[ozzy]

I got my buddy Bryan to take advantage of the weather on friday and hit up the cascade pass area for a much needed sick day! I had seen magic a few times and it just drew to me. I'd never been up cache col either and knew of it's splendor. So off we set in the wee hours of the AM from Tacoma, we arrived at the trailhead at 0700. We started at 0730 and made the pass around 0900ish. Id been here several times and still love it! We now had a pretty killer view of magic and pelton!! The traverse towards cache col was pretty cool, the views across the valley from el dorado to buckner were amazing! We made the cache glacier around 1000. It looked pretty gnarly from there, steep anyway. Once we got on the snow it was actually pretty mellow and the pons/axe just hitched a free ride! The snow was also in prime condition.

first view

pelton and magic

starting up mix up arm

traversing ever higher

cache glacier

starting up the snow

cache col above

Sahale and doubtful lk

Once topping out in the col we were in awe! The north face of Formiddable stood front and center! Wow what a sweet ass place! We weren't looking forward to dropping the 700ft to start the traverse to the magic/hurry up saddle but the scenery kept our weary minds at ease! We made cache col around 1130. The traverse to the saddle went rather easy and we stayed just under the cliff bands. Once at the saddle our jaws were dropping again!! The view down to trappers lake was sweeeet! From the saddle the route gets fun. We stayed on the rock the whole time with some class 3 mostly. We made the false summit and finally had our first glimpse of the imposing summit block! It looks big and bad for sure! We dropped north off the false summit down a rotten gully of sorts, downclimbed 75ft or so. Then we followed a nice ledge below the northside of the summit. Here there were some cool lookin marble type rocks, white in color towards the very top! The climb was pretty nice and soon we found ourselves on the airy summit at 1400!! These were supreme views indeed! The only bummer was there was no register to be found, i searched pretty well too. Whiskey was had and fulfilment attained, we sat there and soaked it all in for a couple hours!!

Bryan toppin out in the col

Formiddable

hurry up and kool aid lk

Bryan making his way on traverse

Trappers lk from saddle

starting up ridge

false summit

moves on ridge

gnarly block

Bryan workin way off false summit

ledges beneath summit

white rocks

arrival

spider and formiddable

cheers

We casually made our way back down the summit not wanting to go at all! The way back down went by pretty quick and we were greeted by a family of goats back at cash col!! I love those dudes! The bugs were never bad and we made the car around 2130 just before we had to don headlamps lol. So it was like a 14hr day, 13.5mi, and i think like 6000ft of gain. I cant wait to get back up in there again it was one of the coolest places I've been! Oh, and thanks Matt and B00 for the helpful trs! Another good day to be alive! Cheers fellow travelers!!

Goats at the col

ripsaw

the pass

[Gimpilator]

Awesome report, and good photos. Cheers!

[iron]

[awilsondc]

Looks awesome up there! Man, I really need to get out to that area of the North Cascades more. Gorgeous out that way! Good work.

[yukon222]

Great set of pics! Looks like you had a very good time up there. 👍