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Forum Index -> Trip Reports -> Whitehorse 6.3.6
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 970 | TRs | Pics
Location: In the 80's dude!
Post Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:26 pm    Whitehorse 6.3.6
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Whitehorse Mountain 6840'

Route- WhiteHorse Glacier

Stevens pass CAG- page 116

Party- Jeff R, Paul K, Julian S, Sergio V, Martin S, Ed M, Mark S

Driving to Darrington we could plainly see our objective and all the work that awaited us--
We turned Right at the Darrington shell station and continued along passing some homes and then the Niederprum Trail head.  Brush and deep mud puddles weighed on the plan to stop here and park alongside the road at 800'. We would have to walk the road at the start or the end of the trip anyway so splitting the difference seemed appropriate.

We shouldered our packs and continued to the end of the road which comes to a creek and a mine shaft opening. The way first crossed the creek on a slippery log,
then another branch of the Creek by rock hopping. It seemed everyone picked a different way that they seemed fit. After the creek crossings we started swimming through the brush, here we encountered a little bit of everything ranging from Slide Alder to Devils club, Wild Rose, Salmonberry, Ferns,moss and everything in between. Bits of a path here and there was always a welcome reward.

Occasionally we had some breaks from the jungle and first went up a mossy talus patch.

Then we encountered some wet rocks to scramble up.
We hugged the Left side of the Gulch ascending below the main cliffs until we crossed a dirt slope followed by our first snow patch. Right after that we brush bashed some more, dropped a little bit down Slide Alder and onto a bigger snow slope. We had all survived the brush and now had a scenic snow slog ahead of us that didn't need crampons or snowshoes. This helped us gain a lot of elevation passing many creeks and waterfalls.
Higher up we had some rock slabs that had to be ascended or bypassed. 
There were some  gaps in the snow that had to be negotiated. I am not sure if you could call them crevasses.
A steep section brought us to the glacier proper and we could now see the summit rocks quite clearly and a big problem. A snow slab had just recently peeled off from the summit wall leaving a moat and now a rock climb to top off. Just a week or two ago the snow went all the way to the summit. Just a little too late for a easy finish. After all of us hummed and hawed around, Paul lead the rock section and everyone soon followed.
There was a sling ladder that had been fixed earlier that we all used for the ascent. When we first saw it we were upset that it was there, this quickly turned to thanks and praises.

At last we were all on top celebrating the climb and checking out the views and signing the register. There was a low cloud ceiling concealing a lot of peaks but we still had plenty to look at.
A 75' rappel 
delivered us to the good side of the moat and a couple sitting glissades brought us to High pass. Another sitting glissade and side hill traverse followed by  some uphill trudging brought us to Lone Tree pass. Here we dropped packs and decided to cap our day with a climb up to Lone Tree Peak( 5249 ft/409'P) also known as Whitehorse Ridge. The views were pretty darn good from there, especially of where we just came from. Another sitting glissade and traverse brought us to the Niederprum trail which seemed to go downhill forever. Down low the trail was nicely graded and maintained. About 12+ hours for the climb, summit stay and extra peak. Around a 7000' gain for the day. This peak was a lot of fun and thrashing through the brush and trees was worth every bit for this achievement.

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Talk to your cat about catnip!
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Andrew
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Joined: 24 Oct 2003
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Post Mon Jun 05, 2006 11:45 pm   
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Great pictures, looks like a heckuva climb.
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Dayhike Mike
Bad MFKer



Joined: 02 Mar 2003
Posts: 10997 | TRs | Pics
Location: Going to Tukwila
Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:37 am   
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Very very nice, guys... Looks like a fun trip!

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"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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Trevor
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Joined: 31 Jan 2004
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Location: Edmonds, WA
Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 12:46 am   
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The snow wall in the image titled " horse leg" must have been demanded quite a bit of focus and vigor. It seems that there are very few that accept whitehorse's challenges, it is generally a mountain that  just collects vehicle views on route to a different stretch of the cascades.

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Trevor Anderson Photography
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Edd
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 7:30 am   
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Great trip, I felt pretty fortunate to go along. I was very excited but somewhat anxious. not knowing just what to expect as far as conditions. I had heard they change quite a bit later in the season. After starting out though and meeting everyone in the group I felt comfortable realizing the amount of experience between them and that it could be, and was a great learning experience for me.

I usually take about four times as many pics, but this time it was more about paying attention, and the experience. I still can't seem to help it though so here are some pics.

Thanks Jeff

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Guiran
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Joined: 03 Mar 2004
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:47 am   
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Awesome trip and great pictures.  I've done the bottom of the route with more snow on the ground and it's probably nicer without so much brush.  I do remember the mossy talus from our attempt.
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ActionBetty
Im a dirty hippie!



Joined: 06 Jul 2003
Posts: 4803 | TRs | Pics
Location: kennewick, wa
Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 8:57 am   
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Rock on!  Looks like it was a grueling trip to get to the top  cool.gif
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Don
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 9:35 am   
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Excellent pics and TR - Edd, I love the shot of Jeff and Darrington!

Quote:
It seems that there are very few that accept whitehorse's challenges, it is generally a mountain that  just collects vehicle views on route to a different stretch of the cascades.

Actually, Whitehorse is a pretty popular climb, though more popular in early season (April - May).  The first couple of times I climbed it, we had minimal climbing (a couple of moves) on the summit block.  Last time we simply walked the snow up.  From the pics, it looks like there was a lot more summit block to negotiate - good job guys.

Jeff - I didn't read any comments about the schrund.  Was it open yet?


Don
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Justus S.
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Joined: 17 Nov 2004
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:25 am   
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Way to get it done there guys.  up.gif  up.gif
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Randy
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Joined: 18 Dec 2001
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:27 am   
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up.gif  Great pictures from everyone.

It appears important to note that the snow on the summit block peels off instead of melting away.  wink.gif
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Tazz
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 10:47 am   
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up.gif  nice! so are you ready to lead me up some pitches yet?   hihi.gif

nice shots EDD
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Gil
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:30 am   
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Wow. Great trip report. Nice climb.
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Tom
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Joined: 15 Dec 2001
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Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 11:41 am   
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Great report!  I printed out the TR and pics to savor and keep me awake during a 2+ hour meeting this morning. hockeygrin.gif
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dicey
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Joined: 11 May 2004
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Location: giving cornices a wider berth
Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:13 pm   
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Good job!
Saturday was the day to get it up.gif
Sunday sucked down.gif

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I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages.
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 970 | TRs | Pics
Location: In the 80's dude!
Post Tue Jun 06, 2006 4:52 pm   
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Don wrote:


Actually, Whitehorse is a pretty popular climb, though more popular in early season (April - May).  The first couple of times I climbed it, we had minimal climbing (a couple of moves) on the summit block.  Last time we simply walked the snow up.  From the pics, it looks like there was a lot more summit block to negotiate - good job guys.

Jeff - I didn't read any comments about the schrund.  Was it open yet?


Don

Not totaly open yet, real soon though. I have heard that late season you can't even touch the summit rocks because the schrund is so wide. We would have liked to do it earlier,(mid-May) but getting everyone together that wanted to climb it was the deciding factor. A couple weeks ago when Martin and myself did Ruby we saw the snow ramp leading all the way up to the summit and that was the time to go.  Saturday morning everyone was paying attention to the bottom of the gulch and nobody noticed the gap in the summit snow until we were right below it..

In this picture you can see the remnants of our snow slab that peeled away or melted--

Thanks for the comments everyone!

--------------
Talk to your cat about catnip!
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