Forum Index > Trip Reports > Cox Valley primitive trail, upper Morse Creek, Olympic NP
 Reply to topic
Previous :: Next Topic
Author Message
RodF
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 2593 | TRs | Pics
Location: Sequim WA
RodF
Member
PostTue Jul 30, 2013 3:57 pm 
This trail-less-travelled provides a dayhike into a series of the most verdant subalpine meadows to be found anywhere in the Olympics, filled with wildflowers and grasses knee, waist and sometimes chest high. Robert L. Wood's "Olympic Mountains Trail Guide" provides an accurate description. Those seeking a paved trail, and the enjoyment of chats with many visitors from around the world, may prefer the Hurricane Hill trail; Cox Valley is its antithesis. The trailhead is on Obstruction Point Road, 0.6 miles from its gate at the Hurricane Ridge Visitors Center parking lot. Parking is available 100 yards past the trailhead for one or two cars. It has been only irregularly maintained for the first 1.7 miles, so involves some route-finding and scrambling over windfalls and through brush. The November, 2007 windstorm broke many trees along the road and upper switchbacks of this trail; these windfall were cleared, but it appears not much has been done since. Entering the first meadow at the base of the switchbacks, the trail disappears - look to the right for cut logs and a metal tag.
0.4 miles: in first meadow at base of switchbacks, look right for cut logs
0.4 miles: in first meadow at base of switchbacks, look right for cut logs
0.5 tag on standing snag
0.5 tag on standing snag
0.7 post with flag at entrance to second meadow
0.7 post with flag at entrance to second meadow
At the end of each meadow (six, by my count), a keen eye for cut logs and metal tags on a few of the standing trees (or, more often, windfalls) is required to locate the route, through the forest of Alaska cedar and subalpine and silver fir, to the next meadow.
1 Mile sign
1 Mile sign
1.1 third, large meadow
1.1 third, large meadow
1.2 cairn
1.2 cairn
1.3 many cut logs
1.3 many cut logs
1.6 stream crossing
1.6 stream crossing
At 1.7 miles, one enters the largest meadow, where A. E. Cox built has cabin and barn. We found no trace of either structure. It appears young Alaska cedar are actively invading the meadow, so perhaps the site and any cut stumps might now be hidden within the forest?
1.7 Norm searching for Cox cabin
1.7 Norm searching for Cox cabin
1.7 Cox meadow
1.7 Cox meadow
Beyond 1.7 miles, the route has not been maintained in decades, and becomes ever more challenging to find. A good topo map of the old trail is necessary. Gloves might be useful, as there are many windfall to scramble over. Two or more pairs of sharp eyes are helpful to widen the search.
1.8 tag on fallen tree at Morse Creek crossing
1.8 tag on fallen tree at Morse Creek crossing
2.1 tag near bend of trail south of Morse Creek.  definite tread leading NE.
2.1 tag near bend of trail south of Morse Creek. definite tread leading NE.
Metal tags end at mile 2.1, and one is left hunting for the occasional cut log, often covered by more recent, uncut, windfall. Two more long meadows, and a miniature "pocket" meadow, lie along this route. The forest becomes dominated by mountain hemlock, with a some large Doug fir and even a few Grand fir.
2.2 second,larger meadow south of Morse Creek
2.2 second,larger meadow south of Morse Creek
2.2 second, larger meadow south of Morse Creek
2.2 second, larger meadow south of Morse Creek
2.3 pocket meadow, south of Morse Creek, west of Wells creek
2.3 pocket meadow, south of Morse Creek, west of Wells creek
We followed the route past the stream draining Wells Valley (mile 2.6) to the second crossing of Morse Creek (mile 3.0). Persistence is required, as we only found cut logs every quarter-mile, and a few old bits of orange flagging tape.
2.6 confluence Wells Creek and Morse Creek
2.6 confluence Wells Creek and Morse Creek
3.0 second crossing of Morse Creek, hidden beneath alder
3.0 second crossing of Morse Creek, hidden beneath alder
Only a few selected "scenic" photos are posted here. Dozens more "route finding" photos of cut logs and tags are posted on Picasa. The next 3 miles of trail might be easier to locate, as it lies on south-facing slopes, high above the Morse Creek, and sections of it lie at the base of well-defined steeper slopes above. This is only speculation, as there may be lots of brush and windfall... has anyone explored the route? It may be possible to drop off Hurricane Ridge Road at 3900 ft elevation and intercept the Cox Trail at 3700 ft elevation, 4 miles below the trailhead? This is point where its route is closest to the road. History. Gail Evans' 1983 Historic Resource Study says:
Quote:
South of the Ennis Creek headwaters and over the divide into the Morse Creek drainage, A. E. Cox, with the help of friends, cut a lengthy trail leading to a circular, level opening which he settled on in the mid to late 1890s. Cox arrived in the west in the early 1890s and stayed in Seattle in the height of the country's economic depression during the early 1890s. After moving to upper Morse Creek (known as Cox Valley on the most recent U.S. Geological Survey maps), Cox erected a log cabin and large shake barn and cultivated potatoes and hay. A friend named Wells filed claim on a larger open parcel nearby. Cox established his "ranch" when he was well along in years and presumably did not live on his property long. The Cox trail and ranch continued to be used as a stopping place by county game wardens, cattle drivers, sportsmen and campers in the 1910s and 1920s (Webster 1921, 57-59). The Cox trail is no longer in use today. All that remains of the Cox homestead buildings are collapsed piles of lumber and aging notch marks on trees that served to support the barn walls. None of the structures of these known early settlers in the Ennis Creek and Morse Creek Valleys are extant.
Lands Office land claims records show that in 1894, Aurin E. Cox, Moses A. Cox, George W. Wells and Harry P. Wells each claimed lots within the city of Port Angeles. http://www.glorecords.blm.gov/details/patent/default.aspx?accession=WASAA 087583&docClass=SER&sid=5j3lk0gn.jjw (Note: cut and paste into browser - not clickable due to embedded space.) The 1907 Lands Office cadastral survey shows Cox's Trail leading into upper Morse Creek, but, surprisingly, no cabin or barn was depicted. It also depicts a spur trail heading towards Well's Valley.
upper Cox's Trail from 1907 Lands Office cadastral survey
upper Cox's Trail from 1907 Lands Office cadastral survey
The 1911 Olympic National Forest map also shows the original Cox Trail. In 1911, a 160 acre homestead land patent (pdf image) in Cox Valley was awarded to the heirs of Ellen S. Cox (T29W R6N Section 28, E1/2 of SW1/4 and W1/2 of SE1/4). The 1918 USGS/USArmy Port Angeles topo map depicts two trails originating at the Krawjewski or Hambly ranch (now a gated subdivision), in the large clearing at the end of Mount Pleasant Road. The "Old Cox Trail" climbed to 2700 ft. over Lookout Rock (where the viewpoint parking area and three tunnels of the Hurricane Ridge Road built in the mid-1950s would have destroyed the trail). The "New Cox Trail" climbs above the canyon at the confluence of Lake and Morse Creeks, then drops to Morse Creek just outside the National Forest (now Park) boundary, and follows it almost to Maiden Creek, before climbing above it's north slope. It was also connected to the Morse Creek Trail down Lake Creek from Ennis Guard Station (now called the Heart O'the Forest trail from Heart O'the Hills campground to the Park boundary), and to Deer Park Road. The lower mile of these trails, outside the Park boundary, appear to have since been destroyed by logging.
1918 USGS/USArmy Port Angeles, Old and New Cox Trails
1918 USGS/USArmy Port Angeles, Old and New Cox Trails
Curiously, the 1918 Olympic National Forest map shows not only the Cox Trail, but also a trail from Morse Creek up past PJ Lake (possibly through Wells Valley?); both trails joined the Obstruction Point Trail. On the 1940 Olympic NP map, the "Old Cox" trail is labelled STOCK DRIVE, and an early Park memo said about 50 cattle were grazed on Hurricane Ridge under USFS grazing permits that were grandfathered into the Park for a few years after it was created. The 1942 Metsker map shows both the "Stock Driveway" (Old Cox Trail) and (new) Cox Trail. The Metsker map also depicts the 160 acre homestead parcel in Cox Valley. The 1948 Olympic NF map shows only the (new) Cox Trail. All maps from 1932 through the 1940s show a Morse Creek Shelter on the new Cox Trail just inside the National Forest (later Park) boundary. The best topo map I've found for route-finding on the upper Cox trail is the 1944 USGS Mount Angeles 15-minute sectional.
1944 USGS Mount Angeles
1944 USGS Mount Angeles
Note that "PJ Lake" on this map is depicted as draining into Wells Valley, and is a lake 2 miles NW of the PJ Lake on current maps to which the PJ Lake Trail leads. The lower trail is best depicted on the 1956 USGS Morse Creek 7.5 minute topo. Both are available for download from the USGS Historical Topographic Map collection. The full length of the "new" Cox Trail was shown as 10 miles on Jim Taplin's 1932 Olympic Trail Guide, and I estimate it at 11 miles. The "old" Cox Trail would have been about a mile shorter. A. E. Cox (Friend and local historian L. B. shared the following information.) Aurin (aka Orrin, Arin, Aaron) E. Cox was born in 1837 to 1840 in Vermont, married Ellen N. Saunders on December 12, 1866 and their son Francis was born in 1882. A. E. Cox died in Port Angeles on June 25, 1907, and his wife Ellen died in Seattle on January 7, 1908. His properties, the Cox Valley homestead, thirteen lots in Port Angeles and three lots in Seattle, were placed in trust to his son, Francis Gilson Cox of Seattle, on August 24, 1910. E. B. Webster (local naturalist, founder of the Klahhane hiking Club, and newspaper publisher) included this section on A. E. Cox in his 1921 book The Friendly Mountain.
"The old government trail" referred to must be the Mount Angeles trail over Victor Pass built by Lt. Joseph P. O'Neil's second expedition in 1885. Webster is also likely the author of this 1907 obituary of A. E. Cox, which also mentions "his ranch in the valley back of Mt. Angeles".

"of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - John Muir "the wild is not the opposite of cultivated. It is the opposite of the captivated” - Vandana Shiva
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Phil
Member
Member


Joined: 02 Jul 2003
Posts: 2025 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline, WA
Phil
Member
PostTue Jul 30, 2013 8:30 pm 
Beautiful! Never heard of that place... thanks for sharing.

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
IanB
Vegetable Belayer



Joined: 21 Jul 2010
Posts: 1062 | TRs | Pics
Location: gone whuljin'
IanB
Vegetable Belayer
PostWed Jul 31, 2013 8:19 am 
Interesting detective work Rod. up.gif

"Forget gaining a little knowledge about a lot and strive to learn a lot about a little." - Harvey Manning
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
cascadetraverser
Member
Member


Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 1407 | TRs | Pics
cascadetraverser
Member
PostWed Jul 31, 2013 8:23 am 
Rod: I am alway impressed by your thorough and historically relevant TRs as well as your willingness to travel to unique places. Thanks alot for another great TR!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
FrogFarm
Member
Member


Joined: 31 Aug 2010
Posts: 29 | TRs | Pics
Location: Probably eating
FrogFarm
Member
PostWed Jul 31, 2013 9:59 am 
Wow! What an amazing trip! I always learn so much about the Olympics from your trip reports. Thank you for taking the time to put together so much wonderful information!

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostWed Jul 31, 2013 10:46 am 
Amazing trip back in time Thanks Rod! up.gif

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
Ski
><((((°>



Joined: 28 May 2005
Posts: 12832 | TRs | Pics
Location: tacoma
Ski
><((((°>
PostWed Jul 31, 2013 12:28 pm 
Quote:
about 50 cattle were grazed on Hurricane Ridge under USFS grazing permits that were grandfathered into the Park
great report. funny the kind of stuff you dig up when you look.

"I shall wear white flannel trousers, and walk upon the beach. I have heard the mermaids singing, each to each."
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
ethorson
Member
Member


Joined: 07 Jun 2007
Posts: 114 | TRs | Pics
Location: Port Townsend
ethorson
Member
PostSat Aug 03, 2013 8:41 pm 
Thanks for the fascinating report Rod. Do you think any of the meadows are visible from the Hurricane Ridge road?

Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
bobbi
stillaGUAMish



Joined: 13 Jul 2006
Posts: 8012 | TRs | Pics
Location: olympics!
bobbi
stillaGUAMish
PostSat Aug 03, 2013 9:45 pm 
I have actually been to Cox Valley many many years ago! The markers helped us then and good to know that it's still there for you! We explored the area until I got into some nettles mad.gif Thanks for the history lesson up.gif

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
RodF
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Sep 2007
Posts: 2593 | TRs | Pics
Location: Sequim WA
RodF
Member
PostSat Jun 06, 2015 6:00 pm 
Over the past two years, friend Norm and I have cleared, brushed and re-opened the Cox Valley trail for 1.8 miles to the Cox homestead meadow. The previously difficult bushwacks through salmonberry are now gone, and it's a pleasant hike gradually descending through a series of meadows along the headwaters of Morse Creek. Visiting yesterday, I was glad to see a few bootprints, still outnumbered by the hoofprints of elk and deer and bear signs along the trail. Although only 2 miles from the crowds at the other Hurricane Ridge trailheads, it offers solitude - I've never seen another car at the trailhead, nor met another hiker there. The wildflower meadows are poised to explode into bloom in about 2 or 3 weeks. Late June would be an ideal time to see it The trail disappears in the verdant meadows it passes through. Look carefully for the old metal snow course / trail markers in the trees, marking where it enters and leaves each meadow.
flag entering Cox meadow
flag entering Cox meadow
deer in meadow
deer in meadow
In addition to the wildflowers, the payoff for this hike is to view the oldest dated arborglyph in Olympic National Park. Dated Sep. 24, 1887, less than 2 years after Lt. Joseph P. O'Neil opened the Mt. Angeles trail, providing access to Hurricane Ridge. To find it, entering the Cox homestead meadow, look to the left for the grove of Alaska cedar in which Cox built his barn.
Cox Ranch
Cox Ranch
Cox grove today
Cox grove today
1887 arborglyph
1887 arborglyph
Historic Cox Ranch photo courtesy of Russ Dalton, NPS. Nothing of the cabin, and only a few nails, notches and ledger boards and one rusty flashing nailed up in the Alaska cedar grove remain of the barn today.

"of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt" - John Muir "the wild is not the opposite of cultivated. It is the opposite of the captivated” - Vandana Shiva
Back to top Reply to topic Reply with quote Send private message
   All times are GMT - 8 Hours
 Reply to topic
Forum Index > Trip Reports > Cox Valley primitive trail, upper Morse Creek, Olympic NP
Jump to:   
Search this topic:

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum