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Jim Dockery Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2007 Posts: 3092 | TRs | Pics Location: Lake Stevens |
Mark Hanna, Steven Packard, and I climbed the gully route on the east face of Sperry Pk. on Sunday. I'd driven up the day before to check out conditions and take pictures, hoping the north face might be in (not). After reading Tom's great TR on Big Four I knew conditions were about as good as we get around here, so I was very happy when Mark called me back to say he was up for a climb on Sunday.
3 labels The picture by Connor Miller that got me psyched 4 labels Sperry East Face Gully route 12.6.09
The climb is relatively moderate, but it kicked our out of shape asses, and took 12 hours car to car. It was easy driving to the end of the Sunrise Mine road, then the trail was a cruise up into Wirtz Basin, so the approach went quickly.
Moonset over Sperry Steve & Mark in Wirtz Basin below Sperry
We headed straight up into a gully that splits the lower slabs, stopping to don crampons about half way up at an icy step. When we reached the snowy slabs below the steep upper face we were jazzed to see the gully filled in (we couldn't see into the first part on the approach).
Approach gully 1 label Up and across slabs to gully
We geared up at the shrund, then started dragging the ropes while third classing the first pitch. We belayed the second, which had some spicy mixed ice and rock (technical crux) with minimal pro.
1st Pitch Spindrift 1st crux
Lots of easy gully cruising on firm snow, with little nice little ice steps thrown in, made up the middle of the climb.
Ever steeping less consolidated snow leading up to the NE ridge got strenuous, especially where hollows below rocks or the occasional tree cut out footholds. Steven got the physical crux of the climb on such a move that required hooking a tree and pulling up with disintegrating footholds above a near vertical flute that dropped into the north face.
Climbing to ridge 1 label Looking down at last real belay just above crux
Becky says it is 300 ft. from the ridge to the summit, but he's off by about 300 ft. When we pulled over the hump we hoped was the top our hearts sank looking across a ridge at another snow face that looked very steep. Luckily it was just the straight on view that psyched us out, once I started punching up it I found relatively moderate going, but no protection. We were all running out of gas so it was hard motoring up when every move required full axe plunges and hard step kicking for security, but the sun was going down and we needed to move, so I gave it my all leading up to the summit, then pulling the ropes for Mark and Steve as they followed.
Sunset on Del Campo
We wanted to hit Headlee Pass before dark, so there was little time for summit relaxation. We guzzled some half frozen water, Mark and Steve coiled ropes, while I snapped a few pictures.
Steven coils a rope Me on top
Descending the west face went well, but took constant care with the firm snow conditions. We ended up facing in and front pointing down many places. The long traverse over to the pass was a sting in the tail since we were pretty tired at that point - frenching across the steep icy slope in the last light we were well aware that catching a crampon would result in a long ride into the valley below.
west face Sperry
Headlamps on, descending the pass was easy, then it was just a matter of putting one foot in front of the other down the basin, then the trail (which we lost a couple times). We hit the car at 7 and drove home down a silent Mountain Loop Highway.
Below Headlee
Man my hot tub felt good that night!
Sunsets behind Vesper
Ariels by John Scurlock.
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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Freakin sweet line!! Way to get after it.
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Yana Hater
Joined: 04 Jun 2004 Posts: 4212 | TRs | Pics Location: Out Hating |
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Yana
Hater
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Mon Dec 07, 2009 4:36 pm
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Oh, so this is what you do when the snow sucks too much to ski.
PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Hikingqueen Member
Joined: 12 Nov 2007 Posts: 2946 | TRs | Pics
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Love the pic of steven on top. Beautiful backdrop! You planned that one well!
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fwb Member
Joined: 16 Oct 2008 Posts: 224 | TRs | Pics Location: Mukilteo, WA |
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fwb
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Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:50 pm
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Nice job.
My uncle was working on checking out a claim next to that gully and I was wondering about it...
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silence Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 4420 | TRs | Pics
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silence
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Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:04 pm
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SWEET .. nice work guys .. way to kick butt .. jd your photos rock!
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
PHOTOS
FILMS
Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Wow, nice looking route. That looks like a lot of fun!
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Justus S. Member
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1298 | TRs | Pics Location: WA |
Wow, Strong work! Looks like a great route. Jim, those are some sweet pics.
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Mon Dec 07, 2009 11:53 pm
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Wow, that's doing Sperry in style
We're getting some really first class winter climbing reports so far this winter. Is the creek mostly dried up (iced up?) near the trail head?
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Chief Joseph Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2007 Posts: 7703 | TRs | Pics Location: Verlot-Priest Lake |
Nice! How was the river crossing?, and no snow on the entry road at all?
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
Go placidly amid the noise and waste, and remember what comfort there may be in owning a piece thereof.
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Tue Dec 08, 2009 12:41 am
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Strong work! Really nice pictures too.
What a week. Roads that are driveable to great climbing all over the state.
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Jim Dockery Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2007 Posts: 3092 | TRs | Pics Location: Lake Stevens |
If you have time off this week get up there someplace - everything looks good! Best conditions up high are on south or west faces where the sun melted deep - frozen solid. The ice in the gully was nice for climbing, but not thick enough for great pro - about half the screws we placed ended up being more psychological than bomber. The snow on the last third was also too soft for pickets or axe belays, luckily we finally found a few trees (none in the gully). The road has dry tire tracks to the end, you don't even need a 4WD. Trail is easier than summer, low water makes for very easy creek crossings, but some ice on rocks to watch out for if you're doing it by headlamp.
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BarbE Member
Joined: 28 Jul 2006 Posts: 1153 | TRs | Pics
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BarbE
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Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:43 pm
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DIYSteve seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:47 pm
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groovy
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Tazz Member
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7902 | TRs | Pics
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Tazz
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Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:51 pm
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