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Arete
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 137 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bothell, WA
Arete
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PostSun Jul 03, 2011 2:12 pm 
Three years ago we hiked up Ruth Mountain in the fog frown.gif and ever since we swore that we would come back to get the legendary view.
Summit view on Ruth Mountain in July 2008
Summit view on Ruth Mountain in July 2008
We left the Seattle area just as the light was creeping across the horizon of the Cascades and it looked like it would be a great day smile.gif . We were able to drive all the way to the Hannegan trailhead (3100 ft) with no problem. There were already 8 other cars there. After consider packing and repacking, debates about snowshoes and crampons (we decided to take both – for “training” purposes rolleyes.gif if nothing else), and general putzing around we finally hit the trail at 7:30.
License plate collection at the Hannegan trailhead
License plate collection at the Hannegan trailhead
As an earlier report had indicated we quickly ran into some tangles of trees in avalanche debris that provided early morning stretching of our limbs and vocabulary mad.gif waah.gif . The first mile of trail is mostly snowfree, but once it begins to climb many snowfields are crossed – riddled with moats that we thought would be fun to cross in the afternoon sun on our descent paranoid.gif .
Avalanche aftermath
Avalanche aftermath
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Plowing through the avalanche debris
Mount Sefrit looms above Ruth Creek
Mount Sefrit looms above Ruth Creek
Early morning light on  Ruth Mountain
Early morning light on Ruth Mountain
We were suprised to see as much bare trail as we did
We were suprised to see as much bare trail as we did
Crossing one of many snowfields above Ruthh Creek
Crossing one of many snowfields above Ruthh Creek
One of many threatening snow holes along the trail
One of many threatening snow holes along the trail
Glacier lily
Glacier lily
Avanache debris on the trail
Avanache debris on the trail
We passed by Hannegan camp and went straight up the snow to Hannegan Pass for a nice break and views down into the Chilliwack valley. There were excellent steps already kicked into the slope SE of the pass and we quickly climbed up and rounded Point 5963 on the east. The steep traverse was easy with solid, though increasingly slushy, footsteps in the snow. We used crampons that generally helped us to feel extra secure, but they were not really necessary.
Someonee's cozy camp at Hannegan Pass
Someonee's cozy camp at Hannegan Pass
The slopes up to the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
The slopes up to the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
Mt Shuksan appears as we climb above Hannegan Pass
Mt Shuksan appears as we climb above Hannegan Pass
On the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
On the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
On the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
On the steep traverse above Hannegan Pass
Rounding the steep traverse
Rounding the steep traverse
The 5600 ft saddle (in front) and final slopes to the summit
The 5600 ft saddle (in front) and final slopes to the summit
Around the point we traversed to the 5600 ft saddle on the north ridge of Ruth, where a group of skiers coming straight up from Ruth Creek appeared. We had thought about going that way but opted for the Hannegan Pass route on the way up as the steps we were following were so inviting. We followed the skiers up the last 1400 ft of the ridge to the summit (7115 ft) and finally got to enjoy the great views of the North Cascades up.gif . We used our crampons all the way up – they helped some of our group to feel secure in the steps, but again, we could have very easily done without them. The snowshoes were only useful as training weights on our packs (and later for slowing down our glissades as they accumulated snow while hanging from the pack shakehead.gif ). No crevasses were visible on the upper glacier at this point.
Shuksan and Baker peeking out
Shuksan and Baker peeking out
Janick at the saddleeon the ridge
Janick at the saddleeon the ridge
The 5600 ft saddle on the north ridge
The 5600 ft saddle on the north ridge
Chilliwack Valley and Peaks
Chilliwack Valley and Peaks
Whatcom Pk
Whatcom Pk
Chillwacks
Chillwacks
Enjoying the view down into the Chilliwack valley from the north ridge
Enjoying the view down into the Chilliwack valley from the north ridge
Starting up the last 1000 ft along the north ridge
Starting up the last 1000 ft along the north ridge
Climbing up near the top
Climbing up near the top
Looking down the final slopes from just below the top
Looking down the final slopes from just below the top
Approaching the final rise to the summit
Approaching the final rise to the summit
Arriving at the summit
Arriving at the summit
Aidan on top
Aidan on top
Janick on top
Janick on top
The whole gang on top
The whole gang on top
Summit area
Summit area
Cozy summit
Cozy summit
A couple of the old geezers trying not to look too tired
A couple of the old geezers trying not to look too tired
Mount Shuksan
Mount Shuksan
Southern Picketts
Southern Picketts
Northern Picketts
Northern Picketts
After almost two hours on top we decided to follow the skiers back down directly into Ruth Creek. The boys were clamoring for the 2500 foot glissade that had been reported from the previous week hockeygrin.gif . It was lots of fun, navigating mysterious drop-offs paranoid.gif , weaving around (and occasionally over) bergschrunds with yelps of surprise eek.gif and riding accumulating layers of slush (while debating whether the technical term was “slushalanche” or “mushalanche”). The only downside to the glissading was the 300 foot climb back up to the trail further down the valley frown.gif .
Route (black line) of glissade descent down north face of Ruth
Route (black line) of glissade descent down north face of Ruth
Looking back up at lower glissade area
Looking back up at lower glissade area
Glissade fun!
Glissade fun!
Photo for our next album cover following glissade descent
Photo for our next album cover following glissade descent
Ruth in evening light
Ruth in evening light
Descendiig the trail in evening light
Descendiig the trail in evening light
Good to be back at the obstacle course
Good to be back at the obstacle course
We got back to the car in beautiful evening light. All said, this is one of the more beautiful mountain scrambles we’ve done in a while and is in good shape presently. 10 miles RT and about 4600 ft elevation.

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rbuzby
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Joined: 24 Feb 2009
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rbuzby
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PostSun Jul 03, 2011 2:32 pm 
Nice pics and TR, looks like a great time was had. The snow probably made it easier, at least for that section above Hannegan pass. Did you see any avalanches off Shuksan into the ridiculously wonderful Nooksack Cirque?

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Arete
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 137 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bothell, WA
Arete
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PostSun Jul 03, 2011 2:39 pm 
Nope - we saw some old avalanche debris on the western side of the cirque but nothing happening while we were up there!

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peltoms
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PostMon Jul 04, 2011 3:51 am 
wow two hours on top that is great. How could your resist the fall line descent off of Ruth, great that you went for it. up.gif

North Cascade Glacier Climate Project: http://www.nichols.edu/departments/glacier/
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Yet
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PostMon Jul 04, 2011 1:49 pm 
Fun TR! Love the album cover shot. lol.gif up.gif Can I get I signed copy? wink.gif

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Arete
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Arete
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PostMon Jul 04, 2011 2:46 pm 
Hi Yet - here you go (minus autographs for now) dizzy.gif
ruth album cover_edited-1
ruth album cover_edited-1
We'll let you know when we finish it in the studio - though you may not want to hear the result hmmm.gif - given the musical tastes of our group it will be sort of like Gustav Mahler meets Emmy Lou Harris. paranoid.gif

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mtn.climber
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PostMon Jul 04, 2011 3:20 pm 
Looks like you were roped up. Having never done that route before, are ropes needed, or was it just a comfort level thing?

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Arete
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Arete
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PostMon Jul 04, 2011 4:53 pm 
We were roped for comfort / safety for the kids. The slope you traverse above Hannegan Pass is pretty exposed and a little steep - with a cliffy runout. It is not the kind of thing you'd want to build up any momentum on (let alone slip in the first place). They can self arrest but they haven't had enough experience yet for us (as worried parents). For experienced climbers confident in your footing on snow traverses and handling of an ice axe, the traverse would probably not require a rope (though we've seen others use one there). The last 1400 feet of elevation goes up the Ruth Glacier. At this time of the year there were no crevasses opened up, but I have seen some later in the season. I've rarely seen anyone else rope up on that glacier, but we tend to be conservative (esp when climbing with the kids).

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