will ultimately prevail, I don't like to lose in the short term. As you can see in this picture taken the following day, stepping down the dirt slope would have been suicide. Those little rocks aren't secure, they just break away when you step on them. I managed to inch down a few feet and touch the hat with my pole (not sure what good that was supposed to do) but only managed to kick some rocks onto it and knock it down a few feet further. Clearly I needed a longer pole. Went back up to duct tape a tent pole to the end of my trekking pole. With that completed, I turned around to see the wind had knocked it even further. But now it was closer to something of a ramp (you can kind of see it on the right side of the pic). I inched down this ramp and with my double pole managed to retrieve the damned thing. Now this may all seem quite stupid (and it was) but keep in mind, I know what I'm doing, I'm not going to leave myself without a safety net. I didn't step anywhere where an unexpected slip wouldn't have been recoverable.

Not the best place to lose your hat

With that behind me, the rest of the hike was as magical as could be hoped for.

This photo is unprocessed, aside from removing a yellow tint

Kalalau beach

Cave

I'm incredibly introverted and generally prefer to be alone, but have to admit that when I got to the beach at the end of the 11-mile trail I was a little sad to not have some company.

I went fairly extreme ultralight on this trip because it never drops much below 60. I didn't know if it would rain (it didn't) or if there would be bugs (there weren't) so I did bring a bivy tent. Plus silk liner and down jacket. Otherwise: no sleeping bag, pad, pillow, stove, etc. Yes the ground was hard but I didn't mind too much and slept as well as I usually do when camping (which is to say, not great).

The hike out was uneventful and I got back to the parking lot for the state park around 1pm.

Goats

If you do this hike you'll understand at least the sentiment on the left

Saw plenty of pretty flowers along the way, but in general Hawaii isn't the land of massive tropical blossoms some people seem to think it is.

Anyway, yeah, do this hike if you can swing it. You won't regret it. A few parting shots from the island:

Spreading the Aloha

Sealplay

Ubiquitous on the island. You'll start craving chicken stew

Tourists. But seriously, compare the volume to, say, Old Faithful. Given our expectations, we were surprised by how few crowds we ran into.

Red dirt, it's everywhere

[lookout bob]

totally jealous. But, lovely report and great pictures. It is not worth dying for your hat. Glad you had a fun trip!!! Here's to understanding spouses!!

[Sculpin]

[thename]

Great report for the Kalalau, possibly the most wonderful trail in the US. For anyone else who's considering there or if anyone's returning? Cannot recommend the Awa'awapuhi trail for a dayhike. Kalalau is amazing for a night or more but the Awaawapuhi offers some pretty amazing views.

[neek]

Thanks! Assume you mean you DO highly recommend the Awa'awapuhi trail. I was wanting to do that loop but the Nualolo Cliff connector trail is still closed. Still looks like a great trail by itself though.

[joker]

Thanks for bringing back great memories of a few trips out to Kalalau a long time ago. Yeah, Hanakoa is OK for a quick water break, but I would not want to camp there given the alternatives (Hanakapia is not bad if you are getting a late start on a multi-night venture though). And winter, when they can't land zodiac boats full of tourons on the beach, is absolutely the time to go. Interesting to know that folks still live out there. The first time we went, in '89, there was a crew living right on the bench above the beach. One guy taught me how to catch freshwater prawns in the river, which made for a nice dinner one night along with some cooked green papaya. When we went again in '91, the state had started sending helicopter patrols to the beach periodically in wintertime so only one or maybe two folks remained, having moved up the valley. One of whom remembered us from two years prior. There I supposedly quite the fruit garden somewhere off the trail up the valley, but we did not find it. If you have time, IMO it's worth spending at least two nights at the end - more is better if you can let yourself relax a bit :-). Yes, the Awa'awapuhi hike is worth doing even if the connector to Nu'alolo is not open. Much of the hike is in forest, but there are some views, and the views at the end, from the crest of one of the pali, are nothing short of incredible. It's a nice moderate hike that even good natured non-hikers may enjoy. And it's just a bit closer to the dry corner of the island, so it will tend to have better weather than the start of the Kalalau trail during trade wind season.

[Distel32]

[Nancyann]

Beautiful pictures, thanks for the TR. Glad you had good weather, my brother went there a few months ago and heavy rain made the Kalalau Trail too dangerous to proceed very far up. #slightlyjealous

[Brushbuffalo]

Thanks for the very interesting account. Your effort to retrieve your hat reminded me of some YouTubes of people going beyond the wire path up Half Dome to get displaced things. Glad you made it OK. See any wild boar? Surely their sign, such as rooting up vegetation. Seems they are about as abundant as the goats but more secretive.

[mike]

[Fletcher]

Great photos. Brings me back to my Na Pali Coast hike last year. I had a really similar sunset the night I stayed at Kalalau. Such an awesome place!

[mbravenboer]

Very nice! Our 2 year old is still talking about Kauai on a daily basis "Go there" he ask all the time.

[D-Dub]

I did this as a day hike a few years ago. Loved it and wished I had got a permit to camp. There were lots of naked hippies when I went. Did a catamaran tour of the coast after the hike for the sunset and it was pretty amazing to see it from both sides. Ill be going back soon to stay a night or two. Something to mention, that little stream is typically about 20' across during the rainy season and flash floods, it has taken many flop flop based on the locals. Did you swim at the waterfall?

[puzzlr]

Interesting to see more from the trail. Without a permit I was limited to the beginning section.

[Roald]

Good to see you maxing out wherever you are, Nick! Great read and pics.