Forum Index > Trip Reports > Logan, Douglas Glacier 6/14-16/08
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Mark Griffith
(Embrace yourself)



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Mark Griffith
(Embrace yourself)
PostThu Jun 19, 2008 12:01 pm 
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Loved the photos so far, tagging this so I get the notice on the rest of them. wink.gif
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twodogdad
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PostThu Jun 19, 2008 4:01 pm 
logan
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In the spirit of the forthcoming Olympics I rename you Citius, Altius, Fortius up.gif 2dd
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wildernessed
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wildernessed
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PostThu Jun 19, 2008 4:43 pm 
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up.gif Awesome. Can't wait for the rest of the pics. Great effort, nothing exceptional is very easy around there, and most everything is exceptional. hockeygrin.gif

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Living in the Anthropocene
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Sabahsboy
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PostThu Jun 19, 2008 5:34 pm 
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Dicey...you rock!  What a great set of shots!  Thank you for the link to flickr.com photo set.  Wow!
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b00
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b00
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 8:07 am 
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Don wrote:
Tom_Sjolseth wrote:
Don wrote:
Nope.  From the Fremont it was occasional.  The only exception was the move at the col.


I have to say not the standard route?  We walked up from the Fremont side.  The hardest move of the climb was gaining the ridge at the col above the glacier.

we did the fremont glacier.  i've been up a few mountains and this was definitely more than class 2 and in few places a stiff 3 or higher.
although a rope was not absolutely required, maybe only one of our very experienced party would have done it without a rope.  not hard climbing but loose - definitely required the use of both hands.
mount logan 7-2-06 ascending summit of logan
mount logan 7-2-06 ascending summit of logan

btw - congratulations on fantastic climb!
:>)
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Jason Hummel
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 9:44 am 
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I climbed/skied this mountain a few years ago. What an amazing area!!! Because others are posting summit shots, here's one that sky took:


And one I took the same day on the summit:


Can't wait to see more pics of the area. I really want to go back again, as sights from easy pass are addicting and the only cure is getting closer  lol.gif
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doehle
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 2:19 pm 
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Great job folks, way to get out there!  Glad you got to knock this one off your list cartman.  Looking forward to more pics!
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dkemp
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 3:38 pm 
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up.gif

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Get up early, go all day, come home tired.
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Mesahchie Mark
Really Useful Engine



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Mesahchie Mark
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 3:54 pm 
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Logan is on the short list.  Good effort!   agree.gif
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cartman
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 4:04 pm 
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dicey wrote:


snow cairn
snow cairn

The top of the col in the upper right here was where we turned left to go up and over the false summits.  We ascended the left side of the slope below the col.
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Layback
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Layback
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PostFri Jun 20, 2008 9:41 pm 
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Good stuff Eric.  Tell me, are you ever going to take those photos off of your card (from the last three years) and put them up on Flickr for us all to see?   clown.gif

Glad you guys had such a wonderful outing.   up.gif
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostSat Jun 21, 2008 12:35 am 
Logan via Douglas Glacier, 6/14 - 6/16/08
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Logan via Douglas Glacier, June 14-16, 2008
Party:  Matt, cartman, Dicey


Logan Douglas Route Map
Logan Douglas Route Map

Day 1, Approach
The approach consisted of four parts: 1) up to Easy Pass, 2) down to Fisher Creek, 3) down Fisher Creek to “Douglas Creek,” 4) up Douglas Creek to camp 4700.

Elevation-wise, that’s 3700 feet up to 6550 feet, down to 5200, further down to 4000, and back up to 4700.  Thence the problem with Easy Pass for access to this area.  It’s the shortest route, but by the time you reach the creek junction, you’ve dropped back down almost as low as the trailhead, so you to climb almost as much to get out as to get in.

(Note: I made up the name “Douglas Creek.”  It’s actually a nameless tributary that flows from the Douglas Glacier down to Fisher Creek, but it needs a name for easier reference.)

Trailhead Up to Easy Pass
The lower Easy Pass trail was in good condition, but we hit continuous snow and lost the trail circa 4700 feet.  We ended too high on the valley wall, but then got into the snow-covered creek basin circa 5200, and kicked easy steps up to the pass.

9941 Approaching Easy Pass (Mt. Hardy behind)
9942 Forest Service/Park Service boundary marker at Easy Pass, with Logan & Douglas glacier in the distance

Easy Pass Down to Fisher Creek

The trail on the far side of the pass was snow-covered at the top and bottom, but bare in the middle.  Starting down, we forgot to make the traverse west at the top, ran into cliffs, and had to go back up and find the trail.  In the bare middle of the descent, the many switchbacks were awash with trickling meltwater and blooming with glacier lilies.

Descending to Fisher Creek
Descending to Fisher Creek
Glacier Lilies & Fisher Peak
Glacier Lilies & Fisher Peak

Fisher Creek to Douglas Creek

Along Fisher Creek, the evidence of last winter’s exceptional avalanches was everywhere.  The basin was completely filled in with leftover snow, which in turn was littered with broken tree pieces.  Along every edge of the existing avalanche meadows, fresh decades-old trees had been snapped off by the extra-large avalanches this winter.  In some places, islands of  broken trunks stood eight feet above us, showing the depth of the snow when the big avalanches came down.  On the opposite side of the creek, trees were knocked over in a splash pattern two hundred feet uphill, where an avalanche had come down hard enough to run up the other side.

Looking down avalanche-filled Fisher Creek from Easy Pass
Looking down avalanche-filled Fisher Creek from Easy Pass
Hiking across the avalanche fields
Hiking across the avalanche fields

Circa 3900 feet, where the trail closely approaches Fisher Creek just before Douglas Creek, we dropped to the creek and found a log across.

Slow, cautious way to cross the log
Slow, cautious way to cross the log
Bold, vain way to cross the log
Bold, vain way to cross the log

Douglas Creek to Camp

The hike up Douglas Creek wasn’t too bad at first.  Mostly snow under the trees, with occasional logs to hop and bogs to avoid.  Then the travel became ugly.  The slide alder was still bare, but the ground was covered with jackstrawed trees and branches so thick that at times we were walking not on the ground, but atop a thick mat of broken trunks and branches.

Douglas Creek debris
Douglas Creek debris
More debris
More debris

Thank goodness, where the valley climbed more steeply up to the flats at 4700, the creek was still snow-covered for an easier path.  Through gaps in the snow, we could see dense thickets of brush, which must be hell to travel without the snow.  Worn out from the brush, we dragged ourselves up the final slope about 8pm.

I suppose there should be some way to love every kind of terrain, but this valley just seemed unpleasant and disheartening to me.  Everywhere was just avalanche wreckage – debris, brush, and dirt.  It felt like more a passage to endure than a place to enjoy.

Anyway, we set up camp with a nice view back to Ragged Ridge and forward to the cliff bands below the Douglas Glacier.  I managed to find water by climbing into a hole in the snow and perching on a pile of brush to reach down to a freshet running underneath.

Camp area viewed later from above cliff band
Camp area viewed later from above cliff band
Debris & Ragged Ridge below camp
Debris & Ragged Ridge below camp
Debris & cliff bands above camp
Debris & cliff bands above camp

Day 2, Logan via Douglas Glacier

We awoke early at 6am, saw the peaks covered with clouds, and fell back asleep for a couple more hours.  Later the clouds began to break.  By the time we got going it was 10am.  There was another delay while I backtracked to get the gloves I forgot in camp.

Morning clouds
Morning clouds
Clouds clearing around Thunder Peak
Clouds clearing around Thunder Peak
Camp and cloud band clearing off Ragged Ridge
Camp and cloud band clearing off Ragged Ridge

Getting above the cliff band can be a pain, but we were lucky.  Usually you either have to climb steep slabs on the right, or else traverse far out of the way on the left.  We found a fortuitous finger of snow up a gully in the center.  It had a few steep spots, but got us above the cliff band quite handily.

Cartman & Dicey heading for the fortuitous finger
Cartman & Dicey heading for the fortuitous finger
Climber approaching the snow finger
Climber approaching the snow finger
Looking back down toward our camp from atop the snow finger
Looking back down toward our camp from atop the snow finger

Now we roped up and traversed up and west along the Douglas Glacier, curving toward the high Douglas-Banded col.  Some bits of fallen cornice provided occasional cairns for our route.  At 6900 feet we reached the North Fork Bridge Creek col, with dramatic views south toward Goode.

Curving up the Douglas Glacier
Curving up the Douglas Glacier
Through the fallen cornice cairns
Through the fallen cornice cairns
Dicey near the North Fork Bridge Creek col
Dicey near the North Fork Bridge Creek col

From here on, the travel was very pleasant, just curving back and forth between a few icefalls, and climbing to every wider views.

Higher on the Douglas
Higher on the Douglas
Nearing the Douglas-Banded col
Nearing the Douglas-Banded col
Looking back down our tracks
Looking back down our tracks
Taking a break on rocks near the high col
Taking a break on rocks near the high col

The snow at the Douglas-Banded col forms a huge swale, with a giant windblown wall of snow across the far side.  A shorter snow ridge let us climb out on our side, without having to climb the main wall.

The Swale
The Swale
Climbing out of the swale
Climbing out of the swale
Atop the swale wall
Atop the swale wall

Our route up the Douglas stretched out far below us as we climbed up some more snow to the narrow rock ridge that forms the summit.

Hiking up snow above the swale
Hiking up snow above the swale
Looking back down the Douglas Glacier
Looking back down the Douglas Glacier
Our tracks climbing up from the swale to the rock crest
Our tracks climbing up from the swale to the rock crest

We bypassed a minor rock point and climbed up the next outcrop ahead.  It seemed like the summit, but then we looked past the far edge, and it wasn’t.  Beyond was a steeper tower.  We made it even steeper by ascending the left side, which included a brief fifth class move; probably should have taken the right side.   Anyway, finally we made it on top.

Summit from false summit
Summit from false summit
Dicey & Cartman on summit
Dicey & Cartman on summit
Matt on summit
Matt on summit

A sea of peaks lay spread out below us, with the western crest partially cloaked in clouds.

Boston Glacier with Buckner, Boston, Forbidden
Boston Glacier with Buckner, Boston, Forbidden
Park Creek Pass area – amazing to believe there’s actually a pass through those steep cliffs
Park Creek Pass area – amazing to believe there’s actually a pass through those steep cliffs
McGregor, Goode, Stormking
McGregor, Goode, Stormking
Easy Pass – a long distance away
Easy Pass – a long distance away

Sometimes the clouds thickened out west and turned the peaks into a dramatic storm of light and shadow

Eldorado wreathed in clouds
Eldorado wreathed in clouds
Clouds and shadows along Klawatti traverse
Clouds and shadows along Klawatti traverse

Logan itself provided some of the most dramatic scenery, with its steep towers and deeply contoured snow crests.

Further towers on Logan summit ridge
Further towers on Logan summit ridge
Logan Middle & South summits above Fremont Glacier
1 label
Logan Middle & South summits above Fremont Glacier
Douglas Glacier
Douglas Glacier
Thunder Peak and top of the Banded Glacier
Thunder Peak and top of the Banded Glacier

With the day getting late, we did a brief rappel to get off the summit, then headed back down our tracks.  I wandered around getting more photos of the steep swale at the col.

Starting down the snow
Starting down the snow
Descending into the swale (note climber at right for scale)
Descending into the swale (note climber at right for scale)

Then it was back down our tracks all the way to camp, arriving around 9pm.
Later in the evening, moonlight made the bands of snow below Thunder Peak glow faintly above us.

Thunder Peak at night.
Thunder Peak at night.

Day 3, Exit

The brush down Douglas Creek was still there. Crampons helped grip both on hard snow and on stacked tree trunks.

Hiking down the brushy valley
Hiking down the brushy valley
What a mess
What a mess
Fresh debris to climb over
Fresh debris to climb over

Back at Fisher Creek, we were still 2600 feet below the darned pass, so we hiked uphill as the day got warmer.

Along Fisher Creek, the glacier lilies were doing their wonderful blooming-through-the-snow thing.

Glacier lilies growing through the snow
Glacier lilies growing through the snow
Lily peeking out of its cloak
Lily peeking out of its cloak
Lily in the snow
Lily in the snow
Lily in the snow, side view
Lily in the snow, side view

Ascending toward the pass, the lilies were starting to open up.

Lilies with petals still furled.
Lilies with petals still furled.
Glacier lilies and Mesahchie
Glacier lilies and Mesahchie
Glacier lilies, hikers, & Mesahchie
Glacier lilies, hikers, & Mesahchie

At Easy Pass, we looked back for a final view of the Douglas Glacier.
The boundary marker showed how much the snow had melted in the past two days.

Last view back to Mt. Logan & Douglas Glacier
Last view back to Mt. Logan & Douglas Glacier
Boundary marker on Saturday
Boundary marker on Saturday
Boundary marker on Monday
Boundary marker on Monday

A synchronized ground squirrel team performed for us.
Dicey and I napped in the sun for awhile.

Synchronized ground squirrels standing
Synchronized ground squirrels standing
Synchronized ground squirrels sitting
Synchronized ground squirrels sitting
Dicey & Matt napping
Dicey & Matt napping

We got some long glissades on the far side of the pass.  We proceeded a little too close to the creek this time, but climbed back up a bit into the forest and found the trail.
Back at my car, a mouse had gotten into my trunk and tried to build a nest, again.

Dicey & Eric glissading
Dicey & Eric glissading
Trunk mouse nest
Trunk mouse nest

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“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Tom_Sjolseth
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Tom_Sjolseth
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PostSat Jun 21, 2008 3:29 am 
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Sweet photos, Matt!
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Dayhike Mike
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Dayhike Mike
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PostSat Jun 21, 2008 5:30 am 
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Nice work all around. Thanks for the TR and great pics, guys!

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"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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Don
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Don
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PostSat Jun 21, 2008 6:56 am 
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That was an EXCELLENT photo essay Matt!   up.gif   Loved the photos up high, and was amazed by all the avalanche debris.  I suspect there is going to be a lot of it this year.  Fantastic trip.
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Logan, Douglas Glacier 6/14-16/08
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