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Bluebird
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 11:04 am 
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I've been eyeing Jack for years but had thought it would be too difficult for me, so I went to Crater twice and Little Jack once. I messaged Alden, knowing this was one of his few remaining Bulgers and just maaaybe he was headed there Labor Day weekend. He was! I met him at the TH Friday and we started hiking around 5pm, reaching Crater Lake to camp in about 2.5 hours.

The next morning, we set off after sunrise. The climb up Jack is serious business, in that it is a lot of work. First it's up over 1,000 feet, then down, then up, then down to the beautiful larch-rimmed Jerry Lakes, then up another 800 feet, down the 800 feet and then finally the big scramble up the loose cruddy pile of rocks to the summit. One snowpatch wasn't passable in the moat, so a crampon/axe traverse was reasonable here. Although there are a few cairns, there aren't necessarily a lot of them, so know your route info. There was one class 4 move on the way up that I preferred not to downclimb, so I was glad that I had carried a 30m rope and harness. The rap anchor was a little sketchy by my estimation, only one loop of accessory cord with a rap ring, while a large anchor with a bunch of old crusty looking slings was at the bottom of where you would rap. Not sure what the deal is there. I'd recommend bringing some new tat and a ring if the situation hasn't changed.

We reached camp again around dusk, so opted to sleep there again instead of continue on. In the morning, Alden hiked out for another trip and after a long conversation with a man camped at the lake, I embarked on a long walk with my mountaineering gear towards Devil's Park. I enjoyed the beautiful scenery on the rolling trail to Devil's Park, where i found a good water source near a shelter and took a long break, filtering 4 liters of water and eating lunch. I continued uphill, then down a scree slope that may bother some hikers, but counted as an excellent climber trail! Although no water, there were some beautiful places to bivy with a view of Jack if you carry water. The next really good water was a few miles away, both at 5200 elevation and again around 5800 on the climb towards the long traverse towards Devil's pass. I filled up my whole 3.5 liters at a beautiful sunny creek crossing around 5200 so I was a little disappointed to find a good running creek 600 feet higher. 

The route had lots of up and down and I was tired from having climbed 11k feet in my heavy pack over the previous 1.5 day. I moved slow by my estimation so didn't reach Devil's Dome until about 5pm. I had enough water left to stay there and not descend the .5 mile to water so I decided to stay and enjoy sunset with a view over Jack.... in a way, my victory lap around Jack after climbing him. At this point I turned on my inreach for my nightly message check. I was absolutely stunned and gutted to learn the Jake had died the previous day... hence his non-response to my check-ins from the previous day. Shaken, I could hardly eat. I was too exhausted to hike the 24 miles in the dark, so I opted to try and sleep and leave when I got cold in my bivy. I messaged his parents and said I would hike out as soon as I can.

Chilled, shivering, exhausted and heartbroken, I set off on the trail around 5am by headlamp. I managed to eat a large handful of gummy bears. I didn't bother to filter water, filling my bottle in any well-running streams. 7.5 hours later I was back to the landslide that took out the Canyon Creek bridge. The bridge is totally gone, btw. If you are coming in this direction, he best ford location requires some minorly tedious climbing on a bootpath through the landslide.  Then the ford is easy, at this point I didn't care about my feet so I plunged across in my shoes and socks.

I may be the first person to scramble Jack and then do a victory loop around the peak on the Devil's Dome loop.
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Alden Ryno
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 11:09 am 
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Thank you writing up a report, Selena!

It was a privilege to be able to climb with you again smile.gif
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Bsaimo
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 1:53 pm 
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Nice work guys!  Any pics of the 4th classy section that you opted to bring the rope for?
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Bluebird
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 2:03 pm 
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Sorry, I don't think we have a photo for it. It was really only one move, but it was awkward enough that I didn't want to downclimb it, given that there was really only one good hold and a bit high up for my short-self. Alden downclimbed it with no trouble.
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neek
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 2:21 pm 
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Bluebird wrote:
One snowpatch wasn't passable in the moat, so a crampon/axe traverse was reasonable here

Yes - apparently someone fell in the moat that day and had to abort.  On Sunday we followed the bootpath that you (presumably) and others established.  Dumped the crampons/axe after that.

I didn't get a picture of the 4th class step leading up to the chimney either but yeah it was a little awkward to downclimb.

Thanks for the report.
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Stefan
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 2:41 pm 
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Injinjis rock!

I can see this was a difficult report to write given what has happened.

--------------
Art is an adventure.
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Bsaimo
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PostTue Sep 08, 2020 4:46 pm 
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I'm so sorry that I hadnt read the second part of your trip report and learned about your loss before I posted my reply asking for beta earlier.  I was saddened to hear about Jake.  I didn't know him personally, but I certainly benefited from the trip reports and comments he posted. Sorry again.
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GregSlayden
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PostWed Sep 09, 2020 2:43 pm 
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Hi, Bluebird,

I believe that my friend Bob and I had a brief conversation with you at Crater Lake on Sunday morning, after your Jack climb.  You warned us about loose rock on the route and then we took off up the trail.  I wish we had stopped to talk longer.

Both Bob and I knew Jake and were devastated to learn the news when we got down.  Jake had once offered to help Bob climb Jack Mountain by hauling his pack up for him, but instead just the two of us went as a twosome on short notice.  An amazing coincidence that we were all there. . .

Please accept my profound condolences on a devastating loss.  Jake was a good one and will be missed by everyone.
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GregSlayden
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PostWed Sep 09, 2020 3:00 pm 
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Bsaimo:
Here's a photo what I believe is the "4th class step".  It was hard to get a good photo of it, it is about 8 feet high and is roughly to the right of the red line in this photo: 
And here is the "3rd class chimney" just above that:
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Bsaimo
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PostWed Sep 09, 2020 3:17 pm 
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Thanks!
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Alden Ryno
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PostThu Sep 10, 2020 5:07 am 
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Greg,
Your pictures above are excellent at portraying the more technical steps. Thank you for snapping them. I tried to look through my images for bsaimo and, unfortunately, only had images of the "4th class" step from a I've with Selena's head/helmet.

I imagine if Selena and I had known that it was you and Bob with whom we spoke Sunday morning, then we'd have perked up a bit more.  hihi.gif

Congratulations on your summit!

Was Bob able to make adage "the third time's the charm" come true?
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neek
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PostThu Sep 10, 2020 5:19 am 
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Alden Ryno wrote:
Was Bob able to make adage "the third time's the charm" come true?

We ran into Bob around 3pm Sunday coming back down from the Crater saddle.  Sounds like he turned around somewhere on the unstable rubble that was the Jerry Glacier.  We chatted for a bit; it was an honor to meet such a legend.
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Mike Collins
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PostThu Sep 10, 2020 6:34 am 
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neek wrote:
Sounds like he turned around somewhere on the unstable rubble that was the Jerry Glacier

Walking on the ball-bearing gravel on top of the glacier exposed slabs was the trickiest part of climbing Jack for me. I can see why he was uneasy.
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Andy D.
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PostThu Sep 10, 2020 7:51 am 
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Thanks for the report! I remember taking a refreshing post-climb swim in Jerry Lakes, a lovely spot for sure. Congrats to Alden for tagging another Bulger!

So sorry for your loss, what a tragedy. I hadn't met Jake yet but have always enjoyed his trip reports and totally impressed by his accomplishing the Bulgers so young.
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