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MtnGoat Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 11992 | TRs | Pics Location: Lyle, WA |
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MtnGoat
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Fri Apr 14, 2017 2:56 pm
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An interesting blog post detailing the various pitfalls of attempting K2
Quote: | This monster of rock is the second tallest mountain on the planet reaching 8,611 metres (28,251 ft), just two hundred metres shorter than the king of mountains, Everest. Located solemnly in the monstrous Karakoram Range between Pakistan and China, the momentous alpine is only scaled by the most audacious of professional climbers. Although Everest is marginally higher, K2 has the second most extreme chance of death of all mountains in the world, with daring climbers ascending the mountain in fear of the 27% death rate that haunts the bottomless crevasses and bladed ridges all the way to the summit. One in four climbers have perished on this isolated mountain and few have endured the betraying altitudes of the mountain’s summit. |
Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock. - Will Rogers
Diplomacy is the art of saying 'Nice doggie' until you can find a rock. - Will Rogers
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zephyr aka friendly hiker
Joined: 21 Jun 2009 Posts: 3370 | TRs | Pics Location: West Seattle |
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zephyr
aka friendly hiker
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Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:12 pm
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Way back in the day when I attended NOLS, I was fortunate enough to spend time with Paul Petzoldt in my Wind Rivers Wilderness Expedition Course. He talked about K2 a number of times. That's when I first heard that mountain's name. Quote from the Wikipedia article: In 1938 Paul Petzoldt was a member of the first American team to attempt a climb on K2. For the climb he did not use assisted oxygen, he learned to use rhythmic breathing. He also used to tell us about climbing the Grand Teton when he was 16 (in cowboy boots no less). Paul was a larger than life kind of guy. I got to see him years later at the NOLS 25 year Reunion in Lander just before i went to Desert Storm.
That blog post article was a little hair-raising. Quote: No successful attempt at reaching the summit was made until as late as the 1950s, with all prior exhibitions ending with either death or abandonment, often a gruesome combination of the two. ~z
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GaliWalker Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 4930 | TRs | Pics Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Fri Apr 14, 2017 3:20 pm
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Nice.
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Malachai Constant Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2002 Posts: 16093 | TRs | Pics Location: Back Again Like A Bad Penny |
I had a friend who was an avid adventurous climber who made several first ascents in Alaska. His ability soon eclipsed mine and most of my climbing friends. He was invited to an expedition to climb K2 and was successful in summiting. At least one climber died in the process which is normal for this peak. After his returned he was quiet about the expedition in the same manner that most returning combat veterans are about his experiences. He never again climbed difficult peaks and became an fixture in hang and paragliding. It was sad but understandable.
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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SeanSullivan86 Member
Joined: 25 Jul 2009 Posts: 681 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle, WA |
I enjoyed the Viesturs/Roberts book on K2 ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/0767932609 )
It's basically 1 long chapter per expedition... covers the attempts in 38/39/53/54 most notably, and also earlier exploration and some later incidents.
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:28 pm
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K2: Siren of the Himalayas is one of the best mountaineering movies I've seen. It's a documentary, and doesn't over dramatize like so many do. A movie about climbing by climbers.
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cartman Member
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics Location: Fremont |
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cartman
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Sun Apr 16, 2017 8:36 pm
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K2 gets more attention due to its colorful, if tragic, history and the larger scale disasters over the last 30 years, but Annapurna is the deadliest of the 8000m peaks. Annapurna is unique in that it has no route that isn't extremely dangerous, even by 8000m climbing standards.
Viesturs' book is decent, but the best book on K2 is still K2:The Savage Mountain by Houston and Bates. Jim Curran's two K2 books are also quite good, as is Kurt Diemberger's The Endless Knot.
That blog writer needs a whole lot of work on his writing skills...
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GaliWalker Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 4930 | TRs | Pics Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Mon Apr 17, 2017 5:55 am
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Ed Viestur's take:
Quote: | You've said before that Annapurna was your toughest climb. Wouldn't K2 — the second-highest peak in the world — take the cake?
They were both difficult but in different ways. K2 was more difficult as far as my climbing ability, and just dealing with the nature of K2: getting beaten around with every step that you climb — it pushes you back equally. It was just a test of will, endurance, and ability.
The problem with Annapurna was the objective danger. It has some challenging climbing, but the fact that the risks are so unpredictable makes it just this nightmare of hoping that no avalanches will fall, no ice cliffs will break off. More of a mental challenge based on the risk.
And I've been there twice, and the conditions were bad, as they normally are. That's what made Annapurna, for me, way more worrisome than K2.
So if you had to pick one?
In a heartbeat I'd go back to K2 and not pick Annapurna. The lesser of two evils. |
The last sentence...
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trestle Member
Joined: 17 Aug 2008 Posts: 2093 | TRs | Pics Location: the Oly Pen |
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trestle
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Tue Apr 18, 2017 3:29 pm
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The PNW has a long and well-documented connection with K2 including some of the most dramatic accounts in mountain literature. Schoening, Wickwire, Roskelley, Viesturs, Whittaker etc.
Petzoldt was a beast in '39 and has never gotten his full due, no thanks to Mr. Wiessner.
"Life favors the prepared." - Edna Mode
"Life favors the prepared." - Edna Mode
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Backpacker Joe Blind Hiker
Joined: 16 Dec 2001 Posts: 23956 | TRs | Pics Location: Cle Elum |
Everest isnt scary! K2 IS scary!
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
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bobbi stillaGUAMish
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 8012 | TRs | Pics Location: olympics! |
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bobbi
stillaGUAMish
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Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:27 pm
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as i am typing this post, i'm watching the documentary, The Summit, about the 2008 K2 disaster
so far, pretty good
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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thunderhead Member
Joined: 14 Oct 2015 Posts: 1519 | TRs | Pics
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K2's summit is probably the place on earth that can legitimately claim "the worlds worst weather" title.
While nothing survives up high long enough to take accurate measurements, the summit is plastered by the core of the world's strongest jet stream throughout winter(and often during the rest of the year too). There was one storm a few years back where modeled free-air wind speeds peaked in the area at about 275knots... gusts on the summit pyramid likely approached and possibly exceeded 400 knots. With weather features that large, its unlikely our computer models were off by much... yikes. Whats the wind chill when its -40 out and the winds blowing at 350? Don't forget to add 10C or so back for mach ram rise!
...no wonder a winter ascent still eludes the worlds best climbers.
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trestle Member
Joined: 17 Aug 2008 Posts: 2093 | TRs | Pics Location: the Oly Pen |
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trestle
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Thu Apr 20, 2017 2:48 pm
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More than one climber has been blown completely off the mountain and carried to their demise at a lower elevation.
"Life favors the prepared." - Edna Mode
"Life favors the prepared." - Edna Mode
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thunderhead Member
Joined: 14 Oct 2015 Posts: 1519 | TRs | Pics
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I believe it... and then theres the many who have been pinned down by storms... stuck in their tents, unable to move... slowly getting HAPE and HACE and DVT...
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GaliWalker Have camera will use
Joined: 10 Dec 2007 Posts: 4930 | TRs | Pics Location: Pittsburgh |
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
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Wed Apr 26, 2017 8:46 pm
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Just saw it. Thanks for the suggestion!
I particularly enjoyed the approach footage and the shots from Concordia and basecamp, which took me down memory lane. However, the views in the footage from up on the mountain were mind blowing.
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