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Arete Member
Joined: 29 Oct 2006 Posts: 137 | TRs | Pics Location: Bothell, WA |
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Arete
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Tue May 26, 2009 3:06 pm
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We took advantage of the sunny long weekend to play in the snow up on Mount Baker with our boys and two good friends. On Saturday (May 23) we were able to drive up FS Road 13 exactly 3.0 miles before snow forced us to park (along with many other vehicles). The first mile of road walking was mostly snow-free and it was obvious that soon it would be possible to drive within about 1 or 1.5 miles of the trailhead at Schreiber’s Meadow (this was the case when we came down on Monday).
Route from the trailhead (we walked 2.5 miles of the road to get there) to base camp (and return route shown) Five sixths of the crew saddled up at the parking spot (3 miles up Road 13; ~ 2850 ft) and ready to head up! Schriebers Meadow trailhead area
The snow on the road was easy walking, having been packed from snowmobiles, skis, and snowshoes. We made good time up through the meadows, staying on the snowmobile tracks. We followed the drainage east of the Railroad Grade up the lower slopes of Mt Baker, staying on some pleasant small ridges at the east edge of the drainage to keep above the fumes and drone of the snowmobiles.
The pack leader herding his mule train up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade Resting on the way up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade The Railroad Grade The stream basin leading to the upper Railroad Grade (from ~4600 ft)
It did not take us long to decide that we were tired of the big loads (can someone explain why our packs always look 50% larger than anyone else we meet – is that an optical illusion others experience? ). Thus, we abandoned our plan of following the drainage straight up to camp at about 6500 feet on the Railroad Grade (as others did) as too much of a wilting experience in the afternoon sun. Instead we headed up a short steep snow slope to the top of the Railroad Grade where we could find some trees for a shady camp. We reached the top of the RR Grade at about 5200 feet and found a nice campsite at 5400 feet in a stand of mountain hemlock and subalpine fir immediately west of the main ridgeline.
Heading over to ascend the slope up to the Railroad Grade Final slope to the top of the Railroad Grade Finally on top of the Railroad Grade Upper Railroad Grade (on left) and Easton Glacier Railroad Grade Camp among the trees at 5400 feet on the Railroad Grade
The boys immediately set about constructing snow benches for our kitchen, viewing, and part of their constructed “play room”, as well as a system of trails between the tents and various benches. Who knew Life Link shovels could be so entertaining?
Settling in for dinner at camp Our "View Bench" at camp Easton Glacier and upper slopes (zoom picture from camp) Evening light on the Easton Glacier
That evening we spoke with some overheated and dehydrated climbers descending who warned us of hot afternoon conditions and slushy snow on the glacier. That prompted us to set an early departure time as our camp was more than 5300 feet below the summit. The night was warm, well above freezing.
We woke at 1:00 AM and set about taking way too long to get everyone up and ready (getting the boys dressed and convinced to crawl out of their cozy bags at 1 in the morning was a major accomplishment ). It took us until just after 2:30 to get ready and finally begin the climb up the RR Grade by headlamp. The snow was firm in the previous day’s snowshoe tracks and we made good progress with crampons. We could see the lights of a few larger groups already on the Easton Glacier above.
Ascending the Railroad Grade by headlamp
Unfortunately just a half hour outside of camp, our younger boy had serious problems with his new boots – painful rubbing and heel slipping. We perched ourselves on the ridge and by headlamp we spent the better part of an hour trying various sock and lacing combinations without success. Finding boots to fit wide 8-yr old boy’s feet that can be used for occasional light mountaineering has been very difficult. There have been some plastic boots that fit, but they proved too heavy and clunky – making him just as tired and cranky as his parents. At any rate, without a good solution, Mom offered to descend back to the tent with a disappointed boy (who ended up having a snooze and great time hanging out at camp and playing in the snow all day).
Our other son, myself and our two friends continued upward, to the crunch of crampons and hints of early morning light to the east. It was very warm for an alpine start. At about 6500 feet we came upon a helmet lying in the snow, headlamp attached and shining, with no body attached. Spooky. Later we found out it had been dropped at a rest stop above and slid down to where we found it. We traversed onto the glacier at about 6600 feet, now with a beautiful pink sky. The boot track up the lower glacier was obvious, passing camps at 7000 and about 7200 feet.
Ascending to the lower Easton Glacier Ascending the lower Easton Glacier Looking up the Easton Glacier in the early morning light Arched serac at sunrise View up the upper Easton Glacier in early morning (zoom picture; distances foreshortened) Following the track of footprints up the Easton Glacier Approximate climbing route on the Easton Glacier
We slowly made our way up to the rim Sherman Crater (9660 ft) with only one significant crevasse crossing (solid and wide bridge). However, the crevasses should be opening up quickly with the afternoon temperatures we experienced. We rested at the crater rim, having a delightful brunch, bathed in the aroma of sulfur .
The sun finally hits on the Easton Glacier On the upper Easton Glacier The Sherman Crater above Ascending the upper Easton Glacier (~8500 ft) Arriving at the edge of Sherman Crater (10,660 ft)
That long rest rejuvenated us and we headed up the final 30 degree slopes just above the crater to the summit plateau. By the time we got to the summit (10,781 ft), it was early afternoon and most everyone with common sense was well on their way down the mountain (or had skis with them for a quick descent).
Leaving the Sherman Crater (9740 ft) Ascending the upper slopes (10,000 ft) Shedding layers (10,400 ft) as we work up the steep final slopes above Sherman Crater Aidan on the warm trudge across the summit plateau Looking across the summit plateau at the true summit Three fourths of the summit team on top
The summit view was as glorious as ever and despite the increasing warmth we hung out for an hour, soaking in the vista.
View SE from the summit Looking east from the summit, Mt Shuksan in the foreground
The descent was soft on the upper slopes and we met a snowmobiler at the crater rim (9600 ft). Further down the glacier it quickly became a furnace and “Baking on Baker” became our motto. The glacier turned into a delightfully slippery layer of calf- to knee-deep slush . We had carried snowshoes to the crater rim and were glad to have them on the descent , though the snowshoes without teeth on the rim did not grip well and acted more as slippery skis (prompting those with such snowshoes to take them off and posthole down steeper slopes and declare an intention to get better snowshoes!). We pulled into camp in the early evening, tired and literally fried (baked, sautéed, boiled, and other such versions of being cooked alive) . Our universal advice was to get back to camp by noon if at all possible (though folks camped higher in exposed places described their tents as ovens in the afternoon).
Descending across the summit plateau Snowmobile at the Sherman Crater (9660 ft) Baking on Baker during the descent Fine freeze-dried dining Enjoying the comforts of camp
The next day we woke with sunburns and swollen lips, prompting us to don bandanas for the trip out. We had a campsite glissade party on nearby slopes that our younger son and his mom had scouted while we were climbing – including the infamous “drop of doom” that most of the adults were too scared to tackle.
Early morning sunlight on camp (Memorial Day) Glissading party before leaving camp Snow sliding fun before breaking camp Team Bandit preparing to leave camp
We descended the RR Grade to about 4400 feet where we dropped off the ridge to the east down a steep treed slope to the drainage we had ascended two days earlier. This was an okay route down, but probably not as easy as following the snowmobile route that comes up onto the RR grade from its western side. Once down in the drainage to the east of the RR Grade we easily followed the snowmobile tracks out to the road (many fewer of these buzzing machines on Monday ).
Starting down the Railroad Grade from camp Descending the Railroad Grade Descending the Railroad Grade Descending off of the Railroad Grade The tree slope we descended off of the Railroad Grade at 4400 feet
It is a fun climb and the glacier is currently in good shape – just plan on being down off the glacier in some cooler place by afternoon!
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Awesome TR as usual, your kids get to enjoy some great adventures.
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Tue May 26, 2009 4:31 pm
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EXCELLENT!!! in every way ... great tr and pix ... but awesome effort .... you guys rock!
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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David¹ Token Canadian
Joined: 25 Jul 2002 Posts: 3040 | TRs | Pics Location: The Great White North |
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David¹
Token Canadian
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Tue May 26, 2009 4:50 pm
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Great Beta - Thanks
Nice to see the young ones up there.
I'm looking to climb Baker...
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huron Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2004 Posts: 1037 | TRs | Pics
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huron
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Tue May 26, 2009 5:37 pm
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Ambitious! Every kid should have parents like that.
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peltoms Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 1760 | TRs | Pics Location: Worcester MA |
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peltoms
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Tue May 26, 2009 5:38 pm
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Nice campsite, good execution of the summit plant. Railroad grade ascents not the death defying thrill of the snow free period. What a perfect day.
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Layback Cascades Expatriate
Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 5712 | TRs | Pics Location: Back East |
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate
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Tue May 26, 2009 5:56 pm
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Awesome! Those kids rock! And their parents too!
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Shadow Member
Joined: 02 Jan 2008 Posts: 87 | TRs | Pics Location: Burien, WA |
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Shadow
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Tue May 26, 2009 8:51 pm
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Great report and I remember seeing you and the kids up there
Arete wrote: | At about 6500 feet we came upon a helmet lying in the snow, headlamp attached and shining, with no body attached. Spooky. |
It was one of the people in my party that dropped that helmet and I made a diving effort to try and catch it as it flew by in the dark, but just missed it and could only watch as it rolled several hundred feet down the hill! Anyways it was still there when we got back.
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Tue May 26, 2009 8:57 pm
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Sadie's Driver Sadie's Driver
Joined: 24 Apr 2006 Posts: 1763 | TRs | Pics Location: Welcome Pass |
Four-paw buddy lets me tag along!
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the Zachster Member
Joined: 17 Jan 2007 Posts: 4776 | TRs | Pics Location: dog training |
What a GREAT family outing! Thanks for the great report and photos! I was up there about 10 years ago and didn't take the time to get photos (pre-digital days...it was more cumbersome...). Your shots are exactly how I remember it...thanks!
"May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"
"May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"
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Ingunn Hiking Viking
Joined: 01 Feb 2008 Posts: 1751 | TRs | Pics Location: Redmond |
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Ingunn
Hiking Viking
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Tue May 26, 2009 10:23 pm
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Tue May 26, 2009 10:41 pm
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I hope your kids, and you also, are enjoying this as much as it looks like you do. What terrific family experiences.
Nice job of getting photos in camp and along the way also.
The "snow sliding fun" photo looks like you pasted the kid onto the side of the snow bank.
Bummer about the younger boy's boots, but it seems like you all had a great time anyway.
I know what you mean about boys digging with the shovels. My son wasn't much into hiking, but when we stayed at the Mountaineers lodges in winters, he'd spend hours on end digging structures in the snow.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Roald Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2007 Posts: 367 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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Roald
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Tue May 26, 2009 10:54 pm
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Awesome! Congrats to kids, and parents! The only bummer part in the story was the bit about the snowmobiler. But even they can't spoil a terrific story, and outing.
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Yana Hater
Joined: 04 Jun 2004 Posts: 4212 | TRs | Pics Location: Out Hating |
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Yana
Hater
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Tue May 26, 2009 11:24 pm
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Your family outings are amazing.
PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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