Forum Index > Trip Reports > Zion, Escalante Staircase, Grand Canyon, (nipples and seaman) – May 2018
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Gimpilator
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
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PostSat Jun 02, 2018 9:35 am 
Intro I planned a roadtrip revolving around meeting with various people here and there in the desert at different times. First I would join John Stolk and Grant Meyers, later I would join Greg Slayden and Dave Covill. As with many of these trips, almost nothing went as we planned. In fact, everything from the second day until I met with Greg and Dave was completely improvised last-minute, with no prior research. 5-10 Seaman Peak - 8606' I started my trip with Seaman, which is always a good way to start. The route goes north up a talus gully and then turns west onto a ridge with nice mature Pondersoa.
talus gully
talus gully
dinosaur
dinosaur
May 11 Troy Peak – 11,298' This peak used to be a lot easier, but still not easy. Since the forest burned, the Rimrock Canyon road washed out very badly and there is deadfall. To make matters worse, the washout trough and much of the very long approach is filled with tumbleweed drifts. These drifts are tricky to wade through.
washed out road trough
washed out road trough
tumbleweed drifts
tumbleweed drifts
After hiking west up the canyon, I turned north into a basin and got onto the southeast rib. There are a number of ways you could deal with the upper limestone cliffs. I chose to traverse north below the cliffs to a hidden gully. The gully was steep and loose and had some snow, but it went above the cliffs to the upper south slope.
steep gully
steep gully
chossy
chossy
On the summit I was dismayed to see a storm system dumping snow on nearby Currant Mountain which I had been thinking about for the following day. I was even more disturbed when I realized that it was coming my way. Time to get down below the cliffs as quickly as possible.
snowing on Currant
snowing on Currant
I made it back down before the storm hit, but tore my finger open while pounding tent stakes with sideways rain in the dark. May 12 The rain and wind were intense all night long. I slept soundly and awoke to find that all the peaks in every direction had snow down to 5000 feet. The high peaks looked like they had a lot of snow. I called John and Grant. Around noon the verdict came back. Our plans for northern Nevada were totally shot. Snowstorms would be continuing for several days hence. Time to go somewhere else, beyond the reach of the storms. I drove to Utah. White River Narrows Petroglyphs During the drive I noticed something off the side of the highway, so I stopped to explore. What I found was really awesome and completely unexpected. These were the White River Narrows petroglyphs. I suspect that I only saw a little of what’s in this area.
May 13 Signal Peak – 10,365’ I hiked the north side trail, but afterward a friend told me the eastern approach is more scenic. To get to the peak requires some minor off-trail route finding. Minimal views at the summit area.
Burger Peak – 10,321’ Burger is more interesting and has better views.
Veyo Volcano - 5239’
Signal
Signal
May 14 Mount Trumbull – 8029' Through the grapevine, I was able to connect with Matthias Stender who is nearly finished with the Arizona P2k’s. We both wanted to do Trumbull, but the extremely remote long approach roads have a notorious reputation for killing tires. One poor fellow got 3 flats on his trip. Since neither of us own spare tires, we decided to bring two vehicles for a total of 8 tires.
Trumbull has a trail to the summit, although it is difficult to see in parts of the forest. We found some overlook spots with a view and the benchmark, but no register. Mount Logan – 7866' Logan is a shorter hike and a better peak than Trumbull because the view into Parashant Canyon and Hells Hole is really nice. Afterward I bid farewell to Matthias. I’d like to join him for his list finish next year and the crux peak.
Hells Hole
Hells Hole
May 15 West Northgate Peak – 7267' A desire for the Guardian Angels is increasing. I was frustrated that I didn’t bring a rope on this roadtrip because I was sorely tempted to solo those peaks, but I figured that without actually climbing them, getting an intimate view was the next best thing.
trailhead deer
trailhead deer
The best vantage to sneak a peek of North Guardian might be from West Northgate. It’s class 3 slickrock by the easiest route, but if you are careless you will find yourself on 4th or mid 5th terrain. I was amused by the presence of a rappel sling in the middle of the scramble.
summit
summit
North Guardian
North Guardian
Rams Peak
Rams Peak
Red Butte and Pine Valley Peak
Red Butte and Pine Valley Peak
rap sling
rap sling
East Northgate Peak – 7159' Much easier than the west peak. There’s a steep sandy trail to the summit.
West Northgate from East
West Northgate from East
The Guardian Angels
The Guardian Angels
Pocket Mesa – 7528' From the previous summits, this formation intrigued me and I wondered if any sort of weakness might exist through the cliffs. I found a good ramp on the northwest side. The upper mesa was choked with manzanita. On the way to the summit I waded through hundreds of bees attracted to the manzanita flowers.
ramp
ramp
Guardian Angels
Guardian Angels
Red Butte
Red Butte
I was beginning to learn a lesson about Zion peakbagging. Many of the peaks in this area have crappy flat summits with little or no views. The real action is in the sandstone cliffs. That’s where the beauty is. If you’re stubborn and narrow-minded about getting summits, then you are missing the point here. This is canyon country, so take a deep breath and enjoy the canyon. Firepit Knoll – 7265' Probably very few people realize the volcanic history of Zion. I won’t pretend to know anything about it, but while studying Google Maps I recognized many small cinder cone volcanoes here and all over the place. The first one I climbed was extremely brushy, but an old road made for easy access and then numerous animal paths eased the going. The caldera was pretty neat. There were also lava bombs scattered all over. Yep, a volcano.
Red Butte
Red Butte
a lion kill
a lion kill
caldera
caldera
Across the valley, Red Butte is impressive. My buddy Matt Below has climbed that, but again I would need a rope to even consider it. Karnarra Canyon The afternoon heat was on and I decided to cool down and take a deep breath and try to do some kind of hiking that didn’t involve a summit. I’d like to thank GaliWalker for her report about this place, without which I never would have known. It’s crowded and you have to pay now to enter, however I found that everyone was deterred by the second ladder with is missing multiple rungs and has a waterfall going over it. Somewhat dangerous.
sketch
sketch
After that, I had the whole place to myself and I hiked another mile and a half up. This place is pure magic. I was overcome with manic delight, completely removed from my senses and thrust into a fairyland of lush green plants and flowing water between magnificent walls of red. Several times I tried to reel myself in and slow down and keep it under control.
May 16 Brian Head – 11,307' I tried to drive to the top, but the road was blocked by snow, so I hiked cross-country.
Cedar Breaks over there
Cedar Breaks over there
Cedar Breaks North Overlook This is not a peak, but a scenic viewpoint. I was curious about the Cedar Breaks thing so I stopped here briefly to look.
Brian Head
Brian Head
Navajo Point – 10,575' Another cross-country peak with trees at the summit and partial views.
Navajo
Navajo
Brian Head
Brian Head

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Gimpilator
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Joined: 12 Oct 2006
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostSat Jun 02, 2018 9:35 am 
Frisco Peak – 9660' I drove to 8160 feet over some very rough and loose rock. It was probably foolish to take the Subaru that far. I hiked the rest of the way which was mostly better than what I drove up.
May 17 Wah Wah Mountain – 9393' The next bunch of peaks are remote. The approach road was good however. I awoke in the morning to find a tick crawling on my pillow inside my tent. frown.gif
Wah Wah is off-trail through trees and brush. I hiked up a south ridge and then the main southeast ridge, watching for ticks on my legs. Thankfully none. Wah Benchmark – 9383' This northern summit a half mile away is supposedly 10 feet lower than the main peak. Too close to know for certain. It also has a register.
Indian Peak – 9790' The drive to this one is the crux. Fortunately the road was recently graded. The route goes up a north fence line. As suggested, I followed the fence the entire way. It was very steep and loose in places with brush and some fallen logs. Not a pleasant route, but good views.
May 18 Highland Peak – 9395' Around this time I got word from John and Grant that they were planning on Worthington/Hyko/Highland soon, so I drove over there hoping to run into them. There’s no cell signal in that part of Nevada, so I knew that my chances of finding them were not good. I drove to the top of Highland.
Hyko Benchmark – 7950' Very highly recommend this peak. It has some of the best summit views of any peak I’ve done in southern Nevada to date. Furthermore, the route is interesting and less than straight-forward. I parked at 6160 feet and followed the old road briefly before ascending northwest onto an east ridge.
I scrambled through some minor cliffs only to discover that my camera case was mysterious empty. Where was my camera? I went almost all the was back to the bottom and then came back up the exact same way and found my camera where it had fallen out. My poor camera has tumbled down gullies in WA and the view screen was broken in CA this last January. I’m still shooting everything without being able to see, just hoping that some turn out.
When I came to the upper plateau, I noticed chips of flint scattered all over the place. It was obvious that before modern times, American Natives used to wait here and craft tools. They knew that animals from the plateau would pass this exact spot on the way down to Twin Springs below.
I continued north into a maze of granitic formations. I thought I could find an easy direct way to the summit, but I was wrong. When I finally came to the summit, I was pleased to face a steep short scramble. This is an excellent peak.
USGS tripod
USGS tripod
May 19 Big Mountain – 7230' I needed to resupply in Saint George, so I drove up Big Mountain and found the register which hadn’t been signed in a decade.
May 20 Crater Hill – 5200' Another Zion volcano! I ascended the lower west slope and then traversed into the crater. Satellite images had revealed the origin of lava and I wanted to inspect those rock outcrops. From the outcrops I followed the crater rim to the summit. Two cairns, no register.
Smithsonian
Smithsonian
Unique views of Zion peaks but the sunrise angle was not in my favor. It might be better to do this one in the afternoon. Smithsonian Butte is very impressive!
Checkerboard Mesa – 6520' This is natural lines in the sandstone walls of this peak make it a famous attraction. Busloads of daily tourists ensure that it is one of the most photographed features in the entire country.
I ascended the northeast canyon which was fun and turned west at a saddle. The upper plateau was forested and the high point was pretty lame.
Nippletop – 6715' This is my favorite Zion peak so far. Slickrock, exposure, route-finding, cactus flowers, and a class 3 summit block. Also the best Zion views of the trip.
The north ridge features a false summit and is divided by a ravine. I ascended the western rib and crossed the ravine at a key point and then aimed for some prominent formations to get on the crest of the main eastern north ridge.
I passed over the false summit and followed along a semi-knife-edge to the north face of the peak. There is a headwall with a class 3 weakness which some have called class 4. The upper plateau has some giant ancient trees. The final scramble is a little exposed but overall easy.
summit block
summit block
back down the knife ridge
back down the knife ridge
Timber Mountain – 7480' I drove into the Grand Staircase Escalante, having always wondered what it’s like there. I felt fortunate to see it before it gets ravaged by capitalist greed. My plan was to camp up there and do the peak the next morning, but there was some time left, so I went for it. The last road proved to be too much for the Subaru, so I hiked it and then went off-trail to the summit. Not a lot of signatures, 3 including mine.
Mollies Nipple
Mollies Nipple
To the east I saw something shaped like Mount Jefferson in Oregon. Mollies Nipple is very pointy and attractive. The urge was excited in me. I decided on the spot to climb it the next day. On the map I saw another summit a quarter mile to the northeast. It was in the same contour. Anyone doing this peak will need to visit both summits to claim it. The traverse along the cliff edge was fun, but I saw a lot of large cat tracks in the sand.
meow
meow

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Gimpilator
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostSat Jun 02, 2018 9:36 am 
May 21 Mollies Nipple – 7271' I drove deeper into the Escalante. The roads became pure soft sand. I was alone and one small error in my driving would make for a lot of trouble. To add to my anxiety, I was supposed to meet Dave and Greg at the Grand Canyon later in the afternoon. What would they think if I didn’t show up? This is the most challenging sand road I have ever driven and if you are thinking about this peak, I would give a word of caution. By providence I parked 100 yards before an impasse and hiked the remaining ~2 miles to the peak.
parked
parked
right before this
right before this
Turns out I love the Escalante. The plants are unique, the sandstone formations unique. I found flint chips and balls of sandstone. When I came to the peak the rock colors were variable and ascetic. It was steep and there were exposed slabs which I avoided on a south ridge. The upper mountain became more vertical and I used down-sloping ledges with exposure to climb higher. I came to a step-across notch and then ended on some very exposed class 3 above the north face.
ledges
ledges
final bit
final bit
I could see Bryce Canyon to the north and the white cliffs where I had been yesterday to the west as well as Kaibab Plateau to the south and the heart of the Escalante to the east. This peak deserves a register and I wish I had carried one along. On the drive down Park Wash, I saw petroglyphs on boulders as well some Natives in a ceremony. One young man had his face painted in warrior fashion. We waved to each other.
part of Bryce Canyon visible
part of Bryce Canyon visible
looking back
looking back
don't bust the crust
don't bust the crust
Kaibab Plateau - 9200' By chance I arrived near the summit 5 minutes after Greg and Dave, even without a specific meetup time. Forested, no views. There is a register if you search for it. Bright Angel Point – 8147' We hiked down the popular trail to this famous peaklet and scrambled to the little summit. It’s a great place to observe the canyon as well as our primary goal, Vishnu Temple.
Vishnu
Vishnu
May 22 Vishnu Temple (attempt) – 7513'
video link This peak is located more or less in the very center of the Grand Canyon. It is known for being the hardest peak located inside the canyon. We went for the most direct approach which starts at Cape Royal. It’s a route-finding challenge involving narrow exposed ledges, numerous rappels, trad-climbing, overnight camping, no trails and no water.
Vishnu
Vishnu
Wotans Throne
Wotans Throne
At first everything went well and we felt confident that we were on route, but at the Coconino level the everything went to hell. Our beta said to make a 100’ single strand rappel partially free hanging and then exit onto class 3. The problem is that there was no exit. We were walled in on either side. So we rappelled another 50 or 60 feet on the same rope. Wtf?
top of the big rappel, Coconino
top of the big rappel, Coconino
Doubt crept into my thoughts. Somebody went 30 feet further down, only to report that there was a 60 foot overhanging cliff below us. The anxiety was strong enough to make me physically ill. Greg and I agreed that we were probably off-route and the game was up, but it took Dave a little longer to come to that conclusion. Finally he did and our climb was now for survival and exit rather than for summit. Getting 3 guys and 3 packs each weighing 40+ lbs up 150+ feet of single strand rope is no small endeavor. I was especially concerned about the overhang. I jugged past an overhang inside a cave once and it was one of the most physically demanding things I have ever done. The method we developed was to send two guys up half way to haul all 3 packs and then the last guy followed. It took 2 or 3 hours to jug up this single cliff band. At the next cliff band we had pulled the rope, so it was time for someone to lead. Dave volunteered. He got one marginal cam placement but went too far left into featureless sandstone and then fell. Half way down the cam popped out, but took much of the force of his fall, and then he hit the ground. It was a 15 foot fall. He rolled back and was unhurt besides minor bruising. Greg and I were so relieved. If he had been injured, it would have been very serious. After watching the fall I felt an unusual confidence growing in me. I always prefer to let others lead trad, but I felt that I could climb this chimney despite the overhanging top. I climbed half way up and then threw the rope over a chock stone and belayed myself to the top. Then I belayed the guys and we took turns hauling the packs.
The sun was starting to set, but we were near a bivy site that Charlie Winger told us about. We made it to that spot just as it was getting dark. We were all humbled by this canyon and I for one felt very glad to just be alive and have this experience without anyone getting seriously hurt. I’ll have to think very seriously about whether I want to do any climbing inside the Grand again. Probably not.
elusive Vishnu
elusive Vishnu
Dave on a ledge
Dave on a ledge
The next day we continued climbing up small cliff bands and going across ledges. The guys had to help me with my pack at “the crawl”. They are more confident with narrow ledges than I am. May 23 Lookout Tower Hill – 9165' After we escaped the canyon, Greg and I went to check out a lookout tower and then bushwhacked to the true summit. Dave had already done this one before so he waited for us.
Peak 8881 Saddle Mountain – 8424' Next up, Dave wanted Saddle Mountain so we drove over there. The description I got was sand-bagged and I only brought one liter of water and a couple snacks. To get to the peak you go over a higher peak and then drop a long way down. The accumulative gain adds up to something like 3k gain.
prow
prow
It’s a nice peak with only one steep brushy slope after you go around the north side of a prow. On the summit I found the best fossil bed I have ever seen. I spent the whole time up there looking at fossils.
Saddle summit cairn
Saddle summit cairn
fossils
fossils
tri-colored sandstone
tri-colored sandstone
May 24 Delano Peak – 12,169' Dave went back home to Colorado, so Greg and I continued on our own. Our plans had been for Nevada, but it was still stormy over there so we went further east into canyon country. On the way we drove up Delano. The road to the trailhead was still closed for snow, so we walked it to the west ridge. The view of Baldy, Belknap, and Gold was inspiring. I want to come back for those peaks.
Baldy
Baldy
Belknap
Belknap
May 25 Mount Ellen – 11,522' Mount Ellen is a big peak located between the Escalante Staircase and Canyonlands. There are 4 more significant peaks nearby to the southwest. Coming in from the southeast, I was able to drive to Bull Creek Pass at 10,485 feet, the highest my car has ever been. We did the short hike to the summit on a trail. It was windy and cold. We could see Navajo Mountain down south.
Along the trail Greg asked several hikers just how they had driven in and about the road to the north. It was difficult to discern exactly which roads they were talking about. I was apprehensive about driving down a different way because I’ve had trouble with that before, but Greg wanted to try it so we did. The direct road back to Hanksville was very rocky and rough. I don’t believe we saved any time. Little Wildhorse Canyon Greg tried to find this canyon over 20 years ago, before it was well known. He hiked in on the snow that first time and couldn’t located the entrance. So in a sense, we were clearing up a failed attempt for him. I was super excited because some guidebook author says this is the best hike-able slot in Utah. It was 93 degrees when we started.
The entrance was blocked by deep pools, but there is an exposed work around. Once we got into the slot, I was enthralled. Definitely the best slot I’ve ever squeezed into. There was one pool along the way which I didn’t bother to take shoes off for, but Greg was in boots so he did. I can’t adequately describe how awesome this canyon is, so I won’t even try.
Bell Canyon From the upper end we hiked an old road around to Bell Canyon and descended through that. Also a really good canyon, but without the same degree of impressive slots.
May 26 Mount Pennell – 11,408' We had time for one more big peak before whisking Greg off to the Vegas airport. Pennell was the second biggest in the area. We hiked up an old road above Straight Creek and cut off of it before getting to the comms towers. It was hard for me to leave Hillers/Holmes/Ellsworth, but I’m certain to spend a lot more time exploring this area in the near future.
Ellen from Pennell
Ellen from Pennell
Hillers
Hillers
Navajo
Navajo
May 27 Promontory Point – 2277' On the morning of Greg’s flight, we had time for a quick bagging, so we brought a rope and gear over to Promontory Point near Hoover Dam. Temps were in the mid 90’s. I was concerned about access issues because of security around the dam, and the guidebook mentions class 4 cliffs, but we found a class 2 route with maybe one 3 move. Much easier than expected and even a register.

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Jake Robinson
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Jake Robinson
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PostSat Jun 02, 2018 10:00 am 
Beautiful shots of Zion! I love how colorful the rock is there. Your experience on Vishnu Temple sounds a bit intense, I'm glad you all made it out unscathed.

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GaliWalker
Have camera will use



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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostSat Jun 02, 2018 12:21 pm 
Wow, great report(s)! Little Wildhorse Canyon in particular looks spectacular!
Gimpilator wrote:
I’d like to thank GaliWalker for her report about this place, without which I never would have known. It’s crowded and you have to pay now to enter, however I found that everyone was deterred by the second ladder with is missing multiple rungs and has a waterfall going over it. Somewhat dangerous.
I was surprised to see Kanarra Creek photos and you're welcome! That second ladder looks quite a bit worse now, and it was sketchy even when I did it. eek.gif PS. I'm a guy.

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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chandlerhaberlack
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chandlerhaberlack
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PostSat Jun 02, 2018 1:04 pm 
Love the canyon shots. What a great write up.

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Brushbuffalo
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Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between
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PostSat Jun 02, 2018 7:30 pm 
Gimpilator wrote:
Probably very few people realize the volcanic history of Zion.
That statement also applies to not only Zion but other assorted areas in Utah, Nevada, SE Oregon, Eastern California, Northern Arizona, even New Mexico. Volcanoes are scattered in clusters all over the Great Basin. Fun to see you branch out from peakbagging to explore some fantastic canyons and mesas, Adam.

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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Matt Lemke
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High on the Outdoors
PostSat Jun 02, 2018 10:52 pm 
Escalante is also one of my favorite areas. Red breaks slot canyon is a very special one, as is the nearby cosmic ashtray. Pennel and Ellen are also really sweet views. I could still spend years in Utah despite the time I've already spent there! Nice trip

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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OutOfOffice
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PostMon Jun 04, 2018 10:40 pm 
I was just down in the Grand Canyon myself. Need to plan more trips to Escalante. Some mind blowing terrain in there

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joker
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PostTue Jun 05, 2018 2:25 pm 
Wow - quite a walkabout! You hit some cool spots.
GaliWalker wrote:
Little Wildhorse Canyon in particular looks spectacular!
IT's very pretty and very accessible and very well known now. The area around it is cool - looks like there is a lot of exploration potential in the San Rafel Swell...
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon-2
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon-2

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Gimpilator
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Gimpilator
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PostTue Jun 12, 2018 3:32 pm 
GaliWalker wrote:
PS. I'm a guy.
Deep apologies for the ignorant assumption. I feel like I've been told that before. Anyhow, thanks again for your report. It shaped the direction my trip took.
Matt Lemke wrote:
Red breaks slot canyon is a very special one, as is the nearby cosmic ashtray.
Thanks for the recommendation Matt. I know you have a ton of experience down there. I'll bookmark these two for the future.
joker wrote:
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon-2
Little-Wildhorse-Canyon-2
I'm glad you got a better shot of this spot than I did. It totally reminded me of the corrupted corridors in the Alien movies and the HR Giger museum in Austria.

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chemicalman
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PostWed Jun 13, 2018 12:19 pm 
Great report. You did a plethora of peaks! I could feel your foreboding on the canyon trip as I read about it. Glad everyone got out safely. I have been wanting to get out to Utah for a few days and will try to hit some of the prominence ones this summer. Thanks for the report!

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Homey360
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PostThu Jun 21, 2018 9:51 pm 
Super cool report. Definitely, some places I need to visit. Thanks.

"for everyone needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in where Nature may heal and cheer and give strength to body and soul alike."
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Zion, Escalante Staircase, Grand Canyon, (nipples and seaman) – May 2018
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