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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Wed Jun 03, 2009 11:57 pm
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Short story:
Long story:
He really wanted to go with us
I really enjoyed this summit. It has a lot going for it. Almost three hours of driving to get there, a tourist filled lake close in, an amazing valley of old growth and magnificent boulders, one of the nicest backcountry camps I have been in, some steep forest, and old burn and avalanche field, a wet gully, scree and talus, snow filled gullies, and a final scramble to reach the summit.
Adam Brent and Nancy Dave and Lisa Bill and Nancy Setting a new standard
We went in on saturday May 30. Some of our party was delayed, lost, and unequipped. Maybe they will join us later. There was no hurry, so we didn't. Lena Lake is very nice, and many families were camped there.
Mandatory trail poodle So far so good Overhang Whiskey Tango Foxtrot? The wonder
The trail signage is very good. The valley of the Silent Men lived up to it's reputation. Gorgeous old trees and boulders fill the valley. The climbers camp is between two forks of Lena Creek. Check upstream both ways for additional camps.
Wilderness Amazed at the valley Roots from rock Underground river Beautiful valley Big boulders 1/3 of team 'False Start'
We partied hard, and listened to the other climbers in camp having just returned from the summit. Clues in hand we felt good about the next days plan. Brent cooked us chicken and rice and corn with a cream sauce. Adam stoked a small fire.
Naptime Good conversation Camp mayhem More WTF
It was light when we left camp at 5:30. Easy trail cruised up through the timber, always within sound of the stream. We entered the burned/avalanched area, and wandered among two different paths.
Dark thirty start Men A ways to go Good morning A bit brushy Cairn and stream gully
A gully with water and loose rocks is easily followed upward. The entire lower route had no shortage of flags and cairns. We broke out of the gully and saw our first snow around 4500'. This is also where the goats started following us.
First snow, route goes right We are being followed Route goes right, always He's coming right for us!
Helmets and axes came out. No need for spikes today, but we took them anyways. The route is not always obvious. If a gully looks too narrow, then it is not the correct way. Whenever there was a gully choice, we went to the right. The only exception was the hourglass, which did not have enough snow to climb. This is easily bypassed on a ridge to the right.
Nice goat, please don't butt me Hourglass Pano, head right onto the ridge Nancy posing, Pete concerned Lisa telling the goat to move Old burns, avalanches
Back into the main gully, it steepened. By this time it was consistently 40 degrees. Further up it got to 45, 50, and for the last few feet it may have been 55 degrees. Self belay was easy, and good steps were kicked.
Back into the gully above the hourglass Steepening Abstract, you make up a title As alpine as it gets Getting very close
A dirty scramble, a small snow patch, and some rock work got us to the summit block. Woo-hoo! A five volcano view. All of the Cascades and many Olympic mountains were out for us. It's tough when I know the names of so few summits over there. We were up top for at least 1.5 hours!
Goofballs Peekaboo
We saw a man traverse over from the other summit. He mentioned a four hour bushwack and cliff dodge to get there. He did not recommend it. Two skiers were the only other people we saw all day.
Bill rigged a hand line for us on the way down the steepish rock. It certainly helped me make the first move. After that it was okay. Despite the steepness, decent glissading was to be had. Rocks are showing through, and we crossed two suspect snow bridges. By this time, the route has probably gone to hell. I highly recommend good snow coverage for this route.
A hand line is nice Brent stops to melt snow
In the burn on the way down we found another path that swung out to the north. It was here that I saw some large flower patches, and a nice waterfall.
Dirty stream gully Loose dirt in the burn Waterfall and phlox Adam and Pete Sundog and contrail
We staggered into camp around 300. Hitting the trail around 430, we said good bye to the mountains and finally made the cars around 800. Turkey sandwiches, chips, and root beer hit the spot.
Pleasant diversion Emptying of the campsite Fern falls Biguns Inlet crossing Evening approaches Lena Lake Olympic faces, my first
R/T 17 miles, 6000'+ gain. It could be done in a long day with a trailhead bivy, but if you like to camp, there are plenty of great spots.
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Andy D. Member
Joined: 19 Apr 2004 Posts: 209 | TRs | Pics Location: Bow, WA |
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Andy D.
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 12:10 am
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Nice work, that's quite a team! I have pictures of that same waterfall, I remember it being really neat! I am also not too familiar with the Olympics peaks, so I started labeling your panoramic to help me out
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GeoTom Member
Joined: 19 May 2005 Posts: 3215 | TRs | Pics Location: Earth |
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GeoTom
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:44 am
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Another entertaining read Magellan. Nice work spotting the trail poodle.
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Pepper Member
Joined: 10 Apr 2009 Posts: 80 | TRs | Pics Location: Ballard |
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Pepper
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:00 am
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Nice TR and photos, thanks for the report.
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JimK Member
Joined: 07 Feb 2002 Posts: 5606 | TRs | Pics Location: Ballard |
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JimK
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:21 am
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Nice report! Must be nice to have a clear day up there. Having only done it on rock, I agree it looks to be much better with snow.
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Spotly Member
Joined: 06 Jan 2004 Posts: 3723 | TRs | Pics Location: Spokane Valley |
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Spotly
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:55 am
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Enjoyable TR. The "Fern Falls" picture is excellent - moody.
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11th Essential Member
Joined: 09 Jun 2007 Posts: 203 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline, WA |
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Layback Cascades Expatriate
Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 5712 | TRs | Pics Location: Back East |
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 8:10 am
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That's awesome Magellan. Nice work.
P.S. That picture of your son rocks!
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dicey custom title
Joined: 11 May 2004 Posts: 2870 | TRs | Pics Location: giving cornices a wider berth |
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dicey
custom title
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:10 am
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Awesome
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ICLIMB76 Member
Joined: 08 May 2007 Posts: 222 | TRs | Pics Location: Tacoma, Wa. |
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ICLIMB76
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:13 am
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I have been on this peak many times and I have never seen a goat. I hope to every time but they don't appear. Oh well. My day will come sometime.
Good climb.
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Tag Man side hiller
Joined: 20 May 2008 Posts: 602 | TRs | Pics Location: Where the roots all twist... |
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Tag Man
side hiller
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:17 am
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Thanks for the report on the snow conditions up there. Nice backpack, I wish mine had wheels!
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Canuck Member
Joined: 05 Jun 2006 Posts: 2137 | TRs | Pics Location: Lacey WA |
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Canuck
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 9:21 am
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Spotly wrote: | Enjoyable TR. The "Fern Falls" picture is excellent - moody. |
Great pictures, but that one is a perfect Olympics picture.
Nice job on the summit!!!
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Highwalker's Daughter Member
Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 1575 | TRs | Pics Location: Bothell, WA |
Loved your captions and pix of the goats! Looks like a great trip.
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reststep Member
Joined: 17 Dec 2001 Posts: 4757 | TRs | Pics
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reststep
Member
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:12 am
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Nice report and pictures.
I really like the Fern Falls picture.
"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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EastKing Surfing and Hiking
Joined: 28 Mar 2007 Posts: 2082 | TRs | Pics Location: 77 miles from Seattle! |
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
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Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:21 am
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Great TR and pics. Hope to do the Brothers next year.
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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