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Gimpilator
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Location: Edmonds, WA
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PostFri Mar 16, 2018 7:22 pm 
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Music video link

I met up with James Barlow from WA, Laura Newman from CA, and Sam Hahn from the east coast.  Our mission was to climb New York Mountain, one of the harder ones in the Mojave.  It’s not a long route when accessed from the east, but there are route finding difficulties and the scramble to the summit is supposed to be tough.  Many parties use a rope and descriptions usually mention some class 4.

My main concern was the snow which had been forecast to fall the previous day.  My last trip with James in WA (Spire Mountain) started the exact same way, tough peak, tough exposed scramble, snow the day before, and ultimately a failed attempt.  It seems to be turning into a pattern for us.

mining history
mining history

We met at the turn-off at 7am and carpooled in my Subaru to the end of the road in Keystone Canyon.  We followed the wash and old road up, making one error along the way.  Laura was separated from the group in the process, but we regrouped on the northeast ridge crest.

crags further to the northeast
crags further to the northeast

Snow started around 6500 feet and remained dry powder anywhere fully shaded.  The northeast ridge was craggy and we scrambled a bit.  Eventually we came to the northeast peak which is about 200 feet lower than the main peak.  Some parties opt to stop here and the guidebook mentions that.

main summit from northeast peak
main summit from northeast peak

We continued along the ridge to the jumbled granite boulder pile which makes up the summit.  Lots of vertical faces showing throughout the pile.  My fears were now confirmed.  The rocks were covered in fresh snow and our route was mostly north facing.  Our chances of success were much lower and chances of an accident occurring much higher.  I told Laura that if there was much ice present, I was going to bail.

lower corridor
lower corridor

We at first started too far left (east), but then found the correct beginning of the route marked by a couple of cairns.  It began in a corridor of granite.  There was a little bit of ice on the rocks, but with care it could be avoided.  At first the scrambling was easy and we went slowly, being methodical on the fresh snow.  Then we came to a few tricky section, one with exposure.  The wind was blowing hard and it was damn cold.

James was leading at this point and he helped pull me up the second crux move.  I couldn’t confidently do the stemming move when the foot placements were covered in snow.  After the second crux move there was some easier scrambling and we were close to the summit.  James scrambled up a false summit to get a better look and I continued past the summit in a narrow squeeze corridor of granite.  Getting out the far side was too narrow and required stemming up and then down.  Directly above this corridor was one possible way to climb to the top, but it looked technical and badly exposed.

James stemming the upper corridor
James stemming the upper corridor
too narrow at the bottom for a human body
too narrow at the bottom for a human body

I was searching for something easier.  And I found it!  Beyond the corridor was an easy looking class 3 or 4 route and it was mostly snow free.  I called back to James and he came over to check it out.  At this point we all put our harnesses on.  I belayed James with the rope I carried and he scrambled up and slung one boulder along the way.  He set up a top anchor.  While he was doing that I scrambled up and past him and then he belayed Sam up.  Laura also scrambled up without the rope.


Another rock across to the south was nearly the same height so we all scrambled down into a gap and then up to that one.  Afterward we returned to the one with the register and signed in.  New York is my 85th DPS peak and 299th P2k.  smile.gif

register summit as viewed from the southern rock
register summit as viewed from the southern rock
New York summit
New York summit

None of us had brought our packs up, and we were hungry, so it was time to go.  I scrambled down to do fireman’s belay for Sam and Laura while they rappelled and then James cleaned the top anchor and brought the rope down.

Laura and I were the first down from the summit so we searched around for any way to bypass the crux areas, but nothing looked like it would end well.  For the exposed crux I set up a long sling as a hand line.  I was happy when we were all done with the snowy scramble and exposure.

last look
last look

James had an idea for an alternate descent over the top of Peak 6512, and then down a mining road, so we did that.  I was very surprised to see that the Gordon/Barbara register on that peak was loaded with names.  This obscure bump sees a lot of action.  Admittedly it has an excellent view of New York.

New York from Peak 6512
New York from Peak 6512

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https://www.youtube.com/c/Zogador
http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=25744
http://www.peakbagger.com/climber/ClimbListC.aspx?cid=2650&sort=elevft&u=ft&j=-1&y=9999

Keep climbing mountains and don't slip!
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boot up
Old Not Bold Hiker



Joined: 12 Dec 2006
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Location: Bend Oregon
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PostSat Mar 17, 2018 8:23 am 
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It doesn't look at all like I remember New York.....

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friluftsliv
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wildernessed
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Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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PostSat Mar 17, 2018 11:48 am 
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up.gif The natural New York appears more pleasing.

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Living in the Anthropocene
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boot up
Old Not Bold Hiker



Joined: 12 Dec 2006
Posts: 4745 | TRs
Location: Bend Oregon
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Old Not Bold Hiker
PostSat Mar 17, 2018 11:58 am 
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wildernessed wrote:
up.gif The natural New York appears more pleasing.

up.gif  up.gif

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friluftsliv
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Get Out and Go
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Location: Leavenworth
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PostSat Mar 17, 2018 3:00 pm 
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Oh...different New York, though I do like the other one.  Will be there for a couple weeks this summer for the third time in the last five years.  You're knocking them off down there, Gimpilator.  up.gif
The Other New York
The Other New York

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"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
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awilsondc
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PostSat Mar 17, 2018 3:01 pm 
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I agree with the others.  I'd much rather visit this New York than the other.  Glad you made it up despite the snow!  Looks like another nice day in the desert!  At least there were no gunshots on this one.   shakehead.gif
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whitebark
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PostSat Mar 17, 2018 6:45 pm 
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The New York Mountains are an interesting botanical island with a relatively moist climate - thanks for the report. Supposedly there is a small grove of white fir growing there, a remnant of a former widespread forest left over from the ice age.
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chemicalman
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Joined: 04 Jan 2018
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chemicalman
PostWed Mar 21, 2018 10:48 am 
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Congrats on the summit guys! I loved that peak and your report brought back my own memories of it. Gimpilator, you are closing in on the DPs fast!
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John Morrow
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PostWed Mar 21, 2018 2:09 pm 
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Love the panoramic!  The Lanfair Valley is a massive flat!  To think there's an indian trail across it.  The Hackberry Fire perimeter really stands out to the sw.  So much to inspire and explore!
Thanks.  I have this lunatic idea of a loop crossing the Lanfair Valley and doing the big horseshoe of the NY Mtns/Castle Peaks/Hart Range/Piute Range over like ten days.  Since my car can't access much anyway.  I think there's water in springs every 10 to 15 miles.

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“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver

“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.”
― MLK Jr.
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