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markweth
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Joined: 08 Feb 2017
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markweth
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PostWed Jun 21, 2017 3:16 pm 
WOW! Talk about an adventure . . . I cut a wide swath through the Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness over three nights/four days and somewhere in the neighborhood of 56 miles. Some parts of the trip were great, others were absolutely terrific, and others were simply maddening. None of it was boring and most of it was awesome. Here goes . . .
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
I started on the Panjab Creek Trail early afternoon on Friday, June 16th, and made the climb to Indian Corral in good time and in a light rain most of the way. There was some water on the trail due to drainage issues, but overall I found the trail to be in good shape and pleasant to hike. Perhaps a quarter-mile or so from where the trail hits the meadow is a well-used trail, complete with user-made sign ("Dusty Trail") that leads to a hunting camp ("Dusty Camp", again with a user-made sign).
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
It was a bit tricky navigating from the meadow to the junction with Mount Misery Trail, but I eventually ended up at the (signed) junction with Crooked Creek Trail and headed over to Dunlap Spring to get some water. I then continued on Mount Misery Trail toward Diamond Peak and saw a beautiful cinnamon colored black bear in one of the meadows. Clover Spring and Bear Wallow Spring had signs and decent camping near Bear Wallow Spring, but I pushed on an ended up camping at a signless spring (and one unnamed on the USFS wilderness map) but that I've seen referred to other places as "Squaw Spring". This campsite appeared to be heavily used, but was conveniently located.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
The next day I continued toward Diamond Peak intending to take the Melton Creek Trail down to Crooked Creek, to the Wenaha River, and to Fairview Bar to camp. A long day made even longer because I missed the junction and hiked all the way to the Diamond Peak Trailhead and had to backtrack. The junction is indistinct and was partially obscured by snow and, although signed, the sign is perfectly camouflaged. I didn't beat myself up over the mistake, figuring the extra 1.2 miles added to the hike were punishment enough. There was some snow in this stretch but nothing that was inconvenient.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
I continued on the Melton Creek Trail and down its endless switchbacks, enjoying the nice views and wildflower patches. There were some blowdowns on the trail but nothing that really interfered with my pace, just allowed me to exercise some different muscle groups. The crossing of Melton Creek was done without taking my boots off (or getting them wet) but at First Creek I did have to ford it, but it wasn't too big a deal.The lower stretch of Crooked Creek trail was rather overgrown, but the trail was still easily followed. The unbridged crossing of Crooked Creek on a log was a bit nerve-wracking but was convenient enough. The trail along the Wenaha River was in good shaped to Fairview Bar and appeared to have been recently worked on. The forest here ranged from having been badly burned to catastrophically burned and Fairview Bar was not an appealing place to camp, but it was where I laid myself to rest for the night after jumping in the river to cool down and rinse off.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
The next morning I got an early start on the climb up to Smooth Ridge/Weller Butte. As seems to be the pattern in the Wenaha-Tucannon, the junction was indistinct but the trail was obvious as it headed up the open hillside. Some great views of the Wenaha Canyon made me stop in my tracks at the top. Important warning here -- once the trail passes from the open slope into the recently burned forest, with dense and tall vegetation, it becomes exceedingly difficult to follow. I was impressed by just how quickly and completely the trail disappeared. I was able to follow stock tracks for a while, but then lost even those in the vegetation. I ended up getting way off the trail, totally turned around, and cut cross-country using map and compass and actually ended up on the Packer's Trail, which I used to connect with the trail to Smooth Ridge/Weller Butte. Embarrassing mistake, but one that was easily made, and I hope this trip report can help others from getting lost up there as well. Be prepared to use map and compass and take it slow up there . . . you will not be able to make "good time" from the top of the slope to the junction with Packer's Trail, at least in my experience. From Packer's Trail junction on, the trail was distinct and absolutely delightful to hike. Wildflowers, views, birdsong . . . hard to beat! Twin Spring was a welcome respite and water refill after the rough morning.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Weller Butte had some great wildflower displays and views and I continued on to Lodgepole Spring, where I got a bit turned around due to the hunting camps, side trails, game trails, etc. but I was able to backtrack, find the trail, and continue on (the trail stays lower in the woods than I expected) toward Oregon Butte, which was my destination for the night.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
The sun was setting as I neared Oregon Butte and the last hour or so of hiking was pure bliss . . . beautiful sunset and views of the landscape and I made it Oregon Butte Lookout just as the stars were coming out. I had brought enough water from Rettkowski Spring to just bivy near the lookout and the stars were incredible. It was a clear, calm night and perfect for sleeping under the stars.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness, Umatilla National Forest, Washington.
The sun came up early (too early for a tired hiker) and I packed up and headed out on Mount Misery Trail to Panjab Trail and out. Few quick additional notes: - Although there were two groups of hikers when I started on Friday, I didn't see them during my trip and only saw two other day hikers on Friday. When I arrived back at the trailhead on Monday, I saw two other groups coming out. During the middle days of my trip I saw no one. - While there doesn't seem to be a huge amount of users, it seems that some of the groups that do camp here leave their mark pretty deeply with litter, building furniture, caching supplies, cutting wood, etc. Definitely seems like Leave No Trace hasn't been adopted by some of the groups yet. I suppose I'm guilty too though as I left behind a small notebook, bandana, and photocopied paper map and guidebook description when I fell in some deadfall while trying to regain the trail near Mud Spring and, unbeknownst to me, the bottom of my cargo pocket was ripped open and its contents disappeared into the vegetation. - Wildflowers, wildflower and wide open spaces are the hallmarks of this trip and are nothing less than superlative in many places. - Do not underestimate the density of vegetation and difficulty of following the trail from above Fairview Bar to the junction with Packer's Trail. I did and paid the price. Perhaps I missed a simple turn and things fell apart from their and better diligence could have prevented my misery, perhaps not. Regardless, this is not an area I would want to find myself unexpectedly benighted in. Maybe with warning other hikers will be better prepared to follow the faint trail -- I sure hope so! - This trail, at this time of year, is absolutely spectacular. Go hike it soon or put it on your calendar for next year!

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Ski
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PostWed Jun 21, 2017 3:28 pm 
up.gif looks SO different when it's all green! wow!

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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texasbb
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Joined: 30 Mar 2009
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texasbb
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PostWed Jun 21, 2017 5:05 pm 
Love it! I did the same loop in 2009 and found it similarly enjoyable. Melton Creek trail is great (and the sign wasn't much clearer back then either). I came up on a small blackie hiking ahead of me; had to finally shoo him off 'cause he was going too slow. smile.gif I still had a bridge over Crooked Creek. I camped right there at the Crooked/Wenaha confluence and saw that night the brightest blazing starry night I've ever seen, and I've seen a few. Smooth Ridge was hard to follow even before the fire, so I can imagine it's challenging now. One difference is I took Turkey Creek trail to rejoin Panjab on the way out. The filthy hunters camps are out of control and have been for years. I should post a photo essay. rant.gif Thanks for sharing and stirring up memories. I love the W-T.

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Pyrites
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PostThu Jun 22, 2017 4:13 pm 
WTA did a BCRT in April this year. They also did a project on the Wilderness in 2016. We logged out Panjab, Turkey, and Rattlesnake to the snow line. We also did a heavy brushing on Panjab, a little tread, as well as some brushing and a little tread on Rattlesnake. I think if snow line had been higher more work would have been focused on Panjab. This is the one the FS cares about most. WTA plans to go back next year.

Keep Calm and Carry On? Heck No. Stay Excited and Get Outside!
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texasbb
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texasbb
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PostThu Jun 22, 2017 7:44 pm 
Pyrites wrote:
We logged out Panjab, Turkey, and Rattlesnake to the snow line. We also did a heavy brushing on Panjab, a little tread, as well as some brushing and a little tread on Rattlesnake. I think if snow line had been higher more work would have been focused on Panjab. This is the one the FS cares about most.
Thanks! And you're right, Panjab is the one that gets all the traffic. It's still quite a mess up near the top, at least it was on Thanksgiving. And Rattlesnake is almost impossible to follow in the burn area west of Red Fir Spring, for anyone who's not familiar with it. But those two trails make for one of the best day-hikable loops in the area, so all logging efforts are greatly appreciated. up.gif Edit: Corrected name of spring.

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markweth
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markweth
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PostFri Jun 23, 2017 12:40 pm 
Pyrites wrote:
WTA did a BCRT in April this year. They also did a project on the Wilderness in 2016. We logged out Panjab, Turkey, and Rattlesnake to the snow line. We also did a heavy brushing on Panjab, a little tread, as well as some brushing and a little tread on Rattlesnake. I think if snow line had been higher more work would have been focused on Panjab. This is the one the FS cares about most. WTA plans to go back next year.
Thanks for the work! Panjab Trail was certainly delightful hiking. Any idea if there are plans to do work on the trail from Fairview Bar to Smooth Ridge? That section was almost impossible to follow after it left the open slopes of the hillside and entered the recently burned forest. The Wenaha River Trail looked like it had recent work done on it between Crooked Creek and Fairview Bar. What a wonderful section of trail, great upstream views and pleasant walking.

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FiresideChats
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PostFri Jun 23, 2017 10:54 pm 
This stirred up a fond memory of a sunset on top of Oregon Butte when I was just starting to explore the wild. I also remember looking south from the Butte into Oregon and all those wild mountains stretched out in a green and purple hue in the evening light. Love that area.

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glenoid
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PostSat Jun 24, 2017 7:40 am 
Nice trip! Didn't you just love the wetter areas and the brush?? If you go back to explore the west side of the Wenaha, you will have clear trails above the river, but once you are down on the Wenaha itself, expect brushwacking. As for Dusty Camp it is used by the guide in this area. (It even exists, because Picket spring is just below the trail and camp.) The camp is cleaner some years then others. Most people do use the Panjab trail in this area. (It should be noted that the guide in this area logs out the Panjab long before Memorial day, and way before the forest service crews ever arrive. Last year's trail work was a easier because of all the work he has done over the years on the Panjab.) I think Squaw springs is a dive. But the water there us easy to get at. Sheephead Corral is dry but cleaner. Had a group of 50 or so cow/calf elk walk through our camp there once. I would also say that about 90% of trail junctions in Wenaha-Tucannon Wilderness are not signed. You are on your own....

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DIYSteve
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DIYSteve
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PostSat Jun 24, 2017 8:37 am 
up.gif Good trip and write up. Such a cool area. W-T WA has some true wilderness and quite different than other WAs in the PNW.

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