Forum Index > Trip Reports > Moxes, Redoubt via the high route 7/12-7/15
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raising3hikers
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 5:34 pm 
Taps Mtn 7087' Easy Mox 8407' Hard Mox 8504' Mt Redoubt 8969' Cave Mtn 7456' GregL and I had a plan to get to the Chilliwacks and climb some peaks up there. He would be coming in through Depot Creek and I would meet him up there from the Hannegan Pass TH to the Redoubt high route. Day 1 7/12/13 I left the Hannegan Pass TH at 6:30 am and hiked up the trail under partly sunny skies and little snow to the pass. I passed 2 hikers shortly after starting out and they were the only 2 I saw on the entire trip besides Greg. There were only a couple of down trees along the trail. I then had to descend to the Chilliwack River valley which was surprisingly in good shape. The forest was green and lush with larger trees as I dropped in elevation. The cable car crossing was fun as I got to sit down for a minute while crossing the river. I then had to start gaining up to Whatcom Pass on the Brush Creek trail. That trail only had a few down logs but had many areas of high ferns and brush that covered the trail but it was easy to follow. Around the Greybeil camp, I startled a bear which quickly ran off in the other direction. I reached Whatcom Pass to some nice views of Whatcom Peak, it was a good place to have a longer break.
little white flowers along the Chilliwack River trail
little white flowers along the Chilliwack River trail
cable car crossing, it was fun
cable car crossing, it was fun
I had hoped to get at least to Middle Lakes on the first day and anything after that would be a bonus in making the next day to high camp even shorter. I hiked mixed trail and snow to the lakes and kept going. My route would then take me up and over Taps Mtn pk7087. The views back down South to Challenger and the Pickets were awesome. I dropped down to the other side and traversed snow slopes on the North side of Passover Pk to get to a ridge that runs North. From there, I looked for a good place to set camp which I found near the low spot on the ridge. I went around 21 miles and gained about 7500' for the day.
Red Face Mtn
Red Face Mtn
day 2 7/13/13 This day would start off wrong. I had hoped for a shortcut by traversing the West side of the ridge but ran into cliffs and deep gullies. I even tried going up and over the ridge before turning around. I wasted 2 1/2 hours and a lot of energy, I finally got back on track by going on the East side of the ridge descending into the green meadows around 5700' towards the Rustic Peak area. The traverse was slippery on the greenry but at least I was now on the right track. I crossed a mostly frozen lake with barren mountains above. It was extremely pretty at this location.
looking back at Challenger
looking back at Challenger
Cave Mtn above the frozen lake
Cave Mtn above the frozen lake
I headed up the easiest slopes to the East then rounded the the upper slopes to the West. At around 7000', I had to drop a few hundred feet while traversing steep firm snow towards another ridge that connects to Bear Mtn. There were several spots where the crampons were put on and taken off. From there, I could see down to Bear Lake as I rounded a buttress before heading up again. I reached the ridge and could see the main objective for the trip, the Twin Spires.
Bear Mtn
Bear Mtn
The Twin Spires
1 label
The Twin Spires
Mt Redoubt
Mt Redoubt
Instead of traversing straight across to the Redoubt col, I went up to the saddle on the climbing route of Redoubt. I crossed onto the Redoubt glacier and went down to the col looking for Greg. He wasn't there yet, so I found a rock and layed down while drying my boots and socks. After an hour, I heard a voice shout across the glacier and it was Greg!. I was so happy to hear him and we made camp near the col. Greg packed in the rope and all the climbing gear for the trip, his pack was very heavy. Thet was pretty good timing considering we came from different directions. Since it was still early enough, we decided to go for Easy Mox. We roped up and traversed the glacier towards the low point on the ridge. It was a little tricky getting up the wet slabs but that was the toughest part of the climb. We didn't need a rope for the way up as things went very well to the summit. There are class 5 moves but we were ok with them. We rapped once near the summit and twice to get back to the glacier. We returned to camp after a good day.
Greg on the ridge of Easy Mox
Greg on the ridge of Easy Mox
Hard Mox
Hard Mox
Greg climbing up Easy
Greg climbing up Easy
Spickard from Easy Mox
Spickard from Easy Mox
camp
camp
day 3 7/14/13 We got going a little before 7am and headed over towards Hard Mox. Everything seemed straight forward up to the Ridge of Gendarmes. From there we questioned ourselves a bit but found our way to the proper gully and up to the climbing route. At the start of the roped climbing, it was an hour to the top. Greg lead all the pitches with ease. We had thought of trying Lemolo (Hardest Mox) but decided against it after not seeing enough of the route past the Z-shape ridge off of Hard Mox. We talked and thought if we get back down to camp at a reasonable time, we could climb Redoubt the same day. So after 3 raps on the climbing section and 3 more down the gully, we headed back of the ridge and to camp to regroup and climb Redoubt. It took 8 hrs RT for Hard Mox.
Ridge of Gendarmes and Easy Mox
Ridge of Gendarmes and Easy Mox
Greg on the summit of Hard Mox
Greg on the summit of Hard Mox
Redoubt above Easy Mox
Redoubt above Easy Mox
Hard Mox
Hard Mox
Spickard
Spickard
We were tired but knew we'd give ourselves an early start back home if we climbed Redoubt. So we trudged up and over the small ridge to the South side and started up the steep snow slopes. We went up the standard route through the cannon hole and were surprised that there were a few class 5 moves in there. On the other side of the cannon hole, we easily climbed up and reached the summit. We down climbed to the cannon hole and rapped down. We returned to camp very satisfied and tired for the day.
the many spires on Redoubt
the many spires on Redoubt
another look at Spickard
another look at Spickard
sun setting on Custer
sun setting on Custer
day 4 7/15/13 We packed up camp, Greg and I went our separate ways by 7am. I was nervous about all the steep snow traversing I was going to be doing on the way back on the High route. It wasn't as bad as I thought and things went pretty well except for one part. As I took my crampons off for a long rock crossing, I got lazy setting them down and one of them took off sliding down the snow for a couple hundred feet. It could have gone much much further, I retrieved it and learned a lesson. I got into the area below Cave Mtn and decided to climb it to get one last look at the Chilliwacks. I found a register at the false summit that had only a couple entries since 2000. After tagging the top, I retraced my route back all the way back to Whatcom Pass. That included going back up and over Taps Mtn. That was the part I was dreading but it wasn't so bad. The rest of the way to the pass had stellar views of the Pickets.
morning fog on the Twin Spires
morning fog on the Twin Spires
Bear Mtn
Bear Mtn
looking back at the ridge that gave me problems, traverse right for the high route - don't go left
looking back at the ridge that gave me problems, traverse right for the high route - don't go left
Whatcom Pk
Whatcom Pk
Little Beaver Pk and Challenger over Lower Middle Lake
Little Beaver Pk and Challenger over Lower Middle Lake
I reached Whatcom Pass at 1:30 and thought that if I kept at it, I might reach the TH by dark instead of camping one more night. So I hiked the rest of trail on tired legs. I saw another bear near Hannegan Pass and finally reached my truck at 8:30pm. It was about 25 miles to hike out from Redoubt col but I was happy to be going home after a successful trip on a very scenic route. A huge thanks to Greg for making this trip happen, awesome climbing partner! 63 miles 24500 elevation gain 4 days

Eric Eames
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silence
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 5:57 pm 
awesome! up.gif up.gif up.gif

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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dicey
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 6:28 pm 
eek.gif eek.gif Nice work you two! Eric....you are an animal.

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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b00
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 7:26 pm 
speechless!

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tuck and roll
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 7:26 pm 
Great report and images. Some of the things you guys on here accomplish physically is amazing. up.gif

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Backpacker Joe
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 7:27 pm 
Krazie Klimbers. That's some strong work to be sure. Nice. up.gif

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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Magellan
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 8:05 pm 
That is an amazing effort! up.gif Gorgeous pictures too.

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Tom_Sjolseth
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 8:27 pm 
Nice work guys! That's a lot of work for 4 days, Eric.

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iron
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PostTue Jul 16, 2013 10:06 pm 
awesome work. awesome pics. you're too strong! great shot of bear mountain with the pond/tarn.

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Stefan
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PostWed Jul 17, 2013 9:12 am 
whoa. what a distance. next time get a passport!

Art is an adventure.
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Snowdog
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PostWed Jul 17, 2013 11:07 am 
up.gif up.gif no words---- remember way back, when you broke your leg? Wasn't that just a year ago?

'we don't have time for a shortcut'
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raising3hikers
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PostWed Jul 17, 2013 6:12 pm 
Snowdog wrote:
remember way back, when you broke your leg? Wasn't that just a year ago?
Getting close to a year, 10 1/2 months funny thing is that this was the trip we were planning to do last year a day after I broke my leg

Eric Eames
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dicey
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PostWed Jul 17, 2013 6:29 pm 
I Remember!! wink.gif

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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fishonjoe
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PostThu Jul 18, 2013 11:19 am 
raising3hikers wrote:
I got into the area below Cave Mtn and decided to climb it to get one last look at the Chilliwacks. I found a register at the false summit that had only a couple entries since 2000.
That was us in the register for 2000...The North Face Boys! Nice report and you guys were Kickin' it!

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Don
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PostThu Jul 18, 2013 3:03 pm 
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