[jbaillie]

Ptarmigan Traverse 2017 We hadn’t done the trip since 1997 so when some friends at a Christmas dinner suggested it, we said sure. I was to be my sixth complete traverse. On Thursday after work we stashed two cars at the Downey Creek Trailhead to alleviate the driving on Saturday, the first day of the Traverse. We rented a large Enterprise van, picked folks up and drove straight to the trailhead arriving at 8am. A grade school chum came along just to drive the van back home, thanks David.

Jerry, Kathy, Cathy, Morten, David & Rich at Cascade Pass Trailhead

Saturday was cool and clouds obscured the peaks around Cascade Pass. The large packs slowed our group of five walking to the pass in ~2 hours.

Rich, Kathy, Cathy, Morten & Jerry at Cascade Pass

Many of the tourists at the pass would have followed us south from the pass had we not strongly discouraged the these tennis shoe clad folks. The path from Cascade Pass across the lower slopes of Mixup Peak to Cache Glacier at ~6500 ft is excellent. A few short frozen snow patches and a couple of gnarly dirt spots were quickly traversed.

Cathy - Focused steep dirt

The Cache Glacier and the exit to Cache Col were easy.

~6500 ft point just before the Cache Glacier

Gunsight notch looked ugly.

Gunsight Notch on Right from Cache Glacier

The path down and across to Kool Aide Lake was easy to follow with a few typical dirty descents.

First views of Kool Aide Lake from near Cache Col

The clouds obscured the peaks, but not the smiles as Kathy enjoyed a rest at Kool Aide Lake.

Kathy enjoying a break at Camp

Sunday we discussed climbing Magic & Hurry-Up but the clouds were stubborn and it wasn’t until about 1pm that a few of us headed up to the saddle between those two peaks. Easy terrain brought us to the saddle and an easy to follow boot path up the heather lead towards Magic.

Initial slopes up Magic from Saddle

The heather is rather steep and one fellow decided not to continue, unfortunately he had the rope.

Initial slopes up Magic from Saddle

The rest of us were scrambling upward, staying on the west side of the crest until we came to a chasm with the summit of Magic beyond. We scrambled down some choss, but wanted the rope to continue so we were thwarted in our attempt. Dejectedly, we scrambled back down to camp for dinner around 6pm

Kathy, Jerry & Rich at Kool Aide Lake

We were also expected another member of the trip to arrive late from a weekend of rock climbing in Squamish. He showed up at midnight! We also had a family of goats stop by for a visit.

Welcoming committee at Kool Aide Lake

As an aside, two young women arrived in camp around dinner time with the objective of climbing Magic & HurryUp that evening followed by the north face of Formidable and a scramble of Spider on Monday! A tired young man showed up about 30 minutes later and joined them. He was the leader. Monday, morning in bright sunshine we broke camp at 10am to allow our late arrival a chance to recover.

Cathy at Kool Aide Lake

A short walk took us to the always present small snowfield just prior to the infamous “Red Ledge”. The young threesome were sitting there looking rather forlorn. One of them had been across the snow and decided the exit to the Red Ledge was impassable without “two tools”. I put on my crampons and headed across the snow, stepped onto some dirty rock/moat junk and scrambled behind a big snow block to the “Red Ledge”.

Entrance to moat allowing access to Red Ledge from behind the snow

Then dropped my pack, returned and shepherded everyone across.

Upper portions of Red Ledge

After the youngsters and our group had crossed without incident or rope I believe they thought it was easier than it initially appeared. It was the easiest crossing I can remember because the show field brought one to the level of the Red Ledge (with a bit moat traversing). Later in the year, one often must climb up a very dirty gully to reach the ledge. I’ve hauled packs and belay many folks at this spot over the years. Quickly we arrived at what I call "picture point" where the view of the N. Face of Formidable is overwhelming.

"Picture Point" beyond the Red Ledge

Trail just above the Red Ledge

Slopes beyond the "Red Ledge"

Traversing to Middle Cascade Glacier

After the Red Ledge we continued along the gentle terrain to the base of the talus slope on the near edge of the upper Middle Cascade Glacier.

Upper Middle Cascade Glacier

The talus has a bit of a path in it and the glacier was easily ascended to the Spider-Formidable Col. Surprisingly the snow was not continuous though the col, but rather about 50 ft of dirt & talus leading onto the southerly snow field.

Kathy investigating the Formidable Spider Col

Jerry in Formidable Spider Col

Looking down the south side of the Formidable Spider Col

Cathy pointing precisely at the southerly decent chute from Formidable Spider Col.

Where the snowfield widens, it also steepened enough that some folks wanted a hand line with prussik. 90 meters of rope got every one down onto the slabs below for a nice break in the sun at 3pm. We spread out as we traversed around the hillside and down to Yang Yang Lakes for a beautiful, but buggy camp.

Climbers one the traverse from bottom of chute below Formidable Spider Col

First View of Yang Yang Lakes from Traverse from Chute below Formidable Spider Col

Tuesday was once again bright sunshine, but due to sinus infections and a general mailase we laid around the lakes all day. What a wonderful day. Here are some pic's from the lake.

Yang Yang Lakes with Formidable

Yang Yang Lakes

Yang Yang Lakes

Resident of Yang Yang Lakes

Wednesday we broke camp at 8am in bright sunshine. The path directly up to the ridge at ~6500 feet SW of the lakes went quickly.

Snow patch south of Yang Yang Lakes. Boot path climbs up to high snow patches where it traverses left on steep heather/rock rib to gain the skyline in upper LH corner of image.

It’s much improved from my past recollections. We ascended to about 7000 feet on Le Conte Mtn.

Meadowed Ridge north of Le Conte Mtn

Rich below Le Conte Mtn

At this point we split our group into a pair that wanted to climb Old Guard & Sinister and the remainder that just want to do the traverse.

Slope approaching Le Conte Glacier from north.

Le Conte Glacier

The pair made short work of the traverse to and assent of the Le Conte Glacier where they dropped packs at ~7400 ft. The rest of us plodded on and waited for them a the broad saddle north of Sentinel Peak. We only beat them to the saddle by about 15 minutes, despite their detour to the summit of Old Guard!

Kathy and Chris on summit of Old Guard Peak

After a long water break we quickly traversed around the west side of Sentinel at about the 7200 ft level.

Kathy returning (with Chris) from Old Guard

Again the pair dropped packs and scrambled Sentinel Peak from the south. Some creative scrambling led to the good ledge

Easy portions of the ramp on the southerly route up Sentinel Peak

which they followed to the summit and back.

Kathy enjoying a rest on the summit of Sentinel Peak

Unfortunately, descending their assent route was not a good option at the moat. They eventually traversed a steep detached snow block on rappel to arrive at easier ground.

Sentinel Peak - South Route - Go left from the two small triangular snow patches

Crossing the head of the S. Cascade Glacier

Leaving the S. Cascade Glacier

Firm snow meant a few belays descending to White Rock Lakes

Interestingly, two climbers came through later in the day and followed route including using the rappel sling they left (Jason & Allen). And then two days later the moat had opened enough to allow passage of a third group who scrambled the peak and retrieved the sling! Thank you Greg, Signe & Carter. Meanwhile the rest of the group descended the steep snow and talus to White Rock Lakes for a great camp.

Descent slope from S. Cascade Glacier to White Rock Lakes

Just before sunset Jason and Allen arrived at the lakes. Thursday was still bright sunshine. Very peaceful time in a spectacular setting. My mind and body was replenished that day. The marmots were plentiful and daring.

Day off at White Rock Lakes - Note: Sleeping Bags help keep the tent cool

Guard duty

Cathy spent the day sketching

Chris - Not in Michigan

Boealps at White Rock Lakes - Kathy, Jerry, Chris, Rich, Cathy & Morten (L>R)

Gunsight Peak from White Rock Lakes

Rich with a wildlife stare down

Friday, we broke camp at 8am in bright sunshine (very repetitive). What was initially a good boot path leading south disappeared as we traversed to the Dana Glacier. It took 3+ hours for us to reach the glacier!

Northern most toe of the Dana Glacier

Looking back at White Rock Lakes basin from traverse to Dana Glacier

Not sure why so slow. The far western lobe of the glacier has greatly receded compared to my recollections of the 1980’s. We finally reached to ~7800 ft crossing just east of Spire Point around 3pm. Three of us headed up to climb while the others began the descent to camp on Itswoot Ridge.

Cathy & Kathy high on the Chickamin Glacier

Notch in Ridge just east of Spire Pt

The climb description in Beckey left a blank portion. “then a short lead (class 4) that is mainly a 60-ft section in a trough on the left of the two obvious troughs.”

1st Pitch on Spire Pt - Left Hand Gully

Fred Beckey. Cascade Alpine Guide Volume 2. page 843. This went OK, but it puts one about 50 below and 50 east of the large horn with it’s mass of rappel slings. An airy traverse with minimal pro led to this horn. (The entire rack consisted of 4 small stoppers and two hexes). The final pitch “A 50-ft climb (over a few large blocks) leads to the summit” Fred Beckey Cascade Alpine Guide Volume 2 page 843.

Leading summit pitch on Spire Point

While we descended I attempted to determine where I had gone wrong on the first lead, but have concluded that the description misses the airy low 5th class rightward rising traverse. Three quick single rope rappels brought us off the peak. We quickly romped to our packs and descended to a welcome camp, where a prime campsite with filtered water was waiting.

Lower Itswoot Ridge

Kathy & Jerry in Itswoot Ridge

Saturday was still bright sunshine. A pair headed off to Dome Peak at 6am while the rest of us slept in and finally broke camp around noon!

Chris in the morning before Dome Peak Climb

We followed the boot path to Cub Lake, up and over the pass to upper Bachelor Creek and made camp around 4pm at ~5300 ft. The pair on Dome made quick work of the traverse to the Dome Glacier.

High pass from Dome to Chickamin Glaciers very near summit of Dome Peak

They reached to summit rock about noon and were back in camp around 4pm.

Morten near the Summit

Summit Rock of Dome Peak

Chris high Chickamin Glacier

Then they picked up there gear and walked to our camp arriving around 7pm, whooped tired and beat.

Looking up Itswoot Ridge toward Spire Pt (Left)

Sunday was still in bright sunshine. We broke camp by 8am and headed down.

Rich

A good boot path exists and was generally followed, except for the tree fall all the way to Downey Creek. Sections of the path were overgrown, but always there.

On Trail - Bachelor Creek

Just be patient. There were good logs across Bachelor creek at ~4000 ft

Crossing Bachelor Creek ~4100 ft on the Trail

for the crossing from SW to NE and then another near the junction of Downey creek for the NE to SE crossing.

Cathy has said she like the brush!

The ~7 miles out along Downey Creek was long and tiring.

Bachelor Creek

But the trail is in good shape, except for some downed trees. The last of our group arrived at the car a 7pm. The beer that was prepositioned in the Suiattle River was good and cold (Vitamin R, aka Rainier Beer). A very good trip, with good friends. Kathy, Chris, Rich, Morten, Cathy and the author Jerry. PS: The gear required serious cleanup.

Kathy cleaning up after the trip! Note: her backpack went into the washing machine!

[ree]

What a wonderful trip! Impressive!

[raising3hikers]

[ash789]

Glad you had a great trip!

[Frodo Barefoot]

[RichP]

Looks like a great group.

[Porkrind]

Great pics, I'd love to do that some day.

[BarbE]

Wow, your sixth complete traverse! I would consider myself lucky to do it once! Great trip descriptions and pictures. Thanks for posting!

[puzzlr]

Incredible photos, and a good selection for all the key places along this classic route. Congrats on another completion. Once was enough for me, but I'll never forget it.

[Distel32]

[Routes]

Great trip and pictures! I'm BoeAlps basic class of 2008. Cool to see some familiar faces from that time.

[pula58]

I did the PT in 1993, my first summer living in WA. I had just taken the Mountaineers Basic Climbing course. The Suiattle River road had some wash-out troubles back then (as it did in the last 10 years as well). So, when we did the trip it was the first year you could get in there for quite some time. The Bachelor Creek trail was hellish (as I recall) Devils club, swampy, going around in circles! We had rainy weather..I would like to do it again, with sunshine this time! Your photos have got me thinking!

[silence]

Dream trip ... great TR and pix ... thx!

[DIYSteve]