[Randy]

Started off around 0830 on Saturday morning from the large parking area for Schreibers Meadow and made our way north immediately through brush (not the right way but it works) until we found an old road about 100’ up from the parking area. We followed this up another couple hundred feet or so until we lost it in snow. Took a bearing and headed up under Crag View through forest then open moraine and various gullies. The snow was great for plodding along with heavy packs and we were able to make decent time up the hill. We eventually made our way up along a narrow ridge at 6300’ between the Easton and squak Glaciers and set up a fine high camp with awesome 360º views of all the North Cascades and of course the big mountain to the immediate north. By the time camp was set and we had water boiling on the stove, it was only 1400 or so and we passed the afternoon away taking in the views and being generally lazy. The wind on our little ridge was intense all day and well into the night. Finally decided to lay down in the tent around 1900, but sleep was hard to come by with the intense evening light and the tent bouncing in the constant wind. Between Jim and myself we probably combined for a whopping hour of sleep before the wake up call came at midnight. Got our gear together and eventually left camp at 0130 - the last of the rope teams in our group - we got to sweep and make sure the other teams in our group were accounted for. We started off slow behind a couple teams with some folks not feeling so hot, but made steady progress up the glacier which showed a couple of crevasses, but were easily avoided. At roughly 9700’ we made the crater rim where about 6 teams were held up including two of our teams. Somewhat frustrated at the slow pace during the previous hours, our team of three quickly slapped on our crampons and headed out and up the Roman Wall while the others decided to rest. We hurried up the wall passing a few other teams as we went and finally crested on to the broad summit plateau at roughly 10700’. A few more steps and the summit bump was in sight. Spectacular views from the top, especially noteworthy were Shuksan and Glacier as well as all the big peaks in the North Cascades. Sunny skies and warm temperatures made for a fine 45 minute stay on top before we followed our same route back to camp. By the time we made camp around 1045 the snow had turned to slush and I didn’t envy the folks trying for the summit in the wet snow and blistering sun. Had some awesome glissades out of camp and back into the trees and made the parking lot a few hours later. Almost a perfect weekend, great weather, great summit, and great company...good times.