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Fletcher Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2009 Posts: 1870 | TRs | Pics Location: kirkland |
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Fletcher
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 5:40 pm
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Snowfield Peak from near our camp
Adam, Michael, Josh and I climbed Snowfield Peak this week as well as a few of its neighbors. It was a spectacular trip! Peaks climbed in this order: Neve, Snowfield, Horsemans Pack, Needle (Adam and Josh) Paul Bunyan's Stump, and Pyramid.
Synopsis
Tuesday morning we made the long hike up to the Colonial/Neve Col and set up camp. Then we hiked up Neve and watched the sunset. Wednesday we climbed Snowfield, then the Horseman's Pack. Adam and Josh climbed the Needle but Michael and I sat that out. Thursday we climbed Paul Bunyans Stump and Pyramid, then hike out.
Heres the full story...
Day 1
I got off work around midnight Monday and drove to Adams house to crash. As usual he disrupted my sleep much too early and we went to pick up Michael and Josh. We were hiking up the Pyramid Lake Trail sometime before 8am. We made quick time to the lake (pond) and climbed talus on its left side thinking it was the climbers trail. If you arent on a well defined trail you are in the wrong place. The climbers trail is steep but very easy to follow, we found it pretty quickly.
Pyramid Lake Pyramid Peak first look climbers trail
The trail is very steep and pretty brutal but no one really noticed on the ascent, everyone was stoked to get into the alpine and bag some peaks. A few hours in the trail flattens out very temporarily and makes its way around a tarn then contours up through a small area of talus. We noticed a bunch of small cages in the rocks marked by bright orange tape. We hypothesized that the park service was running a study on pikas.
pika cage
After the talus field the trail gets steep enough to require some class 3 moves, and shortly there after begins to open up on the ridge top to reveal big mountains in every direction.
brushy class 3 on the trail Davis, Luna, West McMillan etc... Colonial
Once the trail reaches the ridge top its eye candy for the rest of the approach where ever you look. The trail eventually drops to the left (NE) and spits you out in a gully where it peters out. From here its a long rising traverse on grassy slopes and talus to the Colonial Glacier and the newly forming glacial lake.
Redoubt and the Moxes from the ridge traverse to snow above the waterfall, Neve Peak in the center
We found a cool snow bridge near a waterfall which gained access to a moat leading to a large snowfield that would give us access to the Colonial Glacier. The moat was a little sketchy, we did not go that way on the descent.
moat moat looking back, the route off the ridge is in the gully just right of the obvious cliff face
From the moat, it was just a few minutes until we reached the outlet of Colonial Lake. What a magnificent alpine cirque! We took a break here and refilled on water. We thought about trying to cross the mostly frozen lake but quickly decided that was a bad idea, then found the route up a rocky rib that leads around the lake. There are a bunch of camp sites on this rib but we had our sights set on high camp. It was also extremely windy here. We guessed gusts of maybe 50mph, enough to threaten my footing with my heavy pack.
waterfalls with Colonial/Neve col up ahead the Cascades have another new lake Paul Bunyan's Stump rock shelters Pinnacle and Pyramid
Past the rock rib, we roped up and began and ascent to camp.
not much further to camp
The climb to camp went by pretty quickly. Views, ofcourse, growing better and better as we gained elevation.
Colonial Peak arriving at the col
Upon arrival to camp we were all amazed at the alpine playground surrounding us. The views across the Neve Glacier to Snowfield are something else.
wow more wow
After setting up camp, I threw my stove and dinner in a day pack and hiked up Neve Peak, just above camp. The others followed up shortly after I left. Neve is an easy class 2 scramble.
above camp broad summit ridge of Neve Peak summit Michael approaches the summit with Snowfield looming large
Upon arrival on the summit we noticed a large smoke plume to the NE. It was huge and grew bigger every minute.
whoa
The views from Neve are absolutely incredible. We cooked dinner as the evening light got better and better on the surrounding mountains.
that tarn down there must be a cool place Snowfield again Logan the mushroom cloud
The sunset from the summit of Neve was probably the best alpine sunset I have ever experienced.
another plume was ballooning to the south behind Mt Buckner wow Snowfield with Buckner, Primus, Austera and the plume Neve icefall brushing teeth in style on Neve summit Pickets Baker
We started hiking back down to camp but hung out high enough for the light show that kept on getting better and better.
sunset descent to camp
The light over Baker and Shuksan was unreal, sorry for the excessive picture posting. We tried to get to bed early, eager for our objectives the next day.
Day 2
After a windy night of lackluster sleep (atleast for me) I think we got moving just after 7 and roped up just below camp for the crossing of the massive Neve Glacier. As soon as we got into the sun, it was hot. The glacier crossing was scenic and straight forward. All large crevasses were easily bypassed.
roping up below camp approaching Snowfield then team with Hozomeen in the distance Eldorado from the ridge above the glacier
The glacier crossing went without incident and we tranistioned on rock to climb Snowfield via the standard west ridge route. We dropped a lot of our gear at the glacier and started up class 2 terrain.
Sloan and Rainier with what I believe is the Triad in the foreground climbing into the sun looking back down the ridge
We eventually reached a col and had to climb up and over and then down a rib to class 3 terrain, making our way toward the summit. The route is not always obvious but its never hard to find the way if you sniff around for a minute. The occasional cairn helped out a bit.
the notch climb this gully high mountain vegetation this ledge is exposed, take care up more exposed class 3 final bit to the summit summit area Josh on the finish Michael and Adam
We all sat on the summit of Snowfield and snacked. What a magnificent day in the North Cascades. Snowfield was 40/100 for me on the Bulger List, it was #50 for Adam. Not sure about the Lewis brothers. We did not break too long as we had other objectives for the day, so we reluctantly left our highest peak of the trip.
clouds descent dudes on a ledge down the class 2 ridge back at the glacier sweet bivy sight
Back at the glacier, we roped up again and made our way over toward The Horseman's Pack.
Adam on lead Horseman's Pack
We stopped directly below the summit, unroped and began the scramble. the beginning of this scramble is incredibly loose, loosest stuff I have been on in quite a while. We scrambled up and left to a notch, then over a series of ledges to a class 3 gully on the east side of the peak.
looking back to Snowfield the Horseman, an objective for another day traverse these ledges and go up this gully
The summit is incredibly exposed, we were okay with just touching it.
Adam touches the summit
The gully is very steep with a lot of exposed class 3 so we took great care on the descent. Watch of for loose rock too!
downclimbing the Horseman again
Back on the glacier, we roped up again and made our way over toward the Needle. Michael lead this time. Instead of traversing high, which, in retrospect, would have been the best way to go, we traversed into a bowl and up some fairly steep snow.
Pasayten T100s from the Neve Glacier Michael starting up the steep snow Josh and Adam below Josh tops out
Done with the steep snow, we descended toward a snow arete that would gain us access to the Needle's east ridge.
The Needle up the arete the Needle with incoming clouds
After getting all the gear situated, Adam lead the first pitch up the ridge toward the summit. Then Michael and I prusiked up. It was very easy, exposed class 3 at the worst. After that, Josh followed up with the other end of the rope. Adam built an anchor here and began leading the second pitch to the summit. It looked easy at first but as he neared the summit I saw him do a mantle move. This was the first indication that I might be at my turn around point because I have a gimpy shoulder that doesnt really allow for mantle moves right now. As Adam neared the summit he says something along the lines of "guys, this is very gnarly."
Adam nears the summit of the Needle Adam at the summit
After deciding for a number of reasons that the Needle was not for Michael and I, Josh cleaned the route. When he got to the mantle move and Adam told him he was not yet to the crux, Josh asked if it was okay if he bailed, but that would require leaving gear so he continued. Thats when I knew I made the correct choice not to go for it. Josh made the summit, and they rapped off the ledge down below that would allow them to scramble back to where Michael and I were.
Adam on the Needle nice looking Glacial tarn below the Neve Adam on rappel
After Adam and Josh were off the Needle we made quick time back down the arete and quickly roped up, the weather seemed to be deteriorating and we had a long way to go across the Neve back to camp. We made great time down the steeper sections of the glacier with Josh on lead. We were lucky to still have visibility.
looking toward camp Neve and Colonial Peaks crevasse and Snowfield clouds closing in we might have a whiteout on our hands...
Sure enough, we descended into a near whiteout. Luckily we were nearing camp. After having to turn around once because of some big cracks, we worked our way around the last broken section of glacier and just had to find the gully back up to Colonial/Neve Col.
ahh almost back to camp
Camp was cold and very windy. Clouds were blowing through hindering another sunset from atop Neve Peak. We had dinner and went to be fairly early with a big last day ahead.
Day 3
We were up and breaking camp around 7, moving by 8. We wanted to traverse high over to the pass just south of Paul Bunyan's Stump but it was steep up high and the snow was very hard. Instead, we dropped down a bit and then climbed the short distance up to the pass. At the pass we had a snack, dropped gear, and began hiking up the south ridge of Paul Bunyan's Stump.
Paul, Pinnacle, and Pyramid The route wraps around the left hand side at the dark shadow below the summit Baker morning Snowfield with the Neve Glacier icefall we traversed over the night before getting high on Paul Bunyan's Stump a bit of exposure the upper mountain
After wrapping around to the west side of the mountain, the route gets more interesting. It reminded me and Adam of the Corkscrew Route on Sloan Peak. The route never really exceeds class 3 except for maybe 1 more near the summit, but there is plenty of exposure.
Josh nearing the summit the summitblock Pinnacle and Pyramid Snowfield and the Neve Glacier from Paul Bunyan 1 label Josh descends the summit of Paul with Michael and Josh on top
We took great care on the descent with the exposure below. We all decided that Paul Bunyans Stump was our favorite peak of the trip. Such a rad scramble route!!
descent with views!
Back at the pass, we grabbed our gear and had to glissade down to a suitable spot to drop our packs again for the traverse toward Pyramid. The glissade was cold in basketball shorts.
Pinnacle and Pyramid
The traverse to Pyramid was mostly easy, except for a bit of bad runout nearing the col between Pyramid and Pinnacle which spiced things up quite a bit.
Pyramid summit
We lounged on the summit for awhile and ate more food. The views were amazing.
Diablo Lake looking east Snowfield zoom Chilliwacks
My camera died at this point so no more pics. We had a long way to hike out to the car so we began out descent. Back at the packs, we refilled on water and crossed the lower Colonial Glacier. At the outlet of Colonial lake the wind was as strong as it was the day before. Is it always windy here or what? The traverse back to the climbers trail was tedious but straightforward. During the traverse we ran into a few hikers that were checking the pika traps. Turns out they were finishing up their phd's for the University of British Columbia studying the biological diversity of pikas in the North Cascades.
Back on the climbers trail we all cruised out to the car. On the descent we came to the conclusion that this trail is, in fact, very brutal. Washing up in Pyramid Creek back at the highway was extremely refreshing. I took a nap on the side of the road because my energy was completely zapped. Another amazing trip into the North Cascades complete!
Mileage: I dont know
Gain: a lot
Video credit goes to Adam (gimpilator)
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
above the moat Neve Col Paul Bunyans Stump and Pinnacle Mantis Peak and Distal Phalanx Neve summit Baker, Triumph Pickets Alpenglow The Needle and Cats Ears Alpenglow pretty colors Snowfield at night Paul Bunyan Pickets crevasse below Snowfield Eldorado and Dorado Needle Horsemans Pack and The Horseman Snowfield Summit Shuksan and The Needle Fletcher ascending Horsemans Pack sweaty and gross on the summit of Horsemans Pack descending The Horseman approaching The Needle The Needle pitch #1 (exposed 3rd/4th class) pitch #2 had 2 low 5th moves and exposure josh nearing the summit Neve Col The Needle left and The Haystack Paul Bunyans Stump Michael Fletcher near the summit Paul Bunyan on the summit Luna is calling us Diablo, Ross, and Jack Pyramid summit An Egyptian on the summit of Pyramid
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raising3hikers Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 2343 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, Wa |
very nice it's beautiful up there
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contour5 Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2003 Posts: 2962 | TRs | Pics
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contour5
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 6:17 pm
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Spectacular TR! Some really impressive shots... Neve Col looks like an amazing camp spot....
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LukerBee Member
Joined: 13 Nov 2011 Posts: 102 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds |
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LukerBee
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:28 pm
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Those sunset colors are amazing.
He travels the fast who travels alone.
He travels the fast who travels alone.
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EastKing Surfing and Hiking
Joined: 28 Mar 2007 Posts: 2082 | TRs | Pics Location: 77 miles from Seattle! |
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
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Fri Aug 08, 2014 11:55 pm
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YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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mtn.climber Member
Joined: 29 Jul 2008 Posts: 1202 | TRs | Pics Location: The Lost Horizon |
Looks like a great trip!
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come.
Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5628 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:05 am
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There are too many superlatives to say about this trip report.
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Snowdog Member
Joined: 21 Jul 2006 Posts: 1027 | TRs | Pics Location: on (& off) the beaten path |
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Snowdog
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 10:03 am
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Nicely done gents!!
'we don't have time for a shortcut'
'we don't have time for a shortcut'
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Get Out and Go Member
Joined: 13 Nov 2004 Posts: 2127 | TRs | Pics Location: Leavenworth |
Just wow!...You guys...getting after it.
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
"These are the places you will find me hiding'...These are the places I will always go."
(Down in the Valley by The Head and The Heart)
"Sometimes you're happy. Sometimes you cry.
Half of me is ocean. Half of me is sky."
(Thanks, Tom Petty)
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zephyr aka friendly hiker
Joined: 21 Jun 2009 Posts: 3361 | TRs | Pics Location: West Seattle |
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zephyr
aka friendly hiker
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 2:27 pm
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Great report, Fletcher. That's a fine, talented team you all assembled. What an awesome place that is--so many fun scrambles and a glacier to cross. Good place to hone your skills.
Excellent video, Gimpilator. It really captures the essence of such a beautiful trip. Nicely edited and good choice in background music---upbeat but not overpowering. I am glad to see that helmets are still in style for some. Keep up the good work, gents. ~z
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Jim Dockery Member
Joined: 12 Sep 2007 Posts: 3092 | TRs | Pics Location: Lake Stevens |
Nice work boys, both getting' after day after day, and photos
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Michael Lewis Taking a nap
Joined: 27 Apr 2009 Posts: 629 | TRs | Pics Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now) |
Best trip I've ever been on. Thanks for making this happen.
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:43 pm
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Nice work, fellas.
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Jetlag Member
Joined: 17 Aug 2010 Posts: 1410 | TRs | Pics
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Jetlag
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Sun Aug 10, 2014 6:00 am
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That's a lot of peaks in a short time! Great photos. I can tell you saw the same terrific sunset over the Pickets, and the same stage of the two rapidly-growing fires that we did because your pics look nearly identical to mine! We were camped that night on an unnamed 7,000 foot summit just north of Jack.
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