[ozzy]

Another week another peak! This go round had Bryan and I looking to make our way back up to Sundial in the royal basin area. Sundial had always stuck out since viewing it from the blue tarn in royal basin, it looks so olympic from there! We had attempted it a few years back and were stoked to give it another bid! What seems to be the case as always this season, the weather looked best during midweek. A good reason to burn another vacation day! We made it out to the dungeness river TH at 230am and were on the trail 15mins later. It was nice to not be carrying snowshoes for a change. The hike to royal lake took about 3hrs and the snow was consistent from there on. We took the usual break at the lake. It was 545am and it was a chilly morning, probably 30f. There was a nice dusting of snow on the surrounding peaks making it feel much more like an autumn morning. At the lake we had our first views of Sundial and it looked pretty spicy! There is definitely still a bit of white covering a lot the slopes up there and I hate steep snow! So we drank some whiskey before setting out.

partially frozen royal lk with Sundial above right

After our morning break, at 630am, we dropped down to shelter rock camp. From here there is a waterfall due west that comes down from Sundial's south flank, we crossed the creek and made our way towards the falls. We couldn't see it but we could hear it. Once by the falls a climber's path was located and we followed that up to a basin of sorts right below our peak. The views were starting to become amazing up here! We could see Deception looming large to the south too! Best of all the choss gully we needed to ascend was nice and filled in with snow! There was also a nice view of the upper reaches which looked rather doable! So we headed on up. We entered the gully proper at 5800' and the snow was nice and firm. Quick progress was made up to 6300' at which point we could see the true summit to the west. From here we angled climber's left going up steep snow slopes mixed with rocky ledges. Generally we just aimed for the summit. The views were amazing to say the least and stoke was high with the peak in striking distance! At 6800' the snow steepened even more and was a little softer. Perfect for kicking steps but still warranted caution. Soon we were 50ft under the summit block, we dropped crampons and assessed the last bit.

Sundial from shelter rock

the waterfall

Above the falls

Deception makes it's appearance

The peak

The jumbled summit

Coming up

Gully proper, 5800'

Bryan enters

Upper part of gully

Summit at center in back

Decent views. Mystery back there.

Yewww

Bluebird day

Working the slope

Steepens up through here

Finally getting off the steep snow, close to the top

Stoked

Deception framed

Almost there

We were on the south side of said peak and were able to locate a dirty chimney to shimmy up. Up we went then on to the summit which is kinda airy to get up.(class3-4) We reached the top at 10am to some grandiose scenery!! Wow...what a perspective of Johnson and Clark! Deception to Mystery was a sight to behold as well! Sundial is a pretty badass peak...a little spicier than I thought it would be lol! The summit area is kinda exposed too but we still relaxed for 20mins or so up there! Soon it came to my attention that a sub- summit, 200ft to the north of us, appeared to be of the same height maybe higher!? So the peakbagger mentality inside forced us to go take a look. Well as luck would have it we could not find an easy way up it. The easiest route we could find up would definitely require protection. This peak is a "mountaineer Olympia scramble peak" so I would assume the one we scrambled up was indeed the true summit. If anyone has climbed Sundial it would be nice to receive some feedback, I'm 90% we hit the true one. Anyhow we decided to hang out in the saddle between the two summits...it was the perfect place to take in the views and enjoy some napping.

Summit block

Johnson and Clark

Clark looks dangerous

Bryan in the chimney

Mystery, Deception, Martin

Clark and Adelaide, with that sub-summit right in front

B-Dawg arrives, royal basin down below

Aye ladddd

preparing to climb back down

Working over towards the sub-summit

The summit we climbed with Mystery to the right

couldn't take my eyes off of these two

Extreme Alpine Napping!!

royal lake down there

Oh how the time flew by! Before we knew it the time was 1230pm. We were both not looking forward to the steep snow lol. The top 400ft had to be down climbed facing in. Good times. Steps were still bomber! After that the grade eased up just enough to start plunge stepping our way down and that was fun. Before long we were in the basin at the bottom enjoying our surroundings. God I love the royal basin area, it's always a pleasure finding a reason to get back out there! A few more whiskey breaks were had on the slog out and we eventually made it back to the car at 630pm. It was another great day to be alive and awesome to finally bag this one! Thanks B-Dawg for joining again and cheers to all!! 18miles-ish, 4800ft gain, 16hrs

ready for the steeps

Down the steep sh##

Nice seat

Down the hill

Kinda tricky in some spots

Finally the easy part!

Down, down, down

Back to safer lands

Awesome place

Cheers

Top of waterfall

Bryan with a partial shot of the falls

The lake again

Parting view

[Bluebird]

Nice! I was up there for Clark in suboptimal conditions in may, looks like it's almost time, thanks for the pics!

[geyer]

Hell of an adventure Ozzy! That view of royal basin alone would be worth it for me

[yukon222]

Super set of pics! Quite the trip. A+

[IanB]

Great photos! Great report!

[bivouacjack]

As always, a fun read and a big inspiration!

[silence]

Great climb and spectacular scenery ... your trail report and photos are riveting! Love that area and makes me want to get back.