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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



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Mid Fork Rocks
PostSat Jun 27, 2020 6:20 pm 
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On June 22 Bryan and I climbed the northernmost of the Galleon triplet of peaks. This completed the three "masts" of the Galleon for me. All three peaks are within 50' of elevation.

10/04/2014 5283' Galleon main peak
04/17/2016 5240'+ Pumpkinseed Point and Galleon South
06/22/2020 5260'+ Galleon North (this report)

This peak is aptly named. I'll repeat what I wrote in an earlier TR: The first recorded ascent of Galleon was by Jeff Howbert and "Matt" on July 16, 1995. In the August 1995 issue of Pack & Paddle Jeff wrote "The name was suggested by its profile on the topographic map: a long, bulky mass punctuated by three summits of nearly equal height." Given the abundance of mineral rich veins in the area (there are still 3 active crystal mining operations) and the commanding views from the summit, it's likely that a prospector probably climbed the peak earlier, but they didn't record that fact so Jeff and Matt get the credit.

Galleon Peaks (South, Main and North) from Horseshoe Lake
Galleon Peaks (South, Main and North) from Horseshoe Lake
Galleon Peaks from Floating rock in 2013
Galleon Peaks from Floating rock in 2013

So far I have not seen a report of climbing the north peak and the summit rocks looked undisturbed. It would be hard to climb the north and main peaks in the same trip because of the ruggedness of the ridge between them. We made a modest cairn, but did not leave a register.

The north peak is very steep on the west side in contrast to the main peak which is steep on the east side. We started at the Dingford Creek trailhead and took the boot trail up Goat Creek to Horseshoe Lake. Both trails have quite a few blowdown on them from last winter's storms, but someone was already clearing them on the Dingford Creek trail. There's also a scary washout just before Pumpkinseed Falls -- the trail is on a very steep slope here and seems to have new problems every year.

Our route to Galleon North via the boot trail by Goat Creek up to Horseshoe Lake
Our route to Galleon North via the boot trail by Goat Creek up to Horseshoe Lake
Some of the many blowdown on the Dingford Creek trail. Someone had previous cleared out some of the branches making them easier to pass. On the way out we noticed someone had been up this day with a chainsaw cutting out others.
Some of the many blowdown on the Dingford Creek trail. Someone had previous cleared out some of the branches making them easier to pass. On the way out we noticed someone had been up this day with a chainsaw cutting out others.
A bad washout on the Dingford Creek trail just before Pumpkinseed Falls. It's nervewracking to step on the rocks to get past it -- it seems like it might collapse more at any time.
A bad washout on the Dingford Creek trail just before Pumpkinseed Falls. It's nervewracking to step on the rocks to get past it -- it seems like it might collapse more at any time.
Pumpkinseed Falls
Pumpkinseed Falls
Waterfall on Goat Creek
Waterfall on Goat Creek
Goat Creek trail
Goat Creek trail

We took a break at Horseshoe Lake on some sunny rocks near the outlet and scouted out the rest of the route. A prominent rock buttress separates two basins west of the lake. We decided to go left of the buttress which turned out great. The upper basin contains a small tarn at the base of 700' cliffs directly below the main peak. We got on continuous snow in the lower basin and it continued all the way to the summit. All the terrain was moderate except the last 200' to the ridge where we used a hand line on the way down to avoid a slip into big melted out tree wells with 5' walls.

Traversing around Horseshoe Lake through big trees
Traversing around Horseshoe Lake through big trees
This is at the lower basin just west of Horseshoe Lake
This is at the lower basin just west of Horseshoe Lake
We picked this route left of a prominent rock buttress to ascend to the higher basin
We picked this route left of a prominent rock buttress to ascend to the higher basin
Climbing to the upper basin
Climbing to the upper basin
We started to get into continuous snow between the two basins. Conditions were good and it was a great way to get up here.
We started to get into continuous snow between the two basins. Conditions were good and it was a great way to get up here.
The small tarn at the base of the main Galleon Peak. This would not be a good route for climbing the main peak.
The small tarn at the base of the main Galleon Peak. This would not be a good route for climbing the main peak.
Above the upper basin the terrain steepened a bit but snow conditions were still excellent for booting up the slope
Above the upper basin the terrain steepened a bit but snow conditions were still excellent for booting up the slope
We reached the east ridge of Galleon North just below the summit. At first this rocky point looked like it might block us, but it was no problem to pass on the left.
We reached the east ridge of Galleon North just below the summit. At first this rocky point looked like it might block us, but it was no problem to pass on the left.
Passing by the rocky point, but this is a false summit
Passing by the rocky point, but this is a false summit
Looking along the final bit of ridge from the false summit to the real one
Looking along the final bit of ridge from the false summit to the real one

In his 2002 WTA Galleon report Mike Collins said "I have climbed dozens and dozens of the nearby peaks and Galleon affords views equal or exceeding the others for this area." I agree with that assessment, and the weather today was much better than on the trips to the other summits (the south peak doesn't have good views).

Bryan on the summit relaxing while I take many photos. It's amazing how pointed Kaleetan looks from this angle.
Bryan on the summit relaxing while I take many photos. It's amazing how pointed Kaleetan looks from this angle.
View down into the Middle Fork valley. Green Ridge and Hi-Low lake below. Teneriffe-to-Bessemer ridge above.
View down into the Middle Fork valley. Green Ridge and Hi-Low lake below. Teneriffe-to-Bessemer ridge above.
Treen from Galleon North. Dog Mountain on right.
Treen from Galleon North. Dog Mountain on right.
Bessemer on left, Garfield in the center
Bessemer on left, Garfield in the center
Garfield, Floating Rock and Treen. The long avalanche chute coming down from Floating Rock might be an interesting route under the right conditions.
Garfield, Floating Rock and Treen. The long avalanche chute coming down from Floating Rock might be an interesting route under the right conditions.

I hadn't noticed that big chute on Floating Rock before but when I got home I discovered Gabriel and Boo had taken it down from the summit on their way to Galleon which is pretty cool.
2012 Floating Rock, by Gabriel Deal
2012 Floating Rock, by Gabriel Deal
2012 Floating Rock, by Gabriel Deal
2012 Floating Rock, by Gabriel Deal

The descent went fast on the snow and then more tedious on the Goat Creek trail with several falls and close calls on slippery ground and over blowdown. Dingford Creek trail felt like a highway when we got to it and it wasn't long till we were back at the trailhead.

Descending through krumholz just below the summit
Descending through krumholz just below the summit
Just about to reach Horseshoe Lake again
Just about to reach Horseshoe Lake again
Goat Creek near the outlet from Horseshoe Lake. It temporarily splits into two channels here
Goat Creek near the outlet from Horseshoe Lake. It temporarily splits into two channels here
Crossing Goat Creek on the Dingford Creek trail. This is more water in Goat Creek than I've seen on all my previous trips here.
Crossing Goat Creek on the Dingford Creek trail. This is more water in Goat Creek than I've seen on all my previous trips here.
My favorite spot on the Dingford Creek trail which I call Cathedral Grove
My favorite spot on the Dingford Creek trail which I call Cathedral Grove

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nordique
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PostSat Jun 27, 2020 9:51 pm 
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Great photos of a beautiful area!  Thanks for the report and for naming all the peaks and lakes!
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neek
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PostSat Jun 27, 2020 10:54 pm 
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well done, sorry i couldn't join!
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Penquin
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PostSun Jun 28, 2020 10:37 am 
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Nice summary of our day!  Its really a beautiful area that doesn't get much traffic.  A couple days later I met the USF ranger who had come in behind us with the chainsaw.  Evidently he was camping up at Myrtle Lk that evening so that's why his truck was at the trailhead but we didn't see him.  I mentioned we had found one of his wedges but had left it there beside the trail.  He laughed and blamed his intern saying that he often did things like that.

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Type E
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PostSun Jun 28, 2020 4:41 pm 
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Nice to see a report from such a meaningful area . I was happy to see you reference Pumpkin Seed Point as when I climbed that via Green Ridge Lake I didn’t know That is what it’s conventional name was . I used that name in my trip report and am happy it is still being used

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 6669 | TRs
Location: Stuck in the middle
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Mid Fork Rocks
PostSun Jun 28, 2020 7:07 pm 
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Pumpkinseed is a good name for the lake, so it makes sense to tag a high point with it too. I'm always glad when someone doesn't name a lake "Green" or "Horseshoe" or any other generic name. This one is distinctive, and even has a basis in reality. But I always wonder how people who named these lakes could see the shapes without having any aerial views like we do in photographs, maps, and now Google Earth.

Pumpkinseed Lake compared to a real pumpkin seed
Pumpkinseed Lake compared to a real pumpkin seed

And Pumpkinseed is a real GNIS name. It's dated 1979 but I've seen that same date on many names and I think it was just when the old paper records were converted to a computerized database.

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NowIFly
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PostWed Jul 01, 2020 10:55 am 
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Another great TR, Monty! Sounds like a fun day. Well done on the possible first ascent!
And thanks for pointing out the neat gully route on Floating Road! Looks like it would be a cool way to tag the top of that one! Lets do it!
I can report that the Forest Service (?) has put a good dent in the clean up on the Dingford trail.
Kept the trip into Big Snow a cruiser. :-)
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silence
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PostWed Jul 01, 2020 3:42 pm 
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Nicely done! An area we yet to explore.

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 6669 | TRs
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
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Mid Fork Rocks
PostWed Jul 01, 2020 3:58 pm 
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NowIFly wrote:
I can report that the Forest Service (?) has put a good dent in the clean up on the Dingford trail.

I was at the Dingford trailhead on Tuesday and met one of the trail crew. Three people were up the Dingford Creek trail clearing that day, with chainsaws up to the ALW boundary and crosscut saws beyond that. Three others were working on the Middle Fork trail.

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Justus S.
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PostThu Jul 02, 2020 12:37 am 
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puzzlr wrote:
Just about to reach Horseshoe Lake again
Just about to reach Horseshoe Lake again

This picture reminds me of so many lower elevation adventures: brush, trees, spring snow..... Nice trip thanks for the write up.
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