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MangyMarmot
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MangyMarmot
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PostSun Jun 25, 2017 2:55 pm 
Chair Peak has been on my list for a while. Fletcher's trip inspired me to give it a go. I chose a less technical route though: The South-East scramble route. The Snow Lake trail to the Source Lake turn off is virtually melted out. There are just a few small snow spots. They won't last long. The Source Lake trail has more snow. The slope above Source Lake is melting out. There is lots of snow, but plenty of melted out patches. Waterfalls are everywhere. Some caution is needed because there are many voids under the snow created by brush and numerous small creeks. Higher up, in the big basin below Chair Peak, the snow is still deep. Beckey lists a number of variations for the South-East scramble route. A photo of the peak is below. The usual route goes up one of the two chimneys in the middle of the photo. Another variation is the snow ramp just to the left of the chimneys. Finally, there is a gully to the right of that. I chose this gully.
Chair Peak form the Thumbtack
Chair Peak form the Thumbtack
The snow gets quite steep right below this gully. I was glad I brought my crampons. The moat at the top is quite formidable, but I found a place to cross it that wasn't bad. When this collapses, the moat will be a challenge. Above the snow, there is a rock step to navigate. The climbing is not hard, there are good hands and feet, but care must be taken as a fall from here would not be good.
Rock Step. I ended up climbing up the left side.
Rock Step. I ended up climbing up the left side.
Above this, the last section of the gully has a large snow patch. I ended up squeezing through the moat between it and the wall. Then I was at the top of the ridge with good views. I dropped down the other side a little ways to some easier scrambling terrain and made my way North toward the summit. Some route finding was necessary to avoid some gullies. After traversing lower down for a ways, the going seems to be easier higher up. There is was one short traverse with some exposure to get into the last notch, but the hands and feet were decent. Then it was just a scramble to the summit. Views were really good. There is a small flat spot which makes a great place to lay down and rest for a while.
Rusty Piton
Rusty Piton
Scrambling toward the summit
Scrambling toward the summit
Melakwa Lakes
Melakwa Lakes
Looking East
Looking East
Snow Lake. Still mostly froze, but the melt has begun.
Snow Lake. Still mostly froze, but the melt has begun.
Price, Big Snow, and Glacier Peak
Price, Big Snow, and Glacier Peak
Kaleetan
Kaleetan
Rainier and the Granites
Rainier and the Granites
After some time enjoying the view, it was time to head back. From the last notch, I could see a batter traverse a bit higher up that the one I used on the way to the summit. It's still exposed, but the holds are better. It's not visible coming from the other direction. I rapped the left gully that I climbed up. It seemed safer that downclimbing the rock step. There was a rap station with some old rusty pitons. Then down the snow and back to Source Lake.
Waterfalls everywhere around Source Lake
Waterfalls everywhere around Source Lake
Until then, I had only seen one party all day, and that was at a great distance. As soon as I reached the Snow Lake trail, there were people everywhere. Vast majority completely unprepared for snow in their sneakers, carrying no gear. I made my way through the crowds back to the Snow Lake trailhead and headed home. Useful gear: Ice Axe, Crampons, Rope, Harness and ATC to rap the gully. Few slings if you need to build an anchor.

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Randito
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Randito
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PostSun Jun 25, 2017 4:43 pm 
MangyMarmot wrote:
Chair Peak form the Thumbtack
Chair Peak form the Thumbtack
Very nice trip and TR. FWIW: I think Becky refers to the location from where you took the above photo as "The Footstool" with "Thumbtack" being the spire between the two snow gullies.

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Fletcher
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PostSun Jun 25, 2017 11:16 pm 
Awesome Dave. Less technical maybe, but your route looks a lot trickier, pretty sweet! I bet you logged a quick round trip time.

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ScottP
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PostMon Jun 26, 2017 6:24 am 
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPBkxRFHwH2nIGHaKkZd8_hqwvqsZyQCREamFU- From CAG Columbia River to Stevens Pass, 2nd Edition

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