[D. Inscho]

After the high country became snow-covered and cold with slush, it was time to hit the coast. We wanted wild shoreline and the ability to travel with my steadfast companion Bodhran. The Juan de Fuca trail seemed to meet all those requirements. It is NW of Victoria on Vancouver Island, within view of the stately Olympic range.

Backpacking the coast

Tide pools

High perch

One of my favorite parts of this trip was the journey to get to the trail head: A quick trip across the border; catch the ferry to Swartz Bay from Tswwassen (saw a strong whale spout during passage); the scenic and quiet West Coast road through the towns of Sooke, Shirley, and Jordan River. We timed it during the Canadian Thanksgiving weekend so made ferry reservations well in advance. Traffic was a non-issue.

Shipwreck art

Cobble

Turning the corner

The Juan de Fuca trail offers several access points allowing customization according to ambition, vacation, and ability. We accessed at Sombrio Beach, also popular destination for cold water surfers. And indeed they were abundant, but quite localized and easy to get beyond.

Camp one

Angled light

Within reach of the tides

Coast time

Mussel bed

Nothing but green

Yielding to sand

This trail has been referenced as a training ground for the more rigorous West Coast Trail. I would agree in that it features suspension bridges, stairs, bear boxes, pit toilets, and elaborate boardwalks. It also has the more familiar coastal amenities like rugged and varied beach travel, mud holes, and tidal cutoffs. The price is more affordable though at $10 CAD/day per person. Enforcement was evident.

Juan de Fuca trail

Trail suspense

Coastal fall

Coastal trail

Golden hour

We enjoyed convenient afternoon low tides and mostly dry weather. Camp envy led us to relocate further SE on Sombrio, though camp one was quite a scenic beach situation. Three nights allowed us ample time to explore the overland trails, headlands, slot waterfall, and tide pools at leisure. Unfortunately, one of the butane canisters that I grabbed for the trip was incompatible with my stove, so we spent one morning foraging in Port Renfrew for more gas, and breakfast at a charming little cafe. The hike out only took 15 minutes.

Low tide dazzle

Admiring the falls

Between tides

Urchin

Out with the tides

Magic carpet

Beware of the day coons out there. They will dash down from the impenetrable salal scrub at shoreline and nab food items. I lost a peanut butter tube to one before getting wise. The crows are wise too, being the Air Force contingent of pilfering-class wildlife. Bodhran was helpful in defending the food ramparts.

Camp two

Morning rays

Dusk

There was plenty to explore and enjoy out there. I suspect I will be going back for more whenever I need a dose of coastal tidewater.

Quiet when the tide's low

[IanB]

Looks just fantastic! Thank you for sharing your photos!

[Damian]

Very nice report. Great photography.

[Waterman]

Visit during the minus tides in July. The tide pools are quite extensive at Botanical Beach, just outside of Port Renfrow.

[ChrisSJI]

What a beautiful place! Looks like this could make for a good family hike. For our youngins.

[D. Inscho]

Glad you liked the report. There are several access points and options for ability level.

[Backpacker Joe]

Beautiful pics D. Thanks for posting.

[HermitThrush]

Love your reports. Thanks for sharing.