Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt Stickney early summer summit 2017
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SultanHiker
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PostTue Jun 27, 2017 11:37 pm 
I have been to the Stickney summit the last 3 years. This year i went a little early after a heavy winter snow season. I wanted to dial in a definitive route so I could post a GPS track for future climbers. But there was a lot of snow on the Olney Creek route as soon as I left the old road. So my track this year will likely not be a perfect Beta for a snow free route later in the season. But I think I preferred these conditions. It made the track between the road and One Acre Lake much easier. Creek beds and bushes were easier. Ice axe and Microspikes/crampons necessary. I always go the Olney Creek route. Made the decision a few years ago and I’m familiar with it. Still might try something from Wallace Falls area in the future. I live in Sultan. I’m only 40 and have lots of time to explore, I hope... I brought my 13 year old son 2 years ago. He made it farther than i thought he would (200 yds short of true summit due to fear of heights). He wanted to make summit this year. Probably a bad idea this early due to the snow pack. But I was overdue for a deep, long, day-long peak-bagging excursion. So off we go!
Before the long slog
Before the long slog
The weather forecast kept getting hotter and hotter as the weekend approached. But i was determined. If reading this years down the road. It was 96ish in Seattle and broke record for hottest day in the history of June. I decided to go early so we could hike with the cold. Got to Olney Creek road off Sultan Basin Road around 6:20 and headed out on the trail. The first 4.5 miles is boring old logging road. It gets choked with brush in some patches. Evidence of motorbikes. Even saw a Moped (wasn’t there last year) about 1.5 miles in. Locked around the front wheel to the forks. My brand new lightweight Oboz low top pseudo trail runners were starting to hurt soon after and i switched to my Vasque mid-weight boots which i brought just in case (and for the expected snow/swampy areas (waterproof). Ended up being 85% snow, 10% forest, and only 5% swampy meadow after leaving the road.)
About 2:25h (8:45am) into the hike we reached the turn off, and headed into the forest. I put on gaiters (don’t have any yet for my son). Very quickly we both put on Microspikes due to vast snow patches. In the past, I often gained too much elevation following ribbons and had to drop back down to One Acre Lake. This time, I was aware and relied on my phone to decide when to head SE so I didn’t have to needlessly gain unneeded altitude. I have no idea if snow was helpful. I think it was... I could just choose where to go by pitch and direction without too much worry about terrain obstacles like swampy meadows.
About 5.3 miles in and 3:15h into the hike (9:34am), we reached the shores of the lake. Mostly still snow covered with channels of melt visible on the surface. Apply sunscreen and sunglasses. We skirted the SW shore and headed SE.
One Acre Lake
One Acre Lake
I suggest choosing the next path carefully (snow or not). I’ve felt compelled to stay to the right up the natural gully in the past and it got steep and scary. On the way down in the past I found the other way better. In other words, go a little left (east) over a small veggie-belay and take a more consistent (and manageable) slope that is mostly S-SE. After cresting, then it’s obvious to head up a slope SE to a pond (covered in snow this trip). Halfway up this gully, my son was discouraged and wanted to quit.
Between the lake and pond
Between the lake and pond
Summit in sight
Summit in sight
We had glimpsed the summit earlier and there was a lot of snow in the final approach. I kind of knew he wouldn’t make it again. But I was this far dammit! I convinced him to consolidate our packs in to one that i would carry. Forgot to bring the water filter going forward. Dammit... We were still pretty cool at this elevation with all the snow. But feeling fatigued. And the sun was in full force. When you get to the small unnamed pond, you have to choose your path carefully. I nailed this path last year, but lost the GPS track in a phone change. I really wanted to get a perfect track for all you future hikers, but the snow meant that we had to choose what was best for the day. Basically, you head West-ish, then South to the massive gully below the notch of the final approach. Picking your path carefully. At this point (11am) we both knew he wasn’t going to make it. I told him to grab shelter from the sun and I’d whistle when i was about to head back down through the snow. I had a visual of him the whole way up, except when he was in a tree cluster hiding from the sun. I hustled up the huge gully to the notch. At this point I knew i was getting dehydrated. The first ¾ of it were doable. The last ¼ was sketchy. Had to kick in steps and anchor the ice axe for every other step. I got super thirsty and wish I had more water. When i got through the notch, the snow was gone. I ditched the microspikes and axe and scrambled the 200 yards to the summit. Then I remembered that there was no summit register and I had planned and forgot to bring one!
Gully below the summit block
Gully below the summit block
Last bit of snow in the notch before the scramble to summit
Last bit of snow in the notch before the scramble to summit
View down the gully
View down the gully
Scramble
Scramble
Loose crap
Loose crap
Wonderful views of everything! Rainier for the first time for me up here. The Olympics were hazy but visible. Baker is obscured but recognizable. Pilchuck, Shuksan, Glacier, Hinman, Daniel, Gunn, Baring, and on and on. Is that Adams? Anyway, check out the pictures.
Selfie
Selfie
Olympics
Olympics
Rainier
Rainier
Peekabo Baker
Peekabo Baker
Pilchuck
Pilchuck
Shuksan
Shuksan
Glacier
Glacier
Baring, Daniel, Hinman
Baring, Daniel, Hinman
Wider view with Gunn
Wider view with Gunn
Adams
Adams
Photosphere too. Click here Got back to my microspikes and whistled to my kid, and he waved, signaling he heard me. Put on glissade pants. Then put on the spikes and one of the muther-f’ers snapped along my right foot instep! They stayed with me for awhile. Carefully entered the snow and got through the top ¼ of the gully by downclimbing. Then I started an excellent glissade, and met up with my son. Somewhere between here and the pond below, my Kahtoola Microspike on my right foot disappeared.
My son waiting for me...
My son waiting for me...
Glissade path
Glissade path
Stopped soon for water refill. It’s difficult not to be drawn below One Acre Lake. But I’ve gone that way before and it was difficult. So we made sure to get over to the lake and head the right direction down. When we got to the road it was pretty toasty (1:45p I think...) My son kept a faster pace down than I preferred. And I started to feel pretty bad. Small headache starting. Feet hurting and I was stepping funny with my left foot. Couldn’t figure out why. It was either dehydration or low blood sugar (or both). I only had a bratwurst for breakfast. The jerky I bought at Costco was so dry it took forever to eat it on the trail and we were being careful with the water. So I only had a few pieces. I made him stop about 2 miles from the car so I could eat a protein bar that had chocolate (melted chocolate…), and guzzled some water. I felt much better for the next mile. But I was fading again for the last mile. Got to the car around 3:35p. Very hot and exhausted. He drove the 30 minutes home (he’s got a permit and needs the hours). He started feeling bad when we got home. Fatigue, headache, listless… We both felt better after more food and water, but didn’t feel normal until the next day. Didn’t hurt that the temperature dropped almost 20 degrees the next day. Track for download: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_LO4jgWLaI1d01XNXJwWHBkLU0/

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flatsqwerl
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PostWed Jun 28, 2017 8:13 am 
That looks like a great time to do the peak with all that brush covered by snow.

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Steve Erickson
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PostWed Jun 28, 2017 8:40 am 
You mentioned that you did not purchase gaiters for your son yet. I always carrying duc tape in my truck and when I think I may need gaiters and don't have them, I use duc tape. Works great.

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SultanHiker
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PostWed Jun 28, 2017 8:08 pm 
Steve Erickson: His legs are hairier than mine!!! But not a bad tip! In all seriousness, debris was almost a non-factor. And when asked, he said that he didn't get a lot of snow at the top of his boots.

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Roald
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PostWed Jun 28, 2017 9:29 pm 
Thanks for the beta and description of your trip. I drive by Stickney all the time and it is so attractive from Hwy 2. Maybe next year...

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SKS
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PostThu Jun 29, 2017 10:26 am 
I know what you're talking about with the long hikes on hot days on snow. I've done a couple this year and can never seem to drink enough water. With the sweat and fatigue my symptoms are usually cramps that last into the night while I'm trying to sleep. After my last hike, around midnight, I washed down a tablespoon of salt and cramps were gone in less than 10 seconds and didn't return. Hopefully it will work next time, too. Glad you made it safely.

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KurgansDad
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PostThu Jun 14, 2018 10:23 pm 
Another excellent Father son adventure. My 14 yr old finally said he wants to go camping/hiking with me. I don't think he's ready for Stickney, but maybe the lakes. Almost a year later from your post, what do you think the conditions would be like there this year?

For too many years I gazed at the Cascades and other mountains as they taunted me and I said "...Someday..." Now I find I'm running out of somedays...
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SultanHiker
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PostFri Jun 15, 2018 7:04 am 
Definitely not for rookie 14 year olds. But after some conditioning, maybe your kid would be up for it. I'm guessing there's still snow. Maybe the road is clear, but the forest and talus slopes will still be covered right now.

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KurgansDad
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PostFri Jun 15, 2018 12:43 pm 
Thanks. Yeah, he needs a lot of conditioning. I don't want to burn him out and have him not enjoy hiking. Snow in the forest? I would have thought that canopy would pretty much block almost anything. I've been up there in the rain, and barely got wet while in the heaviest parts

For too many years I gazed at the Cascades and other mountains as they taunted me and I said "...Someday..." Now I find I'm running out of somedays...
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SultanHiker
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PostFri Jun 15, 2018 7:32 pm 
The road walk has lots of southern exposure and at lower elevation. So it melts out quicker. The forest sees less sun and has higher elevation. The gully below the summit faces north and is the biggest obstacle to gaining the summit. When it melts out, there is a some webbing that aids in climbing the notch. If it is out of reach or not trustworthy, then it borders on Class 4 for a little bit. I might be climbing it later this year if schedules allow. If you are interested in joining, PM me. (probably September/October as my July/August look pretty busy)

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evergreenhiker
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PostSat Jun 16, 2018 11:13 am 
SultanHiker wrote:
When it melts out, there is a some webbing that aids in climbing the notch. If it is out of reach or not trustworthy, then it borders on Class 4 for a little bit.
Stickney is on my list too, but never done it. So one might need rope for that section? No experience with rope stuff. Is this the easiest way up to the summit? Class 4 is like climbing a cliff right? i will getting a helmet regardless when I do this.

The alpine world is my church.
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JustsayMo
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PostMon Jun 18, 2018 5:41 am 
Thank you for this excellent report.

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SultanHiker
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PostTue Jun 19, 2018 6:58 pm 
It's hard to explain. One year, the hand line made of webbing was out of reach from the notch (it was blown up by wind or some jerk threw it up high) . I was just barely able to free climb up and grab it to make it the rest of the way (and left it low when I was done) . but if you're shorter than me, it would be difficult to make the first couple moves. I'm 5-10, almost. and I'm a pretty decent climber, although I don't do true rock climbing. But I am on ladders and roofs all day at my job. Usually the handline is easily within reach, and gives most everyone (not afraid of heights) the stability and safety to get to a vantage point to gain the ridge. After the notch, there's not much to it. Just one move where you might choose to turn around to descend 4-5 feet. Video https://photos.app.goo.gl/SXcPmLj8rE7fQVk18

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evergreenhiker
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PostTue Jun 19, 2018 8:10 pm 
SultanHiker wrote:
It's hard to explain. One year, the hand line made of webbing was out of reach from the notch (it was blown up by wind or some jerk threw it up high) . I was just barely able to free climb up and grab it to make it the rest of the way (and left it low when I was done) . but if you're shorter than me, it would be difficult to make the first couple moves. I'm 5-10, almost. and I'm a pretty decent climber, although I don't do true rock climbing. But I am on ladders and roofs all day at my job. Usually the handline is easily within reach, and gives most everyone (not afraid of heights) the stability and safety to get to a vantage point to gain the ridge. After the notch, there's not much to it. Just one move where you might choose to turn around to descend 4-5 feet. Video https://photos.app.goo.gl/SXcPmLj8rE7fQVk18
Thanks! 'that doesn't look too bad...video part anyway. I'm 5'7" so we'll see how it goes.

The alpine world is my church.
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SultanHiker
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PostTue Jun 19, 2018 9:39 pm 
Hang on. I'll get some other pics/video if i can find them of the notch and the ridge. Even if the handline is still there, it is off to climbers left. That makes it hard to climb straight up for the 10-15 ft before it makes sense to head left. Without the handline it feels quite sketchy (i've done it once out of necessity)
My first trip up (circa 2014). with my neighbor.
My first trip up (circa 2014). with my neighbor.
You can just make out the handline which was flung up in an unsual position this year (2015)
You can just make out the handline which was flung up in an unsual position this year (2015)
Me above as my buddy makes the tough move. 2016
Me above as my buddy makes the tough move. 2016
My friend not so fond of the ridge 2016 [url=https://photos.app.goo.gl/nzCnicsLSyDwuurF7]Link to video[/url]
My friend not so fond of the ridge 2016 Link to video
we stayed the night at One Acre Lake (aka mosquito hell) [url=https://photos.app.goo.gl/eAJLSexJY1VjPP4B9]Link to video[/url]
we stayed the night at One Acre Lake (aka mosquito hell) Link to video

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