"The Mountains are calling and I must go." -John Muir
"The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes " -Marcel Proust
" Life is NOT a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming -- ’WOW, what a ride!!! "
Trip Stats:
Distance: 39 Miles
Elevation Gain: 11,000 feet
Time: 2 1/2 days
Who Came: Gimpilator, Redwic, Michael Lewis, and Josh Lewis
Peaks Summited: Glacier Peak, White Mountain, Portal Peak
This was the longest adventure of mine yet, but at the same time a very rewarding one. This is the sequel of theGlacier Peak Adventure. Gimpilator and Redwic wanted to climb this peak as well, they wanted someone who had done this route before, so they hired me. I suppose one could say "I am never finished".
Before the trip Michael went to bed nice and early, I had youth group that night which I could not pass up. Then I decided to read books, trim my beard, take a shower, walk the dog (twice, he kept whining which contributed to me staying up) and then packed. By the time I was done with all this it was almost time for Redwic to pick me up. "Oh boy" I thought as I was having breakfast because I knew I was in for a long day of endurance.
I bought some chocolate milk in Darrington (as always) and from here we got to the North Sauk River Trailhead. The hike started out relatively easy, and I was glad it was cool out. I was to concentrated with the climb to worry about photography until we got near White Pass. As we got towards White Pass my sleepyness started to catch up to me.
At the Pass we took a break, ate some donuts, and carried on hiking. After traversing the bottom of White Mountain, we missed the turn off for Glacier Peak because the lower fork in the trail looked more used. I told the group I did not remember traveling as far east as we were, but I guess we figured this was the summer trail. As we were walking along, Redwic says "How far does this trail go?" and ironically a few seconds later it ended. "Now what?" I was wondering as I looked up the slope. We decided to go up a small ridge to a highpoint. From here we traversed down the ridge and onto the original path. This must have added a few extra miles... oh well.
I took a break to get some water and food while everyone else went ahead. It took me an aweful deal of time to get everything repacked and head out, by the time I started running, they were out of view. I did not want to be left behind so I charged up the hill, which ended up tiring me out. Fortunately they were not as far as I had worried, they stopped for me on a rock out cropping. As I layed down, I was told to find some shade to protect my face from the sun. I was very tired by this point, and laying on the ground was not comfortable. When I tried to reach my water bottle I noticed how hard something as simple as that became. I suppose the fact that I been up 28 hours had an effect on that. Once I got up, the dizzyness faded off, and I felt well enough to head to Glacier Gap.
The going was tiring, I was getting more and more drained as we headed up. "C'mon, you can do it, you must do it, no giving up this early" I kept chanting in my head as we were heading towards Glacier Gap. I'm amazed I was able to endure it, not just mentally, but earlier I had feared that if I stopped, I could easily fall asleep in an instant. Before heading out for the trip I had wanted a challenge, but I soon realized this was a little much for me, next time I think I'll get a better nights rest.
Once we got to Glacier Gap we set up Camp, and I was finally able to rest. In the distance we saw a small cloud which at first I did not think much of it, but it kept getting bigger and bigger. Once it got quite big and dark, we all wondered if there was a forst fire near the city of Holden or around Lake Chelan. Michael cooked me some romen which was very nice. This was by far the hardest day of the trip, as I went to bed, I hoped that tommorow would not be worse. I slept right away until wake up time.
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During the night in a sense one could say I am still climbing, I had a dream I was climbing a mountain and we got caught in a terrible storm. When we got down, we were in the city late at night and were wondering "how are we going to get home?" A nice bus driver said "I'll take you home" which we trusted. She ended up being a crazy driver. Fortunately it was only a dream which was similar to my Rainier trip on the bus ride when we swirved and I almost fell out of the bus.
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At 1:49 a.m. I woke up to mice trying to get our stuff. "They're still after our food at this altitude?". Michael and I had to chase them away, but they were very persistant and would only come back 10 seconds later. I checked the time on my camera watch which was 1:59 a.m. "Awww man!" I said aloud, because I had wanted some more sleep, but I knew in less than a minute the rest of the party would wake up for the climb up Glacier Peak. We stashed our stuff in the snow, got our stuff ready, and began heading towards Glacier Peak.
Once we got over the small pass, we started dealing with hard snow, which got a little steep. Everyone except for me started putting on there crampons, but I knew there was not enough time for me to do so, so I used the time to put on gaitors. The group seemed concerned that I did not put mine on. Michael and I headed down a slope which led to some rocks, after this we rejoined with Redwic and Gimpilator. Once we got on the ridge, we were finally on Glacier Peak. The starting out was tougher on me then most of the group, I was always pushing myself to keep up with everyone. As we were climbing up I could see a big cloud to the south, and to my amazement I could see red lightning bolts. Eventually we all had to put on crampons, and shortly after roped up.
As usual I was the guy in the front, things got easier from here. I figured the team still wanted to go fast, so when I went fast everyone told me to slow down which was a relief. After crossing the bottom of the Dissapointment, we got to the Cool Glacier which is when the crevasses started coming on. I had to carefully traverse a few, but after this it was much easier. Although I did not travel on a boot path by this point, I saw one in the distance which I got onto. There was one other crevasse which involved some careful crossing, but beyond this there was little crevasse danger. Once we got to the ridge we unroped.
From here we scambled up the final approach gulley to the summit. There was no ice coming down this time. I was very happy when we got to the top, even though I had already been there which it was 8:15 a.m. Gimpilator had redvines and some other food to share. We took plently of photos, and of course got a photo for Eastking! And yes it was cold!
We noticed the temperature rapidly getting warmer, so after 15-20 minutes on the summit we started heading down. When we got back to the lower portion of the ridge we reroped up. As we headed down towards one of the crevasses, I was suprised at how much softer the snow had gotten. At the snow bridge I tested to see how solid it was, my ice axe went straight though. I could see it was also over hanging. I told Michael "watch me!". I carefully traversed to the right until I found a good enough spot to cross, my ice axe still plunged through, but now I could atleast some what safely jump it.
After I was done, Michael crossed it, Redwic decided we should go even further over so that he has a safe crossing. When he jumped, his foot partly sank in, but he had enough speed so that he was fine, then Gimpilator crossed it, now we were all past it. From here there was only one more crevasse crossing. On the last one I realized it was not going to last long, Michael predicted it would only last a day or so. From here the danger was out of the way. We then headed for the ridge.
At the ridge we unroped, and headed down. I got a pretty good glissade, but soon realized I was on a Glacier and headed back to the ridge. From here we went back over the pass and to our camp. I went to sleep quite fast. An hour later I was woken up because we had to go. "I was in my nice warm bed sleeping, and now I have to wake up to the miserable reality" I mumbled to myself as I was getting up. I felt soar all over, and was quite tired. Fortunately some water helped fix that. Now we had to head over to White Pass. Travelling was not as bad as I had expected it to be, we reached the bottom of the Plug in decent timing.
From here Redwic and the rest of us got in a debate on which way to go to White Pass. We ended up going the Standard way. As we were resting, a marmot came up to us, which it was begging for food. I would have loved to give it some, but not only was I low on food, but I hear your not supposed to feed the wildlife. After a while we started to head up the pass. I wondered how bad the next two days were going to be, not only was I tired, but Michael and I were low on food. As we got towards White Pass we separated a little, Michael and I were in the front while Redwic and Gimpilator were in the back. While Gimpilator and Redwic took a stop, they saw an amazing marmot fight which I thought was one of the most interesting things I have ever heard of while in the mountains.
Taken by Gimpilator:
From here we got to White Pass, searched for a camp ground and set up camp. The misquitoes were back. As I was unpacking our things, BadDog was walking towards our camp site. Redwic told Gimpilator and Gimpilator said "I'm not falling for that one" which it really was her. I had told her I was going here, but was not sure if she acually was coming. I took a few photos of the sunset and went to bed.
The next morning there was clouds all around, it was quite misty, and I was very tired. Michael told me my boots were wet as well. Now I was unsure if I wanted to climb White Mountain or not, if there were no views, I would for sure get blisters, and it would be tough, would it be worth it? I almost gave up and went to sleep. But in the back of my mind a voice rang to me "Where is your sense of Adventure? This is not like you, your going to go out and do this!". Of course I gave in, and put sense to the side and got up.
I had to filter some water before heading out, Michael made some tasty hot chocolate for us. We then went to White Pass to climb White Mountain. At the top the views were quite good. Not long after we summited we traversed over to Skull Cap Peak. As we went along, BadDog knew that the PCT was only 50 feet below us, and from there it was a nice walk to Red Pass. Once at Red Pass it was a little bit of a scamble over some rocks, and from there we were near the summit. On the summit BadDog gave us some chips which we had a mini party. Redwic said "oh too bad, the peak is only 6,999 feet, just short of 7,000 feet". "I'll change that!" I exclaimed to Redwic, and he did not believe I could change it. I found a slanted rock, stashed it on, found more rocks, and after a while got it well over a foot taller. After this we headed down to White Pass.
At Camp I heard Thunder which we all knew it was time to dash out of there. We packed up camp, and went down towards the car. I met HulkSmash as we were heading down. We took a break at the shelter below. Then we met Opus, and were soon at the trailhead. It was a amazing trip, and it was neat to see more nwhikers. We had Denny's on the way home. And now I am off to Camp until August 21!
(Sorry I had to cut the trip report short, low on time to get to camp)
To see in gallery mode click here.
Redwic's Proposed Sub-Title:THIS IS MY AMERICA WHEN I GO INTO THE MOUNTAINS WITH BOLD MEN AND VICTORY IS OURS
It was a great trip, great team, and great trip report by Josh. He is the only person who I personally know who has summited Glacier Peak twice in nearly as many weeks. I think he was amazed with how much the route looked different from snowmelt.
Many people know I have been critical of several of Josh's past exploits, mostly in an attempt for him to learn and remember valuable lessons. But I also have known, with the right team beside him, he can excel. He is definitely getting stronger, more knowledgable, more experienced, and is a lot of fun to be with in the mountains. He treats others very well and does not say a bad word about anyone while on a trip. He tends to be very good with topography, especially if he has already been there, photography, as well as complex mountaineering and glacier climbing skills.
The main things I noticed he still needs to work on getting better are actually the simpler things, the same things I noticed 1-1/2 years ago when I first met him but that can be fixed:
1) Put on sunglasses sooner when traveling on snow/ice.
2) Put on sunscreen before the skin starts burning.
3) DO NOT run to catch up to his teammates, if he feels he is lagging behind or that the team will leave him (which they will not). This is especially true when tired, thirsty, hungry, etc.
Michael did a much better job of being assertive in the "big brother" role than I had seen him in the past or heard about him in the past. I was very happy to see that, and I hope he continues to progress as such. He is also a lot of fun to be with, strong, and knowledgable. I hope to do future climbs with either of them, again.
For Gimpilator, Glacier Peak meant the completion of Washington's five stratovolcanoes. (Sorry, EastKing, but Little Tahoma is not a separate stratovolcano.)
For me, Glacier Peak meant my 26th WA CoHP, or 2/3 of the way complete.
Besides several NWHers, we met two guys who were trail runners... They had summited Glacier Peak, car-to-car, ~32 miles roundtrip, in only 14 hours. AMAZING!
Some photos:
When we first arrived at Glacier Gap. No wildfire!
A wildfire brewing east of Bonanza Peak, minutes after arriving at Glacier Gap
Roped up for some glacier travel fun!
Gimpilator celebrates his stratovolcano achievement!
Michael and Josh stand near large crevasse
White Mountain, as seen from Camp #2
Ascending south ridge of White Mountain
Gimpilator on the White Mountain summit
Gimpilator and Michael start ridgetop traverse to Red Pass...
NW side of White Mountain: Much different than the S side!
BadDog and Holly ascend a steep cliffband section of Portal Peak
He would not settle for a sub-7000' peak! :-)
Gimpilator and I at the summit of Portal Peak
Heading back from Portal Peak (shown in background)
No matter what the nay-sayers claim, the Lewis brothers, even if initially by trial and error, have become strong and competent, experienced climbers. Like it or not, I think it's fair to say we are all going to be hearing the Lewis name for many years to come.
Awesome stuff guys! Craig, which counties remain? Did you see that Andy Boos just completed on Big Horn last Friday?
Wow! Andy Boos was silently closing in. I knew something was up when he had signed the Grays Harber CoHP summit register just prior to me, as only CoHPers would likely go there. I'm glad for him! I personally thought Paul would beat him to the finish line... I knew those two mountaineers would likely be the next two finishers of WA CoHPs.
I wish I could do Big Horn this year, but it looks like next year is most feasible. The hundreds of vertical feet of loose stuff doesn't faze me... I just need to find people crazy enough to withstand that mess and then willing enough to lead the final ~10' rock climb. That's a tough combination to find!
With Glacier Peak, I am happy to have finally summited the highest point in my home county... the county I have lived in for most of my life.
Here is my updated WA CoHP map:
The eye candy is overwhelming!
Absolutely amazing!
Shocking is i still have a smile on my face after that many miles.
"Bears couldn't care less about us....we smell bad and don't taste too good. Bugs on the other hand see us as vending machines." - WetDog
Albuterol! it's the 11th essential
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"Bears couldn't care less about us....we smell bad and don't taste too good. Bugs on the other hand see us as vending machines." - WetDog
Albuterol! it's the 11th essential
So you still have 3 more of the big bad Bs plus Oly. Hey, holler when you come down this way in November for Wahkiakum -- if I'm free and the weather isn't too bad, I just might join you. But don't bother asking about Klickitat or King/Kittitas 'cause I've already been to both 3 times! Come to think of it I've been to Wahkiakum 3 times too -- oh well...
Josh Lewis 10000+ feet elevation peaks completed in 2010: Mount Rainier, Glacier Peak (twice), Mount Baker and Mount HoodJimbopo (Micheal Lewis) 10000+ feet elevation peaks completed in 2010: Mount Rainier, Glacier Peak, Mount Shasta, Mount Baker, Mount Hood
That is already a heck of a great summer and for many a great lifetime! I am very happy for them both. Jimbopo has really kicked into high gear and a benefit to any trip as follower and a leader.
Keep in mind that Jimbopo is going down to California to knock off Whitney and possibly many other mountains and that he and Josh are setting up a rematch with Mount Adams and in winter both might be going to knock off Orizaba. Keep up the good work you two!!
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
0
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
Josh Lewis 10000+ peaks completed in 2010: Mount Rainier, Glacier Peak (twice), Mount Baker and Mount HoodJimbopo (Micheal Lewis) 1000+peaks completed in 2010: Mount Rainier, Glacier Peak, Mount Shasta, Mount Baker, Mount Hood
Today's date is the 214th day of the year, meaning...
Josh has averaged nearly 47 summits per day, and Michael has averaged nearly 5 summits per day.
Check your spelling and grammar, EK!
It should be something like 10000'+ peaks completed in 2010. That little " ' " makes all the difference, as does the extra " 0 ".
Great Job Guys!!! Amazing photos and report for us all to enjoy. I hope to attempt this summit next year. What a beautiful and wild area.
I was confused at first with the subject heading. It read "though" instead of "through", so I thought at first maybe something bad happened.
Kind of like "the trip was awesome, despite the fact of GPW."
Michael- What camp did your brother go to? Was it Malibu in BC?
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I suppose one could say "I am never finished".
Before the trip Michael went to bed nice and early, I had youth group that night which I could not pass up. 
Then I decided to read books, trim my beard, take a shower, walk the dog (twice, he kept whining which contributed to me staying up) and then packed. By the time I was done with all this it was almost time for Redwic to pick me up. "Oh boy" I thought as I was having breakfast because I knew I was in for a long day of endurance.
I bought some chocolate milk in Darrington (as always) and from here we got to the North Sauk River Trailhead. The hike started out relatively easy, and I was glad it was cool out. I was to concentrated with the climb to worry about photography until we got near White Pass. As we got towards White Pass my sleepyness started to catch up to me. 
After crossing the bottom of the Dissapointment, we got to the Cool Glacier which is when the crevasses started coming on. I had to carefully traverse a few, but after this it was much easier. Although I did not travel on a boot path by this point, I saw one in the distance which I got onto. There was one other crevasse which involved some careful crossing, but beyond this there was little crevasse danger. Once we got to the ridge we unroped.
From here we scambled up the final approach gulley to the summit. There was no ice coming down this time. 
I was very happy when we got to the top, even though I had already been there which it was 8:15 a.m. Gimpilator had redvines and some other food to share. We took plently of photos, and of course got a photo for Eastking! And yes it was cold!
As I was unpacking our things, BadDog was walking towards our camp site. Redwic told Gimpilator and Gimpilator said "I'm not falling for that one" which it really was her. I had told her I was going here, but was not sure if she acually was coming. I took a few photos of the sunset and went to bed.
Absolutely amazing!
Shocking is i still have a smile on my face after that many miles. 
