Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt. Shasta - West Face Gully (5/26-5/28)
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rocknclimb
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Joined: 10 Sep 2010
Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee Valley
rocknclimb
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PostWed May 30, 2018 7:07 pm 
A couple buddies and myself had been discussing the idea of climbing Mt. Shasta for some time, and as luck would have it our schedules became free over the Memorial weekend. The three of us took off from Wenatchee Friday after work and headed toward Ellensburg to meet up with Neil who would be joining us. Thankfully, Liz & Danny had family outside of Bend OR so we were able to split our drive in two halves. The next morning we headed for the town of Mt Shasta to pick up some last minute items (Whiskey) before heading up to the crowded Bunny Flats TH. The four of us headed toward Hidden Valley under the West Face Gully around 4:00 with heavy packs and good vibes. The crowds diminished after passing the horse camp as most groups looked to be heading up Avalanche Gulch. The trail to Hidden Valley is almost completely dry of snow and only took about 3 hours to reach camp. We were able to find a dry camp near the toe of the valley on a ridge.
Traversing to Hidden Valley
Traversing to Hidden Valley
Rest break
Rest break
Hidden Valley and Shasta
Hidden Valley and Shasta
Hidden Valley
Hidden Valley
Saturday evening was spent enjoying the sunset and drinking to our hearts desire.
All smiles at camp
All smiles at camp
Mt Shasta
Mt Shasta
Casaval Ridge
Casaval Ridge
Sunset with Jim Beam
Sunset with Jim Beam
Sunset on Shasta
Sunset on Shasta
Nearly a full moon
Nearly a full moon
Upper mountain detail
Upper mountain detail
Sunset
Sunset
Sunset pano
Sunset pano
Our plan was to spend Sunday climbing Shastina to help us acclimate to the elevation, but mother nature had other plans. 6:00am brought very heavy winds with gusts well over 50mph at camp. We decided to find some protection from the winds until things improved. Neil and myself spent much of the morning saving tents that were loosing stakes and / or shredding from the wind.
Sunrise over camp
Sunrise over camp
Tent view
Tent view
Thankfully around noon the wind dialed back and we decided to head for Cascade Gulch to do some exploring.
Liz looking at the objective
Liz looking at the objective
Winter playground
Winter playground
Heading up toward Cascade Gulch
Heading up toward Cascade Gulch
Chillin
Chillin
Danny glissading
Danny glissading
Glissade
Glissade
Wandering Hidden Valley
Wandering Hidden Valley
The winds picked right back up at night and I started to become concerned about our summit bid, but amazingly we awoke at 2:00 to a calm breeze. We were on our way up the West Face by 3:15am under a near full moon. Our route took us up the main gully directly from Hidden Valley onto the West Face (not sure why most parties go the variation as this felt much more direct). From here we slowly headed to an obvious saddle at 13,000' atop the West Face. Snow conditions were great in the morning even with the large wind drifts up high.
Heading up the west face gully
Heading up the west face gully
Mountain shadow
Mountain shadow
Shastina
Shastina
Misery hill and the summit
Misery hill and the summit
At this point the four of us all took our own pace up the aptly named misery hill and over to the summit block.
Nearing misery hill
Nearing misery hill
Top of the west face gully
Top of the west face gully
Summit block
Summit block
Was hoping the snow on the west face would soften for my descent, but that didn't prove to be the case. Ended up downclimbing about 1,000' of crust before being able to do any plunge stepping. Decided to take the variation on the way down and was able to still get a decent glissade to camp. We slogged back to the car shortly after tired, but happy for what we had accomplished. The drive back to Bend was brutal as we arrived 24 hours after waking up, but thankful we didn't have to go all the way to Wenatchee. Another great day in the mountains!!!

When asked "Why do you climb"? Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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mtn.climber
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Joined: 29 Jul 2008
Posts: 1202 | TRs | Pics
Location: The Lost Horizon
mtn.climber
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PostWed May 30, 2018 8:41 pm 
Ah...memories! Great job by everyone! up.gif

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Fletcher
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Joined: 29 Jul 2009
Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics
Location: kirkland
Fletcher
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PostWed May 30, 2018 9:07 pm 
Excellent! I bet the Beam tasted great up there rolleyes.gif

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xuanxier
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Joined: 09 May 2017
Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics
Location: Vancouver, BC
xuanxier
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PostThu May 31, 2018 11:31 pm 
Nice jog. It's volcano season again. Brings back some memories from May 2017 when I put down a solo trip that way bagging Shasta, Shastina, Lassen, The Watchman (Crater Lake) and Beacon Rock in 4 days return from Vancouver.

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cascadeclimber
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Joined: 04 Sep 2006
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cascadeclimber
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PostFri Jun 01, 2018 8:07 am 
I climbed this route a few years back. We left Seattle in the afternoon, drove to Bunny Flats, got out, climbed up, skied down, and drove to McLoughlin. All in a sleepless push. Your way looks like more fun smile.gif

If not now, when?
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