[Gimpilator]

April 3, 2018 Mormon Peak - 7414’ It wasn’t something planned, but this was the beginning of a 17 day peakbagging binge. It started with fellow cohort Greg Gerlach. We used his truck to cross the Meadow Valley creek. The standard approach for Mormon comes in from the southwest. The road is in fine condition until the washout at 4240 feet. In hindsight, my Subaru could have crossed the creek.

west ridge above

In the back of my mind, I remembered reading something about ticks, during the initial research several years prior. I tucked the bottom of my pant legs in and Greg did the same. It was a good thing we did that because over the next two days, I counted 10 leg crawlers on myself and 3 on Greg. Most of them were on this peak. It’s the most ticks I’ve ever seen.

There’s not a lot to this route. Just make sure you follow the correct wash at each junction. We walked the old road and I made one error which was corrected by traversing. Once upon the upper west ridge, we really enjoyed it. The views are good and there are narrow sections of limestone with some exposure. A rock step requires brief class 3.

survey tripod

At the summit there are two fallen USGS survey tripods, surprisingly well preserved considering they are 84 years old. I was especially taken with Peak 6365. If I ever return to the area, I will climb that one, however there are a number of others in the range which also deserve attention. Back near the truck I noticed a large agave roasting pit.

Mormon summit

class 3 crux

April 4 Big Arrow – 5226’ I have sort of been saving this one to do with John Morrow. Greg and I had talked about doing Mount Bangs next, however the drive was too long and he had to get back to CA, so the highpoint of the Arrow Range was the next logical choice. As mentioned previously, we got some ticks on the route.

fossil

We ascended the western canyon to the saddle between Big Arrow and South Arrow Peak. There were a few minor dryfalls. We made an ascending traverse on the eastern slope of the south ridge. For the last 500 feet we ascended a chossy southern gully which wasn’t all that pleasant. It’s a nice route except for this gully.

South Arrow

traverse

There are a number of other nice looking peaks in this range and you could easily spend an entire day and sweep them all up. If not for the ticks, it would be worth returning for Broken Arrow, South Arrow and some others. Perhaps it’s worth a shot in the dead of winter.

final summit plateau

Broken Arrow

Arrow Peak

minor dryfall

April 5 Mount Golden Eagle - 3704’ My car was in the shop so I only had a few hours for minor peaklets. I was wondering if this one could be done only class 2. Went up the southeast gully and traversed to the summit. A tad of class 3 at the end. There's another summit to the north which I visited afterward. Also some views of the next-up peaklet nearby.

summit

main summit from north summit

Lone Mountain – 3342’ This one gets a lot of love. Well worn trails and lots of people despite the heat. I went up the north ridge. Bolt anchors near the summit are indicators of some climbing routes on the east face. Interesting.

north ridge

summit

developement

Pinnacle – 2000’ The main draw to this area was recon for Red Needle which is an amazing land feature only 20 minutes drive from my house. It took about an hour of studying satellite maps to figure out the access, but I have driven to the base of it several times now. Pinnacle is exposed class 3, but Red Needle is 5th class aid climbing. The guide book describes the use of a metal extension ladder, but examining the east side, I suspect it could be protected traditionally, at least for the first half.

Red Needle

potential eastern climbing route

After scoping out Red Needle, I descended to the wash between it and Pinnacle. Class 2 on the northeast ridge and then class 3 with exposure and rubble on the east face and upper ridge. I had hoped to find a register signed by Tracy Foutz who has climbed virtually everything in the area, but there was none. I sent him a message from the summit and he responded that it had been 10 years since the last time and he didn’t recall one either.

Pinnacle

looking back at Red Needle

east face

came up this rubble

class 3 above

decent views

Red Fox

Muddies

April 6 Sloan Peak – 3889’ This Sloan is much easier than the one in WA. I drove to the base of the furthest northeast ridge and went up that way. I didn't bring a backpack and thus forgot my camera. The summit ridge is crescent shaped and the highest point is not where the map indicates. Rather it’s the southwest point. Little Devil Peak – 5594’ I parked at 3720 feet north of the peak, so as to access Singer Wash on foot. I left the main wash at 3880 feet and turned south, aiming for the saddle east of the peak. Before the actual saddle, I turned upslope to gain the east ridge.

Little Devil

This ridge is limestone with a few rock steps. I did some class 3, but much of it can be avoided. It was nice to look over at Devil Peak where Bryan and I had been not long ago.

east ridge

Devil

Mesquite Lake

Bird Spring Range Highpoint – 5695’ There is a road to the summit, but it would be foolish to try it, even in a jeep. Don’t make the same mistake I made by following Google Maps driving directions. I found myself headed north on some kind of pipeline road, crossing numerous washes, and certainly it would be impossible for my car to return the way I came in. I can’t stress enough how bad the roads are along the west side of this range.

I parked at 4640 feet and hurried on foot up the access road to the summit. I had to run down parts of the road despite the heat, because I had to meet Jodie Schraven soon and make the long drive to Utah.

Clark

Potosi

La Madre

West Mountain Peak – 7680’ In Jodie’s jeep we were able to drive near the summit of this peak, but she has ERP exposed-road-phobia so we walked the last half mile.

April 7 Navajo Mountain – 10,346’ Another really bad road. If you drive a Subaru, just forget it. Jodie was nervous about this road, but also determined. It was her second to last peak on the DPS, so she had to get it. She called the Navajos before the trip and offered to buy a permit, but apparently policies have changed because they told her that no permit is necessary, and that everyone is welcome.

Navajo

We drove through some patches of snow and then above 10,000 feet it was mostly continuous snow. We hike the last mile to the summit. Jodie has just one DPS left now which is Ruby Dome.

Navajo summit

On the way back to Vegas I drove through a wicked lightning storm and deluge of rain. Jodie shot video of the storm and caught some of the lightning. Continuous peakbagging continues here.

[John Morrow]

Oh well, You did an admirable job of holding off, while I headed for the CO Plateau instead. You left a number of points in the range to return for, so maybe they'll be on your radar in Nov! Looks like you've established yourself quite well with the locals. I think I see a bunch of their stuff on Peakbagger John

[Eric Hansen]

Thanks for the great TR's. re Navajo Mt. Been up it maybe 4 times, all ski/hike combos in April except one at Christmas. The road from the south gets you to the top but I'd suggest the route up from Rainbow Bridge, thru the canyons and ascending the west ridge. Fabulous views. Tour boat to Rainbow Bridge. Good karma to check in with the chapter house. Alternatively, there was a hogan on the south side (near the air strip) we'd visit with, ask permission to leave our vehicle with.

[RichP]