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mtn.climber Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1203 | TRs | Pics Location: The Lost Horizon |
Glacier peak had been my nemesis. Having reached the summit of Washington's other four volcanoes, I only needed this one to finish the list. Twice before I had been foiled in summit attempts, and was hoping the third time would work out better. I enlisted the help of five other NWHikers to go along. Rob (OneLuv1), Greg (EastKing), Michael (Jimbopo), Fletcher and my youngest son Derek (Rocknclimb).
We left the North Fork Sauk TH on Tuesday morning, hiked to White Pass, and set up camp. We arrived early enough that Rob and Fletcher took a side trip and tagged Portal peak (6999'). Derek, Michael, Fletcher and Rob then decided to summit White mountain (7043') to watch the sunset.
White mountain from the pass Indian Head Sloan Monte Cristo peaks
On Wednesday we hiked thru the White Chuck glacier basin enroute to camp at Glacier Gap (7200'). The glacier is almost gone, but has left behind an almost moonscape-like setting. When I had been there the previous year, it had all been snow filled. Without snow, it was filled with boulders, streams, lakes and tarns. A really beautiful area. That night we watched one of the most spectacular sunsets I've ever seen. The sky looked like it was on fire. My pictures didn't do it justice, so hopefully someone else will add some.
White Chuck basin This used to be all covered by glacier Hiking thru the White Chuck basin Glacier lake Lakes in the White Chuck basin Glacier from high camp Tenpeak Sunset from Glacier Gap
Summit day welcomed us with clear skies, and we left camp at 6:30 to begin our climb. We stayed on the ridge until 8000' elevation, then hopped onto the Gerdine glacier and a well-established boot track. The crux of the climb was going around Disappointment peak. There is a short, steep section of icefall that has to be carefully negotiated before continuing upwards on the Cool glacier. Rob led us thru that part without difficulty. Shortly after, we reached the ridge (snow-free) that leads to the summit. It took us about four hours from camp to reach the top of Washington's 5th-highest mountain (10,520').
Glacier cairn Icefall we climbed thru Crossing the Cool glacier. Summit in sight. Almost there Views from the summit
Beautiful weather allowed us to spend an hour on the summit. We played "Name That Peak" as we gazed out on seemingly hundreds of other mountains beyond. The views were spectacular in all directions. Sadly, we soon headed down, but spent an extra few minutes while we scrambled over to the summit of Disappointment peak. Once again Rob led us thru the icefall safely and we made it back to camp about 2 hours from the summit.
We packed up and headed back to White Pass. Due to work, Fletcher needed to go all the way out to the car. He amazed all of us by making it from Glacier Gap to the TH in just over 4 hours. The rest of us spent one last night at White Pass before returning.
Thanks to everyone who joined me on this special climb. I wouldn't hesitate to join forces with any of you again. And an extra special thanks to Derek, who waited for me below the summit so that we could reach the top together to complete our WA volcano list.
Lounging at the top Derek and I complete the WA volcanoes
35 miles
11,000' total elevation gain
(Stats don't include side trips of Portal, White and various other high points)
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:47 am
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Edit: got to the computer.
This trip was absolutely epic. 2 epic sunsets, 2 awesome nights of stargazing, awesome weather, 4 awesome peaks, and 5 awesome dudes to enjoy it all with. Thanks to all, I had a great time (except for maybe the last few miles back to the car on day 3 when I thought I might just fall over and die on the side of the trail ).
Sloan on the way in berries galore lounging at White Pass heading for Portal Peak rob nearing the summit of Portal Portal (Stripe?) Peak benchmark Glacier from Portal Rainier with Kaleetan and Chair on my way up White, Derek on the summit Kololo at sunset the setting sun from the slopes of White Glacier from White White benchmark Sloan at sunset heading toward Glacier Gap in the morning steep slope down into White Chuck Glacier area sweet fun area to hike thru I love summer sausage glacial melt Greg hiking along reflection White Chuck Lake Glacier Gap the start of an awesome sunset alpenglow whoa dude Sloan alpenglow on Glacier thumbs up! last light from back at camp good morning Glacier starting out big rock that came off Disappointment Peak dudes are psyched! crossing from the Suiattle to the Cool gnarly hole getting closer climbers doing their thing Derek leading up the summit ridge almost there sweet bivy area on the summit, I vowed to return to sleep up here next summer rob on summit Lake Byrne? 3 Fingers, Whitehorse Sloan, Vesper, Big 4 etc. Glacier benchmark dudes arriving on summit view south view north, Eldorado in center summit poser Dave on summit White Chuck Glacier area the Cool craggy east ridge crevasses heading down and up Disappointment Disappointment summitshot Rob on the Cool back on the crux Derek working his way down Rob mobbing back to camp looking back last look very sweaty and very exhausted but excited for a beer!
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twodogdad Member
Joined: 21 Nov 2006 Posts: 846 | TRs | Pics Location: seattle |
Congratulations, volcano vanquisher! tdd
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teperilloux Member
Joined: 05 Aug 2010 Posts: 21 | TRs | Pics
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Wow, congrats on conquering your nemisis! Truly extraordinary
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Zekester Suckin' wind
Joined: 20 Feb 2009 Posts: 379 | TRs | Pics Location: Everett |
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Zekester
Suckin' wind
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 12:53 pm
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Wow, nice work (and pics)!!
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
Everyone is entitled to be stupid, but some abuse the privilege.
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zephyr aka friendly hiker
Joined: 21 Jun 2009 Posts: 3370 | TRs | Pics Location: West Seattle |
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zephyr
aka friendly hiker
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 1:44 pm
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Congratulations! 'Looks like you assembled a good team for this one. Great photos and report. That same day, Flow and I were a few miles south, high above Big Heart Lake. We were looking straight at y'all and discussing your route and where you might be. ~z
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Goats Know Gravity's Bitch
Joined: 29 Aug 2007 Posts: 194 | TRs | Pics
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Goats Know
Gravity's Bitch
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 3:03 pm
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Congratulations, on reaching your goal! Nice that you were able to do that with your son!
Here on this mountaintop...Woahoho...I got some wild, wild life - Talking Heads
Here on this mountaintop...Woahoho...I got some wild, wild life - Talking Heads
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rocknclimb Member
Joined: 10 Sep 2010 Posts: 474 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee Valley |
Could not have asked for a better group of people to climb Glacier Peak with!!! Having the oppurtunity to climb Washington's five volcanoes w/ my father made it extra special.
Managed a few side trips up White Mountain, Disappointment Pk, and Kololo (nearly)...
Fletcher: that time from glacier gap to the car is insane Glad you made it safe!
Some extra beta on the route:
The trail from Mackinaw shelter to White pass is covered in blueberries and Huckleberries.
A climbing group reported seeing the northern lights on Wednesday, but unfortunately we had no such luck.
The sunsets and stargazing were some of the best I have ever seen.
Fungus Flowers and White Mountain Pano from White Pass Kololo White Mt. summit Michael looking at the view Glacier from white Monte Cristo range Sloan at sunset Monte Cristos and Sloan White and Portal Peaks Amazing landscape Honeycomb glacier Panorama Entiat Range et al. Summit of Kololo ahead Summit peaking through Sunset pano Spectacular sunset over 3 Fingers Rob and Greg The team Ridge near the summit Summit group shot Summit pano Crossing the icefall Icefall we crossed Stargazing 105_0640
When asked "Why do you climb"? Simply respond "Why don't you"?
When asked "Why do you climb"? Simply respond "Why don't you"?
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veronika Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2010 Posts: 3015 | TRs | Pics Location: On the road |
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veronika
Member
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 6:21 pm
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Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping
I may not have anyone rocking my world right now but, I don't have anyone messing it up either.
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Sat Sep 08, 2012 10:42 pm
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Nice work fellas. That is amazing that three of you were completing your Wa volcano list. Was the climb done without rope?
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Backpacker Joe Blind Hiker
Joined: 16 Dec 2001 Posts: 23956 | TRs | Pics Location: Cle Elum |
Strong work. Great pics. Ok, NOW what are you going to do?
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide."
— Abraham Lincoln
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ONELUV1 Member
Joined: 24 Aug 2008 Posts: 292 | TRs | Pics Location: On the HILL |
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ONELUV1
Member
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Mon Sep 10, 2012 1:06 pm
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Great group of climbers and dudes. I'd be happy to climb with any of you again. Hopefully it's not another 3 years before I see some of you again.
I am happy to have rinsed that bad taste from my mouth and associate Glacier Peak with some good memories.
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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
Member
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Mon Sep 10, 2012 10:45 pm
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EastKing Surfing and Hiking
Joined: 28 Mar 2007 Posts: 2082 | TRs | Pics Location: 77 miles from Seattle! |
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
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Tue Sep 11, 2012 1:58 am
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Here are some of my photos from the trip!!!
Here is my trip report on Summitpost.org
Slaon Peak On teh way to White Pass Glacier Peak New tarn Moonscape Glacier Peak in the morning Kololo from on the way EastKing! The team!!! Baker from Glacier The route down!! On the Cool!! Heading down!! Heading down!! Careful!! Glacier Peak Sunrise on the last day
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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BearQueen Ready to Go
Joined: 13 May 2008 Posts: 156 | TRs | Pics Location: Heart is on Lassen |
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BearQueen
Ready to Go
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Sat Sep 15, 2012 11:31 am
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Congratulations to everyone on this trip!! What a beautiful area!!!
"You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. I hope someday you'll join us, and the world will live as one." by John Lennon
I hope to do some summits and waterfalls this year with my husband EastKing.
"You may say I'm a dreamer, but I'm not the only one. I hope someday you'll join us, and the world will live as one." by John Lennon
I hope to do some summits and waterfalls this year with my husband EastKing.
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