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hiker1
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hiker1
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PostTue Jul 22, 2014 4:58 pm 
falling leaves / hide the path / so quietly ~John Bailey, "Autumn," a haiku year, 2001, as posted on oldgreypoet.com
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GaliWalker
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostWed Jul 23, 2014 8:43 am 
That's a nice article. I hadn't even thought about the non-existence of stars in moon shots, so I never even noticed the issue. doh.gif

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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Gil
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Gil
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PostWed Jul 23, 2014 11:16 am 
Next time I'm up there I'm going to check that out.

Friends help the miles go easier. Klahini
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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?



Joined: 25 Jul 2008
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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?
PostThu Jul 24, 2014 1:29 am 
Yep - and this is why I shoot with a high ISO when shooting indoor events, so that I get enough of the ambient light to make the picture look decent. Some venues are just too dark and I'd have to use an ISO beyond 3200 which would make the picture terribly grainy on my camera, but up to 3200 is perfectly usable, especially with judicious noise reduction applied in post as long as I can get close enough to the subject for the flash to be effective. High ISO + flash also reduces the tendency of the flash to create noticeable glare and harsh shadows, even with a diffuser. Seeing all those flashes going off at arena type shows just makes me chuckle, as do the conspiracy loons.

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Cyclopath
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Cyclopath
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PostWed Jul 30, 2014 11:38 am 
I don't use a flash but isn't this what slow sync and flash exposure compensation are for?

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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?



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Bedivere
Why Do Witches Burn?
PostWed Jul 30, 2014 2:00 pm 
Cyclopath wrote:
I don't use a flash but isn't this what slow sync and flash exposure compensation are for?
Are you asking me? If so, I'm not quite sure exactly what you're asking. Flash exposure compensation merely increases or decreases the brightness of the flash within the selected exposure settings. It's a good tool to help control flash glare. I shoot with manual exposure settings and the flash set to i-TTL then dial the flash compensation up or down a bit (usually down) to try to achieve a somewhat even exposure without a lot of obvious flash glare. Still need to use high ISO, wide aperture and relatively slow shutter speeds to let in enough ambient light to produce a natural look and keep the flash from drowning out the background lighting. Fast or slow sync determines whether the flash goes off right as the shutter opens or just before the shutter closes. I still have a lot to learn and haven't figured out what the advantage to either is, except that fast sync will let the flash spread further into the background than slow sync will.

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Forum Index > Photography Talk > "The Inky Blackness of Space" article by Bob Johnson
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