Forum Index > Trip Reports > Chilliwack 6-Pack in 4 Days. Moxes, Redoubt, Spickard, Rahm, Custer. July 8-11
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xuanxier
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Joined: 09 May 2017
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xuanxier
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 2:47 pm 
Full trip report: http://stevensong.com/easy-mox http://stevensong.com/mount-redoubt-wa http://stevensong.com/hard-mox http://stevensong.com/mount-spickard http://stevensong.com/mount-rahm http://stevensong.com/mount-custer This is Eric Gilbertson's bulger mission and I was glad to be part of it. Took everything out of me to keep up the pace. Day 1: approach in, climb Easy Mox, climb Redoubt (18 hours) Day 2: Hard Mox (10.5 hours) Day 3: move camp, climb Spickard, climb Rahm (11.5 hours) Day 4: Custer, then hike out (12 hours) Long version check my site's trip reports.

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Jake Robinson
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Jake Robinson
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 3:56 pm 
You guys are crazy. 5 of these in 5 days took almost everything I had.
xuanxier wrote:
It’s not that bad, not at all
If this is "not that bad, not at all" maybe I don't want to climb anything in the Rockies wink.gif

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Matt Lemke
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Joined: 15 Jul 2010
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Matt Lemke
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 5:58 pm 
Jake Robinson wrote:
If this is "not that bad, not at all" maybe I don't want to climb anything in the Rockies wink.gif
The rock in the Canadian Rockies is legendary, however the more popular routes are all cleaned out leaving some fairly solid rock. It's when you get into places no one has been or onto the glacial moraines it gets exceptionally heinous

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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xuanxier
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xuanxier
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PostSun Jul 15, 2018 6:53 pm 
You need 6 Custers stacked on top of each other and turns into Class 3-4 with complicated ledges and route finding (with heavy backpacks) just to get to the pitched climbing on Alberta, and from there it took us 18.5 hours return to tag the summit. One vertical mile of choss pile that's worse than Custer on the most part. Whitehorn is even worse. 3-day full pack and 600 vertical meters of choss-covered concrete hardpacked moraine. We sent probably 30 microwaves down and anything below us on that path would be killed. Ended up searching for an alternative route down which avoided the worst of it, but the trade off was 45-degree bushwhacking for hours. Wanna practice scree-on-slabs? Do west ridge of Sir Douglas. Even getting to the start of that ridge you gotta climb hard black ice and get showered by rock falls constantly, and that's before sunrise. Robson, Patterson's Spur approach is another one to practice down-sloping 4th class choss, and yeah with 50+ lb backpacks for both up and down... Deltaform and Hungabee has reputation, but is much better. Custer is better than the above two by a large margin.

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Matt Lemke
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Joined: 15 Jul 2010
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Location: Grand Junction
Matt Lemke
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PostMon Jul 16, 2018 8:23 pm 
xuanxier wrote:
You need 6 Custers stacked on top of each other and turns into Class 3-4 with complicated ledges and route finding (with heavy backpacks) just to get to the pitched climbing on Alberta, and from there it took us 18.5 hours return to tag the summit. One vertical mile of choss pile that's worse than Custer on the most part. Whitehorn is even worse. 3-day full pack and 600 vertical meters of choss-covered concrete hardpacked moraine. We sent probably 30 microwaves down and anything below us on that path would be killed. Ended up searching for an alternative route down which avoided the worst of it, but the trade off was 45-degree bushwhacking for hours. Wanna practice scree-on-slabs? Do west ridge of Sir Douglas. Even getting to the start of that ridge you gotta climb hard black ice and get showered by rock falls constantly, and that's before sunrise. Robson, Patterson's Spur approach is another one to practice down-sloping 4th class choss, and yeah with 50+ lb backpacks for both up and down... Deltaform and Hungabee has reputation, but is much better. Custer is better than the above two by a large margin.
I can make all that much more manageable by cutting that 50 pound pack in half to 25 pounds with my cascades ultralight cult experience wink.gif

The Pacific coast to the Great Plains = my playground!!! SummitPost Profile See my website at: http://www.lemkeclimbs.com
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Chilliwack 6-Pack in 4 Days. Moxes, Redoubt, Spickard, Rahm, Custer. July 8-11
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