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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Tue Feb 16, 2010 6:10 am
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I left a busy and hot Buenos Aires on Jan 20th accompanied by my southern hemisphere hiking buddy, Leopoldo, for the nearly 20-hour bus trip to Bariloche, the largest city in Rio Negro province and the gateway to the Nahuel Haupi National Park. Nahuel Haupi is the name of the lake which covers some 540 square kilometers on whose shores Bariloche is located. The name is from the language of the predominate indian tribe in the area called Mapuche and means "Tiger Island."
After arriving to town, we left some of our gear in storage and headed over to Lago Gutierrez and a campground via a city bus in order to get an early start on the trail to the refugio Frey. The park has an excellent trail system and several mountain huts where one may spend the night and have a meal not unlike what you might find in Europe. We chose to take a tent, but did enjoy a beer or cup of coffee in the huts after a long day of peakbagging.
We spent 3 nights at Frey and scambled to Catedral sur on the first day, then to Catedral Norte on the second. Both had some class 4 sections but nothing too exposed. The area has some of the best rock climbing in South America and there were climbers from all over the world enjoying the great routes on fantastic rock.
Here are some images of this part of the trip:
One of several old tractors that I saw during the trip. Lago Guitierrez, where the trail to refugio Frey begins. My friend, Leopoldo, and his giant pack Forest fires are a big concern here as well Approaching high country Rushing creek on the trail to Refugio Frey House in a rock Cerro Catedral Norte, one of our destinations The Refugio Frey 1700 meters and Cerro Catedral This rock formation next to the refugio Frey was always crawling with rock climbers Looking over Laguna Toncek to the torre principal of Cerro Catedral 2414 meters Cerro Catedral and its friends Scrambling towards Catedral Sur Looking down to Laguna Toncek and the area of Refugio Frey Looking over to Laguna Schmoll with Cerro Roca Inclinada above Most of these towers have names and established climbing routes Summit of Cerro Catedral's torre principal, the highest point in this area at just under 8000 feet Leopoldo on his first glissade using an ice axe Flores patagonicas One of many great walls in the Catedral area A lone diente next to Catedral Sur El Tronador and part of Cerro Catedral in foreground El Tronador, the highest point in the area at 3,400+ meters Endless peaks Nahuel Haupi and peaks Lago Nahuel Haupi Torre Principal Looking over to Laguna Schmoll and Lago Nahuel Haupi Me on the summit of Cerro Catedral Sur 2388 meters with an andean panorama Mascardi, one of many lakes in the area My partner in crime, Leopoldo Cerro Puntiagudo in Chile On the way to Roca Inclinada Scrambling The last move to touch the summit of Cerro Roca Inclinada 2150 meters A valley with El Tronador in the background The top of Catedral Ski area On the ridge between refugio Frey and Catedral Norte Condor Condor Catedral ski area Catedral Norte Laguna Schmoll Laguna Schmoll
The next part of the trip was on El Tronador (the thunderer) which really sounds like thunder as the glaciers crack and rumble. I'll post on that soon.
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bobbi stillaGUAMish
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 8012 | TRs | Pics Location: olympics! |
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bobbi
stillaGUAMish
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Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:55 am
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fantastic amigo!
what a great adventure!
i love the Andes......
thanks for sharing your beautiful photos, too
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Nice Rich !
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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Tall Hiker Man Member
Joined: 23 Jun 2006 Posts: 346 | TRs | Pics Location: Cashmere |
Wow! Crappy weather - eh'? I understand it's hard to get bluebird days in Patagonia.
Beautiful! Thanks!
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Tue Feb 16, 2010 7:12 pm
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Tall Hiker Man wrote: | Wow! Crappy weather - eh'? I understand it's hard to get bluebird days in Patagonia. |
It really is hard to get good weather in Patagonia. We lucked out on these days, but saw the other side of the coin as well on later trips.
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silly_traveler ~ roaming ~
Joined: 04 Jun 2006 Posts: 1525 | TRs | Pics Location: Bellevue |
Neat!!! Thanks for sharing your photos
♫ You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. And you're the one who will decide where you'll go. Oh the places you'll go. - Dr. Seuss
♫ You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself any direction you choose. And you're the one who will decide where you'll go. Oh the places you'll go. - Dr. Seuss
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puzzlr Mid Fork Rocks
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 7220 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle |
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
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Tue Feb 16, 2010 8:12 pm
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Amazing. It's good to get a better perspective on this area. All I've ever seen are wilderness travel catalogs and they aren't exactly objective!
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Sabahsboy Member
Joined: 18 Jul 2006 Posts: 2484 | TRs | Pics Location: SW Sno County |
One of the most exciting reports I have read....I have, like so many, dreamed of Patagonia. This sure gets me interested. The spires are other-worldly. Your photos are great and depict a remarkable place that I have never seen before in any publication. Obviously, I have not been looking in the right places! I'll get on Google Earth and hunt down this area you traveled. Some of the photos remind me of another area of interest, the culminating mass of Kackar Mountains, part of the Pontic Alps of northern Turkey. Have not been there but the photos are most interesting, when you find them. Certainly, the planet has many choice locations for those that love alpine places. Be sure to share alpine plant shots from your S.A. adventures!
Forgot to add: to see a condor....wow!
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canyonwren Secret Otter Agent
Joined: 12 Jul 2006 Posts: 362 | TRs | Pics Location: Snohomish |
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canyonwren
Secret Otter Agent
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Tue Feb 16, 2010 10:09 pm
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Awesome! I've been kinda sorta planning a Patagonia romp for about three years--hope this next winter will finally be the time. I love this report! Very inspiring!
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ree Member
Joined: 29 Jun 2004 Posts: 4399 | TRs | Pics
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ree
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Wed Feb 17, 2010 10:14 am
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Can you do Laguna Toncek/Laguna Schmoll as a day hike?
We'll be in Bariloche area for a few days. Is that hike there to Refugio Frey the primo hike there? Any others?
Were the refugios crowded?
We're bringing a tent, but we were wondering if we'd use it much or not. How was the situation finding a place to put up a tent?
We have the option of doing a few day hikes or doing backpacking and was looking for any recommendations.
We have the youth hostel booked in case the weather is crap...
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Wed Feb 17, 2010 11:08 am
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Quote: | Can you do Laguna Toncek/Laguna Schmoll as a day hike?
Yes, they are both very close. Get an early start. 10 kilometers to Frey and maybe 3 more to Schmoll.
We'll be in Bariloche area for a few days. Is that hike there to Refugio Frey the primo hike there? Any others?
I would say, yes. The hike to refugio Meiling is beautiful as well. Take the bus from the club andino in Bariloche. The bus #50 from downtown will take you to 2k from the trailhead for Frey. A taxi will cost a bundle from downtown.
Were the refugios crowded?
Yes, but if you go in late Feb or in March, much less so.
We're bringing a tent, but we were wondering if we'd use it much or not. How was the situation finding a place to put up a tent?
Lots of space.
We have the option of doing a few day hikes or doing backpacking and was looking for any recommendations.
Definitely the regugio Frey and Meiling. You can do a loop hike as well combing several refugios. Check with the club Andino or design your own. You can be dropped off near trailheads and get a bus from others. No need for a car here.
We have the youth hostel booked in case the weather is crap... |
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ree Member
Joined: 29 Jun 2004 Posts: 4399 | TRs | Pics
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ree
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Wed Feb 17, 2010 12:39 pm
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Thanks a lot for the beta, Rich!
Was your friend familiar with the area? Was there a visitor center you could obtain maps? Were permits necessary to hike/tent camp out there?
So glad you got the awesome weather.
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Wed Feb 17, 2010 1:56 pm
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I am familiar with the area since I've been coming down here for about 20 years. A company called Aoneker makes decent topographic maps of the area that you can buy in Bariloche in sports shops and the Club Andino. No permits are necessary, but you need to register with park rangers when you begin the hike at trailheads.
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ree Member
Joined: 29 Jun 2004 Posts: 4399 | TRs | Pics
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ree
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Wed Feb 17, 2010 9:25 pm
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5634 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Thu Feb 18, 2010 4:03 am
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They are generally posted near the beginning of major trails and are called "guadaparques." If they are not around, you may be able to self-register like we do at trailheads in the Cascades.
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