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glenoid
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PostSun Jun 23, 2019 10:39 am 
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Having been laid up a year or so with knee issues, I decided to make gloves. Using Controlled Exposure patterns #45 (fleece and shelled fleece gloves) and #75 (shell overmitts and gloves) I have made over 70 pairs of fleece gloves of varying thickness's and colors. I have made numerous shelled overgloves for the fleece gloves out of Gore-Tex, leather, cordova and grip fabric (rubbery textured material for waterproof qualities). Lately I ventured into "shelled fleece lined gloves" with Gore_Tex backhands and leather palms for skiing at resorts.
pieces for a fleece glove
pieces for a fleece glove
cut out pieces for shelled fleece glove
cut out pieces for shelled fleece glove
shelled fleece glove prepped to sew
shelled fleece glove prepped to sew
Finished gore tex ,leather palmed, shelled, fleece lined glove
Finished gore tex ,leather palmed, shelled, fleece lined glove

I like to make two pairs of fleece gloves for each "shell overgloves" I sew. This allows you to dry one pair while you use the other on days out skiing backcountry or extended touring. Making the fleece out of different fabric thickness allows you to pick a fleece liner for the temperature you might encounter in winter or spring conditions.
cut out pieces for shell overglove
cut out pieces for shell overglove
XL size glove shell
XL size glove shell
Gloves I use for spring snowboarding
Gloves I use for spring snowboarding

Most of the Gore-Tex (3 ply) I use, I buy online. The rubber like grip fabric for the palms comes from Rockywoods.com. The leather I use is deerhide professionally tanned and dyed. The vast majority of the fleece I use comes from remanments sold at thrift stores.( A typical pair of just fleece gloves costs me about 50 cents to make.)
I really like the Controlled Exposure patterns. I make these gloves a bit different from the pattern directions, because of my own sewing preferences, but the patterns are quite detailed as to how to sew these. As each pattern produces a glove with curved fingers, you must sew finger inserts for each digit. It takes some practice to get the inserts (material on either side of a finger) correctly sewn, but it is worth the way the gloves fits when you are using them, such as gripping a ski pole or ice axe.
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meck
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PostSun Jun 23, 2019 4:09 pm 
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Very cool glenoid!  As a fellow hobbyist gear fabricator/repairer I really dig the pics of the custom gloves! My three attempts with fleece gloves turned out OK, though the curved fingers were all wonky (my overmits based on a 30 year old REI or OR design, turned out much better).  I've repaired a few other glove pairs (holes in fingers) by patching in thin cordura or other nylon materials.

A couple of questions:
1. What thickness leather do you recommend for the palms, and can a "normal" sewing machine punch through it?
2. Any recommendations of thread type? (I use Coats UltraD T-90 thread for my packs, usually some sort of thinner tough stuff high strength stuff for waterproof & fleece outerwear, and then generic fabric store stuff for misc small items)
3. Any pointers or best practices on how to assemble/sew together these types of gloves? (to include pattern piece preparation/marking, where to start stitching (fingertip or base of finger) etc.)

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glenoid
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PostMon Jun 24, 2019 1:21 pm 
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Hopefully this will help Meck.  The leather I use is from 2-3mm thick, soft deerhide that was given to me. (I haven't shopped for leather but I assume split cowhide would work). I sew it on my regular old kenmore sewing machine. I use regular 100% polyester Gutermann thread and a #90 regular needle, stitch length of 8 on my machine. If the leather side is down on the feed dogs when you are sewing it to Gore-Tex, it works better. I have larger #110 needles that I use with DB 92/T-90 thread for marine vinyl work with a walking foot, but so far the normal regular sewing thread seams fine. (No tear-outs...)
The regular sewing thread with a shorter stitch length works fine on the waterproof/breathable fabrics and the fleece. I do the shelled glove construction in steps, taking time to seam seal the seam lines as I go. All the gloves I sew use a 3/16th seam allowances. I trim all the seam allowances down further to lessen the bulk in the inside of the glove.
I had very wonky fleece gloves when I first started doing the fleece gloves. But with lots of practice they turn out well now. When I cut out the gloves I make very sure the greatest stretch of the polarfleece is properly aligned with the pattern markings. I cut one glove out at a time. I only mark the thumb placement lines and on the convex side of each finger insert I mark the center posistion that will correspond to the web of the backhand fingers. After I cut out the finger inserts I pin the right sides together in correct order (really can't make a mistake in their order of attachment if you are sure of the right side. If you mark on the right side the middle position attachment point, they make sense.) I mark the left glove parts with an I on the backside. This lets me not question if I am doing the correct layout procedure). For the next glove I turn the pattern (reverse it) on top of the right side of the fabric. Again mark the mid points on the finger insert convex side, pin them together (they can only go one way), then mark as the II glove.
finger inserts pinned just after cutting out.
finger inserts pinned just after cutting out.

I "prep" the gloves for sewing by sewing the thumb and attaching it to the glove. Then I sew the finger inserts together. I pin the mid point of the insert at the web of either the index/middle or the pinky/ring fingers. I then "tack" down the insert seam onto the middle of the fingertip. Then pin again at the web, sew the seam at the fingertip, continuing on. The pinning and tip sewing posistions the inserts correctly when I go to sew them together. The pinning allows the first finger insert you sew to land correctly on the backhand finger. I will start with the index or pinky finger depending on whether it is a right or left hand glove. In the picture you can see that the tip of the insert does not start at the middle of the fingertip like the rest of the fingertips do.(middle and ring). The pinky and index finger inserts start or finish away the the center of the finger of the backhand. (This is why the pattern doesn't show a placement mark for the insert on either the index or pinky finger)
The cuffs on the pattern seem too small to me. I cut them wider and longer for a fit I like.
I also do not make an inner fleece glove with velcro on it and on the inside of shell gauntlet gloves. I prefer to make a complete cuffed fleece glove that I wear inside the gaunlet.
Complicated sounding, but after a few more pairs all will be easy. (I would first master making the fleece gloves before I would tackle non stretchy fabric like Gore-Tex. It is harder to sew in my opinion.
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Brushwork
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Joined: 18 Aug 2018
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PostMon Jun 24, 2019 3:54 pm 
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Wow!  I used to sew a lot,  but that is one heck of a lot of work.   Good for you for finding something to do while waiting for the knees to mend.  Awesome !

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Cyclopath
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PostMon Jun 24, 2019 10:32 pm 
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This is incredibly cool!
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RichP
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PostWed Jun 26, 2019 7:05 am 
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That's great. I admire your handiwork.  up.gif

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cascadetraverser
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PostFri Jun 28, 2019 9:38 am 
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As the lucky recipient of this great handiwork, I am happy to report all these gloves work awesome and are warm!  Free too...Lucky me (and family).  Well done Bro!
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