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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 12:59 am 
Tim Andersen and the Kirk girls with the catch of the day Queets 1954 photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
Tim Andersen and the Kirk girls with the catch of the day Queets 1954 photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:00 am 
Q.04 set Victoria Heemstra graciously provided this image of Andrews Barn, taken during the mid-late 1980s.
Andrews Barn - Queets Valley - mid-late-1980s - photo courtesy V. Heemstra
Andrews Barn - Queets Valley - mid-late-1980s - photo courtesy V. Heemstra
Of all the structures that once existed in the Queets Valley, only the barn at the George Anderson homestead remains standing.
George Anderson barn - Queets Valley 102514 - photo courtesy Jim Hoare
George Anderson barn - Queets Valley 102514 - photo courtesy Jim Hoare
(photo courtesy Jim Hoare - used with permission)
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 03
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 03
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 02
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 02
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 01
George Anderson homestead barn Queets Valley Olympic National Park Oct 2018 01
During the winter of 2018-2019, the last extant structure remaining in the Queets Valley from the original homesteaders of "Evergreen" collapsed.
George Anderson Homestead - Queets Valley - Olympic National Park 051519 02
George Anderson Homestead - Queets Valley - Olympic National Park 051519 02
George Anderson Homestead - Queets Valley - Olympic National Park 051519 05
George Anderson Homestead - Queets Valley - Olympic National Park 051519 05

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:05 am 
Kloochman Rock Lookout - Queets Valley Originally constructed in 1934 by Wilbur and Louise Northup during their honeymoon after they were married on September 29, 1934. Wilbur used a jackhammer to flatten the top of the rock, at an elevation of 3356 feet, the highest point along Queets Ridge west of Pelton Peak. The structure was torn down in 1957 because it had deteriorated. (Kelty 1995) Kloochman straddles the NPS/NFS boundary, but the lookout was in ONF. Today all that remains at Kloochman is a steel framed helicopter pad. (Kirk 2014b)
Kloochman Rock Lookout - Queets Valley - photo courtesy Mary Ann Shaube Lujan - NPS photo
Kloochman Rock Lookout - Queets Valley - photo courtesy Mary Ann Shaube Lujan - NPS photo

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:05 am 
Spruce Bottom Shelter - Queets Valley
Spruce Bottom Shelter - Queets Valley - 1953 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
Spruce Bottom Shelter - Queets Valley - 1953 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
Spruce Bottom Shelter was originally constructed in 1928 at a cost of $196.00. It was destroyed in 1976. Cause was attributed to "accidental visitor fire" (Kaune 1976; Olympic National Park 1981) I have some vivid childhood memories of my family’s annual trip into the Olympics and the Spruce Bottom Shelter. The Spruce Bottom Shelter was located five miles from the trailhead on the north (west) bank of the river, about fifteen feet south of a pair of enormous Sitka Spruce, which grow from a common point. There is a saddle between the two trees (where they join) about four or five feet off the ground. The site where the shelter stood is now covered with snowberry about four to five feet tall. The original site of the shelter was about 200 feet south of the present day “Spruce Bottom Camp,” a well- established hardened campsite that is located just off the trail and is surrounded by a small circle of large spruce. There was a rock fire ring in front of the shelter. There were bunks in the shelter, built of split spruce. Overnight visitors peeled the moss off the surrounding maples to serve as padding under their sleeping bags, which we usually found infested with mice and vermin – the primary reason my mother Ellida hated Spruce Bottom Shelter. My mother said there was a privy behind the shelter as well, although I do not remember it. She packed a glass bottle of Lysol up there to wash the privy. I caught my first trout in front of Spruce Bottom Shelter in 1958, using a single egg and a 7-foot bamboo fly rod. My little sister Lise’ and I would construct small stone pens near the water’s edge so we could keep the tiny trout we caught as pets. My father made us turn them loose. (Kirk 2014a)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:06 am 
* click on thumbnails for full-size images * Smith Place - Queets Valley George Albert Shaube constructed a small cabin on the Queets River in 1923 where he lived with his wife Alta (nee Northup) until 1929, when he sold his claim to Oscar Smith of Tacoma. He moved down to the Killea Guard Station so his son Lorne could attend school. Michael Lujan graciously provided the photos of his Grandfather, George, and the cabin under construction in 1923.
George Albert Shaube - 1891-1967 - Port Angeles, Washington 1956
George Albert Shaube - 1891-1967 - Port Angeles, Washington 1956
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley 1923
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley 1923
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley 1923
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley 1923
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley - Alta (Northup) Shaube at left with son Lorne - 1923
George Shaube homestead cabin Queets Valley - Alta (Northup) Shaube at left with son Lorne - 1923
(photos courtesy M. Lujan - used with permission) (photo of George Shaube in Port Angeles may be from 1953. awaiting confirmation on date. 10/03/16 BK) (first photo of cabin under construction shows L to R: Fred Grindle, Ross Cooper, and George Shaube) == Mr. Larry Vaughan of Des Moines, Washington, graciously provided the photos of his Grandmother, Marion V. Wood (nee Granstrom.) She married Harold Wood on June 19, 1929, in Tacoma, at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Oscar Smith. They lived east of Montesano, near Brady, for the next thirty years and then retired to Olympia for ten years. After her marriage to Harold Wood, they spent the summer at Oscar Smith's cabin (Smith Place) on the Queets River.
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of southwest corner of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of southwest corner of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view looking east - L to R woodshed, bunkhouse, original Shaube structure, Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view looking east - L to R woodshed, bunkhouse, original Shaube structure, Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view north of barn - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view north of barn - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of southeast corner interior of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of southeast corner interior of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of northeast corner interior of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view of northeast corner interior of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - two women holding fish in front of porch - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - two women holding fish in front of porch - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view west from vicinity of Smith Place - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - view west from vicinity of Smith Place - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - Marion V. Wood on horse - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - Marion V. Wood on horse - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - Marion V. Wood in front of fireplace on north wall of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - Marion V. Wood in front of fireplace on north wall of Smith addition - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - Harold Wood at left - barn in background - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Smith Place - Queets Valley - ca. 1929 - Harold Wood at left - barn in background - photo courtesy L. Vaughan
Wood-Granstrom wedding 06/19/29
Wood-Granstrom wedding 06/19/29
(photos courtesy Marion V. Wood, Larry Vaughan - used with permission) (* notes on photos above: This set of photographs was original sent to me by Mrs. Marion V. Wood of Des Moines, Washington about 2003 or 2004. I was unfortunately unable to follow up with an in-person interview. There appears to have been some confusion about a couple of the photos: the photograph of the man with the three women holding the fish is most certainly Harold Wood, and not Oscar Smith (as is noted in Jacilee Wray's "River by the Sea" historical narrative (pp 237). Smith was born in 1884, and would have been 45 years of age when the photo was taken. From the appearance of the lower eyelids, it appears the woman at left in that photo is Marion V. Wood. The woman in the middle might have possibly been a relative of Shannon Martinson, but I am unable to confirm that at this time. 10/03/16 BK) == Shannon Martinson graciously provided these photos of the Smith Place in the Queets Valley during its heyday in the early 1930s. Many thanks to Cyclopath and Ancient Ambler for their help with the images.
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View east of Smith Place. Smith addition on right. Shaube homestead cabin center. Structure left of metal chimney Smith addition. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View east of Smith Place. Smith addition on right. Shaube homestead cabin center. Structure left of metal chimney Smith addition. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View of north wall of Smith addition. Note stone fireplace, Navajo rug and wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View of north wall of Smith addition. Note stone fireplace, Navajo rug and wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - view of northeast corner of Smith addition. Note peeled spruce log bunks hung with chains from ceiling, Navaho rug and wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - view of northeast corner of Smith addition. Note peeled spruce log bunks hung with chains from ceiling, Navaho rug and wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View of east wall in Smith addition. Note Navajo rug, wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View of east wall in Smith addition. Note Navajo rug, wall hangings. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View southeast showing Smith additions on Shaube homestead cabin and outbuilding in background. Note fenced garden area in foreground and fruit trees on right. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View southeast showing Smith additions on Shaube homestead cabin and outbuilding in background. Note fenced garden area in foreground and fruit trees on right. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View north from center of clearing. Structure in background presumably barn/woodshed. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View north from center of clearing. Structure in background presumably barn/woodshed. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View south from center of clearing. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - View south from center of clearing. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - Oscar Smith on right wearing hat. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Smith Place - Queets Valley - 1930s - Oscar Smith on right wearing hat. photo courtesy S. Martinson
Note glider swing in front of structure in first image (top left) is the same swing shown in this photo:
The last image (Oscar Smith wearing hat) was most likely taken just upstream from Smith Place, judging from the height of the bank on the opposite side of the river. The large pool there at the top of the gravel bar in front of Smith Place was a favorite fishing spot of my father's. (all images used with permission S. Martinson 03/14)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:06 am 
Bob Creek Shelter - Queets Valley
Front corner elevation of Bob Creek Shelter. A can and an identifying sign hang in front of shelter. NPS photo, courtesy of Russ Dalton (RDA.002.023)
Front corner elevation of Bob Creek Shelter. A can and an identifying sign hang in front of shelter. NPS photo, courtesy of Russ Dalton (RDA.002.023)
Bob Creek Shelter - Queets Valley - July 1953 - photo courtesy Russ Dalton - NPS photo
Bob Creek Shelter - Queets Valley - July 1953 - photo courtesy Russ Dalton - NPS photo
additional images of Bob Creek Shelter: Bob Creek Shelter - by Lyle Cowles

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:06 am 
Pelton Creek Shelter - Queets Valley
Pelton Creek Shelter 1999 
NPS Image (OLYM18381-066)
Pelton Creek Shelter 1999 NPS Image (OLYM18381-066)
Man reading by the fire on a snowy day at the Pelton Creek Shelter on the Queets River. NPS image. Courtesy Henry Bonham. (BON.001.019)
Man reading by the fire on a snowy day at the Pelton Creek Shelter on the Queets River. NPS image. Courtesy Henry Bonham. (BON.001.019)
additional images of Pelton Creek Shelter: Pelton Creek Shelter - by Bruce Pelton Creek Shelter - 2002 - by Ski Pelton Creek Shelter - 2008 - by GoBlueHiker Pelton Creek Shelter - August 2013 - by Gay Hunter, NPS (all images courtesy NPS)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostTue Apr 22, 2014 1:07 am 
Tshletshy Creek Shelter - Queets Valley
Tshletshy Creek Shelter - Queets Valley - June 1953 - photo courtesy Russ Dalton - NPS photo
Tshletshy Creek Shelter - Queets Valley - June 1953 - photo courtesy Russ Dalton - NPS photo

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostSun Mar 15, 2015 12:48 pm 
RIP Chadwick John Kirk - 1936-2015 Vaya con Dios, my brother.
Chad - Unk. - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish - August 1951 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
Chad - Unk. - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish - August 1951 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
JDK and Chad Kirk - Queets Valley - probably 1953 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
JDK and Chad Kirk - Queets Valley - probably 1953 - photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.
Chad - Andrews Field - Queets Valley - late 1950s - photo JoAnn Kirk
Chad - Andrews Field - Queets Valley - late 1950s - photo JoAnn Kirk
* notes on photos: note homemade pack on Rhett (on far right) in first image. note Heddon-Winona reel and Converse Hi-Tops in second image note Andrews Barn in background and sign "Spruce Bottom" in third image. note Trapper Nelson pack in third image. photos John Dewitt Kirk Jr. and JoAnn Kirk - thanks Jules and Pan! BK

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 9:48 am 
Queets "Big Fir" Trail (* edited for brevity and clarity *) From: Sam Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 8:23 PM To: Ski Subject: Recognize this sign?
Record Douglas Fir Sign (front) 090620 SO
Record Douglas Fir Sign (front) 090620 SO
Record Douglas Fir Sign (rear) 090620 SO
Record Douglas Fir Sign (rear) 090620 SO
From: Ski Sent: Monday, September 11, 2020 To: Sam Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? Main trail at the junction to the "Big Fir" trail - about 2.5 miles in at Coal Creek. From: Sam Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 8:46 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? Somebody must have found it recently. Was up as far as Shaube place on Sunday, and it had been propped up well off main trail on way to Big Fir. Moss all over back side, assume it was face down for years somewhere. From: Ski Sent: Friday, September 11, 2020 To: Sam Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? Well... the "main trail" used to cross Coal Creek about 50-60 feet upstream of where it crosses Coal Creek today. When that big hemlock went down, it took out a few dozen yards of the bank, and that section of trail. Then there was the huge spruce that fell over a few years back. Those two events led to the re-routing of the "Big Fir Trail" - its starting point is now about 50-60 feet SOUTH-southeast of where it was formerly. From: Sam Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 12:41 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? So, I am unclear where this old sign was. Seems at some point it was on the spur trail to Big Fir when it left the Kloochman Rock Trail, yes? Kloochman Rock Trail must have been signed at its junction with main Queets Trail? Of course when the Kloochman Rock Trail was abandoned this Big Fir sign it might have been moved to main Queets junction? I first was on Queets trail in 93, and can’t recall signage at Coal Creek junction, but something was there directing people to Big Fir. Doesn’t feel like this old sign was there then. Judging by moss maybe lost on ground since 70s? As far as reroute, do you recall a bridge over Coal Creek at old crossing, or ford? I was gone from area 2002-2016 and missed the changes to trail. FYI this rediscovered old Big Fir sign is now way up Coal Creek, along what I presume is old Kloochman Rock Trail junction with Big Fir spur, hundreds of feet beyond where queets trail was/is. From: Ski Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 1:10 PM To: Sam Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? The first (and only) time I hiked up the old "Kloochman Rock Trail" was in late summer 1971. At that time, the "Big Fir" trail branched off of the main "Queets River Trail" right at the point where the trail came to the banks of Coal Creek (at 2.5 miles.) There was a sign there which said "Record Douglas Fir - 0.2 miles". We always thought that "0.2 miles" was a long walk when we were carrying heavy packs in 80-degree weather. The "Big Fir" trail headed in a northerly direction, running close to and parallel to Coal Creek. After about a hundred yards, it made a sharp left turn to the west. AT THAT POINT there was a sign "Kloochman Rock Trail", where one forded Coal Creek and then ascended the "Kloochman Rock Trail". I very seriously doubt one would be able to find any trace of sign or trail at that point, because that little area is a Salmonberry thicket - being so close to the creek. Curiously, the "Big Fir" trail is not marked on the 1956 15-minute USGS topographical map from which I pulled this snip.
Kloochman Rock Trail - 1956 USGS 15-min topo Kloochman Rock (excerpt)
Kloochman Rock Trail - 1956 USGS 15-min topo Kloochman Rock (excerpt)
There was never a bridge over Coal Creek that I recall. It probably washed away years before I was ever up there. There WAS a wooden log-stringer bridge over "Old Joe Creek", which is the SECOND drainage one comes to on the Queets River Trail. There WAS a huge old maple with long moss drapery that hung over the trail just before the creek, but it went down a few years ago. It is noted in a photo in one of my trip reports on nwhikers.net. The wooden bridge over "Old Joe Creek" was still there in 1971. I do not know when it disappeared. (FTR: per Paul Gleeson, former Cultural Resources Director, Olympic National Park, "Old Joe Creek" was named for Joel Northrup.) It would be a REASONABLE ASSUMPTION to assume that there WAS a bridge over Coal Creek, as documents that Jacilee Wray was able to dig up indicated that Oscar Smith had a ROAD punched through from the "Lower Crossing Junction" (at 4.2 miles) up to Smith Place so he could drive a wagon up to his cabin with supplies. (The route which goes up over that hump and past Spruce Bottom would have presented quite a challenge in respect to "road construction" and navigating a wheeled vehicle up that far.) (The last time we used the "Lower Crossing Trail" would have been about 1965 or 1966, when we got rained out and used the lower crossing because my father and Jack Eyrish thought it would be safer with kids than the ford in front of Smith Place.) (FTR: as near as I was able to ascertain from poring over early interviews (Kitteredge, for one) and documents was that the "Lower Crossing" was then known locally as "Rock Rapids". I could well be mistaken there, but I don't believe I am.) From: Sam Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 1:30 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? A wealth of info as always. Any notion on when this old sign disappeared? Again, I’m not sure if any sign marked the junction in 1993, I saw Big Fir then, not sure if I knew of it from Bob Wood guide or if signage led me there. As far as sign for Kloochman Rock Trail wouldn’t NPS have removed when trail abandoned? I’m trying to recall lower crossing sign in early 90s, was it possibly still there and listing Tshletshy Creek Trail? What about signpost behind Smith Place that marked trail up into forest? Was that up for years after trail abandoned? For that matter did park ever formally announce abandonment of these trails? From: Ski Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 4:42 PM To: Sam Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? I do not know when the "Record Douglas Fir" sign disappeared. As I recall, it was replaced at least two or three times that I remember, but I wouldn't even try to guess at years. Many signs were stolen by Park visitors. As of 1993, there WERE signs at both the "Big Fir" trail junction (at Coal Creek) as well as the "Lower Crossing Junction" (at 4.2 miles). I remember talking with former Queets Ranger Mike Larsen in the mid-1990s and telling him about the blowdown there at Coal Creek. He later told me that he packed a saw up there and cut it out. Keith Flanery (Queets Ranger prior to Mike Larsen) told me that he removed the sign at the "Lower Crossing Junction" (at 4.2 miles) because it caused hikers to get lost trying to find the long-ago-abandoned "Lower Crossing Trail". The sign was in the Queets Ranger Station in 2004 when I spent the summer there. The "Tshletshy Creek Trail" sign (which had RED letters, not white) was in Larry Lack's shop when I last visited him in Port Angeles about 20+ years ago. Unless I'm mistaken, Keith Flanery removed that sign as well, as most everything in the valley during the late 1980s and early 1990s was either being vandalized or stolen. (The vandalism at the Smith Place / Shaube structure was the catalyst for my becoming interested in the history of the Queets in 1988, the first year I went up there after 1971.) The sign at the "Lower Crossing Junction" made no mention of "Tshletshy". The mileage on the sign was shown for other destinations, among them "North Fork Quinault". I cannot recall verbatim exactly what was on the sign. Somewhere around here I have a great color photograph of the sign with the sunlight filtering through the maples there. I do not know when the "Kloochman Rock Trail" was abandoned. There WAS a sign there (at the bottom end of the trail) when I walked up in 1971, and the trail was easily navigable at that time. When my brother and I walked up what is now known as the "Upper Crossing Way Trail" (between Smith Place and Tshletshy Creek) on July 20, 1969 (the same day Neil Armstrong landed on the moon) the trail was clear and easily navigable. As I recall, Larry Lack told me years ago the last time the "Tshletshy Creek Trail" had been cleared was 1969, just prior to the big slide about half a mile up the creek from its confluence with the Queets. We didn't try to navigate the trail at all once we got to the creek. We fished our way up the creek several miles until a huge logjam forced us to turn around. Trail crew boss Carl Pangratz cleared out the "Upper Crosssing Way Trail" at some point in the early years of this century, but off the top of my head I cannot recall the exact year. Possibly 2004 (?). I have a great photo of Carl here somewhere - it's a great character study of a man who spent his life up there. (One of those rare "I got the shot" images I captured with that old beat-up Nikon FG-20.) I do not believe there is any statute or regulation that requires NPS to publicly announce the closures or abandonment of any trails (or the destruction and/or removal of trail shelters, as was done in the early 1970s during an orgiastic period of trail shelter removal at ONP.) I do know that a shocking number of trail miles have been abandoned both at Olympic National Park and Olympic National Forest. As I recall, there is an "abandoned trails" thread on nwhikers.net which lists those trails abandoned on ONP and ONF lands. In many cases, there are legitimate arguments to support the abandonment of some trails. There are several "Tshletshy" threads on nwhikers.net, in which you will find my comments supporting the abandonment of that trail posted in several places. We don't NEED to have a trail up every river valley, any more than we NEED to have a road up every river valley. There are instances (like the Tshletshy Creek and Goldie River drainages) where, over the long term, the landscape (and in particular the native fauna) are better off without the presence of humans - we tend to make a mess of things stinking the place up with fire pits and human waste and garbage. It is better to leave a bit aside for the bears and the elk. In the case of the Kloochman Rock Trail, its abandonment is a net positive, as it cut off an access point used by elk poachers. Another trail abandoned which is still used by elk hunters is the old "Sams River Trail" (on the south bank of the Sams), which had seen recent work with power equipment when I first ventured up it on May 14, 2014 and found recently cut steps in a downed log, and other relatively fresh cuts - none of which Larry Lack was aware of when I sent him the photos. The "For the benefit and enjoyment of the people" part of the founding legislation doesn't necessarily trump the "protect and preserve the native flora and fauna" part - fortunately NPS has people on the payroll smarter than me who (for the most part) think these things through. Personally, I think it's of much greater importance to assure we have healthy and viable populations of elk and anadromous salmonids up there than people, but that's just my lousy opinion. From: Ski Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 8:49 AM To: Sam Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? My curiosity led me to other versions of the USGS topographical maps. From the versions I was able to find, it's evident that the first portion of the "Big Fir" trail has been relocated more than once. I noted that the earlier 1956 USGS 15-minute topo map didn't even show the "Big Fir" trail.
Kloochman Rock Trail - 1956 USGS 15-min topo Kloochman Rock (excerpt)
Kloochman Rock Trail - 1956 USGS 15-min topo Kloochman Rock (excerpt)
The 1990 USGS 7.5 topo map shows the "Big Fir" trail beginning at the eastern edge of what was "Andrews Upper Field" (according to the trail sign which was nailed to an alder there) - the homestead site of Vic Andrews (brother of John Andrews, who owned the larger clearing about half a mile down the trail to the west.) On close examination, you will see a small white area on the map at that point, indicating a clearing. I do not recall the "Big Fir" trail ever beginning at that point. Rather, my earliest recollection was the trail beginning (as mentioned previously) right near the western bank of Coal Creek.
Big Fir Trail USGS 7.5 topo Kloochman Rock 1990 (excerpt)
Big Fir Trail USGS 7.5 topo Kloochman Rock 1990 (excerpt)
The 2020 USGS 7.5 topo map shows the "Big Fir" trail beginning a couple hundred feet west of Coal Creek, branching off the main Queets River Trail and heading in a north-northwest direction. This is most likely how you and I both remember the trail, although that first portion has been relocated at least a few times during the last ± 25 years because of the recurrent blowdowns in the immediate area. I recall more than once giving hikers the directions to find the trail (described HERE: https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8012900 ) - climbing up on that downed spruce and walking to its end, then finding the trail just to the left of that cut log you see in the second photo in that trip report. That cut log (in the second photo) is the one Mike Larsen cut out in the mid-1990s, and is most likely the place from which your mystery sign came from.
=
=
and to underscore the difficulty people have been having for the last couple decades when trying to find the "Big Fir" trail, I just received this email from a retired ONP staffer: From: G Sent: Wednesday, September 16, 2020 9:36 AM To: Ski Subject: Re: FYI Fw: Recognize this sign? What timing. Was just in the Queets!!! Quick trip car camping but wonderful to be in the valley. Relatively smoke free air!!! Water SO low and warm. Afraid for the fish but lovely for a dip. A friend had gone to look for the big Doug fit and couldn’t find it. Was so determined he came out in the dark. Keep your watch on the Queets!!! Thanks for all the history!!! G 9984

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 12:23 pm 
I was just up there a few weeks ago. I ran into some folks near the cut off who wanted to see the tree so we smashed and crawled our way there via map and compass. The tree is impossible to find now unless you know the location and can navigate to it as the trail is covered in blowdown and salmonberry thicket after the first hundred feet out of the ravine. Lots of bloody fun!
big fir-1
big fir-1

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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 12:59 pm 
Queets "Big Fir Trail" - Queets "Kloochman Rock Trail" I think Sam and Ernie and I are about the only ones left who can find it without a map, compass, or GPS. I was informed that it would be given priority for trail work, but it appears that has not yet happened. For those who are perusing this thread and might be suffering from delusions about finding the long-ago-abandoned "Kloochman Rock Trail": From: Sam Sent: Monday, September 14, 2020 1:35 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: Recognize this sign? FYI I made it about 70% of way up old kloochman route last year, found cut logs in several spots, but brush and blow downs worst in my bush whacking career. Pants were shredded and scratched all up
results of 2019 attempt at Kloochman Rock Trail (SO)
results of 2019 attempt at Kloochman Rock Trail (SO)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 1:20 pm 
Queets "Big Fir" - Queets "Kloochman Rock Trail" - Queets addition to Olympic National Park - Proposed Additions to Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938
Queets Big Fir article Times May 23 1941 01
Queets Big Fir article Times May 23 1941 01
Queets Big Fir article times May 23 1941 02
Queets Big Fir article times May 23 1941 02
Queets Big Fir photo 1938
Queets Big Fir photo 1938
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 front cover
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 front cover
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 01
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 01
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 02
Report on Enlargement of Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938 02
Addition Number Four Queets Valley Irving Brandt 1938
Addition Number Four Queets Valley Irving Brandt 1938
Addition Number Ten Administrative Area Irving Brandt 1938
Addition Number Ten Administrative Area Irving Brandt 1938
Map of Proposed Additions to Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938
Map of Proposed Additions to Olympic National Park Irving Brandt 1938
Queets River pack train 1938 02
Queets River pack train 1938 02
Queets River pack train 1938 01
Queets River pack train 1938 01
Western Hemlock photo Kloochman Rock Trail Queets Valley 1938
Western Hemlock photo Kloochman Rock Trail Queets Valley 1938
(* many thanks to Sam for digging up the archival photos and articles * up.gif ) ========================================================== (* edited for brevity and clarity *) From: Sam Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 1:39 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: great documents Looks like it was intended for key government officials as Roosevelt pushed park boundaries. Note in the page I sent on the Queets it mentions 4 private properties above Sams River ford; 2 ranches I presume to be the Andrews brothers, a trappers cabin that’s Smith Place?, and a bankers summer place 8 miles up a truck road? The latter sounds like it would’ve been Spruce Bottom. Any notion on this cabin? From: Ski Sent: Sunday, September 13, 2020 1:14 PM To: Sam Subject: Re: great documents The “two small ranches” would have been (1) the John Andrews ranch (formerly the Hunter homestead) where the large clearing still remains at about 1.7 miles above the ford at Sams, and (2) the Vic Andrews homestead located just down-trail from Coal Creek (at which in what was the southeast corner of the clearing can be found several cast cement blocks). The “bankers summer place” would have been Smith Place. Brandt’s mileage number is higher than what we know it to be today, because he most likely started out at the Killea Guard Station, which was a couple miles downstream from the present day location of the Queets Ranger Station. The “trappers cabin” he refers to is most likely the small cabin built by Earl Petit up on Harlow Creek. (see HERE: https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=772184#772184 ) ===== < edit July 12, 2023 - posted in Trail Talk here RE: Queets Record Douglas Fir - "Big Fir" - "Big Fir Trail" The Queets "Big Fir" trail has not been cleared for at least about 8 or 10 years - not really sure. There are no plans currently to perform any maintenance on the trail. Ernie Vail, a long-time ONP volunteer, has been doing virtually all of the tail work on the Queets for over a decade. The Queets "Big Fir" trail is not on Ernie's list of priorities. In days of yore, Olympic National Park printed up some nice little brochures for the tourists, complete with drawings and maps, showing the exact locations of all of the record-holding trees in the Park. If you have ever visited the record Sitka Spruce down at Astoria, or the giant Western Red Cedar at Kalaloch, or the humungus Douglas Fir at Marymere Falls, you begin to understand why putting these trees on maps and providing directions to their locations is not always in the best interests of the tree. The consequent long-term effect of heavy foot traffic around the bases of these trees results in some serious soil compaction, and the bizarre effect of the lower reaches of the trunk appearing to be "polished" by visitors' hands - making the tree look like someone took a buffer to it. So while it may pose an inconvenience for some, I honestly have no objections to this move on the part of ONP. If you know where the tree is, you can find it. I have posted instructions on how to find it in as clear and concise language as I could. Just be sure you do not venture too far north trying to find it or you'll end up like Sam did last time he tried to get up to Kloochman Rock from the south side. Olympic National Park Trail Supervisor Extraordinaire Larry Lack will be retiring in September after 44 years of dedicated service. I will take the opportunity here to express my sincere thanks to Larry for his help over the years and say how much I've enjoyed our innumerable conversations on the phone. BK
Kalaloch Western Red Cedar [i:88df020f05](Thuja Plicata)[/i:88df020f05] polished by visitors' hands
Kalaloch Western Red Cedar (Thuja Plicata) polished by visitors' hands
==== < edit July 13 2023 06:00 PDT > From: Sam Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2023 12:57 AM To: Ski Subject: Re: hello there Funny I just saw your Queets fir post; I was out there last week and cleared the brush off what’s left of the trail. There’s still several logs blocking it just off main trail but after it’s pretty easy to follow now. Fir is still standing, and growth at top seems larger than ever. Rest of Queets trail up to burn in decent shape - 90% at worst needs some brushing but no new blowdowns since last year. I took along some hedge clippers and cut out worst salmon berry thickets above spruce camp. One interesting development is that the Queets trail is now on google maps. At first I thought it would be very inaccurate, but I checked it with my own position often and it’s spot on. The few times I lost trail i then referenced google maps and found it very quickly. It certainly makes things easier now but also encourages others who otherwise could never get up there on their own. The Queets fir trail is also on google maps. I think I found the old trail up to Kloochman rock, just up the trail from Spruce Camp. It looks to be in the same area in old maps showing the phone line that went up to Kloochman. I might try that route one day up to the rock. Went over to the Shaube place; only the metal glider is still visible. All else is buried in a spruce thicket. Even the post that marked the trail to tleshy is gone now. Is anyone still doing trail work? I don’t think anything has been done above spruce camp since before Covid. Your campsite still there; I built a big fire pit last year and used it again last week. Sam
Queets Big Fir July 2023 (photo S.O.)
Queets Big Fir July 2023 (photo S.O.)
Queets Big Fir July 2023 (photo S.O.)
Queets Big Fir July 2023 (photo S.O.)
Queets campsite July 2023 (photo S.O.)
Queets campsite July 2023 (photo S.O.)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostFri Sep 18, 2020 3:00 pm 
Queets - Smith Place - Kelly Ranch - Andrews Ranch From: Sam Sent: Friday, September 18, 2020 1:39 PM To: Ski Subject: Re: great documents "... and a bankers summer place 8 miles up a truck road? ..." From: Ski Sent: Friday September 18, 2020 2:05 PM To: Sam Subject: and a bankers summer place 8 miles up a truck road? Obviously Mr. Brandt was confused or misinformed about Oscar Smith’s occupation. Smith owned the Meadowsweet Dairy here in Tacoma – he wasn’t a banker. Regarding the “truck road”: in the Queets history (“River Near the Sea - An Ethnohistory of the Queets River Valley” © October 19, 2014 Jacilee Wray, Olympic National Park), Wray documents that Smith had a road constructed from the “Lower Crossing Junction” (at 4.2 miles) up to Smith Place so he could haul supplies in on a wagon. Additionally, my mother, who first visited the Queets in the summer of 1948, clearly described a road navigable by automobile that went up to the (John) Andrews Ranch. At that time they drove up to that point before hiking up farther. Andrews had dairy cows and hauled milk out to market on a truck. (pers. comm. EKL) My father also many times described driving across the Queets at the mouth of the Sams River, where they connected to a road on the north bank that led up to the Andrews Ranch. (pers. comm. JDK) Regarding the “8 miles”, it’s possible Mr. Brandt hired his pack stock at the Kelly Ranch, which was also a couple miles downstream from the present day location of the Queets Ranger Station. I have another source of information on the Kelly Ranch, but because of the Corona pandemic I have not yet been able to do an in-person interview with her. I was able to dig up a couple old photos of the Kelly Ranch, which unfortunately have been vandalized with watermarks applied by someone who thought it appropriate to claim ownership of a newspaper article they did not write or publish.
Kelly's Ranch Queets Valley article March 30 1940 01
Kelly's Ranch Queets Valley article March 30 1940 01
Kelly's Ranch Queets Valley article March 30 1940 02
Kelly's Ranch Queets Valley article March 30 1940 02
(10050)

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
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PostMon Jun 13, 2022 2:59 pm 
RE: Archival photo images Queets and North Fork Skokomish I received an inquiry regarding some archival photos and after carefully looking at them again renamed the files and found answers to some questions:
unknown - Rhett - Chad - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.):
unknown - Rhett - Chad - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.):
photo of Rhett Kirk and Chad Kirk and another unknown boy standing in front of a trail sign on the North Fork of the Skokomish in 1951. Unknown boy on left. Rhett center with home-made pack. Chad far right with hat hanging on top of fishing poles. The pack that Rhett is carrying is a home-made affair, using a canvas-covered wood-framed pack BOARD. (As opposed to “pack sack” or “ruck sack”.) The pack BOARD was just a flat panel on the back, with several attachment points along each side of the frame, designed to allow the user to tie anything desired onto the back, whether that be a cardboard box filled with provisions, or parts of an animal that had been hunted. Paul Gleeson was fascinated by this image, as it was a visual record of the sort of home-made equipment people made. The cardboard box is a “Kerr” fruit jar box. (see drawing with inset.)
Camp Pleasant - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
Camp Pleasant - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of man cooking pancakes over a fire in front of the Camp Pleasant Shelter, North Fork Skokomish, August 1951. Note tin hat. (https://www.filson.com/accessories/tin-cloth-packer-hat.html) I had speculated in a previous email that this might be JDK, but after looking more closely at the other images, I believe this is Chad Kirk wearing the same hat that’s hanging from the top of his fishing poles in the other images. You will note that JDK is wearing a ball cap in the other images from this August 1951 North Fork Skokomish trip. There are two other images – one taken in 1946 and one in 1951 – that show JDK wearing a similar tin hat. I believe it’s reasonable to assume JDK gave the tin hat to Chad and wore the ball cap instead, which makes sense: The ball cap has a longer bill. The tin hat has a fairly narrow brim, and wouldn’t shade your eyes from the sun as well as the ball cap. Other photo images, like the 1948 “Summer Runs” image, in which JDK is wearing the odd green plastic sun shade affair, show that he was experimenting with different accessories to get the sun out of his eyes and reduce the glare on the water’s surface when he was fishing. I recall him telling me the reason he never wore sunglasses was because he believed they were “bad for your eyes” and would damage his vision. As an aside, the reason I opted for Filson’s “Bush Hat” instead of the “Tin Hat” was because it offered the wider brim, providing more shade from the sun.
Chad - unknown - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
Chad - unknown - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of Chad Kirk, unknown boy, and Rhett Kirk standing in front of trail sign. North Fork Skokomish, August 1951. Note tin hat hanging from Chad’s fishing pole. Note neither Chad or the other boy show any beard growth. Chad would be 15 in this photo. The other boy is presumably a friend of Chads, but Mom was unable to identify him. Note home-made pack that Rhett is carrying. Chad and unknown boy appear to be carrying Trapper Nelson packs.
JDK - unknown - Chad - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
JDK - unknown - Chad - Rhett - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of JDK (seated at left), unknown boy (seated center), Rhett Kirk (seated right), and Chad Kirk (sitting on log at rear). Note footwear on JDK, Chad, and unknown boy in the images from this trip. They are wearing what are effectively moccasins, not “hiking boots”.
JDK and Chad - Queets River ca. 1953 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
JDK and Chad - Queets River ca. 1953 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of JDK and Chad Kirk holding summer-run steelhead on the Queets River ca. 1953. Chad would have been 17 in 1953. Note hair. Refer to photo images of The King of Cool – James Dean – from 1953. I have to wonder if this image was before or after Chad dyed his hair orange with Mercurochrome. Note Converse Chuck Taylor All-Star High-Tops – the best river shoe in the galaxy. Note Heddon-Winona open-spool fishing reel. Angle of sun, vegetation in background, and direction of river flow causes me to believe this image was taken on the gravel bar in front of Spruce Bottom, most likely at the upper end of the gravel bar where the river drops into a pool just as it comes around a bend. Just a wild guess, but from the grins I would posit that Blanche took this photo.
JDK Queets 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
JDK Queets 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of John Dewitt Kirk Jr. holding fish and fishing pole, Queets River, 1951. Note tin hat (see notes above.) Note Heddon-Winona open-spool fishing reel. Note 9 foot fishing rod, presumably a True-Temper steel rod (his favorite.) From angle of sun and vegetation in background I believe this image was taken on gravel bar at Spruce Bottom.
JDK Queets below Tshletshy 1946 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
JDK Queets below Tshletshy 1946 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of John Dewitt Kirk Jr. holding fish and fishing pole, Queets River, 1946. Note tin hat (see notes above.) Note 9-foot fishing rod, presumably a True Temper steel rod. From angle of sun and vegetation in background, I am reasonably confident this image was taken on gravel bar on the north bank about 200 yards downstream from the mouth of Tshletshy Creek. (Note hemlocks on opposite bank, undercutting of bank by river.)(see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tq4MG77nzsQ) (see also part two, part four, part six) This is the spot he would lead me to by the hand when I was very young. I would sit on the bank and watch him fish, and try to catch the locusts that clack-clack-clacked across the gravel bar in the sun. It was one of his favorite fishing holes.
JDK Queets 'Summer Runs' 1948
JDK Queets 'Summer Runs' 1948
photo of John Dewitt Kirk Jr. kneeling on gravel bar holding fish, Queets River, 1946 Note odd sun visor head gear. These were fairly popular in the late 1940s and early 1950s. The transparent green plastic visor was intended to shield the eyes from the sun and reduce glare. (see note above regarding sunglasses.) I am not able to even hazard a guess as to where this was taken. The caption he wrote in the album just below the photo simply said “Summer Runs”.
unknown - Chad - John III - Rhett - JDK - unknown - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
unknown - Chad - John III - Rhett - JDK - unknown - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of unknown boy, Chad Kirk, John Dewitt Kirk III (seated on ground holding stick), Rhett Kirk (seated on ground wearing cap), JDK (standing), and unknown small boy (seated on ground far right), North Fork Skokomish, August 1951
unknown - Rhett - Chad - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
unknown - Rhett - Chad - North Fork Skokomish August 1951 (photo John Dewitt Kirk Jr.)
photo of unknown boy, Rhett Kirk, Chad Kirk standing in front of trail sign, North Fork Skokomish August 1951 Note home-made pack on Rhett. Note footwear – moccasins.
pack board drawing
pack board drawing
simple sketch of pack board designed with eyelets on the sides so the user can simply tie the load to the pack board. I had to procure something along the same line in the early 1990s – I tied an 18-pound inflatable rubber boat onto it, and then tied that onto the back of my pack and hauled it up the #274 Blue Lake Hiker Trail just south of Randle so I could take two little boys on a boat ride on the lake. (We didn’t catch any fish, but it was fun looking down into the crystal clear water and seeing the light reflect back up off the white volcanic ash on the lakebed.) Lacking a bag which limited the volume of material one could pack, the simple pack frame allowed one to tie on as much as one could carry. I believe a Mr. John Huelsdonk used a similar method to pack a woodstove to a cabin on the Hoh. I may be mistaken, but I seem to recall a similar anecdotal report about one Mr. Lars Ahlstrom. BK see also:

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."

Jason Hummel, reststep, Anne Elk
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