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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
8-3
Tricouni Peak - 6962'
My second Tricouni peak, but this one in BC. Went with Steven and Mel. We did a non-standard approach via High Falls Lake. We crossed over the south ridge and traversed north to join the standard route at the steep gully. Mossy wet scrambling ensued.
Tricouni High Falls Lake Tricouni far right standard approach lakes gully visible far left Cayley Fee, Brandywine Pelion, Ossa Icecap Peak Serratus, Tantalus Black Tusk, Castle Towers High Falls Lake Ashlu, way back there Cloudburst
8-4
Sun God Mountain – 7943'
North of Whistler is grizzly territory. I was anxious about hiking solo and not entirely convinced it was a good idea, even with bear spray. Hiked the trail up to the small lake south of Cerulean Lake. Continued eastward through meadows to the west ridge of Sun God. Minor easy scrambling.
Ronayne Sun God false summit Sun God Ronayne Seven O'Clock Goat above Tenquille Valley Longspur Sir Richard far distant, and Wedge group Sun God
Seven O'Clock Mountain – 7680'
Returned to the small lake and then up the east ridge of Seven O’clock.
Sun God Cerulean Lake Sun God, Birkenhead Ogre Lake, Seven O'Clock Bluevault Glacier Sampson Ogre Lake Rhododendron, Sugarloaf Elaho, Overseer, Spidery Chipmunk Whitecap Big Dog, Peak 2220m Beaujolais, Sockeye Horn, Dickson Sun God
8-5
Fuscian Peak – 7218’
Frances came to join me for an overnight trip. We hiked a mile of Cheakamus Lake trail to the Helm Creek trail and then left it to get onto Gentian ridge. Two high points on this ridge. Descended to the pass between Fuscian Peak and Gentian Peak where we dropped our overnight gear.
Black Tusk Panorama, Tantalus Helm Horn Castle Towers, Fuscian Peak Castle Towers Fuscian Peak Castle Towers
At this point we discussed whether to do Castle Towers this day or the next. I thought it might be too much, considering it would be a 9000 foot gain day, carrying heavy packs. I was also concerned about bushwhacking back to camp in the dark, but Frances wanted to keep going.
Polemoneium Ridge – 7543'
We descended a thousand feet to Gentian Pass and then went up the ridge to the summit of Polemoneium. You can’t go directly from Polemoneium to Castle Towers. Getting down off the south side of Polemoneium was a hassle, with steep choss gullies. We found a better traverse lower down on the way back.
Polemoneium
Castle Towers Mountain – 8780’
After ascending excessive amounts of large boulders, we came to the west summit. I could see some guys were doing a technical route on the main central peak. Steven had told me about a class 3 bypass ledge which traverses the very exposed north face. But first there’s the matter of getting off the west summit.
west summit climbers on the main central peak north face glacier Frances rappels down the west peak overlooking the west peak summit block above moat scramble finish
We descended an exposed diagonal ramp/rock ladder, class 3 and 4 with loose rock at the top. I set a 30 meter fixed line. We scrambled/rappelled down using ATC and backup prussiks. The north face ledge had snow on it as I had seen earlier in the day from Gentian Ridge, but fortunately the moat was wide enough for us.
Phyllis's Engine, Carr, Mamquam Mamquam, Spire Peaks Pitt
From the central peak, the east peak looks equally high. The BC peakbagging community has accepted the central peak as the highest and I was operating on that information. With more time we might have explored the east peak. However it was 5pm and time to get back to camp. During the night a bear passed within 30 feet of our tent, leaving tracks in the snow.
8-6
Gentian Peak – 7208'
We crossed the icy Helm Glacier and went up the northwest ridge.
the wall in the north Price, Tantalus, Garibaldi Lake Castle Towers Garibaldi, Frances, Price Guardian, Garibaldi, The Table
Panorama Ridge – 6998'
This peak is popular for good reason. Perhaps the best view of any peak in south BC with a trail to the summit. There were droves of people and we had fun talking to a young couple visiting from Germany.
Black Tusk
8-8
Mount Sampson – 9222'
Did my best to sooth my grizzly anxiety enough to get one more peak. Bear scat all around my camping area didn’t help. Exercised care not to spill any food onto sleep wear, leaving everything odorous in the car. The old northwest approach is a bad bushwhack now, requiring multiple days, but a south route is getting some recent action. Right off the bat it’s a bad bushwhack, but that doesn’t last long. Then 3000 feet of open slope with burned trees on the lower half. I ate some good huckleberries on the way up and down this section.
From the top of the first ridge I traversed the east side of Zorah peak on large talus. Crossed a glacier with a few crevasses opening up. The south gully and south face of this peak has a lot of loose rock. The scrambling is easy class 2 and 3, but with more people, you would have to exercise a lot of care. I was very happy to finally find some running water up high.
Sampson Luxuria, Delilah, Sessel Luxuria Delilah Sessel south gully and face Shulaps far distant Thiassi Athelstan, Stanley-Smith Glacier western false summit Dalgleish, Lilooet, Delta, Mu Manatee, Wahoo Tower Frozen Boot, Madhorse, Overseer, Spidery, Uriah's Heap, Pika (climbed these with Steven August 2017) Face, Faceless, Handcar Sloan after large talus traverse, exit through notch
On the return trip, within the last mile, I heard a strange chuffing noise 100 feet below me. 2 bears had heard me coming and were running away. They stopped to look. I called out to let them know I was a human and then a 3rd larger bear came out of the brush. This larger bear started moving directly toward me, so I yelled much louder and waved my arms, standing my ground. Mortality was on my mind. Is a single can of bear spray sufficient for 3 bears? When I roared, the two other bears stood up and we all stared at one another for a moment, without moving. Furthermore, these animals were still a bit aggravated and clearly startled by my sudden appearance in the berry patch, hence the running amok and continued chuffing.
2 of 3
They sort of regrouped and ran up an adjoining ridge together, keeping a close eye on me. As they started uphill, I started downhill. My last glance up at them revealed that they had crossed over onto my rib, but were continuing upwards, so I hoped. When I got back into the dense brush, just below the encounter, I made record time getting back to my car, despite slide alder, knee and chest high log piles, and invisible foot placements. I regret that neither of my two photos show the larger bear, but it all happened so fast and in that moment I lost my composure as a photographer.
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
you've been getting in some nice b.c. trips this year your TR's will be useful whenever I get up there
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Michael Lewis Taking a nap
Joined: 27 Apr 2009 Posts: 629 | TRs | Pics Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now) |
Excellent gimp! So beautiful up there. I should have a passport.
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BeardoMcGrath Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2018 Posts: 143 | TRs | Pics Location: Snohomish |
4 of us spent last week in the Slim Creek Headwaters/Griswold Pass area (west of Gold Bridge), and up high we could see the icy north slopes of Sampson far to the south!
Felt the same way about being in grizzly country, but despite almost a week up there we saw nothing more than some intimidating looking tracks.
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Thanks Eric
Get a passport Mike, and come with me.
You doing some peaks at Griswold Pass? That is some remote country.
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BeardoMcGrath Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2018 Posts: 143 | TRs | Pics Location: Snohomish |
Gimpilator wrote: | You doing some peaks at Griswold Pass? That is some remote country. |
Yes, we spent 6 days in that area in early August. Beautiful weather and wildflowers. We did some light scrambling but that area is really nice for alpine rambling. I'll get it together on the trip report some point soon, hopefully....
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