Forum Index > Trail Talk > Early season summits in the olympics
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murrbn
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murrbn
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PostThu Apr 19, 2018 9:19 pm 
Are there any summits in the Olympics that are better off climbed during the early season while still covered in snow? ie. hood with less chance of falling rock or st helens with less ash dust in the air

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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostThu Apr 19, 2018 9:29 pm 
Lots, Eleanor and Washington, Brotheres, Deception, Angeles, anything in the central core if you could get to them. The above are all choss piles in late season. You have to wait long enough to avoid any danger.

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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murrbn
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PostThu Apr 19, 2018 9:39 pm 
Have you ever done the Washington to Ellinor traverse early season? I've done ellinor a few times in the winter but have not tried Washington yet. Edit: Just found some awesome beta on the traverse in winter on cc

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meck
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PostFri Apr 20, 2018 3:13 pm 
murrbn: I've done that traverse (the lower one, NOT the knife edge rock climb) in the summer several times. I seem to recall that just getting up Washington requires going up an avalanche slope in two spots (with obvious avy damage to the trees), not sure I'd recommend it until the snow consolidates(?) more. The traverse was fun though...

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostFri Apr 20, 2018 4:35 pm 
I have done it in late spring when there was snow but well consolidated snow with crampons. We carried a rope but did not use it except for a chute on the return to Eleanor. It was a fun trip and not difficult. As above we did not do the direct south ridge up Washington but circled around to the gentler north side.

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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reststep
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reststep
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PostFri Apr 20, 2018 8:30 pm 
If you want to avoid some brush crashing Pershing might be a good one to do when there is still snow around.

"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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gb
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gb
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PostSat Apr 21, 2018 6:28 am 
meck wrote:
murrbn: I've done that traverse (the lower one, NOT the knife edge rock climb) in the summer several times. I seem to recall that just getting up Washington requires going up an avalanche slope in two spots (with obvious avy damage to the trees), not sure I'd recommend it until the snow consolidates(?) more. The traverse was fun though...
I, too, had the opinion that the OP may not be considering avalanche hazard in the equation. Climbing peaks with snow is helpful but the snowpack does not usually become consolidated until early to mid-to June to the point where avalanche hazard is not generally a concern. Unless the OP is avalanche savvy and pays attention to conditions he or she should not climb snow routes in the mountains, especially the higher ones, until consolidation occurs.

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silence
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silence
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PostFri Apr 27, 2018 12:14 pm 
Early season meaning June/July? Then Deception (when avy conditions are safer) and Brothers for sure. Steel, Anderson, Christie, and of course Mount Olympus. Olympus in July
Last Light on Olympus
Last Light on Olympus
Christie in August ... so get up there earlier. See AA's report https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7992880&highlight=christie
Mount Christie at Daybreak
Mount Christie at Daybreak
Deception in early June
Upper Royal Basin
Upper Royal Basin
Steel in early July
Mt Steel (aka The Wave)
Mt Steel (aka The Wave)

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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geyer
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geyer
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PostFri Apr 27, 2018 12:35 pm 
I've been wanting to get back up on Gray Wolf Ridge while there is still snow . the ascent to the ridge seems fairly safe if you consult a map beforehand and you can take that ridge for miles before hitting anything technically challenging. Also the TH is accessible at this time of year I believe.

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Jake Robinson
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PostFri Apr 27, 2018 7:32 pm 
I did Mt. Mystery last September and it was horrible. I've heard it's a pleasant easy snow climb in spring conditions.

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Hutch
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Hutch
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PostSat May 05, 2018 12:28 am 
Anyone been up Townsend recently? How is it in spring?

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meck
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meck
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PostSat May 05, 2018 6:00 am 
A couple of recent Townsend TRs over in trip reports here and here

*Just say NO to Rent-Seeking, don't give up the concept of "ownership"*
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