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#19
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#19
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 3:45 pm 
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Written by Malcolm S. Bates, this might be my all time favorite "mountain" book.  The book consists of 50 interviews of notable Washington outdoor types from 1900 - 1992.

Starting with Emily Harris, the list includes, Harold Engles, Lloyd and Mary Anderson, Beckey, Spring, Manning, the Fireys,  Pete Schoeining, John Roskelly and Jim Nelson but has many other equally recognizable names.

I wouldn't think of trying to paraphrase anything these folks talk about in their interviews, but reading this book gives one a sense of whose steps we are often following.

I would highly recommend it to those that haven't read it.
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reststep
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 5:16 pm 
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I agree with you. Cascade Voices is one of my favorite books.  In addition to the names you mention there is also Will Thompson who was a member of the first party to do the Ptarmigan Traverse.  I think I have his name correct.  I reread it from time to time and enjoy it just as much each time.

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"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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Fred B
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 8:05 pm 
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The July 1938 Ptarmigan Traversers were Calder T. Bressler, Ralph Clough, Bill Cox, and Tom Myers.  

Cox joined Will F. Thompson to do the FA of Luna and E Fury in September 1938, and Bressler and Thompson made the FA of Bear (and just failed on SE Mox) in August 1939.
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#19
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#19
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 8:37 pm 
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Actually, I found each interview just about equally interesting and informative.  There has been so much already written about Beckey, Whittaker and Wickwire that although still good chapters, some of the less known folks like Norval Grigg and Harland Eastwood were surprisingly enlightening.

Now Fred, is it Mox or Twin Spires?

wink.gif  wink.gif
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polarbear
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 9:07 pm 
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It would be neat to have an online Pargeter with date labels on the peaks for first ascents.

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...and a window that looks out on Corcovado...  Corcovado Hill
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Sawyer
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 9:13 pm 
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The 1958 Mountaineer (at UW library, Seattle library, Everett Library) has a chapter "Ptarmigans and Their Ptrips" which describes that 1938 adventure. 1938 was a depression year and the four were unemployed. So they wandered that September, against the advice of the ranger. Nobody had been in the area between Dome and Cascade Pass. They went up the brushy Sulphur Creek drainage and camped at 7000' under Dome Peak on day 2. Then climbed both the SW and E peaks of Dome. (skipping a lot of peaks  and glacier travel...) They did the traverse to Cascade Pass by the second week.

But that wasn't enough. They also went up Johannesburg, Sahale, Boston, Buckner. By this time they'd lost most of the nails on their boots!  So they decided not to climb Logan and Goode, got sick on spoiled salami, then hiked to Stehekin River. They met some folks from Seattle who had cached food. But it was nothing but jello. Hungry, they hiked all the way over Suiattle Pass, Miners Ridge, and down the Suiattle to their Model A.

Ya gotta read the original, it's a classic story.
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Sawyer
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 9:17 pm 
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OK,  might as well list the Ptarmigan's accomplishments on that 13 day trip.

Day 3: both peaks of Dome, Spire Point.

LeConte, Spider, Formidable, Magic, Johannesburg (all first ascents).

Day 7: Spider, Formidable and Magic.

Day 10: Sahale, Boston, Buckner.

Sentinel, Old Guard, SW peak of Dome (all second ascents)

Ptarmigan traverse not repeated until 1953, third trip 1957. Those guys were animals.
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Fred B
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PostFri Feb 01, 2002 9:24 pm 
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Mox is Chinook jargon for "two, twice, double, dual, couple, pair, second."  These are indeed Mox Peaks, as the maps say.  Beckey was upset that the Forest Service came along and messed with his idea to call them Twin Spires.
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#19
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#19
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PostSat Feb 02, 2002 10:07 am 
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As in, it takes mox the moxie, to the climb them. biggrin.gif

Thanks for the clarification.
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salish
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PostSat Feb 02, 2002 9:36 pm 
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Thanks for the tip on Cascade Voices, Pappy. I just ordered it at Barnes & Noble. Should be in by next week.
Cliff

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My short-term memory is not as sharp as it used to be.
Also, my short-term memory's not as sharp as it used to be.
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