Forum Index > Trip Reports > From Russia, with Love (Elbrus)
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Snowdog
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Snowdog
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 3:03 pm 
I've been home a couple of weeks, so felt it was time I put up a report. I recently traveled to Russia to visit St. Petersburg, Moscow & attempt Mt. Elbrus, the highest point in Europe. From Wikipedia: Mt. Elbrus is the highest mountain in Russia and in Europe, and the tenth most prominent peak in the world. A dormant volcano, Elbrus is in the Caucasus Mountains in Southern Russia, near the border with Georgia. *I had trouble with Flickr writing this- so pics are not labeled individually, just Album name- sorry.* My trip began with arrival in St. Petersburg. At welcome dinner I met my climbing partners & guides. The group included several fellas from Canada, an Italian, a Serbian, and Americans from Texas, Colorado, & east coast. Some were on a 7 Summit quest- one had done Everest already. My guides were Vern & Carole Tejas- who are legends in the guiding & climbing world. Vern is coming out with a book in August called Seventy Summits. I felt privileged and honored to be climbing with them. borank.gif They were personable & so knowledgable about the region. They also love guiding & helping people reach their goals, and it shows. We spent the first few days touristing around. A visit to The Hermitage provided 'overstimulation' due to viewing priceless works of art for hours & hours. We also visited the Peter & Paul Fortress, with tombs of Tzars Nicholas & family.
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After St. Petersburg, we flew to Mineral Vody. Flying domestically in Russia was challenging. Trying to figure out what gate we were to go to was, um, confusing.
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In the airport, I saw interesting things- a Putin calendar
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And chips in flavors never before seen!
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Flight was delayed several hours, then had long, scary drive up Baksam valley to our hut in Terskol.
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The driver spoke no English, and was speeding so much & passing recklessly, all while a Russian Bollywood movie was playing overhead. We were all terrified. eek.gif We finally resorted to Google translate to ask him to slow down. He did- somewhat. The next days were acclimation hikes near the Georgia border.
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This was an interesting way to slow down an avalanche!
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After a few days in the valley, we ascended to our "pods" or barrels at about 12.700'.
photo 4
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photo 1
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We would spend the next several days here, doing further acclimation hikes, self-arrest practice, etc.
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The self arrest day was exhausting because we did every position over & over- for hours. "Falling" and then hiking back up the 50-60' over & over- at 13K. Finally it was summit day- we left the pods at about 3am. It was bitterly cold with high winds. I had on: thick wool base layers, a light puffy, a hard shell, a wool hat, two hoods, THEN a BIG puffy over all that, with hood up. Face mask, googles , 8000 meter mittens with hand warmers. Double boots with toe warmers.
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And finally, after many hours of climbing, some on fixed lines, we summited. Most made it. cool.gif
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Some had a sense of humor, even at this altitude.
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We had 3 physicians on the trip one of which did the Docs without Borders. After summit day we descended back to Terskol. The next day we went to a "fishing cafe" where one catches your lunch! Super fun!
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Then it was back down the twisty road to fly to Moscow. We spent a few days here as well. It was quite cosmopolitan- and huge- over 14 million people. Visited the Kremlin, Red Square, and many other sites. Then an insanely early departure- 2am! for a 6am flight. Moscow has worse traffic woes than we do! This was a really enjoyable trip both culturally and for the adventure. I enjoyed Russia- it's people, it's history and especially the Baksam valley- so unspoiled.

'we don't have time for a shortcut'
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RichP
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 3:29 pm 
Congratulations! You do the coolest stuff.

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BarbE
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BarbE
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 3:37 pm 
Snowdog wrote:
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Not a bit surprised you'd be leading the pack biggrin.gif Awesome trip and pictures! Congrats on tagging another of the Seven Summits. up.gif

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Distel32
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Distel32
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 5:14 pm 
up.gif

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zephyr
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zephyr
aka friendly hiker
PostThu Jul 27, 2017 5:40 pm 
Snowdog wrote:
And finally, after many hours of climbing, some on fixed lines, we summited. Most made it. cool.gif
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Wow! Just wow. The places you go. Congratulations! ~z

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Waterman
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 5:53 pm 
"The hermitage provided over stimulation" The Jordan staircase blew my mind walking in. So much great art. Counted 27 Rembrandts in one room alone. Wonderful country to visit.

Two roads diverged in a wood, and I,I took the one less traveled by. And that has made all the difference. Robert Frost
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dicey
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dicey
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 6:22 pm 
Nice!! I really like the blowing snow backlit climbers photo cool.gif

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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mbravenboer
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 7:40 pm 
Looks great! Very interesting trip. Glad you had such a good time. I guess winter trips here will now be mild compared to that cold summit day!

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Zloi
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Zloi
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 8:17 pm 
Congrats on a challenging summit! Can you clarify what your summit date was and who your summit mates were? Was this a paid-guide climb? (You can PM me if you don't want this conversation public.) Thank you.

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geyer
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geyer
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 8:43 pm 
Snowdog wrote:
Elbrus
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Elbrus
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EPIC

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Gimpilator
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Gimpilator
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 9:10 pm 
Wonderful! up.gif I might have some questions for you after I return home from my current trip, if you're open to that. Hope to get there sometime in the next few years.

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Chico
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 9:41 pm 
Snowdog wrote:
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That is so funny.

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Matt
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Matt
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PostThu Jul 27, 2017 11:53 pm 
Great trip and photos. How was the beer in Russia?

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Jim Dockery
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PostFri Jul 28, 2017 6:29 am 
Great TR, congrats on Elbrus. I too loved traveling in the old USSR when I was there many years ago. up.gif up.gif

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostFri Jul 28, 2017 7:43 am 
wow. that is so awesome for you! congrats on having a great time! I still can't believe the Alaskan legend Vern Tejas is still guiding--wowza.

Art is an adventure.
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