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Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst



Joined: 10 May 2005
Posts: 700 | TRs | Pics
Location: In Wonderland
Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst
PostTue May 31, 2005 11:40 pm 
The Memorial Day weekend was a perfect opportunity to return to the Entiats and work on my "list" of peaks to bag. Last year, I had climbed Maude and attempted Fernow, so Seven Finger Jack (7FJ) was a likely candidate. This time I was joined by Dave, with whom I'd climbed Merchant Peak in early March. We met up early Saturday morning, took Dave's truck, and began a leisurely road trip over Hwy 2. The weather was very warm, and promising to get hotter. After a brief detour to check out the top rope action on Icicle Creek, we made the journey to the Phelps Creek trailhead. We had a lot of company - it seemed like we were parking a quarter mile back! The register indicated that most folks were heading for Spider Meadows, however. We were hiking by 12:45 PM. The trail crosses many creeks, including Leroy Creek, and all of them seemed to be running high. Once we were on the climber's trail, Dave wisely set a slow pace. It was hot and dry! Still, there was quite a bit of snow on the ground as we approached the basin. We bushwhacked for a bit, then finally crossed over the creek and regained the path to the basin. A group of telemarkers had layed claim to the best spots in the shady trees, so it took us a little while to find a good place to camp. Finally, we setup on the westside of the basin, where the shadow from the ridge above soon reached us. It was 4:45 PM. From our campsite, we had plenty of time to get organized, eat dinner, and ponder the best route up 7FJ. 7FJ and Maude provide an awesome backdrop to Leroy Basin - it's easy to spend a lot of time just looking around. We strolled up to the eastside of the basin, where we encountered Eric, a member of the tele tribe. He and his group had skied down from 7FJ that afternoon, and indicated that the snow was pretty soggy. We chatted for a while, then headed back to camp to enjoy a cold one. Marmots were out in full force as the evening wore on. We retired around 9:00 PM. As usual, I slept little, too excited about the upcoming climb. The night sky was clear and full of stars - wow. A half full moon rose much later, but stayed with us well into to early morning. By 4:30 AM, it was time to get up and get ready - we've got climbing to do! It was 5:45 AM when we began the summit bid. Although the sun would be hidden behind 7FJ for several more hours, there was enough ambient light to see. Almost randomly, we decided to take the route the skiers had taken, which was accessed by heading towards the pass to Fernow, then cutting up a steep snow gully. Along the way, we saw another group heading to Fernow - they had camped about 500 ft above the basin, nestled in the trees. The initial gully switched to the left, then back to the right. The snow quality was variable - sometimes good for easy kicksteps, and sometimes posthole city. On occasion, the the skiers' path was available, leaving good steps to follow. When it suited us, we'd leave the snow to scramble up the sharp, broken and loose rock. The higher we climbed, the better the views. I think Glacier Peak looks best from the east. At around 8,000 ft elevation, we broke out of the gullies and had a clear shot to the summit. There was more snow and talus travel, then a quick traverse to the left, and up. Suddenly, there wasn't any higher to go - summit! It was a little after 9:00 AM. We shared the summit with a horde of ladybugs, took pics, and dug the sites. I tried in vain to find the summit log - perhaps hidden under some snow? Although it was obvious that we were on top of 7FJ, both our altimeters were only reading 8700 ft, nearly 400 ft off. I guess we should have taken a clue that the weather going to change. For our purposes, though, the weather was just fine. The skies were still clear, yet hazy, especially to the southwest. Rainier was briefly in view, then disappeared. The immediate vicinity and northward was spectacular. Maude looks great from 7FJ, as does Fernow and Bonanza. We could see much of the North Cascades, including Baker and Shuksan. To the west, low clouds were beginning to fill the valleys... Eventually, and with reluctance, we left the summit. Dave wanted to explore the idea of popping over to Maude, so we headed off in that general direction. The questionable condition of the snow, however, persuaded us to give up on that idea. It was only going to get worse as the day warmed up. Instead, we started heading straight for Leroy Basin, taking our sweet time to scramble down when possible. No hurries here! It took Dave and I nearly as long to down climb as it did to summit 7FJ. We returned to the campsite by 12:45 PM. An hour later, we were packed up and ready to depart. Once again, we took a slow and steady approach to descending the climber's trail. As we regained the Phelps Creek trail, it was impossible not to notice that the water level was significantly higher than the day before - the snow is melting fast! We took a short break, then stretched our legs out on the basically flat path back to the truck. All stream crossings were riding high. Somewhere along the way, my ice axe worked its way off my pack. Of course, I didn't realize it until we were already back to the truck. Under normal circumstances, I would have hiked back to find it, but a thunder storm hit just as we reached the parking lot (approximately 4:30 PM). Dave and I took refuge under the canopy of his truck, watched and waited as lightning, thunder and very heavy rain came besieged us for 30 minutes. I just hope everyone in the vicinity of Phelps Creek was able to find shelter fast! With the exception of losing my axe, the trip to Seven Finger Jack went flawlessly. The weather was great, the ascent went off without a hitch, we had ample time to enjoy the moment, and we missed the worst of the thunder storm. Can't wait until my next visit to the Entiats - I have some unfinished business with Fernow!
Seven Finger Jack from Leroy Basin
Seven Finger Jack from Leroy Basin
Halfway up 7FJ with Bonanza peaking out to the north
Halfway up 7FJ with Bonanza peaking out to the north
Glacier Peak as it ought to be seen  - from the east (unless you're climbing it!)
Glacier Peak as it ought to be seen - from the east (unless you're climbing it!)
Like many Cascade peaks, Maude looks much more imposing from the north...
Like many Cascade peaks, Maude looks much more imposing from the north...

Cheers, Mesahchie Mark
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Backpacker Joe
Blind Hiker



Joined: 16 Dec 2001
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Backpacker Joe
Blind Hiker
PostTue May 31, 2005 11:46 pm 
Nice report. Thank you.

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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Edd
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Edd
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PostWed Jun 01, 2005 6:51 am 
Thanks for the TR Mark. That was one of my favorite trips from last year. Our intentions were Fernow, but did 7finger and Maude instead. Here is a similar shot to yours of Maude. Also could not find a register.
Maude
Maude

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Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst



Joined: 10 May 2005
Posts: 700 | TRs | Pics
Location: In Wonderland
Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst
PostWed Jun 01, 2005 8:08 am 
Oops, that's not Bonanza!
I just realized that the peak behind Dave is not Bonanza, but another in between it and 7FJ. We couldn't see Bonanza until we gained more el from this location. doh.gif

Cheers, Mesahchie Mark
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
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Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostWed Jun 01, 2005 8:51 am 
Nicely done! borank.gif

Ebrace life!
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wildernessed
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Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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wildernessed
viewbagger
PostWed Jun 01, 2005 9:39 am 
Bomber, I think most everything looks better from the East or should I say Central Washington. lol.gif

Living in the Anthropocene
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Don
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Don
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PostWed Jun 01, 2005 10:09 am 
That's too bad the snow was so soft. But I'm not sure that it still isn't better than no snow at all. 7FJ is the loosest pile of rubble I have ever been on! Still quite scenic and a fav though. lol.gif

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#19
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#19
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PostWed Jun 01, 2005 8:22 pm 
Mesahchie Mark wrote:
I just realized that the peak behind Dave is not Bonanza, but another in between it and 7FJ.
After looking at my crappy OLD 3x5s, I believe it is Dumbell. I've been up there a lot, but I've only been up 7FJ once. A lot of people don't like it because it is such a scree fest, but the view is far better than Maude, IMO. Your stupendous shot of Maude is proof. up.gif

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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostWed Jun 01, 2005 9:06 pm 
It almost looks like a person standing on top of Mount Maude, did you see anyone going up there? Edit: I was looking at EDDs picture, it has the object that looks like a person on top, not the current one. doh.gif

Ebrace life!
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Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst



Joined: 10 May 2005
Posts: 700 | TRs | Pics
Location: In Wonderland
Mesahchie Mark
A Lerxst
PostWed Jun 01, 2005 9:39 pm 
I think the telemarkers were going to try it, but I didn't actually see them after we left for the climb. If they did go for Maude, I sure hope they got off the mountain before the light show! eek.gif

Cheers, Mesahchie Mark
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dicey
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Joined: 11 May 2004
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Location: giving cornices a wider berth
dicey
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PostThu Jun 02, 2005 12:57 am 
Don wrote:
That's too bad the snow was so soft. But I'm not sure that it still isn't better than no snow at all. 7FJ is the loosest pile of rubble I have ever been on! Still quite scenic and a fav though. lol.gif
I agree 100% 7FJ is a loose pile of rubble indeed!! snow covered is the way to go smile.gif

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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