Forum Index > Trip Reports > Monster-Sized Trees and the Record-Holding Alaska Yellow Cedar on the Big Creek Trail
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lcometto
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lcometto
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PostWed Jun 09, 2021 7:23 am 
The Olympic National Park brochure for the Lake Quinault area indicates that the Big Creek Trail emanating from the north side of the lake, contains the largest Alaska yellow cedar about six miles from the trailhead. As a big tree hunter engaged in a multi-year project to document the National Park’s ancient forests, I knew I had to see it. My project can be found here, by the way: https://www.lucascometto.com/cascadia-olympic-peninsula There isn’t much information about this trail other than it leads to a series of small ponds, but I did find a 2008 post on NWHikers.net by raising3hikers that mentioned massive trees in addition to the yellow cedar: https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7969847. Given that it’s been approximately 12 years since that post, I felt the trail needed a fresh visit. Armed with minimal info, I set off at first light to give myself enough time to bushwhack if I spotted some interesting trees. The first part of the hike moves around a swampy area with tons of mud to navigate through and around.
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
At around mile two, the hike begins to climb and as mentioned in the 2008 post, the trees really explode in size. The western red cedars and Douglas firs of this area are very impressive. Giant trees flank the trail and some of them near or exceed 8 feet in diameter. I was blown away by a couple of cedars that look to be approximately 500 years-old and their bizarre shapes and growth were very photogenic. I found the largest trees to be between miles two and three in the hike.
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
Big Creek Trail
At four miles, the trail crosses the Big Creek and the bridge that used to provide access has been out for several years. The river ford is about knee deep and straightforward, even for early June spring runoff. As the hike begins to climb northwest, away from the Creek, the forest changes again. On this side of the water, hemlock and yellow cedar dominate. Between 4.5 and 5.5 miles into the hike, one encounters an astonishing Alaska yellow cedar grove – some of the largest that I’ve seen. It culminates at the record-holder next to a sign offering its measurements – 12 feet in diameter, 37’ 8 ½” in circumference, and 120 feet high.
Record Alaska Yellow Cedar, Big Creek Trail
Record Alaska Yellow Cedar, Big Creek Trail
Record Alaska Yellow Cedar, Big Creek Trail
Record Alaska Yellow Cedar, Big Creek Trail
Unfortunately, the trail beyond this point got progressively snowier, including the lakes where the snow was still high. Regardless, my mission was to see the giant trees and having reached the champion, I headed back satisfied with the adventure.

Portfolio: www.lucascometto.com

GaliWalker
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coldrain108
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coldrain108
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PostWed Jun 09, 2021 8:56 am 
That was my very first backpack trip in the Olympic Park, back in 1988. I recall that the bridge you mention was hanging all wonky back then. I'm pretty sure we had to wade. Huge trees for sure. We did the hike around the 4th of July and ran into solid snow about 30 minutes past 3 lakes area. Being a newbie to snow travel in Washington I turned around and went back the way I came, we were planing on doing it as a loop coming down the Elip Creek trail. I have very fond memories of the steep wooded ridges, and the frog symphony at 3 Lakes.

Since I have no expectations of forgiveness, I don't do it in the first place. That loop hole needs to be closed to everyone.
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GaliWalker
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostWed Jun 09, 2021 11:05 am 
All your photos are great! They really capture the majesty of those trees. up.gif

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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puzzlr
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostWed Jun 09, 2021 11:27 am 
Very nice. We were at Lake Quinault this spring and were amazed at the many large trees on the local Quinault Loop trail (near the lodge) and on the way up to Pony Bridge. But they were nothing like these. And you've mastered taking photos of big trees -- that's hard to do. I know, having failed many times :-)

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lcometto
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lcometto
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PostWed Jun 09, 2021 12:56 pm 
coldrain108 - I often think about how awesome it would be have hiked these PNW trails 30 (or more) years ago. I bet the hikes felt so much more isolated back then. Not to mention no smartphones! GaliWalker and puzzlr - thank you for the kind words! The trick to photographing the large trees is to always shoot them in cloudy weather. Makes for the best light.

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coldrain108
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coldrain108
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PostWed Jun 09, 2021 3:35 pm 
lcometto wrote:
I bet the hikes felt so much more isolated back then. Not to mention no smartphones!
Yeah, we spent part of our Honeymoon in 1990 on the High Divide in the Oly's. It was midweek but still we had the whole area to ourselves - the only other person we saw was the ranger. Now its 24/7 from July through Sept packed to the gills - and no rangers = free for all. The lack of cell phones is one that really gives me warm fuzzy memories. 12 day trips in the Big Horns/Sierras/Olys, no contact at all with anyone. It was just so cool. A whole different experience. After the 2nd day you come to grips with knowing there is no way of getting any outside info, so you can just completely forget about any of it. One trip we completely lost track of the date and the day of the week - primal living!

Since I have no expectations of forgiveness, I don't do it in the first place. That loop hole needs to be closed to everyone.
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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostWed Jun 09, 2021 5:07 pm 
For several years we would do the Elip Creek loop in late October as a long day hike around 20 mi. We always admired the huge trees and the record Alaska Cedar. Once a pacific storm came in and wad to turn back just before big creek where a seasonal waterfall made the trail impossible. On the way up the ridge huge trees were crashing all around us and we had to cower under a huge Sitca Spruce log that bridged the trail until the front passed. eek.gif eek.gif eek.gif

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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Scaler
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Scaler
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PostThu Jun 10, 2021 7:54 am 
Icometto, Thanks for the report on a great hike. About 10 years ago A friend and I did this hike to see the big Alaska Cedar. By the time we got to the Alaska Cedar grove it was getting late and we were tired and had to hike out so we photographed and looked at the very big tree and then headed out. I have often wondered if the is a bigger Alaska Cedar in that grove. The big tree is right next to the trail. Due to the remoteness of the grove could there be a bigger tree away from the trail? As you noted this trail is a great place to see large Doug Fir, Western Red Cedar, Western Hemlock, and Alaska Cedar as the trail elevation rises. Thanks again for a great write up.

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lcometto
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lcometto
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PostThu Jun 10, 2021 8:09 am 
Malachai Constant - that sounds terrifying. Glad you made it out ok! Scaler - that's my suspicion. I bet there is a larger one somewhere in that grove before the lakes. I did some bushwhacking to a giant, healthy Alaska yellow cedar that I saw from the trail but it didn't turn out to be as big as the record-holder.

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