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ozzy The hard way
Joined: 30 Jul 2015 Posts: 476 | TRs | Pics Location: University place, wa |
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ozzy
The hard way
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Wed Sep 11, 2019 7:13 pm
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I've been wanting to get up to Boston basin and give Forbidden a shot the whole year. For the longest time I thought the summit could only be attained with the use of ropes until I found the east ridge(ledges) route described in the green Beckey! I think it says the route goes pretty much class3-4 all the way to said summit! I was hoping it wasn't an understatement lol! I had a partner in crime to accompany me along the little jaunt!🤘 Steve hadn't really bagged a peak all year but he's a good climber so I knew he'd be up to it. He didn't really know what he was in for lol. So we headed to the Boston basin trail. We arrived at 0800 and started shortly there after. We made it to the basin around 1000, damn!! Wow, just the basin was a worthy destination! We made our way up towards the basin at the bottom of forbidden. We crawled up slabs to the beginning of the first gully around 1130 and had some lunch. We were around 6600ft.
Steve and badass corrola stoked amazing, Boston basin cool little crossing j-burg looming up to boston and sahale getting closer to obj steve and j-burg astonishment almost lunchtime beginning of first gully is just above waterfall
So after lunch the plan was to gain the east ridge, just to the climbers left of the 8300ft gendarme. We stayed in gullies the most part travelling generally in a NE direction for a couple thousand feet. All snow was avoidable, travel was pleasant, and axe and pons caught a free ride again. Once around 8000ft you crest a rocky knoll and can see the gendarme. Up to this point it was rather casual and the scenery was amazing, Steve was stoked! We gained the ridge at 1500 to the left of the gendarme and holy sh##!!! The view to the north was astounding to put it lightly lol! The immensity of the boston glacier is beyond words!! I was almost more stoked for Steve, he has never been anywhere quite like this! It was quite fulfilling, but I knew what lied ahead lol!
steve comin up first gully dwindling unnamed glacier starting up second gully topping out in second gully, I think 8300ft gendarme to right boston and sahale from east ridge the boston glacier
From the gendarme we looked for a place to drop onto the north face. Steve's demeanor turned to a serious character lol! We dropped down a nasty gully with a little class 4 move at the top, it was the trickiest move up to this point. We dropped 80ft or so and exited the gully left when the downclimbing became hazardous. From here it was rather intimidating looking at the sheer steepness of the ledges and all the ribs we had to go up and over! It was pretty clear that we would be in a no fall zone for awhile! There are some cairns along the way that should keep you on route but it's easy to get back on route if you stray off, just be weary of holds. Steve wasn't completely certain that we would be able to weasel our way up but it worked out slowly. I had read R3H's TR beforehand so this instilled a little confidence, but he also makes everything sound like a walk in the park! We worked across the north face until we got to a wide gully about 400ft below the summit and just below the north ridge! From here the climbing was alotta class 4 with some class 3 thrown in there! We were both still on edge and worked the route nicely. The only real sketchy spot was about 15ft below the summit, a down sloping slab with minimal holds. Once we topped out it was pure exhilaration! Holy f### shitballs!!! The view of moraine lake, klawatti lake, the whole inspiration traverse!!! Goddamn I don't know how in the hell you beat those views!! The summit was rather precipitous and just big enough for the 2 of us. Better yet we had the whole mountain to ourselves. Only humans seen were descending the west ridge in the morning! I couldn't find a register so I shimmied up the other summit to the west and still didn't find one. Oh well. We chilled up there for an hour and I drank a little whiskey not knowing if it would be my last lol! Damn what a day to be alive!
dropping down to ledges route ahead holding on tight lol steve on ledges proper inspiration traverse area broad gully under summit with steve steve on side of north ridge pretty airy up there Steve did not move from that spot lol cheers
We made the summit around 1630 and made our way down around 1730. We were a little nervous about the down climb and wanted to be off the north face by dark at least. The climb down was probably easier as we could see a lot of ways that would go. It went off without a hitch and we made the 8300ft gendarme around 1830 just as clouds engulfed the summit and surrounding peaks. The nasty little gully was a little tricky to get out of. We stayed on the ridge for about 30mins until the clouds whited us out and then we descended in to the fading light. We enjoyed the moonlight and spotty glimpses of the milky way and stars the rest of the way to the car. It was a leisurely pace and we made it back at midnight. We were on cloud nine while back at the safe haven that was the corrola! Man! What a day! I still can't believe there is a scramble route up this behemoth! This route probably shouldn't be taken for granted, the exposure is real and it's not a beginner hike lol! Thanks R3H and Mr Beckey! What a sweet day to be wandering around the mountains! Cheers yall!
broad gully under summit bruckner, boston, sahale clouds moving in down the ledges exiting the ledges nasty little gully below east ridge last move to get up outta there we lived today!
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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awilsondc Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2016 Posts: 1324 | TRs | Pics
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You've outdone yourself Ozzy! My jaw dropped a little when I saw a Forbidden Peak report with your name next to it, knowing you don't do roped climbs. Stoked to see you bag this beast! Well done!
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olderthanIusedtobe Member
Joined: 05 Sep 2011 Posts: 7708 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
Cool! Years ago I climbed the West Ridge w/ a buddy, we descended the East Ridge ledges. The descent was just a blur, my feet hurt and I just wanted to get down. I don't even remember that great view of the Boston Glacier. Thanks for capturing it.
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Kascadia Member
Joined: 03 Feb 2014 Posts: 651 | TRs | Pics
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Kascadia
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Wed Sep 11, 2019 8:33 pm
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Spectacular photos, spectacular trip! Long ago, we came over Sharkfin Col to the Boston Glacier, traversed over to the North Ridge (NE) of Forbidden, crossed it and rapped down to the Forbidden Glacier. We then came up that snow/ice face to the North Ridge and ran it up to the summit. That was an incredibly aesthetic climb, your pics on the ridge brought it back. Great work, bold too!
It is as though I had read a divine text, written into the world itself, not with letters but rather with essential objects, saying:
Man, stretch thy reason hither, so thou mayest comprehend these things. Johannes Kepler
It is as though I had read a divine text, written into the world itself, not with letters but rather with essential objects, saying:
Man, stretch thy reason hither, so thou mayest comprehend these things. Johannes Kepler
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2344 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
beautiful pics! so cool you went the east ledges route also like steve's hat! go hawks
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Jake Robinson Member
Joined: 02 Aug 2016 Posts: 521 | TRs | Pics
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Really cool to see a report for this route! Can't believe you had Forbidden Peak to yourselves on a good weather day! So nice up there
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veronika Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2010 Posts: 3015 | TRs | Pics Location: On the road |
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veronika
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Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:10 pm
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Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping
I may not have anyone rocking my world right now but, I don't have anyone messing it up either.
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uww Member
Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Posts: 318 | TRs | Pics
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uww
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Wed Sep 11, 2019 10:15 pm
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Now that's a good day! Nice job!
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mtn.climber Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1203 | TRs | Pics Location: The Lost Horizon |
Just freakin WOW!!
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Thu Sep 12, 2019 12:44 am
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That’s one way to do it! Cheers.
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Bronco Member
Joined: 20 Jun 2010 Posts: 134 | TRs | Pics
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Bronco
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Thu Sep 12, 2019 9:21 am
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Great photos and stoke! Why the aversion to learning rope work? It opens up so many more routes for you.
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
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ozzy The hard way
Joined: 30 Jul 2015 Posts: 476 | TRs | Pics Location: University place, wa |
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ozzy
The hard way
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Thu Sep 12, 2019 3:09 pm
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Thank y'all for the awesome comments and help over the years!! As for the route taken, it was a lot of fun! It was a bunch of solid class 3-4 and pretty easy to avoid all the loose sh##. If I had rope knowledge sure I probably would have taken a different route just to say i did it but this is probably the fastest and easiest way to tackle this monster. I do like to travel light too and ropes/gear add weight, I need every advantage I can get lol! In the future i do wanna add ropes into the mix but for now I'll go up anyway I can! Cheers!
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
“I don’t know what’s gonna happen, but I wanna have my kicks before the whole shithouse goes up in flames”-Mr Mojo Risin
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Thu Sep 12, 2019 3:31 pm
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PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Brushbuffalo Member
Joined: 17 Sep 2015 Posts: 1887 | TRs | Pics Location: there earlier, here now, somewhere later... Bellingham in between |
I wouldn't mix this
ozzy wrote: | cheers
With this!
down the ledges |
But to each their own preference!
ozzy wrote: | dwindling unnamed glacier |
Those slabs were ice covered mere moments ago ( geologically speaking). They will be again but probably not for a while ( geologically speaking). 🔄
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
zimmertr
Passing rocks and trees like they were standing still
zimmertr
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