[BeardoMcGrath]

After reading up on some intriguing adventures along the upper Suiattle River (see Upper Suiattle River to Chocolate Creek and Upper Suiattle to Dusty Creek) I decided to make use of the excellent weather last weekend and see how far into the infrequently-traveled NE side of Glacier Peak I could get. I arrived at the Suiattle River trailhead around Noon on Saturday, after slowly driving along the very potholed Suiattle River Road. I had done two daytrips previously on this trail, but during December and April so this was my first good weather outing in the valley. I approached the well-reported landslide around 12:45; passing through this is tricky with an overnight pack and requires climbing under fallen trees in some dirt and mud. I saw some WTA trail maintenance gear nearby but clearing this looks like it will be a lot of work. The fallen cedars made for a very fragrant experience though.

Looking upvalley

Looking downvalley. The hardest part is squirming under the trees here with a big pack

After doing an overnight up Thunder Creek in NCNP last May, I've come to really enjoy hiking up wet side valleys this time of year, as everything is very green and all the creeks and rivers are raging. All the creeks draining Sulphur Mountain were pretty high which was an omen for things farther up the valley. I saw no campers until the Canyon Creek Bridge just before 3. This was as far as I had made it during my last daytrip so beyond was new territory. At the PCT Suiattle crossing there were 3 or 4 tents, and this honestly looked like a nicer spot to camp than at Canyon Creek.

Looking upstream at the PCT Bridge

This was the last spot I saw anyone, now hiking along in the pleasantly shaded south side of the river. Upon reaching Dolly Creek it was apparent the usual rock hopping option wasn't going to work out, so I headed downstream a bit and found a log to shimmy across (the first of many on this trip).

Dolly Creek at high water

Log crossing

Those familiar with the section from Dolly to Vista Creek likely appreciate the grove of huge cedars along the way, it was nice to see that area was spared from whatever fire burned up a lot of the other old growth in the valley.

Upon arriving at Vista Creek the "Upper Suiattle Trail" was well signed, and I came across an old note reminding people from last summer that if it hasn't rained in 2 months it's probably a bad idea to have a campfire.

With Vista Creek running high I was glad to find another crossing log, although it was narrower and more slippery than the last one. The old bridge is still sitting on the other side of the creek.

Log crossing, with old bridge behind

From here the going was a bit slower, with some snow on the trail as well as deadfall. I did run across a nice area of young skunk cabbage, some of which was attempting to poke through the remaining snow.

Go little cabbage go!

There are various sections of blowdown that obscure the trail in places on the way to Gamma Creek, but the trail is usually easy to find again and things are made easier by the presence of occasional pink flagging. There is also still a nice log across Gamma Creek, although one end may be undermined by the shifting of the creek in the next couple years.

Getting closer to Dusty Creek the snow disappeared again, and I passed the old PCT split (unsigned) before reaching the jct with the Gamma Ridge Trail (also unsigned). The strange Gamma Ridge Guardian is still there, and whose all-denim look is in surprisingly good condition.

Upper Suiattle Trail descends to left, Gamma Ridge Trail to right

The pink flagging looked to head up Gamma Ridge, so that may make for an easier trip for anyone headed that way this year. Nearing 6 PM, I followed the trail down to the Dusty Creek plain (only a couple blowdowns). There is a fire ring and nice campsite with views up the valley at the bottom. I looked around for a while and failed to find a log crossing over Dusty Creek, and due to the time I decided the rest of the valley would need to wait for a different trip. Later in the summer Dusty Creek would probably be easy to ford though. I had a pleasant evening watching the sunset over Cirque Mountain, and watching the stars come out. I got tired and went to bed before total darkness, but got up briefly at 1 AM to look at the stars. The pumice/fill made for a pleasant sleeping surface.

Crossing the creek here would be doable in the morning

The next day I briefly considering fording the creek and checking out the upper valley, but I decided I didn't want to be as tired at the end of the day and so packed up and headed back instead. I did decide to follow the old PCT to the crossing to the east side of the Suiattle River, hoping for a log to cross and make a loop of things. After not finding one and bailing on what would have been a dubious ford, I followed the open floodplain a ways downstream before finding (you guessed it) another log to shimmy across to the far side. This turned out to be a nice variation, as I got a glimpse of Glacier Peak and an easier walk back to Canyon Creek (the first time I saw people again since the day before).

Looking downriver at the old PCT Crossing

Better watch over my shoulder!

Log crossing of the Suiattle. Might have been problematic if the water were any higher

View of Glacier Peak from the other side of the river

Aside from the unpleasant mud crawl through the landslide back near the trailhead, the return trip was uneventful, although it was very hot in the south-facing forest below Grassy Point. I passed the time investigating the Devil's Club in various states of leafing out on the way back.

Overall, a highly recommended area if looking for solitude, and I'd go back with more time to check out the upper valley. View larger size in new window  📎topoMapsExport (2)_1428nodes.kml (46 KB)

[JVesquire]

Nice TR. That's a great place. Don't underestimate that Dusty Creek crossing. It is cold and fast.

[RichP]

Very nice trip.

[chiwakum]

Thanks for the report. I was also rambling on the south side of the river last weekend but turned around at Vista Creek. The view from your camp looks similar to mine from memorial weekend last year. I also ran across that note about fires from last year. I was impressed with how well the paper had weathered the winter.

img_020

[BeardoMcGrath]

[chiwakum]

Thanks, I probably should continue to lug my heavy Nikon around (used for that shot). My mirrorless setup can't quite cut it. Shoot, if I had realized that there was a usable log in the area you crossed I would have made the effort to continue past Vista Ck for a loop trip. Last year there were a zillion bear prints all around my camp along the river (including new ones when I got up both mornings). I didn't notice any this year.

[BeardoMcGrath]

Yes, admittedly it was a bit of a risk to head as far as I did downriver on the SW side; if I hadn't found a log before Gamma Creek I probably would have had to go all the way back or bushwhack up the fill to the trail. Yeah, I didn't see any bear prints at Dusty Creek, and just the one set heading upriver across from where Miners Creek enters the Suiattle.

[Homey360]

Great report. I went around Glacier last season and was tempted to try the old route you describe but played in conservative. Planning to do it again this year and will try the old route this time. Has anyone tried the old route up to Buck Creek Pass that crosses Triad Creek?

[WalkAbout Wally]

Awesome Report! Exploring Upper Suiattle on Bucket List for some time... Thank You for the Inspiration!