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xrg
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xrg
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 11:39 am 
I'm sure it's been climbed, but I can't seem to find any beta on the North and Middles Gothic peaks. This past weekend we went up Gothic peak and since we made it sooner than expected, we decided to explore the other peaks nearby. We made our way past the middle one, it didnt look like there was an easy way up. However, the north peak looked like there could be a moderate way up. Once we got to the base of north peak, we tried heading up the gully between the north peak and tinier sub peak and then attempted climbing it up the shoulder. But alas there was no way up. We then tried going head on up the obv gully on the north peak (pic attach below). This had about a 15-20ft low 5th step and then some not so nice class 3 moves. I stopped about ~40 ft from the top because i felt uncomfortable about the downclimb, and the fact that the heather near the top seemed slippery. The scramble up had nice hand holds, but the slope felt like it was trying to throw me off the mountain.

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olderthanIusedtobe
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 12:48 pm 
Many years ago I climbed 3 of those satellite peaks by Gothic. There was snow covering most of the slabs below them at the time. I don't really remember specifics about the route I chose. I would guess it was mostly class 3/4, but like I said it's been a long time. I used to be much bolder with climbing, I might pass on it now. There was a summit register on one of them, with very infrequent entries.

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Schroder
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 1:13 pm 
Those are Castle Rocks. I don't remember any difficulty in the traverse from Gothic across them. The approaches are much easier early in the summer with snow cover and there are usually snow ramps that go fairly high on the rock.

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xrg
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 4:01 pm 
Thanks guys! Yes, it was quite easy to traverse across and get to the base. Im surprised it doesnt see too many ascents. The peak next to Gothic esp looks iconic. Hope to come back one day and back one of them.

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Schroder
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 5:17 pm 
What I meant was a climbing traverse of the three. That used to be a regular of the Everett Mountaineers. Your red line is the easiest route on the right Castle and the left Castle is more from the left side as I recall.

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xrg
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PostMon Sep 13, 2021 5:20 pm 
yikes, I dont think i'd ever attempt a traverse. thanks for the beta, i'll go give it a shot next time Im there.

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