Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Clark (Royal Basin, Olympics) - 11/17/18
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Jake Robinson
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Jake Robinson
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PostSat Nov 17, 2018 9:37 pm 
Eric and I climbed Mount Clark in the Olympics today. What a fun trip! We met at the Upper Dungeness Trailhead late Friday night and slept in our vehicles. We left the trailhead at 5:20 AM and headlamped up to Royal Lake. It was a beautiful morning, but frigid (temps probably 15-20 degrees). We filled the water bottles at the creek crossing below Upper Royal Basin (the last running water we encountered) and then headed for Surprise Basin. The trail to upper Royal Basin was entirely snow free.
Alpenglow
Alpenglow
Mount Deception above a frozen creek
Mount Deception above a frozen creek
Eric in upper Royal Basin
Eric in upper Royal Basin
Eric and a frozen tarn with Mt. Clark beyond
Eric and a frozen tarn with Mt. Clark beyond
Mount Deception above frozen tarn
Mount Deception above frozen tarn
Hair frost
Hair frost
Mount Clark (on the right) above Surprise Basin
Mount Clark (on the right) above Surprise Basin
Surprise Basin was slow going. We worked our way across tedious talus and scree and bare ice (crampons required) until we reached the pass at the N end of the basin. From there we followed Fletcher's route description for Clark. It is incredibly helpful and accurate and you should definitely use it if you plan to climb Clark.
Crevasse in Surprise Basin
Crevasse in Surprise Basin
Eric on tedious loose terrain in Surprise Basin
Eric on tedious loose terrain in Surprise Basin
More Surprise Basin choss
More Surprise Basin choss
We followed the obvious ledge for a while until we encountered the gully mentioned by Fletcher. We climbed the gully and rounded the corner to the NE face of Clark, where we encountered the first snow of the day. The short section after this corner was the crux of our trip. Eric downclimbed snowy and icy class 3 rock for a bit until he reached a section that required a rope. We rappelled off a convenient rock horn and left the rope in place to aid us on the way back. We continued traversing snowy ledges, then climbed steep snow and icy class 3 to the summit.
Eric starting the ledge
Eric starting the ledge
Crux section. We rappelled the lower part of this.
Crux section. We rappelled the lower part of this.
Eric rappelling
Eric rappelling
Snowy ledge traversing
Snowy ledge traversing
Eric on the final moves to the summit
Eric on the final moves to the summit
We hung out on the summit for over an hour. I love these crisp and clear fall days - everything from Mt. St. Helens to the North Cascades all the way to Mt. Garibaldi and the peaks of Vancouver Island was visible. What a treat to be here in mid November!
Eric on the summit of Clark
Eric on the summit of Clark
Looking over to Johnson and Olympus
Looking over to Johnson and Olympus
Eric on Clark with Buckhorn, Cloudy, Warrior, Constance, Inner Constance
Eric on Clark with Buckhorn, Cloudy, Warrior, Constance, Inner Constance
Views north to Mt. Walkinshaw and Gray Wolf Ridge
Views north to Mt. Walkinshaw and Gray Wolf Ridge
We gingerly made our way back to Surprise Basin. Climbing back up the crux was easier than expected but the rope was useful as a handline. More tedious choss and ice got us back to upper Royal Basin, then we cruised out to the car, where ice-cold beers (no cooler required!) were waiting for us. Thanks Eric for another great trip!
Snowy ledge traverse on the way back
Snowy ledge traverse on the way back
Eric climbing back up the crux
Eric climbing back up the crux
Johnson
Johnson
Olympic choss
Olympic choss
Icy Surprise Basin
Icy Surprise Basin
Looking back up at Clark
Looking back up at Clark
Eric in Surprise Basin
Eric in Surprise Basin
Eric looking out over Royal Basin
Eric looking out over Royal Basin
Mount Deception
Mount Deception
Looking back to Surprise Basin. Clark on the right, Johnson on the left
Looking back to Surprise Basin. Clark on the right, Johnson on the left
Eric descending into Royal Basin
Eric descending into Royal Basin
Down towards Royal Lake and Gray Wolf Ridge
Down towards Royal Lake and Gray Wolf Ridge

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raising3hikers
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raising3hikers
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PostSat Nov 17, 2018 10:31 pm 
thanks for the great trip, jake! it was a great idea to take advantage of the poor and lack of snow pack in the Olympics. although it was a cold few hours of rest before heading out on the hike, the objective made up for the lack of sleep to keep me motivated. we heard an owl along the trail hooting for a good 5 minutes, which I thought was a cool experience even though we couldn't see it. even as we headed uphill, we put extra layers on because of the cold. the trail is in great shape all the way up to royal basin. royal lake had about an inch of ice covering it. -surprise basin was surprisingly super icy -the ledges were snow free -the north side cracks were snow filled and slick but doable (glad we had a rope) -a nice summit stay naming peaks and snacking
johnson and clark above a frozen tarn
johnson and clark above a frozen tarn
icy surprise basin
icy surprise basin
clark register
clark register
grey wolf ridge
grey wolf ridge
jake downclimbing the summit
jake downclimbing the summit
looking back up the route to the summit
looking back up the route to the summit
deception and a frozen creek
deception and a frozen creek
another icy creek
another icy creek

Eric Eames
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge



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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
PostSat Nov 17, 2018 11:06 pm 
Cool area and a fun climb. One day? dizzy.gif
raising3hikers wrote:
johnson and clark above a frozen tarn
johnson and clark above a frozen tarn
test

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Brushbuffalo
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Brushbuffalo
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PostSat Nov 17, 2018 11:22 pm 
Nice work, guys! I was looking out toward the Olympics today from Sumas Mtn and the thought occurred to me that one or both of you would be enjoying this beautiful day somewhere or other. Little did I know you would be over there. Eric, it must have been cold indeed. I don't see you wearing your trademark, your Seahawks cap! Surely they make one with earmuffs. wink.gif

Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
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puzzlr
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puzzlr
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PostSat Nov 17, 2018 11:46 pm 
Wow, that crux section you rapped on looks way harder with the cracks filled in with snow. It was scary enough on a nice summer day that we looked around a while thinking we were off route, but no, that's the way.

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silence
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silence
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PostSun Nov 18, 2018 7:34 am 
Nice! And, so beautiful up there right now.

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge



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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
PostSun Nov 18, 2018 9:13 am 
puzzlr wrote:
Wow, that crux section you rapped on looks way harder with the cracks filled in with snow. It was scary enough on a nice summer day that we looked around a while thinking we were off route, but no, that's the way.
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. The guidebook calls it class 3 -- class 3 my ass! moon.gif I'm still getting my arms around Eric and Jake doing the route car-to-car in one day.

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IanB
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IanB
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PostSun Nov 18, 2018 9:50 am 
Nice! The low-angle light really adds some striking definition to the photos of Clark and Johnson.

"Forget gaining a little knowledge about a lot and strive to learn a lot about a little." - Harvey Manning
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geyer
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geyer
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PostMon Nov 19, 2018 10:11 am 
Wow so dry! eek.gif looks like they'll finally be getting their winter coats on Wednesday and Thursday

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iron
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iron
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PostMon Nov 19, 2018 10:32 am 
definitely a good time and spot for that rope. DIYsteve: i think the bulk of the climb after the ledge is CL3. the ledge itself is CL2 with 4th class exposure (when snow-free and dry)

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Fletcher
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Fletcher
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PostMon Nov 19, 2018 10:47 am 
Very cool peak. Nice job guys!

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Stefan
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Stefan
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PostMon Nov 19, 2018 10:49 am 
Uh. Yeah. That looks hairier with your conditions. That sure put hair on your belly for man stuff!

Art is an adventure.
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Brian R
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Brian R
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PostMon Nov 19, 2018 11:04 pm 
Great read and photos. The Surprise Glacier lives!

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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Clark (Royal Basin, Olympics) - 11/17/18
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