[forest gnome]

OK so every time I unscrew it with a certain brand of fuel canister..(pocket rocket stove ) IT FRIGGIN LEAKS A LITTLE.. SO just ad a little permanent stuff to the threads? I should be able to use a small torch to heat it up when I want to unscrew it to break the bond...WHEN it's empty... STORAGE will be wrapped in a towell....

[reststep]

You are joking I hope.

[Desertsp]

Asking for a small explosion. It will not be truly empty. There are non-permanant thread sealers for gas pipes that you can buy for a couple dollars at a hardware store. Basically like a goopy toothpaste that goes on the threads. You risk ruining the stove if it works its way into the narrow passageways in the Bruner, and it could possibly make a leak worse. Counterintuitive, I know, but the connection between stove and canister is engineered assuming a "dry" fit. But I don't think that's what's happening. What I suspect is actually going on is that the mechanism which connects the stove and gas canister isn't designed to be leak tight in a partially unscrewed position.

[Adohrn]

I think forest gnome is not complaining about the canister leaking when the stove is screwed on. It is possible for a canister to develop a slow basically hard to detect leak after it has been unscrewed from the stove which can fully or partially drain it. The valve of the canister does not properly reseat. Never had it happen to me yet knock on wood. If it's happening consistently I would call up cascade designs and see what they suggest or possibly have them repair the stove. +2 on the glueing and heating seeming dangerous. Leaving a stove on a canister for prolonged periods I think would just be asking for the canister to be completely drained. The on off valve for the stove is much less secure. When done cooking I disconnect the stove as soon as it cools down.

[mike]

[Randito]

Forest Gnome sure has caught a lot of fish with some "play doh" level bait.

[Ski]

your question is about 18 days late.

[Schenk]

OK, I'll bite and tug on the line a little; how 'bout this: Chinese stoves are so cheap that you could buy a few cases of them, use a big glob of epoxy to seal a fuel canister to each one, and then just toss it all in a river, or the ocean, when you're done. Or leave it behind in your camp so someone else will haul it all out. Or leave it on a cairn and it will add to the beauty of the area.

[reststep]

Looks like it is time to link to this hyggelig thread again.

[spamfoote]

What is leaking is probably your valve seal seat in the off position, not the threads. Unless your burner has a badly machined seat, the metal metal contact should be sufficient. Just tighten it more. Look for a bur on burner thread seat. If there is one try scrapping it off with a fine chisel. Or look for a divot. If there is a divot in the thread seat on your burner, either it came that way or you screwed it on with junk in the seat/threads and damaged it. Buy new. Garbage epoxy you buy in the hardware store will pop off the aluminum/brass when it heats up or just be itself due to differential thermal expansion. You are much better off going with teflon paste or teflon tape. Teflon paste will eventually harden up, so getting your stove burner off will be harder if you leave it on. So, between the two, go with teflon tape.

[forest gnome]

it's the can seal on one brand that leaks a little when unscrewing it....I can use locktight to secure it !

[contour5]

The EN 417 compliant aerosol valve and threaded mount assembly will keep your pressurized gas contained reasonably well aside from a brief release during attachment and removal. This technical limitation can be significantly reduced through the judicious application of manual dexterity. Listen carefully for the telltale "hiss" of escaping gas as you slowly rotate the canister off of the threaded stove mount. When you hear that leakage: SPIN REALLY FAST!