[jenjen]

Well, I'm back a bit early and I don't think my feet will ever forgive me but what a great trip! (and what great grammer!) Day 1 (Sept. 22): Went in the North fork Skykomish river (thanks, Bob K.). Really pretty forest, plenty of water available, and an easy trail till you climb to Dishpan Gap. I made camp next to the river just before the trail switchbacks up to Dishpan Gap. Day 2: Made the climb to Dishpan Gap, found a wide spot next to the trail, and made camp. Jeesh! Lugging a 55 lb pack up that grade was one of the harder things I've done. I found only one creek with water on this grade, and Dishpan Gap is dry unless you enjoy drinking out of very horsey tarns. If you come this way in the next few weeks make sure you water up down at the river or at the one creek. Day 3: Rest day. Spent most of the day scouting around for water (other than the horsey tarns). Some people told me where to look for springs near a campsite, but I couldn't find them. Your water options here are Lake Sally Ann, Blue Lake, or bumbling down the PCT near Kodak Peak. I chose to go to Blue Lake, since I wanted to see part of Pilot Ridge anyway, beautiful! As I got back to my campsite I saw a thru-hiker dip his water bottle into one of the tarns and take a good hearty swig. Bleach! Day 4: Headed to White Pass. Wow, what amazing country. Nothing but gorgeous rolly meadows as far as you can see. And the views just didn't stop. Even the forest you pass through North of Kodak Peak is beautiful. Water was a bit easier to find North of Kodak Peak, but still not plentiful. I made camp at White Pass near a running creek. This was one of the horseiest places I saw, but I was tired so there you go. Day 5: Headed North over Red Pass. Wow! The views here are amazing! If you go nowhere else on the entire PCT, come here! Rolling meadows and ridges to the West, ancient moraines and perennial snow fields to the East. The contrast is really awesome. Water wasn't any kind of problem anywhere after Red Pass. I made camp next to Chetwot Creek, in very dismal forest. Ran into a thru-hiker who was hiking in sandals. Seems he sat down last winter and figured out how many calories he would save wearing sandals instead of boots and had worn sandals on the entire PCT. Since California. In snow and rock fields, and every kind of terrain the trail could throw at him. Wow. Day 6: Headed North (again). The Kennedy Creek crossing wasn't bad at all, tho I still managed to roll my ankle on a rock. It wasn't a sprain, just a twist so I kept going. I found a lovely little hanging valley with an apparently unnamed (and blasted cold!) creek running through it about a mile short of Fire Creek Pass. I don't think this was Pumice Creek, but I could be mistaken. I was tired, my ankle was hurting, I was hungry, and I saw a nice campsite right where the valley dropped off. So I stopped. Day 7: Another rest day. I puttered around and exolored the valley, did some laundry, threw sticks for the dog, napped, etc. Oh yes, Buster walked every bit of the way with me. He carried some of his food and all our extra water, and was a heck of a sleeping bag warmer. Day 8 (September 29): Headed South and dropped down to Kennedy Hot Springs, then up to Lake Byrne. I'd forgotten just what a grind that was (pack was down to 40 lbs but still). Lake Byrne was lovely as ever but it really was heartbreaking to see the devastation several years has brought. When I last was there, 7 years ago, the meadows around the lake were certainly impacted. Now the meadows are bare dirt with garbage around and illegal fire rings. I found a decent camp site and noticed a couple coming down the trail. I struck up a conversation with them and found out they were heading all the way out that night. I was tired. I was dirty. I was sick of eating instant soup and dehydrated food. I asked if they would give me a ride into town. They said sure as long as I didn't mind riding in the back of the pickup (I didn't). Turns out Charlie and Sheril live in Arlington and were planning to go to a Mexican restaurant just off the freeway. So after a stop in Darrington to call my husband we were off to some grub. Dave was waiting there when we pulled in. After a huge plate of food (hot! tasty! as much as I wanted!) and a couple of margaritas I paid the bill and Dave poured me into the car. So I didn't get to Lost Creek Ridge, and Mica Lake will wait for another trip (I don't think its going anywhere). And I figure yesterday was a 15 mile day (or thereabouts). And I will probably lose 3 toenails (it ain't a backpacking trip with out lost toenails). And it was a truly wonderful trip. I'll get some pictures posted as soon as possible.

[jenjen]

Here are some photos: Edit - photos removed temporarily for resizing Edit edit - I think I got it right this time.

Alpen glow

Marmot near White Pass

Meander Meadows

[Allison]

niiice TR JJ! But...I gotta say...55#? No WONDER you took rest days! Dude, you gotta get it under 30#! Your body will thank you. Maybe we should have a little "lighten your pack" clinic/social sometime?

[Allison]

Um. 30# was including the extra rain gear and warm stuff.

[Damian]

Hey ML looks to me like Quark don' t know doodly about squat. Whatcha think?

[jenjen]

For the record -- 55 lbs included 35 lbs of food. I planned to be out 12 days originally, and that included food for the dog. He carried his own grub when I didn't need him to haul water (kept his bag down to about 12 pounds). So my equipment weight was 20 pounds, which I think is quite respectable considering I was watching freezing levels down to 5,000 feet and who knows what the weather was gonna do. Food weight is probably high, but I just don't like most of the freeze dried stuff out there (does a number on my gut). So I do a fair amount of cooking. Quark, the Kennedy Creek crossing was fine. It was running a little over ankle high and was only tricky because I couldn't see my footing. I can totally see detouring around earlier in the season, elevation gain/loss be damned.

[Damian]

Actually, the locals refer to Kennedy Crossing as Quarks Swimmin' hole.

[kleet]

Nice shots; that place sure looks different this time of year (as did the shots in another thread about Chiwaukum/Larch Lakes). I'm glad I have a T-1 internet connection with the size of those photos.

[hikermike]

Sorry to hear about Byrne lake, odd that it became trashed so quickly. Mica lake is beautiful and the hike down Or up Milk Creek is one of the best old forest hikes around. The hike on Lost creek ridge is also very pleasant. My pack can be 28# includung a good tent and sleeping bag, it's just that the freeze-dried cardboard gets to me after a meal or two. I'm starting to learn to dehydrate my own food which makes balancing your diet, (I'm a diabetic) easier. Don't be afraid to load up a dog, they can carry far more (proportionally) than you can. Maggie carries food for two dogs simply because they don't make a pack small enough for Katie. (She's 3 #.)